Rack travel limiters (stops)
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Rack travel limiters (stops)
I'm trying to fit 315 front tires on an 11" wheel. It mostly works except that the tire rubs on the brake cooling tubes at close to full lock.
On other projects, I've used split collars on the rack itself to limit travel, but the OEM rack makes that difficult...
Here's where I am at the moment: the split collar is too big in diameter, but worse is the bolt heads are too.
Has anybody figured out something like this?
thanks!
Close, but no joy.
On other projects, I've used split collars on the rack itself to limit travel, but the OEM rack makes that difficult...
Here's where I am at the moment: the split collar is too big in diameter, but worse is the bolt heads are too.
Has anybody figured out something like this?
thanks!
Close, but no joy.
#2
Melting Slicks
I figured it out with my C5. Takes some time with a file. Pull back that white sleeve you have in the picture. Put the split collar inside the white sleeve. No need for bolts now. Silicone it in there. You can't get the inside diameter and outside diameter that works. So get the right outside diameter and file, drill away the inside hole to fit the rack.
Steve
Steve
#4
Some standard Ford rack clips they use in Mustangs snapped on mine perfectly. I did the same to a past Mustang.
They come in a pack so you can pretty much lock that thing up as much as you want.
They come in a pack so you can pretty much lock that thing up as much as you want.
#5
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I just unscrewed the tie rod at the rack and machined in solid sleeves that went over the rack and then re-installed the tie rod....
Don't have to screw with any clip on things and you know it isn't going to get caught up or hung up on something inside the race and possibly lock the steering in place.
Don't have to screw with any clip on things and you know it isn't going to get caught up or hung up on something inside the race and possibly lock the steering in place.
#6
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
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There are two problems the rest of us mortals have with the word machined. Not a lot of us have machine tools just laying around waiting for us to whip off a couple of custom pieces. Then of course you also need to know how to use the machine tool.
Bil
Bil
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Luckily, I can make such sleeves...
Anthony,
Two questions: 1. What's involved with removing the rack end? Just unscrew, then screw it back on? Torque setting? Loctite? (sorry, that's just one question, lol).
2. Do you use a set screw or the like to keep the sleeve from sliding back and forth on the rack?
thanks!
Anthony,
Two questions: 1. What's involved with removing the rack end? Just unscrew, then screw it back on? Torque setting? Loctite? (sorry, that's just one question, lol).
2. Do you use a set screw or the like to keep the sleeve from sliding back and forth on the rack?
thanks!
#8
When I raced mustangs I never had an issue with the snap on pieces that ford sells. They worked well and were very easy to install. Nice thing was they came in different thicknesses for fine tuning of limit.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the help... I just needed a bit of guidance. I have the Ford snap-on pieces coming for fine tuning, but I think this will work fine:
3/4" long spacer with two set screws.
And the original sleeve snaps back into place over it.
3/4" long spacer with two set screws.
And the original sleeve snaps back into place over it.
#10
Drifting
Part numbers for the ford pieces?
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
My rack was about .935 on the passenger side, and .985 on the driver's side.
The diameter needed to slide into the rack housing is about 2.690.
The diameter needed to slide into the rack housing is about 2.690.
#14
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Luckily, I can make such sleeves...
Anthony,
Two questions: 1. What's involved with removing the rack end? Just unscrew, then screw it back on? Torque setting? Loctite? (sorry, that's just one question, lol).
2. Do you use a set screw or the like to keep the sleeve from sliding back and forth on the rack?
thanks!
Anthony,
Two questions: 1. What's involved with removing the rack end? Just unscrew, then screw it back on? Torque setting? Loctite? (sorry, that's just one question, lol).
2. Do you use a set screw or the like to keep the sleeve from sliding back and forth on the rack?
thanks!
We never put set screws on them..but kept the diameter so that they could freely slide on the rack without issue....haven't ran into an issue doing it that way.
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks all. With .760 sleeves on each side, I've got about 2.25 turns lock to lock, and a test drive showed no ill effects, and no tire rub with street driving.
I can still make U-turns, drive in parking lots, get in and out of my driveway, and negotiate the McDonald's drive-thru.
I think my parallel parking might be compromised a bit is all. The last time I parallel-parked the car was... never. All is good!
I can still make U-turns, drive in parking lots, get in and out of my driveway, and negotiate the McDonald's drive-thru.
I think my parallel parking might be compromised a bit is all. The last time I parallel-parked the car was... never. All is good!