TKOGTO

Struggled with pressing the pistons back into the caliper after removing track pads with very little left to them. I couldn't get anything I have to get to the pistons. Tried channel locks and several different size c-clamps, nothing fit around the caliper that could also get to the pistons. I put the old pads back in and tried to squeeze them by hand but there was not enough room to get much of a grip. I could get a little leverage on the outboard pistons using my fingers but the inboard pistons were a challenge.

What do you guys use?

MR Turco

ive heard this works great, also make sure you pop the reservoir cap.

troyguitar

I don't have W6A's but in general: Open the bleeder and the pistons should retract easily. I've used a big screwdriver or pry bar between the rotor and pad to push them back too.

Bill Dearborn

Make sure the piston is going in straight Vs cocked. If it is cocked to one side it will jam against the cylinder wall and can be quite tough to depress.

I have a tool purchased off from eBay that was designed for Mercedes brakes and it has worked well with several different types of brake calipers. Here is a link to a similar tool: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Disc-Brake-Pad-Spreader-Tool-Mercedes-VW-BMW-Ford-Honda-Toyota-Nissan-Audi-Volvo-/350699517052?hash=item51a751f47c&item=350699517052&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr
Bill

Werks

It might sound funny but I use about a 12" long piece of wooden base board trim, the angled type that starts off thick at the bottom and then narrows at the top and is 3-4" tall. I just slide it in between the caliper put one end on the piston and then use it as a lever to compress the piston. As it's wood I never have to worry about scratching or damaging anything doing it that way. You can also slide it between your pads and lever them open again without having to worry about gouging the pad surface.

mikeCsix

I use a bar clamp, typically used for wood working but the angles of the clamps work out well on OEM calipers, the can be found at Lowe's Hardware and come in assorted lengths:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

HTH.

UstaB-GS549

The handle on my Craftsman ratchet is kind oval shaped. I stick it between the rotor and pistons and twist it. The wide side of the handle is almost exactly the distance between the rotor face and the inside surface of the caliper. I have the AP T1 calipers which use the same pad.

brkntrxn

Before I take out the old pads, I use two screwdrivers between the rotor and pad to push the pistons back. Simple and easy.

0Todd TCE

As Bill mentioned; please be careful with the pistons relative to the housing. On any multi piston caliper they need to be square to the bores for easy retraction. The farther out they are...the more dicey it can be to push them back in. If necessary work one at a time a bit to be certain they are moving without binding BEFORE you push them back with the pad.

Also opening up the bleeder often makes things easier, however of course that will require a re bleed. And lastly do one pad at a time to prevent the other pair from popping out...

TKOGTO

Thanks gents.

TmillerC5

I have started using spacers so the pistons don't get as far out. That really helps prevent the issue you are having. Todd at TCE has them in a couple different thicknesses. I got both and it helps.
Tim

0Todd TCE

Thanks, yes I do. They are at the bottom of the BRAKE PAD page.