froggy47

Now I run poly bushings & LOTS of alignment -3.5 f, -1.5 r, toe in/out so basically I cannot drive the car very far on the street with 200 or less TW tires without shredding them in a very few miles.

I'd like to be able to drive to some tracks that are 100 - 250 miles one way and not wanting to change alignment 3 times in a weekend.

So if I go to solid bushings (or maybe delrin) can I set my static camber much less aggressive & still have good dynamic camber at the event and thereby not shred my soft tires on the "commute".

Maybe like -2.5/-1.2/ zero toe f and a little toe in back?

My understanding is the stiffer you go in bushings, the less alignment you need to set to end up where you need to be at the track.

If you actually do this (with delrin or soilds) , how much alignment are you running & how's it feel at the track?

I know it'll ride rough.

383

I ran 2.2 f 1.6 r with Delrin and my wear was even on my 888's street track and auto-x
I changed toe at the track/auto-x before and after. Toe is what kills tires, as you probably know
Delrin feels AWESOME compared to rubber. I dont care about street manners though.

froggy47

Did you change the toe just using some pre set marks? Or # of flats?

383

I count flats then double check (if the steering wheel is off) with a tape.
Marks are too hard to line up for me with the jam nut in the way, plus I usually don't even look I just go by feel.

Gordy M

This summer on my way to Savannah GA, the trans on my tow vehicle quit 300 miles out. I dropped my 2000 FRC from the trailer and drove the other 600 miles and returned in a week to pick up the tow vehicle and drive home 1200 miles of highway, an autocross and time trials at Roebling on 2.0/1.2 with 0 toe front and 1/16 neg rear. When back in Michigan I checked my tread depth with a digital guage and the wear was virtually the same all across the thread. Tires were BFG Rivals....also got 35 mpg on highway. HTH

Lawdogg

I run monoballs with -2.2 up front and -1.5 rear. On the track my slicks wear evenly. I previously ran poly with -3.4 front. Worked with the slicks but wore out the inside of my street tires too fast when driving on the street. With -2.2 up front, the street tires are lasting much longer. I've always run near 0 toe front and rear.

froggy47

Your setup sounds like whatI'd be shooting for. Thank you.

383

Seems like -2.2 is the magic # up front.

troyguitar

I run delrins with zero toe front, 1/8" toe in rear, and this year ran -1.6/-1.1 with zero wear issues on Bridgestone RE-11's. Next year I'll be upping the camber to more like -2.2/-1.5 while keeping toe the same. I'll probably add some toe out in front and toe in at the rear at the track when I change brake pads and pull it back out before heading home.

mountainbiker2

I went from poly to spherical and did not notice any difference in wear. Didn't change the alignment at all. I bet you could only back off 1/4-1/2 degree at most to get the same results. If your lucky.
Steve

froggy47

So you also notice "extra" wear from street driving an aggressive alignment?

Even though my round trip to the stadium is only 50 miles, I am at the point where the street driving wears more off the edge than the autox runs.

For just the autox runs the alignment seems about perfect.

mountainbiker2

The silver Corvette I drove on the street to the races only. 130miles round trip. When the Hoosiers were brand new with the stickers still on them, I could still see the sticker after driving it 65 miles to the track. My Z16 Corvette I drive more often on the street, but not much. I'm running stock bushings. Hankook RS3's. I don't care about wear. I guess you have to make a decision what's more important. Race alignment or street alignment. Which you already now. Whatever bushings you use, will not make that much difference.

Steve

Lawdogg

Poly bushing flex was significant when I ran slicks. Required -3.4 up front camber to not wear out the outside edge of the slicks. With monoballs and -2.2 the slicks wear evenly. Now my street tires last much longer.

strano@stranoparts.com

Depends on the tires.... But I find that I don't need more than about -2.6 for my driving on 315 Hoosier's on 9.5" front wheels.

A little less deflection from the bushings will have some small effect on camber loss, but it's not going to be massive unless your bushings are shot to hell and the arms are moving all over.

froggy47

Those Delrin bushings that you are making, do they have to be hand fit (turned on a lathe) for each control arm?

How will that work when you are ready to sell them?



My Pfadt poly's are in excellent shape, do you think I could run less (front especially).

I can see that I'm using (getting onto) the outer edges of the tires (a6) but I'm not sure "how much" I haven't taken temps in a while. Suppose I should.

Maybe I should go back to -3.0? I do like the front grip, never pushes unless it's driver induced. Overall very neutral car.

strano@stranoparts.com

I'm not interested in installing them. And installing them isn't exactly hard. Press the old ones out and the new ones in. They are captured in the arm by locks and washers. But if you for some reason have an issue you can sand a bushing a bit to get it in the arm. However, never had to do that with the delrin uppers I made for F-bodies that even re-used the metal sleeve from the stock bushing that you had the burn the rubber out of (the heat possibly distorting the metal).

froggy47

I installed the poly's & like you say it's not "that" hard to do.

I made a jig to press out the rubber so no fires were started with my process.

I'll take a set when I find a c6z.

Thanks for being on the forum with solid info.