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I have been using a friend's trailer the last few years but I am planning to buy my own in the next couple of weeks...my question is axle weights. Most seem to have dual 3500lb axles, so 7000lb capacity. Now if I calculate the weight of the trailer (I'm guessing at least 2800lbs for an enclosed 20' steel frame) and the weight of either of my cars,without any spares/tools ( '69 C3 (guessing around 3200lbs) or my 2005 Nextel Cup Charger (3400lbs) I will be over the limit. Am I missing somehting here or are most people using the dual 5000lb axles?
Consider a 24' inside trailer. I assure you the extra room will be used. I have only had 5,000# axles and never had any issues other than flat foreign tires!
I have been using a friend's trailer the last few years but I am planning to buy my own in the next couple of weeks...my question is axle weights. Most seem to have dual 3500lb axles, so 7000lb capacity. Now if I calculate the weight of the trailer (I'm guessing at least 2800lbs for an enclosed 20' steel frame) and the weight of either of my cars,without any spares/tools ( '69 C3 (guessing around 3200lbs) or my 2005 Nextel Cup Charger (3400lbs) I will be over the limit. Am I missing somehting here or are most people using the dual 5000lb axles?
thanks
Nick
Your 2800# estimate is probably low. My 24' steel Haulmark is 4000#. You need the 5000# axles.
I have a 20' enclosed trailer that shows an empty weight of 2900 lbs and it has 2-3500lb axles. My '87 Corvette weighs about 3200 lbs wet so that's a gross weight (at that point) of about 6100 lbs. I don't carry a lot of tools and other cargo. No extra tire sets.
What I did do right after I bought the trailer was to swap the original bias-ply Load Range C tires for radial Load Range D tires. That does provide a bit more safety at least of reducing the chances of the tires getting too hot when on the road.
I would think that 24' trailers will have 5K axles along with brakes on both axles. The frames will be slightly bigger and something like a 225/80-15 Load Range D radial (some may have a 16" wheel too). Not sure what the cost may be but it's not a big deal to replace 3500 lb axles with 5000 lb versions. The track width should be the same and spring perch locations would be the same. The only concern may be the amount of space in the wheelwell for larger tires.
One thing to think about when selecting a trailer is what the tow vehicle can handle. For any gross loaded trailer weight above 8000 lbs I firmly believe a suitable 3/4 ton pickup is needed. It's a good idea to never tow more than 80-85% of the total trailer and cargo weight that the trick can tow according to the owner's manual.
I have a 20' enclosed trailer that shows an empty weight of 2900 lbs and it has 2-3500lb axles. My '87 Corvette weighs about 3200 lbs wet so that's a gross weight (at that point) of about 6100 lbs. I don't carry a lot of tools and other cargo. No extra tire sets.
What I did do right after I bought the trailer was to swap the original bias-ply Load Range C tires for radial Load Range D tires. That does provide a bit more safety at least of reducing the chances of the tires getting too hot when on the road.
I would think that 24' trailers will have 5K axles along with brakes on both axles. The frames will be slightly bigger and something like a 225/80-15 Load Range D radial (some may have a 16" wheel too). Not sure what the cost may be but it's not a big deal to replace 3500 lb axles with 5000 lb versions. The track width should be the same and spring perch locations would be the same. The only concern may be the amount of space in the wheelwell for larger tires.
One thing to think about when selecting a trailer is what the tow vehicle can handle. For any gross loaded trailer weight above 8000 lbs I firmly believe a suitable 3/4 ton pickup is needed. It's a good idea to never tow more than 80-85% of the total trailer and cargo weight that the trick can tow according to the owner's manual.
thanks for the reply, Im towing with a modded 2500HD Turbo Diesel GMC Sierra so don't think the 24' will be a problem.
3500lb axles are good for an open trailer, go with 5000lbs for an enclosed.
I have an older Hallmark trailer and it is 4700lbs empty! The Vette is only 2900lbs but I do carry a lot of tools and tires. I am close to 9000lbs when everything is loaded (and yes over time you'll stuff more and more things in your trailer).
The 2500HD does fine (gas version lacks a little bit of torque in hills but it always gets there!). Just make sure you have good brakes on both trailer axles. You can use load leveling bars if you are worried about stability but if your load is properly distributed, you won't need them (I don't use any).
3500lb axles on an enclosed are not because they are smart: it is because they are allowed and to hit a price point and draw you in. Some guys really only need those: they haul <2000lb race cars or a trailer full of ATVs etc.. not for folks hauling full size cars, sorry. 5000lb minimum axle rating.
You need to provide more details/pics/videos of that C3, that looks like FUN!!
I have been using a friend's trailer the last few years but I am planning to buy my own in the next couple of weeks...my question is axle weights. Most seem to have dual 3500lb axles, so 7000lb capacity. Now if I calculate the weight of the trailer (I'm guessing at least 2800lbs for an enclosed 20' steel frame) and the weight of either of my cars,without any spares/tools ( '69 C3 (guessing around 3200lbs) or my 2005 Nextel Cup Charger (3400lbs) I will be over the limit. Am I missing somehting here or are most people using the dual 5000lb axles?
thanks
Nick
ok, went with the 24' and 5000lb axles. Forum member will be bringing it up from Georgia for me in April!
I need to take a run to Harbor Freight in Danbury, get a 3500lb winch and decide what i will do for cabinet/tool storage.
I have a question about floor covering. I have found the common black and white vinyl tile I have seen gets lethal once you add a little bit of oil or coolant. as this is comming as bare 3/4 ply...I was thinking paint with the ant-slip in it? any thoughts on that?
I need to take a run to Harbor Freight in Danbury, get a 3500lb winch and decide what i will do for cabinet/tool storage.
I have a question about floor covering. I have found the common black and white vinyl tile I have seen gets lethal once you add a little bit of oil or coolant. as this is comming as bare 3/4 ply...I was thinking paint with the ant-slip in it? any thoughts on that?
cheers
Nick
I used two part epoxy floor paint with anti slip in it and it works great! I really like the look of the raised coin rubber mat, but it isn't cheep and it adds weight.
I need to take a run to Harbor Freight in Danbury, get a 3500lb winch and decide what i will do for cabinet/tool storage.
I have a question about floor covering. I have found the common black and white vinyl tile I have seen gets lethal once you add a little bit of oil or coolant. as this is comming as bare 3/4 ply...I was thinking paint with the ant-slip in it? any thoughts on that?
A 3500lbs winch won't cut it if you have any issue with the car that prevents it from rolling freely. Look at the winch specs in the manual (page 2), the 3500lb rating is a line pull with the whole cable extended. The rating drops down to 2000lbs when folded. The cables are really small and you'll be at the upper limit of what it can do.
After 2 years playing with that kind of winch, I finally upgraded for a 12000 lbs that I should have used in the first place. You can find them on eBay for cheaper, they are all made in China like HF stuff but with a different sticker. Cable is much bigger and you can pull stuff with much more safety.
For the flooring, I went with a 7.5′ × 20′ Diamond Deck Large Car Mat from http://garageflooringllc.com/ (they have bigger sizes but didn't need to have flooring under tire storage at the front of the trailer). For $278 shipped, it was the cheapest alternative, super easy to install as a one piece mat, no need to glue, absorbs irregularities, and the diamond pattern is pretty grippy even in case of fluid spillage.
This is the only pic I have, sorry for the darkness inside the trailer but you get the idea.
I used two part epoxy floor paint with anti slip in it and it works great! I really like the look of the raised coin rubber mat, but it isn't cheep and it adds weight.
Welcome to the trailer-it-out club! What Charley said; my 26ft enclosed came with the 3/4 in. plywood flooring, to which I added two coats of garage floor epoxy. Three seasons in and a blown engine and leaky transmission, and it cleans up easy every time. Really makes for a durable floor.
Originally Posted by lefrog
A 3500lbs winch won't cut it if you have any issue with the car that prevents it from rolling freely. Look at the winch specs in the manual (page 2), the 3500lb rating is a line pull with the whole cable extended. The rating drops down to 2000lbs when folded. The cables are really small and you'll be at the upper limit of what it can do.
After 2 years playing with that kind of winch, I finally upgraded for a 12000 lbs that I should have used in the first place. You can find them on eBay for cheaper, they are all made in China like HF stuff but with a different sticker. Cable is much bigger and you can pull stuff with much more safety.
Lefrog also hit upon a good thought; buy more winch than you think you need! I too went with the Harbor Freight special, 7000lb pull for my 3300lb car. When I seized the tranny, I had to literally drag the car into the trailer, which the winch was capable of doing. Had I gone with a 4500lb winch, this wouldn't have been possible.
Oh, and get the stabilizer bars for the hitch. You may think you've got the load level, and the truck is super tough, but when the idiot in the family van cuts you off, you'll be glad the stabilizer bars were there. Been there, done that.
Jamie
02-12-2015, 05:47 PM
Trailer and axle rating
