From a 4th Gen FBody to C5 Z06, operating costs.
12-17-2014, 02:44 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
From a 4th Gen FBody to C5 Z06, operating costs.
The car I have now has been bulletproof, it's a 99 Z28. It is a 100% street car that see's trackdays...about 6 a year(ish).
It has LS6 power that I built and installed 35k miles ago and who knows how many laps it has.....a bunch. It has been lapping since 2010, 2011 with the LS6 in it.
I swap in Kirkey seats, swap brake pads, put on 275/40/17 rcomps and go run it.
Car has bolt on suspension pieces and Wilwood front brakes. It's not slow 1:47 at Barber, 1:59 at NOLA
The only real maintenance item this car has is front wheel bearings and brake pads.
I have $16K in the whole deal, including spare wheels(3 sets) etc.
I am thinking about a C5 Z06 to put in it's place, to do the exact same thing with.
What are the regular maintenance items on this car?
Will an 18 inch Kirkey seat fit in it? Is there a bolt in style roll bar for it?
What needs to be done to track it? Anything other than lower it on the bolts, alignment and pads?
I am reading the sticky, not much race seat info or what fails regularly on a C5...like wheel bearings etc.
Thanks guys, it may be time to step up.
It has LS6 power that I built and installed 35k miles ago and who knows how many laps it has.....a bunch. It has been lapping since 2010, 2011 with the LS6 in it.
I swap in Kirkey seats, swap brake pads, put on 275/40/17 rcomps and go run it.
Car has bolt on suspension pieces and Wilwood front brakes. It's not slow 1:47 at Barber, 1:59 at NOLA
The only real maintenance item this car has is front wheel bearings and brake pads.
I have $16K in the whole deal, including spare wheels(3 sets) etc.
I am thinking about a C5 Z06 to put in it's place, to do the exact same thing with.
What are the regular maintenance items on this car?
Will an 18 inch Kirkey seat fit in it? Is there a bolt in style roll bar for it?
What needs to be done to track it? Anything other than lower it on the bolts, alignment and pads?
I am reading the sticky, not much race seat info or what fails regularly on a C5...like wheel bearings etc.
Thanks guys, it may be time to step up.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 12-17-2014 at 04:51 PM.
12-17-2014, 06:11 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Congratulations on your Camaro! I would keep it because you already have it dialed in, and you won't touch it in a C5 Z06 for that price or investment.
HOWEVER: If you are going to get a C5 Z06 anyway.................
I recommend that you sell your Camaro for whatever you can get for it, and buy a properly setup C5 Z06 RACE car,. Preferably one built by a major tuner like Phoenix Racing and/or a national champion's car, but the best that you can afford.
WHY? Because I suspect that your track goal is to spend your money and time DRIVING the car, and not on setup and dialing in. Your best (most cost effective and safest) way to be competitive is to buy a well set up RACE car, fully caged and set up.........then, just go race (or track) it
Let us know
check this thread:https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
HOWEVER: If you are going to get a C5 Z06 anyway.................
I recommend that you sell your Camaro for whatever you can get for it, and buy a properly setup C5 Z06 RACE car,. Preferably one built by a major tuner like Phoenix Racing and/or a national champion's car, but the best that you can afford.
WHY? Because I suspect that your track goal is to spend your money and time DRIVING the car, and not on setup and dialing in. Your best (most cost effective and safest) way to be competitive is to buy a well set up RACE car, fully caged and set up.........then, just go race (or track) it
Let us knowcheck this thread:https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
Last edited by 63Corvette; 12-17-2014 at 06:19 PM.
12-17-2014, 08:21 PM
#3
Safety Car
Bearings are still an issue with R compounds and some determination, but SKF makes some that race part vendors sell that are more durable. For me, it was just pads, rotors, and gas. The car wasn't very needy at all. I did add an oil cooler and spindle ducts and had wanted to address all the cooling, but ended up buying a race car (4th gen) instead.
12-18-2014, 12:29 AM
#4
Racer
Member Since: May 2010
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12-18-2014, 01:42 PM
#5
Racer
I agree! I bought mine well prepped for the same cost as a stock C5z06. Saved a lot in intial cost. This invesment never comes back to you, as you will learn when you sell the Camaro! Look at all of them out there for sale and buy the best one you can all ready to go. Then go have fun and adjust to your liking.
Congratulations on your Camaro! I would keep it because you already have it dialed in, and you won't touch it in a C5 Z06 for that price or investment.
HOWEVER: If you are going to get a C5 Z06 anyway.................
I recommend that you sell your Camaro for whatever you can get for it, and buy a properly setup C5 Z06 RACE car,. Preferably one built by a major tuner like Phoenix Racing and/or a national champion's car, but the best that you can afford.
WHY? Because I suspect that your track goal is to spend your money and time DRIVING the car, and not on setup and dialing in. Your best (most cost effective and safest) way to be competitive is to buy a well set up RACE car, fully caged and set up.........then, just go race (or track) it Let us know
check this thread:https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
HOWEVER: If you are going to get a C5 Z06 anyway.................
I recommend that you sell your Camaro for whatever you can get for it, and buy a properly setup C5 Z06 RACE car,. Preferably one built by a major tuner like Phoenix Racing and/or a national champion's car, but the best that you can afford.
WHY? Because I suspect that your track goal is to spend your money and time DRIVING the car, and not on setup and dialing in. Your best (most cost effective and safest) way to be competitive is to buy a well set up RACE car, fully caged and set up.........then, just go race (or track) it
Let us knowcheck this thread:https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
12-19-2014, 06:34 PM
#6
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,089
Received 8,928 Likes
on
5,333 Posts
I ran a 97 for 6 years and an 03Z for another 6 years. Problems/failures are pretty much the same across the C5 range.
First, it will be tight getting an 18 inch seat in the car. I had 17 inch Ultrashields and it was a tight fit from the console to the door. Seat brackets could be an issue since the outer stock lap belt take up reel is inside the door and takes up some of your room.
Second, oil temp will be an issue so you need an engine oil cooler. I went with a Ron Davis racing radiator with built in engine oil cooler and a remote oil filter. Total oil capacity went from 7 qts (some people say 6.5) to 9 when I had the extra quart GM recommends for doing track days.
Wheel bearings, tie rod ends and power steering components will also require some attention when you track the car.
Brakes will be a problem. I added the LG G Stop kit which uses wide Wilwood SL6 calipers in the front permitting the use of 20mm thick pads and stock size rotors. I also had extra cooling air going to the rotors but it didn't help all that much. Stock rotors or aftermarket versions of stock rotors would last about 3 days before cracking.
The nice thing is the calipers fit under the stock front wheels.
On track I used C4 GS Offset 17x11 wheels with Kumho 710s on all 4 corners. Car was a track monster with just an aggressive alignment without any lowering.
I also recommend a tranny and diff cooler to keep those items reliable.
A roll bar won't do much to protect you in a C5. The stock roof halo is strong with the weak point being the windshield and A pillars like it is on almost all other cars. If you are concerned about a rollover you need to go to a full cage. There are several harness bars that are available that work well in the car.
Pretty much a stock car that can run like a raped ape on the track with some tweaking to the alignment and safety/reliability mods. If you want to keep up with C6Zs then you need to add a cam to get another 100 HP. The engines on my 97 or 03Z were completely stock from the time I bought them until I sold them 6 years later. Everything was original including the spark plugs. Basically, the only thing changed over that time was the oil and coolant and the air cleaner. Cars were pretty much bullet proof. Drive them like hell, come off the track and park them leave the hood closed and hop into a student's car and come back when the next instructor session came up an hour and half later.
Bill
First, it will be tight getting an 18 inch seat in the car. I had 17 inch Ultrashields and it was a tight fit from the console to the door. Seat brackets could be an issue since the outer stock lap belt take up reel is inside the door and takes up some of your room.
Second, oil temp will be an issue so you need an engine oil cooler. I went with a Ron Davis racing radiator with built in engine oil cooler and a remote oil filter. Total oil capacity went from 7 qts (some people say 6.5) to 9 when I had the extra quart GM recommends for doing track days.
Wheel bearings, tie rod ends and power steering components will also require some attention when you track the car.
Brakes will be a problem. I added the LG G Stop kit which uses wide Wilwood SL6 calipers in the front permitting the use of 20mm thick pads and stock size rotors. I also had extra cooling air going to the rotors but it didn't help all that much. Stock rotors or aftermarket versions of stock rotors would last about 3 days before cracking.
The nice thing is the calipers fit under the stock front wheels.
On track I used C4 GS Offset 17x11 wheels with Kumho 710s on all 4 corners. Car was a track monster with just an aggressive alignment without any lowering.
I also recommend a tranny and diff cooler to keep those items reliable.
A roll bar won't do much to protect you in a C5. The stock roof halo is strong with the weak point being the windshield and A pillars like it is on almost all other cars. If you are concerned about a rollover you need to go to a full cage. There are several harness bars that are available that work well in the car.
Pretty much a stock car that can run like a raped ape on the track with some tweaking to the alignment and safety/reliability mods. If you want to keep up with C6Zs then you need to add a cam to get another 100 HP. The engines on my 97 or 03Z were completely stock from the time I bought them until I sold them 6 years later. Everything was original including the spark plugs. Basically, the only thing changed over that time was the oil and coolant and the air cleaner. Cars were pretty much bullet proof. Drive them like hell, come off the track and park them leave the hood closed and hop into a student's car and come back when the next instructor session came up an hour and half later.
Bill
12-19-2014, 08:20 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
I ran a 97 for 6 years and an 03Z for another 6 years. Problems/failures are pretty much the same across the C5 range.
First, it will be tight getting an 18 inch seat in the car. I had 17 inch Ultrashields and it was a tight fit from the console to the door. Seat brackets could be an issue since the outer stock lap belt take up reel is inside the door and takes up some of your room.
Second, oil temp will be an issue so you need an engine oil cooler. I went with a Ron Davis racing radiator with built in engine oil cooler and a remote oil filter. Total oil capacity went from 7 qts (some people say 6.5) to 9 when I had the extra quart GM recommends for doing track days.
Wheel bearings, tie rod ends and power steering components will also require some attention when you track the car.
Brakes will be a problem. I added the LG G Stop kit which uses wide Wilwood SL6 calipers in the front permitting the use of 20mm thick pads and stock size rotors. I also had extra cooling air going to the rotors but it didn't help all that much. Stock rotors or aftermarket versions of stock rotors would last about 3 days before cracking.
The nice thing is the calipers fit under the stock front wheels.
On track I used C4 GS Offset 17x11 wheels with Kumho 710s on all 4 corners. Car was a track monster with just an aggressive alignment without any lowering.
I also recommend a tranny and diff cooler to keep those items reliable.
A roll bar won't do much to protect you in a C5. The stock roof halo is strong with the weak point being the windshield and A pillars like it is on almost all other cars. If you are concerned about a rollover you need to go to a full cage. There are several harness bars that are available that work well in the car.
Pretty much a stock car that can run like a raped ape on the track with some tweaking to the alignment and safety/reliability mods. If you want to keep up with C6Zs then you need to add a cam to get another 100 HP. The engines on my 97 or 03Z were completely stock from the time I bought them until I sold them 6 years later. Everything was original including the spark plugs. Basically, the only thing changed over that time was the oil and coolant and the air cleaner. Cars were pretty much bullet proof. Drive them like hell, come off the track and park them leave the hood closed and hop into a student's car and come back when the next instructor session came up an hour and half later.
Bill
First, it will be tight getting an 18 inch seat in the car. I had 17 inch Ultrashields and it was a tight fit from the console to the door. Seat brackets could be an issue since the outer stock lap belt take up reel is inside the door and takes up some of your room.
Second, oil temp will be an issue so you need an engine oil cooler. I went with a Ron Davis racing radiator with built in engine oil cooler and a remote oil filter. Total oil capacity went from 7 qts (some people say 6.5) to 9 when I had the extra quart GM recommends for doing track days.
Wheel bearings, tie rod ends and power steering components will also require some attention when you track the car.
Brakes will be a problem. I added the LG G Stop kit which uses wide Wilwood SL6 calipers in the front permitting the use of 20mm thick pads and stock size rotors. I also had extra cooling air going to the rotors but it didn't help all that much. Stock rotors or aftermarket versions of stock rotors would last about 3 days before cracking.
The nice thing is the calipers fit under the stock front wheels.
On track I used C4 GS Offset 17x11 wheels with Kumho 710s on all 4 corners. Car was a track monster with just an aggressive alignment without any lowering.
I also recommend a tranny and diff cooler to keep those items reliable.
A roll bar won't do much to protect you in a C5. The stock roof halo is strong with the weak point being the windshield and A pillars like it is on almost all other cars. If you are concerned about a rollover you need to go to a full cage. There are several harness bars that are available that work well in the car.
Pretty much a stock car that can run like a raped ape on the track with some tweaking to the alignment and safety/reliability mods. If you want to keep up with C6Zs then you need to add a cam to get another 100 HP. The engines on my 97 or 03Z were completely stock from the time I bought them until I sold them 6 years later. Everything was original including the spark plugs. Basically, the only thing changed over that time was the oil and coolant and the air cleaner. Cars were pretty much bullet proof. Drive them like hell, come off the track and park them leave the hood closed and hop into a student's car and come back when the next instructor session came up an hour and half later.
Bill
I concur................Yeah! what he said
12-19-2014, 09:02 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I ran a 97 for 6 years and an 03Z for another 6 years. Problems/failures are pretty much the same across the C5 range.
First, it will be tight getting an 18 inch seat in the car. I had 17 inch Ultrashields and it was a tight fit from the console to the door. Seat brackets could be an issue since the outer stock lap belt take up reel is inside the door and takes up some of your room.
Second, oil temp will be an issue so you need an engine oil cooler. I went with a Ron Davis racing radiator with built in engine oil cooler and a remote oil filter. Total oil capacity went from 7 qts (some people say 6.5) to 9 when I had the extra quart GM recommends for doing track days.
Wheel bearings, tie rod ends and power steering components will also require some attention when you track the car.
Brakes will be a problem. I added the LG G Stop kit which uses wide Wilwood SL6 calipers in the front permitting the use of 20mm thick pads and stock size rotors. I also had extra cooling air going to the rotors but it didn't help all that much. Stock rotors or aftermarket versions of stock rotors would last about 3 days before cracking.
The nice thing is the calipers fit under the stock front wheels.
On track I used C4 GS Offset 17x11 wheels with Kumho 710s on all 4 corners. Car was a track monster with just an aggressive alignment without any lowering.
I also recommend a tranny and diff cooler to keep those items reliable.
A roll bar won't do much to protect you in a C5. The stock roof halo is strong with the weak point being the windshield and A pillars like it is on almost all other cars. If you are concerned about a rollover you need to go to a full cage. There are several harness bars that are available that work well in the car.
Pretty much a stock car that can run like a raped ape on the track with some tweaking to the alignment and safety/reliability mods. If you want to keep up with C6Zs then you need to add a cam to get another 100 HP. The engines on my 97 or 03Z were completely stock from the time I bought them until I sold them 6 years later. Everything was original including the spark plugs. Basically, the only thing changed over that time was the oil and coolant and the air cleaner. Cars were pretty much bullet proof. Drive them like hell, come off the track and park them leave the hood closed and hop into a student's car and come back when the next instructor session came up an hour and half later.
Bill
First, it will be tight getting an 18 inch seat in the car. I had 17 inch Ultrashields and it was a tight fit from the console to the door. Seat brackets could be an issue since the outer stock lap belt take up reel is inside the door and takes up some of your room.
Second, oil temp will be an issue so you need an engine oil cooler. I went with a Ron Davis racing radiator with built in engine oil cooler and a remote oil filter. Total oil capacity went from 7 qts (some people say 6.5) to 9 when I had the extra quart GM recommends for doing track days.
Wheel bearings, tie rod ends and power steering components will also require some attention when you track the car.
Brakes will be a problem. I added the LG G Stop kit which uses wide Wilwood SL6 calipers in the front permitting the use of 20mm thick pads and stock size rotors. I also had extra cooling air going to the rotors but it didn't help all that much. Stock rotors or aftermarket versions of stock rotors would last about 3 days before cracking.
The nice thing is the calipers fit under the stock front wheels.
On track I used C4 GS Offset 17x11 wheels with Kumho 710s on all 4 corners. Car was a track monster with just an aggressive alignment without any lowering.
I also recommend a tranny and diff cooler to keep those items reliable.
A roll bar won't do much to protect you in a C5. The stock roof halo is strong with the weak point being the windshield and A pillars like it is on almost all other cars. If you are concerned about a rollover you need to go to a full cage. There are several harness bars that are available that work well in the car.
Pretty much a stock car that can run like a raped ape on the track with some tweaking to the alignment and safety/reliability mods. If you want to keep up with C6Zs then you need to add a cam to get another 100 HP. The engines on my 97 or 03Z were completely stock from the time I bought them until I sold them 6 years later. Everything was original including the spark plugs. Basically, the only thing changed over that time was the oil and coolant and the air cleaner. Cars were pretty much bullet proof. Drive them like hell, come off the track and park them leave the hood closed and hop into a student's car and come back when the next instructor session came up an hour and half later.
Bill
There was a blue C5 Z06 like that at Road Atlanta a few years ago, It was blue, black wheels Toyo r888's, good seats. Stock engine, he was flying.
12-20-2014, 08:47 AM
#9
I have both, and I've tracked both.
I ran into oil temp issues with the Z06(stock), that I didn't have with the Formula. Probably because in the Formula I ripped out the AC, and worked a lot on ducting for the radiator.
I almost always take the Formula. For me what it boils down to is this, when I jump on the brakes and the tail starts dancing around as I turn in for a corner, in the firebird its exhilarating, in the Z06 its terrifying. The firebird is just a tool for track work. The Z06 represents too much hard earned money. I find myself driving it at 8/10th's.
Also parts for the Firebird parts are cheaper, and its a lot easier for me to work on. I can change the trans and clutch in under 4 hours on the firebird. Not true of the Z06.
I ran into oil temp issues with the Z06(stock), that I didn't have with the Formula. Probably because in the Formula I ripped out the AC, and worked a lot on ducting for the radiator.
I almost always take the Formula. For me what it boils down to is this, when I jump on the brakes and the tail starts dancing around as I turn in for a corner, in the firebird its exhilarating, in the Z06 its terrifying. The firebird is just a tool for track work. The Z06 represents too much hard earned money. I find myself driving it at 8/10th's.
Also parts for the Firebird parts are cheaper, and its a lot easier for me to work on. I can change the trans and clutch in under 4 hours on the firebird. Not true of the Z06.
12-20-2014, 09:56 AM
#10
Gasoline Addict
Like others have said, buying a built track car is a good idea and will save you money in the long run. I started tracking with a stock Z06 with bolt-ons and after running into cooling issues (brakes, engine, tranny and diff) decided to buy a car that has been track prepped (but no cage). The prepped car cost me as much as I had in my street Z06 and is quite capable on the track without having any cooling issues.
As far as consumables, brakes, fluids and bearings are the gist of it. A C5Z is very capable and I am still growing into its performance envelope. Very well balanced car, and I am glad to have purchased a built car, instead of having to modify my street one.
As far as consumables, brakes, fluids and bearings are the gist of it. A C5Z is very capable and I am still growing into its performance envelope. Very well balanced car, and I am glad to have purchased a built car, instead of having to modify my street one.
12-20-2014, 04:27 PM
#12
Drifting
12-20-2014, 07:49 PM
#13
Gasoline Addict
on both counts. I have Sparco Evo on the driver's side, and it fits just fine. A Cobra Monaco Pro on the passenger's side fits OK too. A square 17" setup is what many people raced on when the C5's first came out. Tires in that size tend to be slightly cheaper and there are plenty of options to choose from.
12-21-2014, 01:50 PM
#14
David
I would stick with the Camaro. After an expensive crash at the runoffs in 1984 (25 or so GT1 cars destroyed) it took me 5 years to get back on the track. My theory is race what you can afford to throw away. If you total your Camaro, for a couple thousand bucks (and a lot of time and effort) you can be back in business. Front fenders are $ 125. Suspension parts are cheap, etc.
Just my .02.
Jack
I would stick with the Camaro. After an expensive crash at the runoffs in 1984 (25 or so GT1 cars destroyed) it took me 5 years to get back on the track. My theory is race what you can afford to throw away. If you total your Camaro, for a couple thousand bucks (and a lot of time and effort) you can be back in business. Front fenders are $ 125. Suspension parts are cheap, etc.
Just my .02.
Jack
12-22-2014, 08:02 AM
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
David
I would stick with the Camaro. After an expensive crash at the runoffs in 1984 (25 or so GT1 cars destroyed) it took me 5 years to get back on the track. My theory is race what you can afford to throw away. If you total your Camaro, for a couple thousand bucks (and a lot of time and effort) you can be back in business. Front fenders are $ 125. Suspension parts are cheap, etc.
Just my .02.
Jack
I would stick with the Camaro. After an expensive crash at the runoffs in 1984 (25 or so GT1 cars destroyed) it took me 5 years to get back on the track. My theory is race what you can afford to throw away. If you total your Camaro, for a couple thousand bucks (and a lot of time and effort) you can be back in business. Front fenders are $ 125. Suspension parts are cheap, etc.
Just my .02.
Jack
I have been in this car for 4 years, the car and I have come a long way in that time. My learning curve has hit a plateau of sorts with it, I just don't know how much quicker a 3800lb solid axle car will go.
I am on the fence and have been for a while, anyone can go fast in a Vette, many have. I am generally the only Fbody in the paddock at DE events, it has a novelty aspect to it for sure.....makes some guys scratch their heads looking at it...... I get some chuckles out of that.
12-22-2014, 08:12 AM
#16
Gasoline Addict
This is what has kept me in the Camaro, right here^^^^^^. If I crash it, bodies and parts are everywhere. I have a lift and shop at home, easy to work on.
I have been in this car for 4 years, the car and I have come a long way in that time. My learning curve has hit a plateau of sorts with it, I just don't know how much quicker a 3800lb solid axle car will go.
I am on the fence and have been for a while, anyone can go fast in a Vette, many have. I am generally the only Fbody in the paddock at DE events, it has a novelty aspect to it for sure.....makes some guys scratch their heads looking at it...... I get some chuckles out of that.
I have been in this car for 4 years, the car and I have come a long way in that time. My learning curve has hit a plateau of sorts with it, I just don't know how much quicker a 3800lb solid axle car will go.
I am on the fence and have been for a while, anyone can go fast in a Vette, many have. I am generally the only Fbody in the paddock at DE events, it has a novelty aspect to it for sure.....makes some guys scratch their heads looking at it...... I get some chuckles out of that.
Or you can buy an ASA or GTA car for under $20k and run it for quite a bit less than a C5. Many on here have done that also, and non regret it.
12-27-2014, 09:16 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Not all decisions we, track addicts, make are financially sound. You need to do what will make you happy. It seems like you are getting frustrated with the current platform and are looking to make the next step, and frankly, a C5 is a very logical next step. It will cost you money, but there are plenty people on here who have bought a wrecked (light rear hit) C5 and turned it cheaply into a track car for around $10k. Yes, the car will be more expensive to run and fix, in case something happens, but it is quite a bit more capable than the F-body you are running now... so you get more, you pay more.
Or you can buy an ASA or GTA car for under $20k and run it for quite a bit less than a C5. Many on here have done that also, and non regret it.
Or you can buy an ASA or GTA car for under $20k and run it for quite a bit less than a C5. Many on here have done that also, and non regret it.
I do all my own work, in theory the C5 should not need much modding. I track in the winter months only so cooling should be fine stock.
Lower it on stock bolts, put a good alignment on it, go to back to NT-05's for a year to learn the car then Rcomps and a BBK on front.
Seats and a harness bar of course on the Vette.
12-28-2014, 12:19 PM
#18
Pro
Not all decisions we, track addicts, make are financially sound. You need to do what will make you happy. It seems like you are getting frustrated with the current platform and are looking to make the next step, and frankly, a C5 is a very logical next step. It will cost you money, but there are plenty people on here who have bought a wrecked (light rear hit) C5 and turned it cheaply into a track car for around $10k. Yes, the car will be more expensive to run and fix, in case something happens, but it is quite a bit more capable than the F-body you are running now... so you get more, you pay more.
Or you can buy an ASA or GTA car for under $20k and run it for quite a bit less than a C5. Many on here have done that also, and non regret it.
Or you can buy an ASA or GTA car for under $20k and run it for quite a bit less than a C5. Many on here have done that also, and non regret it.
3 years ago, got a C5Z, added the oil cooler and brake ducts, put in a few new hubs and haven't looked back. First year, had a lot of brake issues from the ECBM and bad wiring for ABS sensors which was really disconcerting. Since then I have been slowly gaining more confidence in the car (it drives VERY differently than my Camaro) and certainly out of the box, it is sig faster than an LS1 Camaro even though the Camaro with suspension work clearly handles better than a bone stock C5Z.
Am I happy to have made the change? Yes. Am I as comfortable at the limit in the car? Not yet. Are the maintenance costs much different? So far no.
12-28-2014, 12:43 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Agree that sometimes, you just need a change. I too have run Camaros, both LT1 and LS1 cars with lots of suspension work but stock motors for years. Even got the brake hop issue fixed and other than front wheel bearings, the maintenance was pretty minimal. OTOH, it got to the stage that I had "been there...done that".
3 years ago, got a C5Z, added the oil cooler and brake ducts, put in a few new hubs and haven't looked back. First year, had a lot of brake issues from the ECBM and bad wiring for ABS sensors which was really disconcerting. Since then I have been slowly gaining more confidence in the car (it drives VERY differently than my Camaro) and certainly out of the box, it is sig faster than an LS1 Camaro even though the Camaro with suspension work clearly handles better than a bone stock C5Z.
Am I happy to have made the change? Yes. Am I as comfortable at the limit in the car? Not yet. Are the maintenance costs much different? So far no.
3 years ago, got a C5Z, added the oil cooler and brake ducts, put in a few new hubs and haven't looked back. First year, had a lot of brake issues from the ECBM and bad wiring for ABS sensors which was really disconcerting. Since then I have been slowly gaining more confidence in the car (it drives VERY differently than my Camaro) and certainly out of the box, it is sig faster than an LS1 Camaro even though the Camaro with suspension work clearly handles better than a bone stock C5Z.
Am I happy to have made the change? Yes. Am I as comfortable at the limit in the car? Not yet. Are the maintenance costs much different? So far no.
I disagree on a well modded Fbody handling better than a stock C5 Z06.
I met a guy at Barber in a 2008 Z51 Vette, on 200 treadwear tires. All it had was a harness bar, Alignment, good seats, good front rotors and Carbotech AX6 pads.
We were tit for tat, I was on R comp BFG R1 tires. If we were on the same tire, he would kill me. He drives very well, I consider myself a better than average drive in the Camaro. My best at Barber is a 1:47.2 my first time on good tires there. NOLA best is a 1:59.
12-28-2014, 02:29 PM
#20
Pro
I found brake hop to be much worse with the LS1 car than the LT1 car.
My LS1 car had no traction control which means only 3 channel ABS. Put in a proportioning valve downstream of the ABS box and could dial out as much rear brake as I wanted i.e more rear bias in the wet and less in the dry. Even less with better tires. I would run Hawk Ht-10 or 14 up front and HPS or + in the rear. Koni SAs set pretty soft in the rear and about 3/4 stiff up front.The car would stand on it's nose (front spring rate about 600lb/in) but the dreaded hop virtually disappeared. I still haven't managed to get my C5Z to be as stable under heavy braking.
When I said "stock" C5Z, I really mean stock i.e. stock alignment. (Had to do that this past year with our local Time-Attack series due to rule changes that affected my car model specifically). Without alignment, and with a 275/295 stagger, I have found the car to understeer quite badly. There will be a lot of changes for next year but I will have to run in a faster class. OTOH, the C5Z totally stock puts down faster lap times than the Camaro ever did on fast tracks but not on slower tracks despite the obvious power/wgt advantages (and frankly I was driving the Camaro significantly better)
My LS1 car had no traction control which means only 3 channel ABS. Put in a proportioning valve downstream of the ABS box and could dial out as much rear brake as I wanted i.e more rear bias in the wet and less in the dry. Even less with better tires. I would run Hawk Ht-10 or 14 up front and HPS or + in the rear. Koni SAs set pretty soft in the rear and about 3/4 stiff up front.The car would stand on it's nose (front spring rate about 600lb/in) but the dreaded hop virtually disappeared. I still haven't managed to get my C5Z to be as stable under heavy braking.
When I said "stock" C5Z, I really mean stock i.e. stock alignment. (Had to do that this past year with our local Time-Attack series due to rule changes that affected my car model specifically). Without alignment, and with a 275/295 stagger, I have found the car to understeer quite badly. There will be a lot of changes for next year but I will have to run in a faster class. OTOH, the C5Z totally stock puts down faster lap times than the Camaro ever did on fast tracks but not on slower tracks despite the obvious power/wgt advantages (and frankly I was driving the Camaro significantly better)
Last edited by Soloontario; 12-28-2014 at 02:33 PM.