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I'm looking for info/company that can safely and effectively repair my bleeder port on one of my front calipers. I've heard about the tapping kits to go up to a 7/16ths with a new bleeder valve. Can that be trusted? Stock C6Z06 Calipers (2008).
I noticed today during a DE event that one bleeder was leaking, went to check and ensure it was snug and it wouldn't tighten and just spun . Fortunately, I was able to get it out and take the caliper off.
A HUGE and MASSIVE thanks to Vengeance Racing for making some calls and finding a loaner caliper for me to use within about 15 minutes so I could continue running this weekend!!!!
Not difficult to make that repair yourself. Go to auto parts store and find the next biggest bleeder screw. Purchase the corresponding size bottoming tap and chase the new threads yourself. If the bleeder seat is not usable, just throw old caliper away and purchase a new one !
Really only two choices, toss the caliper or use a bleeder repair kit that includes an oversized insert and bleeder screw. The bottom taper necessary to seal the bleeder is not something you are going to be able to duplicate or save should you attempt to drill and tap for an oversized bleeder.
Here is the kit you need. Might consider having a machine shop do the work if you don't have a drill press and a fixture to hold the caliper. http://tinyurl.com/kn8zsvq
Sometimes there is just a piece of gunk in the seat. You may want to remove the bleeder and shine a flashlight to look for metal shavings or debris. If something is found, you can use a pick or small needle nose pliers to grab it. This is a bit of a mess because fluid will be gravity draining the whole time, but I've fixed 2 leaky caliper bleed screws in the past couple months with this method. It's cheap and easy!
Sometimes there is just a piece of gunk in the seat. You may want to remove the bleeder and shine a flashlight to look for metal shavings or debris. If something is found, you can use a pick or small needle nose pliers to grab it. This is a bit of a mess because fluid will be gravity draining the whole time, but I've fixed 2 leaky caliper bleed screws in the past couple months with this method. It's cheap and easy!
The dripping can be stopped using extra brake fluid cap with a vacuum port added and then use a MityVac to apply just enough vacuum to at the air above the brake fluid until the dripping stops.
I've ordered the repair kit mentioned above, so hopefully the bleeder seat is okay and all is well.
The bleeder repair kit I referenced includes an insert with a new seat. So...all you need to do is drill out the existing bleeder threads to the correct drill size and then use a pipe tap to cut threads for the insert. The old seat/threads don't matter.
Not necessarily pretty but 100% functional. Good luck!
I see now. I was wondering why you mentioned a drill press, etc. I was thinking the kit was all I needed :-).
Thanks!
I'm sure it can be done without a drill press, however if the hole is not drilled on center and dimensionally accurate, there will be problems. A drill press just makes is easier to do a good job.
Find a local machine shop and bring them the caliper and the kit. Any shop that can do valve jobs or minor machine work should be able to handle it.
That is how some of the Wilwood Calipers are made. You get an insert in the caliper and the bleeder screw goes into the insert. If you screw up the bleeder you just replace the insert and the bleeder. I accidentally broke off a bleeder at the track and was still able to run the car. If I needed to bleed I just loosened the insert let fluid run down the caliper and cleaned up the mess after the air was out. Now I try and keep a couple of spares available.
Good to know. Thanks everyone. My caliper is currently at a machine shop. I'm tempted to get inserts for all of the them...is there such a thing that will screw into the factory ports without drilling?
Good to know. Thanks everyone. My caliper is currently at a machine shop. I'm tempted to get inserts for all of the them...is there such a thing that will screw into the factory ports without drilling?
The insert repair should not be done as a PM action and no, there is not a "no-drill" option.
Learn to use a short 10 mm box wrench (get a 6 point) to open the bleeder and use very little force to close it, try two fingers instead of your hand to tighten the wrench. Remember you are seating a steel bleeder screw against the taper in an aluminum caliper. Buy a set of new GM bleeder screws and swap them out with your old ones and call it good
Bleeder screws are probably the most over tightened fastener on a street/track car. The manual calls for 106 lbs in which is around 8 lbs ft. I've had dedicated track cars that had 10 year old original bleeder screws that looked like they were never cracked
The insert repair should not be done as a PM action and no, there is not a "no-drill" option.
Learn to use a short 10 mm box wrench (get a 6 point) to open the bleeder and use very little force to close it, try two fingers instead of your hand to tighten the wrench. Remember you are seating a steel bleeder screw against the taper in an aluminum caliper. Buy a set of new GM bleeder screws and swap them out with your old ones and call it good
Bleeder screws are probably the most over tightened fastener on a street/track car. The manual calls for 106 lbs in which is around 8 lbs ft. I've had dedicated track cars that had 10 year old original bleeder screws that looked like they were never cracked
I could agree with that...I know for me personally, I'm always worried about them "leaking". Thanks for the tips!
My brother ran the wrong bleeder screws into my C5 calipers a couple years ago and really boogered the threads. I found a helicoil kit on ebay and fixed them right up. For a track car where bleeding is frequent, inserts or helicoils aren't a bad idea to ensure that the threads don't come out when you're under pressure with no time or ability to repair them.
That is how some of the Wilwood Calipers are made. You get an insert in the caliper and the bleeder screw goes into the insert. If you screw up the bleeder you just replace the insert and the bleeder. I accidentally broke off a bleeder at the track and was still able to run the car. If I needed to bleed I just loosened the insert let fluid run down the caliper and cleaned up the mess after the air was out. Now I try and keep a couple of spares available.
Bill
Here are some Wilwood inserts made to fit the stock thread size, cool! I didn't know such a thing existed for stock calipers until finding this thread, I'll be installing a set before the next race....
Here are some Wilwood inserts made to fit the stock thread size, cool! I didn't know such a thing existed for stock calipers until finding this thread, I'll be installing a set before the next race....
These fittings can be had in both M10-1.0 for metric threads but will need to properly seat into the caliper to work. They may or may not work if you have a damaged seat in the caliper now, they still need to seat inside as a stock bleeder will.
An alternate to that is the 1/8npt fittings used on other calipers. This will require you tap the damaged hole to 1/8 pipe thread. This is not overly difficult but you'll want to keep the chips from falling inside of course. Stuff it full of something first. And they have pre applied sealant on them too.
And if you over-tightened the 10 mm, be very careful of these as the bleeders much smaller (1/4" on my Wilwoods). I am very gentle really I just tap the wrench to make sure it's tight and they would still look new if it weren't for all the brake dust they are caked with.
09-27-2014, 09:14 PM
Caliper Bleeder Repair?
. Fortunately, I was able to get it out and take the caliper off. 
