One Lap of America brake pad help.
11-05-2014, 07:03 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
One Lap of America brake pad help.
I and another forum member are signed up for the 2015 OLOA.
I am trying to figure out a good brake pad compound the event.
We will see 4 concurrent laps at tracks and then stop. So they don't have to hold up for 20 min sessions. And then they need to work for 3200 miles of street use.
I was thinking a PFC 99 or 01 compound all around. But, curious what someone else might suggest.
AND FWIW, we do not plan on winning. We just wanna finish. Dead last is ok with us as long as we finish.
Thanks!
I am trying to figure out a good brake pad compound the event.
We will see 4 concurrent laps at tracks and then stop. So they don't have to hold up for 20 min sessions. And then they need to work for 3200 miles of street use.
I was thinking a PFC 99 or 01 compound all around. But, curious what someone else might suggest.
AND FWIW, we do not plan on winning. We just wanna finish. Dead last is ok with us as long as we finish.
Thanks!
11-05-2014, 08:37 PM
#2
Former Vendor
I and another forum member are signed up for the 2015 OLOA.
I am trying to figure out a good brake pad compound the event.
We will see 4 concurrent laps at tracks and then stop. So they don't have to hold up for 20 min sessions. And then they need to work for 3200 miles of street use.
I was thinking a PFC 99 or 01 compound all around. But, curious what someone else might suggest.
AND FWIW, we do not plan on winning. We just wanna finish. Dead last is ok with us as long as we finish.
Thanks!
I am trying to figure out a good brake pad compound the event.
We will see 4 concurrent laps at tracks and then stop. So they don't have to hold up for 20 min sessions. And then they need to work for 3200 miles of street use.
I was thinking a PFC 99 or 01 compound all around. But, curious what someone else might suggest.
AND FWIW, we do not plan on winning. We just wanna finish. Dead last is ok with us as long as we finish.
Thanks!
Just an FYI, PFC has phased out the 01 with the 11 compound for their main sprint/medium distance compound. I had a chance to try a set on my car last weekend at Laguna Seca and was impressed. They are a good match for many setups using high end EHP street tires (BFG Rival, Dunlop ZII, Bridgestone RE-11 etc.) or some entry level R-Comps (NT01, RA1, R888 etc.)
Feel free to send me a PM as well.
-Matt M.
11-05-2014, 11:25 PM
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
If I'm not mistaken you'll need to be on a minimum 200UTQG street tire but can you tell me a little bit about the rest of the car and brake setup to make some recommendations.
Just an FYI, PFC has phased out the 01 with the 11 compound for their main sprint/medium distance compound. I had a chance to try a set on my car last weekend at Laguna Seca and was impressed. They are a good match for many setups using high end EHP street tires (BFG Rival, Dunlop ZII, Bridgestone RE-11 etc.) or some entry level R-Comps (NT01, RA1, R888 etc.)
Feel free to send me a PM as well.
-Matt M.
Just an FYI, PFC has phased out the 01 with the 11 compound for their main sprint/medium distance compound. I had a chance to try a set on my car last weekend at Laguna Seca and was impressed. They are a good match for many setups using high end EHP street tires (BFG Rival, Dunlop ZII, Bridgestone RE-11 etc.) or some entry level R-Comps (NT01, RA1, R888 etc.)
Feel free to send me a PM as well.
-Matt M.
The car is a 99 FRC with bilstein sport shocks, brake cooling ducts, stock capliers, headers.
Both driver's have 20+ trackdays in corvette's
I have been running PFC 99 front and PFC Z rated rear. I planned on going to the ST-43 brakes F/R for my HPDE weekends next year, but thought the 43's might be a poor choice for the 3200+ street miles and only doing the 4 laps of track driving.
We are trying to do this as cheap as one can while not buying stuff that can't be used on the street or during HPDE's later.
11-06-2014, 09:36 AM
#4
Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Cleveland OH
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
Take a look at the Carbotech pads. I would use the XP10 front and XP8 rear. They will be fine on the street and work great on the track with the DW tire. You could even go XP12 front and XP10 rear but might be overkill for the tires.
Carbotech™ XP8™
A high torque brake compound with a wide operating temperature range of 200°F-1250°F+ (93°C to 676°C+). Carbotech™ XP8™ is the first of our racing compounds. Good initial bite at race temperatures, high coefficient of friction, excellent modulation and release characteristics. Extremely high fade resistance and very rotor friendly. Perfect for track day use with any tire and can still be driven safely to and from the track. Carbotech™ does NOT recommended XP8™ as a daily driven street pad due to elevated levels of dust and noise. Carbotech™ XP8™ is a great compound on the front & rear of most open wheel and sports racers.
Carbotech™ XP10™
When Carbotech™ unleashed the XP10™ to the general public it immediately gathered multiple regional, divisional, and national championships. The XP10™ has a very strong initial bite with a coefficient of friction and rotor friendliness unmatched in the industry. Fade resistance is in excess of 1475°F (801°C). XP10™ still maintains the highly praised release, excellent modulation and rotor friendliness that have made all Carbotech™ compounds so successful. Carbotech™ XP10™ is not recommended as a daily-driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.
Carbotech™ XP12™
Another highly successful XP™ series compound with an excellent initial bite, torque and fade resistance over and above the XP10™ compound. XP12™ has temperature range of 250°F to 1850°F+ (121°C to 1010°C+). The XP12™ has that excellent Carbotech™ release and modulation that has made all other Carbotech™ compounds so successful. The XP12™ is more rotor aggressive than XP10™, but compared to the competition the XP12™ is still very rotor friendly. XP12™ is NOT recommended for use as a daily driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.
Carbotech™ XP8™
A high torque brake compound with a wide operating temperature range of 200°F-1250°F+ (93°C to 676°C+). Carbotech™ XP8™ is the first of our racing compounds. Good initial bite at race temperatures, high coefficient of friction, excellent modulation and release characteristics. Extremely high fade resistance and very rotor friendly. Perfect for track day use with any tire and can still be driven safely to and from the track. Carbotech™ does NOT recommended XP8™ as a daily driven street pad due to elevated levels of dust and noise. Carbotech™ XP8™ is a great compound on the front & rear of most open wheel and sports racers.
Carbotech™ XP10™
When Carbotech™ unleashed the XP10™ to the general public it immediately gathered multiple regional, divisional, and national championships. The XP10™ has a very strong initial bite with a coefficient of friction and rotor friendliness unmatched in the industry. Fade resistance is in excess of 1475°F (801°C). XP10™ still maintains the highly praised release, excellent modulation and rotor friendliness that have made all Carbotech™ compounds so successful. Carbotech™ XP10™ is not recommended as a daily-driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.
Carbotech™ XP12™
Another highly successful XP™ series compound with an excellent initial bite, torque and fade resistance over and above the XP10™ compound. XP12™ has temperature range of 250°F to 1850°F+ (121°C to 1010°C+). The XP12™ has that excellent Carbotech™ release and modulation that has made all other Carbotech™ compounds so successful. The XP12™ is more rotor aggressive than XP10™, but compared to the competition the XP12™ is still very rotor friendly. XP12™ is NOT recommended for use as a daily driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.
__________________
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
11-06-2014, 10:15 AM
#5
Racer
Yeah, it will be a high performance summer tire. The rules on tires for 2015 are not out yet. But, we are looking at the Conti DW's for tires.
The car is a 99 FRC with bilstein sport shocks, brake cooling ducts, stock capliers, headers.
Both driver's have 20+ trackdays in corvette's
I have been running PFC 99 front and PFC Z rated rear. I planned on going to the ST-43 brakes F/R for my HPDE weekends next year, but thought the 43's might be a poor choice for the 3200+ street miles and only doing the 4 laps of track driving.
We are trying to do this as cheap as one can while not buying stuff that can't be used on the street or during HPDE's later.
The car is a 99 FRC with bilstein sport shocks, brake cooling ducts, stock capliers, headers.
Both driver's have 20+ trackdays in corvette's
I have been running PFC 99 front and PFC Z rated rear. I planned on going to the ST-43 brakes F/R for my HPDE weekends next year, but thought the 43's might be a poor choice for the 3200+ street miles and only doing the 4 laps of track driving.
We are trying to do this as cheap as one can while not buying stuff that can't be used on the street or during HPDE's later.
Any particular reason you're not using something stickier like the RS3?
11-06-2014, 01:20 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
First, let me say I'm jealous. I ran OLOA in 2007 in my 96 LT4 and it was a blast. Certainly challenging and exhausting, but what an experience! I think you're goal to just finish without worrying about where you place in your class is the right frame of mind. I can't remember how many really fast cars we lost during the week, but the herd thinned noticeably and at the end of the week, you'll just be glad you made it back to South Bend in one piece and without wanting to kill your co-driver.
Looks like a pretty good track lineup for next year with the exception of Pueblo. Unless they've resurfaced the track since I was there, it was pretty crappy - especially where the road course transitions onto the drag strip. The paddock sucked too. Hallet is a lot of fun. It was a surprise favorite from my run even though I boiled the brake fluid and went off-track there at about 90 mph during the afternoon session. Fortunately it was the one area of the track with a big runoff so I only had to worry about 200 lbs of mud to clean out of just about every crack and crevice on the car. Changed out fluid and got right back on the road. Missed the morning session at O'Reilly because of the delay, but still finished with no damage.
For pads I ran Hawk HP Plus (I was running C5 brakes on my C4, which was a great upgrade). They made it through the week with plenty to spare, but they would definitely show some fade by the 3rd timed lap. I run XP10s and XP8s on my C6 Grand Sport and they are a very good pad. Good balance of track capability while being fairly easily to modulate and not too loud on the street. I would definitely pick these over the Hawks.
As for tire be aware you're probably going to have virtually nothing left when you finish. I ran the then-new version of Firestone Wide Ovals that had a pretty good wear rating and they were toast by the end of the week. Some of the higher HP cars were dangerously close to being completely bald by the 6th or 7th day. I know one team was finally allowed to change out one or two tires because Brock Jr. deemed them unsafe. I would definitely default to the summer performance tire with the best tread wear rating.
Wow - great memories.
Looks like a pretty good track lineup for next year with the exception of Pueblo. Unless they've resurfaced the track since I was there, it was pretty crappy - especially where the road course transitions onto the drag strip. The paddock sucked too. Hallet is a lot of fun. It was a surprise favorite from my run even though I boiled the brake fluid and went off-track there at about 90 mph during the afternoon session. Fortunately it was the one area of the track with a big runoff so I only had to worry about 200 lbs of mud to clean out of just about every crack and crevice on the car. Changed out fluid and got right back on the road. Missed the morning session at O'Reilly because of the delay, but still finished with no damage.
For pads I ran Hawk HP Plus (I was running C5 brakes on my C4, which was a great upgrade). They made it through the week with plenty to spare, but they would definitely show some fade by the 3rd timed lap. I run XP10s and XP8s on my C6 Grand Sport and they are a very good pad. Good balance of track capability while being fairly easily to modulate and not too loud on the street. I would definitely pick these over the Hawks.
As for tire be aware you're probably going to have virtually nothing left when you finish. I ran the then-new version of Firestone Wide Ovals that had a pretty good wear rating and they were toast by the end of the week. Some of the higher HP cars were dangerously close to being completely bald by the 6th or 7th day. I know one team was finally allowed to change out one or two tires because Brock Jr. deemed them unsafe. I would definitely default to the summer performance tire with the best tread wear rating.
Wow - great memories.
Last edited by CrvtBB; 11-06-2014 at 01:23 PM.
11-06-2014, 05:35 PM
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
#2 Concern on tires is WET. We are doing 40ish total laps over 7 days.... we are doing 3200 miles driving on public roads... at NIGHT. The last thing I wanna worry about in BFE Nebraska at 11pm at night in the rain is hydroplaning.
Again, this is 2 guys trying to do something on the bucket list and try and enjoy it and have as much fun as possible. Neither of us have been to ANY of these tracks. So, we are honest and realistic about how slow we are going to be. No reason to buy a tire that we won't be pushing to the absolute limit.
First, let me say I'm jealous. I ran OLOA in 2007 in my 96 LT4 and it was a blast. Certainly challenging and exhausting, but what an experience! I think you're goal to just finish without worrying about where you place in your class is the right frame of mind. I can't remember how many really fast cars we lost during the week, but the herd thinned noticeably and at the end of the week, you'll just be glad you made it back to South Bend in one piece and without wanting to kill your co-driver.
Looks like a pretty good track lineup for next year with the exception of Pueblo. Unless they've resurfaced the track since I was there, it was pretty crappy - especially where the road course transitions onto the drag strip. The paddock sucked too. Hallet is a lot of fun. It was a surprise favorite from my run even though I boiled the brake fluid and went off-track there at about 90 mph during the afternoon session. Fortunately it was the one area of the track with a big runoff so I only had to worry about 200 lbs of mud to clean out of just about every crack and crevice on the car. Changed out fluid and got right back on the road. Missed the morning session at O'Reilly because of the delay, but still finished with no damage.
For pads I ran Hawk HP Plus (I was running C5 brakes on my C4, which was a great upgrade). They made it through the week with plenty to spare, but they would definitely show some fade by the 3rd timed lap. I run XP10s and XP8s on my C6 Grand Sport and they are a very good pad. Good balance of track capability while being fairly easily to modulate and not too loud on the street. I would definitely pick these over the Hawks.
As for tire be aware you're probably going to have virtually nothing left when you finish. I ran the then-new version of Firestone Wide Ovals that had a pretty good wear rating and they were toast by the end of the week. Some of the higher HP cars were dangerously close to being completely bald by the 6th or 7th day. I know one team was finally allowed to change out one or two tires because Brock Jr. deemed them unsafe. I would definitely default to the summer performance tire with the best tread wear rating.
Wow - great memories.
Looks like a pretty good track lineup for next year with the exception of Pueblo. Unless they've resurfaced the track since I was there, it was pretty crappy - especially where the road course transitions onto the drag strip. The paddock sucked too. Hallet is a lot of fun. It was a surprise favorite from my run even though I boiled the brake fluid and went off-track there at about 90 mph during the afternoon session. Fortunately it was the one area of the track with a big runoff so I only had to worry about 200 lbs of mud to clean out of just about every crack and crevice on the car. Changed out fluid and got right back on the road. Missed the morning session at O'Reilly because of the delay, but still finished with no damage.
For pads I ran Hawk HP Plus (I was running C5 brakes on my C4, which was a great upgrade). They made it through the week with plenty to spare, but they would definitely show some fade by the 3rd timed lap. I run XP10s and XP8s on my C6 Grand Sport and they are a very good pad. Good balance of track capability while being fairly easily to modulate and not too loud on the street. I would definitely pick these over the Hawks.
As for tire be aware you're probably going to have virtually nothing left when you finish. I ran the then-new version of Firestone Wide Ovals that had a pretty good wear rating and they were toast by the end of the week. Some of the higher HP cars were dangerously close to being completely bald by the 6th or 7th day. I know one team was finally allowed to change out one or two tires because Brock Jr. deemed them unsafe. I would definitely default to the summer performance tire with the best tread wear rating.
Wow - great memories.
Thanks for all the info! Yeah, Brock Jr. mentioned hating my co-driver by tues. and then loving him thurs. when all I wanna do is sleep! LOL
Yeah I was picking a tire that had 300+. The conti's are 340. And yeah, I am hoping to get some use out of the tires the rest of the year if possible!
I will look at the XP's.. since you are #2 voter.
And if you have any advice, suggestions, or anything about OLOA, please share! You can pm me if ya like!
Kirk
11-06-2014, 11:33 PM
#9
Team Owner
Take an extra set of pads with you, it can't hurt. Though, you won't burn through one set of pads.
Horsepower makes heat. The faster you go, the more brake you will need. Even then, the 1000+HP GT-R's aren't changing pads.
Have you done time trials before?
On tire selection, the Michelin's are an all around super performance tire. You will thank me if you have to run any of the events in the rain. The Conti's are great, though, you really get what you pay for, the Michelins are the definition of extreme performance.
You can run "race" camber for alignment. Either way the tires will be all but finished after 3500+ miles.
The key is to finish and in finishing, that means no DNF's for any event. So, think ahead carefully. The idea is not to necessarily win the lowest ET everywhere. Keep the car out of the grass and do not dump or abuse the clutch. Find the track for the next day visually the night before, always. And, lastly, WAZE is your friend.
Horsepower makes heat. The faster you go, the more brake you will need. Even then, the 1000+HP GT-R's aren't changing pads.
Have you done time trials before?
On tire selection, the Michelin's are an all around super performance tire. You will thank me if you have to run any of the events in the rain. The Conti's are great, though, you really get what you pay for, the Michelins are the definition of extreme performance.
You can run "race" camber for alignment. Either way the tires will be all but finished after 3500+ miles.
The key is to finish and in finishing, that means no DNF's for any event. So, think ahead carefully. The idea is not to necessarily win the lowest ET everywhere. Keep the car out of the grass and do not dump or abuse the clutch. Find the track for the next day visually the night before, always. And, lastly, WAZE is your friend.
11-07-2014, 01:19 AM
#10
Drifting
Stoptech street performance pads are cheaper than cheap and should last a few laps before fading, I run them as my street/autox pads with Bridgestone RE-11 tires. The pads are so cheap you could buy 2 sets to have a backup set for less than the cost of many other options.
Carbotech pads are better than the stoptechs but you're talking WAY more money. Stoptech street performance is $57 front and $35 rear on rock auto's site right now. You can't beat them for the price.
FWIW the RE-11's are also really good tires for 200+ tw and I really like them in the rain on my C5Z. I have something like 5k street miles and a few autox days on them with almost no treadwear so far, I think they're down 1.5/32nds from full tread. Obviously tracking them will accelerate wear significantly, but I think they would handle it and be a lot faster than the DW.
Carbotech pads are better than the stoptechs but you're talking WAY more money. Stoptech street performance is $57 front and $35 rear on rock auto's site right now. You can't beat them for the price.
FWIW the RE-11's are also really good tires for 200+ tw and I really like them in the rain on my C5Z. I have something like 5k street miles and a few autox days on them with almost no treadwear so far, I think they're down 1.5/32nds from full tread. Obviously tracking them will accelerate wear significantly, but I think they would handle it and be a lot faster than the DW.
11-10-2014, 12:28 AM
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
Take an extra set of pads with you, it can't hurt. Though, you won't burn through one set of pads.
Horsepower makes heat. The faster you go, the more brake you will need. Even then, the 1000+HP GT-R's aren't changing pads.
Have you done time trials before?
On tire selection, the Michelin's are an all around super performance tire. You will thank me if you have to run any of the events in the rain. The Conti's are great, though, you really get what you pay for, the Michelins are the definition of extreme performance.
You can run "race" camber for alignment. Either way the tires will be all but finished after 3500+ miles.
The key is to finish and in finishing, that means no DNF's for any event. So, think ahead carefully. The idea is not to necessarily win the lowest ET everywhere. Keep the car out of the grass and do not dump or abuse the clutch. Find the track for the next day visually the night before, always. And, lastly, WAZE is your friend.
Horsepower makes heat. The faster you go, the more brake you will need. Even then, the 1000+HP GT-R's aren't changing pads.
Have you done time trials before?
On tire selection, the Michelin's are an all around super performance tire. You will thank me if you have to run any of the events in the rain. The Conti's are great, though, you really get what you pay for, the Michelins are the definition of extreme performance.
You can run "race" camber for alignment. Either way the tires will be all but finished after 3500+ miles.
The key is to finish and in finishing, that means no DNF's for any event. So, think ahead carefully. The idea is not to necessarily win the lowest ET everywhere. Keep the car out of the grass and do not dump or abuse the clutch. Find the track for the next day visually the night before, always. And, lastly, WAZE is your friend.
Excellent info thanks! And a couple thoughts I did not think of, thanks again!
Nope, no TT before.
Stoptech street performance pads are cheaper than cheap and should last a few laps before fading, I run them as my street/autox pads with Bridgestone RE-11 tires. The pads are so cheap you could buy 2 sets to have a backup set for less than the cost of many other options.
Carbotech pads are better than the stoptechs but you're talking WAY more money. Stoptech street performance is $57 front and $35 rear on rock auto's site right now. You can't beat them for the price.
FWIW the RE-11's are also really good tires for 200+ tw and I really like them in the rain on my C5Z. I have something like 5k street miles and a few autox days on them with almost no treadwear so far, I think they're down 1.5/32nds from full tread. Obviously tracking them will accelerate wear significantly, but I think they would handle it and be a lot faster than the DW.
Carbotech pads are better than the stoptechs but you're talking WAY more money. Stoptech street performance is $57 front and $35 rear on rock auto's site right now. You can't beat them for the price.
FWIW the RE-11's are also really good tires for 200+ tw and I really like them in the rain on my C5Z. I have something like 5k street miles and a few autox days on them with almost no treadwear so far, I think they're down 1.5/32nds from full tread. Obviously tracking them will accelerate wear significantly, but I think they would handle it and be a lot faster than the DW.
The RE 11's are near the mich PS price, so if I get close to the PS price, I will get the PS. They seem to be the benchmark in ALL the car mags I read.
On the brake pads, I have PFC Z rated all around for DD'ing. How do the stop techs compare to those, if you know?
11-10-2014, 01:51 PM
#12
Team Owner
Brock is always happy to answer questions and offer advice. He can give you a lot of pointers.
Hoping some more One Lap veterans can chime in to offer you some more advice.
11-10-2014, 02:20 PM
#13
Supporting Vendor
I and another forum member are signed up for the 2015 OLOA.
I am trying to figure out a good brake pad compound the event.
We will see 4 concurrent laps at tracks and then stop. So they don't have to hold up for 20 min sessions. And then they need to work for 3200 miles of street use.
I was thinking a PFC 99 or 01 compound all around. But, curious what someone else might suggest.
AND FWIW, we do not plan on winning. We just wanna finish. Dead last is ok with us as long as we finish.
Thanks!
I am trying to figure out a good brake pad compound the event.
We will see 4 concurrent laps at tracks and then stop. So they don't have to hold up for 20 min sessions. And then they need to work for 3200 miles of street use.
I was thinking a PFC 99 or 01 compound all around. But, curious what someone else might suggest.
AND FWIW, we do not plan on winning. We just wanna finish. Dead last is ok with us as long as we finish.
Thanks!
I carry a lot of options. I have some favorites. And I just fried a set of something I was trying on my FRC this weekend @ Summit Point because I try and stay on top of various things.
I don't think you want or need a full race pad if you are running 4 laps and in, and would not recommend a full race pad for that use.
This is where something like Ferodo DS2500's rock it, and are hugely streetable and not hard at all on rotors. Are they my choice for a full track weekend on a Corvette? no, but that's not what you are doing.
No way would the Stoptech's be enough (I carry those too). You have to have brakes, they are not a good place to get cheap the cars, and well your life, is worth more than saving a little money.
__________________
Sam Strano
Strano Performance Parts
www.stranoparts.com
814-849-3450
More options than any other single company out there. More parts than any other single company I know: Brakes to Safety, Wheels to Exhaust. Suspension to Air Filters: Girodisc, Hawk, Raybestos, Essex Racing/AP, Ferodo, Wilwood, Penske, Koni, Borg Motorsport, Ridetech, Viking, After Dark Speed, Hotchkis, Bilstein, KW, Forgestar, BC Forged, Forgeline, MRR Wheels and on, and on, and on it goes.
Sam Strano
Strano Performance Parts
www.stranoparts.com
814-849-3450
More options than any other single company out there. More parts than any other single company I know: Brakes to Safety, Wheels to Exhaust. Suspension to Air Filters: Girodisc, Hawk, Raybestos, Essex Racing/AP, Ferodo, Wilwood, Penske, Koni, Borg Motorsport, Ridetech, Viking, After Dark Speed, Hotchkis, Bilstein, KW, Forgestar, BC Forged, Forgeline, MRR Wheels and on, and on, and on it goes.
11-10-2014, 11:15 PM
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Is it a stock weight car? Most people run race pads for the One Lap. It is easy to get into brake fade during 3 hot laps when you are seriously rolling out. Change the fluid out to be high-temp stuff as well.
Brock is always happy to answer questions and offer advice. He can give you a lot of pointers.
Hoping some more One Lap veterans can chime in to offer you some more advice.
Brock is always happy to answer questions and offer advice. He can give you a lot of pointers.
Hoping some more One Lap veterans can chime in to offer you some more advice.
Yep, stock weight car that has SRF brake fluid
Um, maybe I'm missing it, but what car/brakes?
I carry a lot of options. I have some favorites. And I just fried a set of something I was trying on my FRC this weekend @ Summit Point because I try and stay on top of various things.
I don't think you want or need a full race pad if you are running 4 laps and in, and would not recommend a full race pad for that use.
This is where something like Ferodo DS2500's rock it, and are hugely streetable and not hard at all on rotors. Are they my choice for a full track weekend on a Corvette? no, but that's not what you are doing.
No way would the Stoptech's be enough (I carry those too). You have to have brakes, they are not a good place to get cheap the cars, and well your life, is worth more than saving a little money.
I carry a lot of options. I have some favorites. And I just fried a set of something I was trying on my FRC this weekend @ Summit Point because I try and stay on top of various things.
I don't think you want or need a full race pad if you are running 4 laps and in, and would not recommend a full race pad for that use.
This is where something like Ferodo DS2500's rock it, and are hugely streetable and not hard at all on rotors. Are they my choice for a full track weekend on a Corvette? no, but that's not what you are doing.
No way would the Stoptech's be enough (I carry those too). You have to have brakes, they are not a good place to get cheap the cars, and well your life, is worth more than saving a little money.
The car is a 99 FRC with bilstein sport shocks, brake cooling ducts, stock capliers, SRF fluid, headers, larger f/r sway bars, fixed back seat and will have harness bar and harness
Yeah.. I agree about the brakes. I am also looking for either a pad I can use at HPDE's or use on the street after OLOA.
And if it helps, I will be towing my trailer when not on the track, so the car will be a little heavier than normal during the 3200 street miles. So with that in mind, I thought a "medium" race pad might work. But, I am VERY open to suggestions... thus why I am here.
I know there are OLOA folks here and lots of track junkies, so I was trying to learn a lil something!
11-10-2014, 11:51 PM
#15
Supporting Vendor
The car is a 99 FRC with bilstein sport shocks, brake cooling ducts, stock capliers, SRF fluid, headers, larger f/r sway bars, fixed back seat and will have harness bar and harness
Yeah.. I agree about the brakes. I am also looking for either a pad I can use at HPDE's or use on the street after OLOA.
And if it helps, I will be towing my trailer when not on the track, so the car will be a little heavier than normal during the 3200 street miles. So with that in mind, I thought a "medium" race pad might work. But, I am VERY open to suggestions... thus why I am here.
I know there are OLOA folks here and lots of track junkies, so I was trying to learn a lil something!
The fact you have ducting just makes me that much more certain of this recommendation.
Front:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=32&ModelID=11
Rear:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=32&PartID=85
If you want some more information....
http://www.ferodoracing.com/products...e-pads/ds2500/
I have them in stock 99% of the time. I just ordered a set for my FRC in fact after doing some other experimenting. I wish they had them for the C6Z because I'd use them on that too.
They are NOT race pads. But the best compromise pad I've ever used. I've driven them through winters on my Scion FR-S. I put 20k on a set on that, including track use (20-30 minute sessions), and the rotors looked like new after all that. And when I say winters, I mean Western PA winters, not Florida winters.
Basically, they work stone cold. They have good bite without being on/off like some pads (think Hawk HP+). They modulate really well becasue they have a very linear torque curve. They don't screw with ABS functionability. Pads that are too sticky cause issues because even though the ABS cycles if the pads don't release cleanly it's like the ABS isn't functioning properly. 500*C is close to 1000*F, and over 4 laps with ducting, etc. these are a great choice.
Hope that helps. If you want to discuss other options I have lots. Stoptech, Hawk, PFC, Raybestos, EBC and others.
11-11-2014, 06:13 PM
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
Ah, great.
The fact you have ducting just makes me that much more certain of this recommendation.
Front:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=32&ModelID=11
Rear:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=32&PartID=85
If you want some more information....
http://www.ferodoracing.com/products...e-pads/ds2500/
I have them in stock 99% of the time. I just ordered a set for my FRC in fact after doing some other experimenting. I wish they had them for the C6Z because I'd use them on that too.
They are NOT race pads. But the best compromise pad I've ever used. I've driven them through winters on my Scion FR-S. I put 20k on a set on that, including track use (20-30 minute sessions), and the rotors looked like new after all that. And when I say winters, I mean Western PA winters, not Florida winters.
Basically, they work stone cold. They have good bite without being on/off like some pads (think Hawk HP+). They modulate really well becasue they have a very linear torque curve. They don't screw with ABS functionability. Pads that are too sticky cause issues because even though the ABS cycles if the pads don't release cleanly it's like the ABS isn't functioning properly. 500*C is close to 1000*F, and over 4 laps with ducting, etc. these are a great choice.
Hope that helps. If you want to discuss other options I have lots. Stoptech, Hawk, PFC, Raybestos, EBC and others.
The fact you have ducting just makes me that much more certain of this recommendation.
Front:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=32&ModelID=11
Rear:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=32&PartID=85
If you want some more information....
http://www.ferodoracing.com/products...e-pads/ds2500/
I have them in stock 99% of the time. I just ordered a set for my FRC in fact after doing some other experimenting. I wish they had them for the C6Z because I'd use them on that too.
They are NOT race pads. But the best compromise pad I've ever used. I've driven them through winters on my Scion FR-S. I put 20k on a set on that, including track use (20-30 minute sessions), and the rotors looked like new after all that. And when I say winters, I mean Western PA winters, not Florida winters.
Basically, they work stone cold. They have good bite without being on/off like some pads (think Hawk HP+). They modulate really well becasue they have a very linear torque curve. They don't screw with ABS functionability. Pads that are too sticky cause issues because even though the ABS cycles if the pads don't release cleanly it's like the ABS isn't functioning properly. 500*C is close to 1000*F, and over 4 laps with ducting, etc. these are a great choice.
Hope that helps. If you want to discuss other options I have lots. Stoptech, Hawk, PFC, Raybestos, EBC and others.
Is it corrosive to the wheels? Sorry, I could not find that answer in the link provided.
Is it a good enough track pad for say Road Atlanta or Barber for (4) 20 min sessions for a 2 day weekend?
11-11-2014, 06:39 PM
#17
Supporting Vendor
As for Road Atlanta and Barber. That answer is maybe. I'd not make any guarantees they'd be used up I think. Honestly for that use I'd move to a more dedicated track pad. A DS3000, a Hawk HT-10 or up, that sort of thing.
11-11-2014, 11:09 PM
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
Nope, in fact what tends to eat wheels isn't the pads but the metal from the rotor wear embedding itself into the wheels. These don't do that they are super easy on rotors.
As for Road Atlanta and Barber. That answer is maybe. I'd not make any guarantees they'd be used up I think. Honestly for that use I'd move to a more dedicated track pad. A DS3000, a Hawk HT-10 or up, that sort of thing.
As for Road Atlanta and Barber. That answer is maybe. I'd not make any guarantees they'd be used up I think. Honestly for that use I'd move to a more dedicated track pad. A DS3000, a Hawk HT-10 or up, that sort of thing.
Oh...ok
And on the pads, I was just curious as to what I might be able to use them for after OLOA, if their is enough material left over. Street duty is fine by me..lol
Again, I am *trying* to save money where possible and buy items I can either use for DD or HPDE after OLOA is complete. If those items are slap wore out, so be it. That is the cost of doing what ya love.
11-12-2014, 01:26 PM
#20
Supporting Vendor
Oh...ok
And on the pads, I was just curious as to what I might be able to use them for after OLOA, if their is enough material left over. Street duty is fine by me..lol
Again, I am *trying* to save money where possible and buy items I can either use for DD or HPDE after OLOA is complete. If those items are slap wore out, so be it. That is the cost of doing what ya love.
And on the pads, I was just curious as to what I might be able to use them for after OLOA, if their is enough material left over. Street duty is fine by me..lol
Again, I am *trying* to save money where possible and buy items I can either use for DD or HPDE after OLOA is complete. If those items are slap wore out, so be it. That is the cost of doing what ya love.
Here's a little something you might find relevant to the discussion:
http://www.catesracing.com/flp/nasa/..._0691.JPG.html In fact if you hit "next" 6 or 7 more times you get a whole series of shots.
That's me from this past Saturday. Taken coming into turn 5 @ Summit Point WV (Main track).
The thing with me is this. I not only own Corvettes (the FRC and a C6Z) but I drive them, like this and autocross them. And I've got a pretty proven record of winning events too. But where the real value is for you is simply that I can try things in a situation similar to what you might find yourself.
I don't collect a paycheck at my sales job and go home being I own this place, and I run cars hard, it's important to me to do 'research' so I can make the best recommendations I can.