Engineer looking for something to do...
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Engineer looking for something to do...
I pay for access to a place called NextFab which is a community machine shop. It has a paint booth, manual and CNC lathes and mills, 3D printing machines, laser etching, welders, CAD computers, etc.
I'm looking for something to work on that isn't readily available.
My first thought was converting the outer Rzeppa CV joint to a tripod. I have to figure out if the angular motion is acceptable for the tripod but if anyone has other ideas, please throw out whatever you can think of.
I'm looking for something to work on that isn't readily available.
My first thought was converting the outer Rzeppa CV joint to a tripod. I have to figure out if the angular motion is acceptable for the tripod but if anyone has other ideas, please throw out whatever you can think of.
#2
Burning Brakes
Aluminum splitter frame, allow user to attach marine plywood or Tegris to it. Would have two uprights to front bumper bar and two uprights to frame. (Just back from hood hinge). Should include spacers so that you can bolt it through the frame without crushing the frame.
Aluminum uprights for a rear wing are also needed!
Aluminum uprights for a rear wing are also needed!
#3
Burning Brakes
If you just want ideas of what you could do for yourself, here are a couple that seem like relatively simple DIY type things (although some of them you can buy from forum sponsors):
- Seat Brackets
- Brake duct mounts (hose to spindle)
- Mount for Cool Suite cooler
- mounts for rear wing (thru the trunk lid to the frame)
- Tow hooks
- Fire ext mount
- Camera mount (assuming you have harness bar or cage)
- Pedal covers
- Seat brace (racing seat to cross bar)
- alum guibo
- delrin bushing for suspension
- camber plates (the small blocks that replace excentrics on lower control arms)
- Seat Brackets
- Brake duct mounts (hose to spindle)
- Mount for Cool Suite cooler
- mounts for rear wing (thru the trunk lid to the frame)
- Tow hooks
- Fire ext mount
- Camera mount (assuming you have harness bar or cage)
- Pedal covers
- Seat brace (racing seat to cross bar)
- alum guibo
- delrin bushing for suspension
- camber plates (the small blocks that replace excentrics on lower control arms)
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
In a year or two I'll be concerned about aero but not right now.
#5
I'll add on to that idea: tubular control arms with spherical bearings/bushings.
Lower control arms in particular since OEM lower ball joints are non-serviceable but get burned up at the track. And, existing stock of used arms aren't getting any younger...
Lower control arms in particular since OEM lower ball joints are non-serviceable but get burned up at the track. And, existing stock of used arms aren't getting any younger...
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
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Spherical shock mounts for pin top style shocks, there's just not a good solution out there right now, the rears would be easier than the fronts since you have a bracket to work with.
Something that looks like this.
Fronts are tougher since there just isn't much room to work with.
Something that looks like this.
Fronts are tougher since there just isn't much room to work with.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I actually already have a thread on this. I have delrin versions designed but I'm thinking about monoball versions like you posted. I figure the front probably can't be done without opening up the thru hole a bit for a 3/4" monoball. There are a couple ways to make it work once you commit to that.
Who makes the ones in the pic? Can't make out the name.
Who makes the ones in the pic? Can't make out the name.
#8
I think you should work on/fab up a cockpit adjustable front swaybar I drew up and built the cockpit adjuster portion last winter but haven't had time to build the swaybar yet. We could team up!
#9
How about instead of using rubber or poly bushings, you have it with solid or bearing based mounts?
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
It looks like your design is done you just need to make the sway bar and route push/pull cables? Is there a reason you didn't make it into a single handle or did you plan on a front and rear?
#11
correct, I planned for front and rear bars, however the modular nature of the handle means you could easily run it as a single setup and then build/add in the 2nd handle when you needed it for the other bar.
#12
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
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I actually already have a thread on this. I have delrin versions designed but I'm thinking about monoball versions like you posted. I figure the front probably can't be done without opening up the thru hole a bit for a 3/4" monoball. There are a couple ways to make it work once you commit to that.
Who makes the ones in the pic? Can't make out the name.
Who makes the ones in the pic? Can't make out the name.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Instead of doing delrin like everyone else, here is my spherical bearing solution for the front shocks. It will require using a 1.75" hole saw/drill bit of some kind. The hole is about .865" now. Then the bearing cup inserts from the bottom and two big jam nuts w/loctite hold the cup from the top. I'm assuming you can get a 1 3/4" socket in the chassis mount to hold the bearing cup.
The rears are just like the BMW ones posted.
The rears are just like the BMW ones posted.
Last edited by RBbugBITme; 12-16-2014 at 02:53 AM.
#14
Melting Slicks
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That makes sense to me, I figured there would have to be some kind of modification up front to make it work, weather something was bolted in or the hole had to be opened up like you have here.
It also looks like you are using a high misalignment bearing along with some reducers to get the correct sizing for the top of the shock - that would allow it to work with more and more shock manufactures.
It also looks like you are using a high misalignment bearing along with some reducers to get the correct sizing for the top of the shock - that would allow it to work with more and more shock manufactures.
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
I was more concerned about bearing life by oversizing it.
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
I like the idea GregK. Maybe there is a fitment reason it doesn't exist already?
I switched the materials on the front shock post mount to 17-4PH and thinned the bearing cup so a 1 5/8 drill could be used to modify the upper mount, I could avoiding over-designing aluminum for fatigue issues, and do away with coatings. Material costs should be a reasonable $30-$40. Machining will start after New Years!
I switched the materials on the front shock post mount to 17-4PH and thinned the bearing cup so a 1 5/8 drill could be used to modify the upper mount, I could avoiding over-designing aluminum for fatigue issues, and do away with coatings. Material costs should be a reasonable $30-$40. Machining will start after New Years!
#19
Racer
Member Since: May 2000
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I think the issue is can the stock caliper accommodate the increased arc of the larger rotor without contacting the rotor or bad pad to rotor alignment. I just thought it would be an inexpensive way to get larger rotors vice a full BBK.