VetteDrmr

You can leave it in for DD use.

MarCorpsMustang

Thanks, neighbor! A couple of follow-on questions:
1. Can a reasonably skilled owner swap break pads in/out by himself, or does it need to go to the shop?
2. Can you please name the reliable alignment mechanic in Purcellville/Leesburg or nearby who can do C7 work?
3. Looks like my car doesn't have competitive drive mode or PTM. I believe that is standard on a Z51 but optional on the 2LT I have.
4. All forum friends, please excuse my ignorance, but what's a "nannie?"

Cheers!

VetteDrmr

A "nannie" is an electronic control system that can over-ride the driver's inputs. The easiest example is traction control, where the computer will reduce the throttle when it senses wheel-spin, regardless of what the driver is doing to the throttle pedal.

More subtle is dynamic handling, where the system sees the car getting into an oversteer or understeer condition and will apply the brakes on one corner of the car to bring the car back to eliminate the over/understeer. Sounds good, but it's killer on brakes and can intrude on what the driver is wanting to do.

Some of these system's parameters can be modified via your drive mode selector; your owner's manual can give you some idea, but the C7 forums will do a lot to tell you the details.

This isn't a complete list (I left out ABS, for example, as it's not normally considered a "nanny"), but gives you an idea.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

Poor-sha

1. Assuming it's a Z51 the pads are easy, no clue on a base C7. I did mine in the paddock. In fact bring a set with you and if you need to swap them I'm sure there will be folks to help. The biggest issue was making sure you had the right size punch to pop the retaining pins out.
2. Curry's in Leesburg is where I go when I can't do it myself.
3. Ah, I'm guessing you didn't get the MR shock option and I believe that is required for PTM.
4. ABS/traction control/active handling. You'll still have that even without the MR shocks but it just isn't as adjustable.

0SpeedFreaksUSA

Absolutely! These fluids are good for a while on the track and the street. Just do a small bleed every once in a while if you really overheat the brakes and that nice pedal will come right back and be pretty consistent until the fluid ages too long and absorbs too much moisture.

-Matt M.

MarCorpsMustang

Correct; I did not get MR on this car. Thanks for the tip on Curry's and the explanation of nannies.

MarCorpsMustang

Poor-sha: Can Curry's do other Corvette work, such as reliable oil changes, brake pads, etc? Do you know of a high-quality "speed shop" or other in the local area who specializes in Corvettes and/or can reliably service a C7?
Thanks!

Poor-sha

Yup. They're not really a speed shop but more a local shop that does good work and most of them are racers. My buddy uses them for pad and oil changes on his C7 Z51 (I do them myself).

Call over there and talk to Andrew, he's the manager who I first met at the track.

Also, come out to Summit Point with the Audi Club in a couple weeks. I'll have my C7Z there and the head instructor is picking his up this week and bringing it as well. His is an A8 Z07 and mine is an M7 Z06.

MarCorpsMustang

Thank you, sir.

MarCorpsMustang

Another question; this one on helmets. I see the minimum rating standard required for SCCA and/or Summit Point. But I can't figure out where to buy one, especially not knowing what size to get, or what type and manufacturer. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Hat_Trick_Hokie

Try OG Racing in Sterling, VA. Great shop with a knowledgeable staff. They have a ton of SA2010 helmets from various manufactures in stock. It's nice to try various fits/sized on before you buy.

Bill Dearborn

If they are within driving distance of you it is best to go there and try on several different sizes and brands. If they don't have a particular size or brand they can probably get it delivered within a few days so you can try it.

Helmets have to fit tight around the crown of the head, and the sides should force your cheeks inward so you feel like you will bite them if you close your jaw. The top of the helmet opening should fit tightly across the brow (just above the eyes). The chin strap needs to fit tight under the chin and toward the neck. When trying a helmet it should be somewhat hard to put on. Once on have somebody grab the front of the helmet and try to rotate the front upwards and off your head. Then repeat from the backside to see if the helmet rolls forward off your head. There have been numerous accidents where empty helmets with chin straps still fastened are sitting on the ground near a car that has been in a serious rollover incident.

I like the Impact Helmets. They are made Bill Simpson's new company since he is no longer associated with Simpson. OG doesn't sell those but they do sell a number of good brands. If you don't mind spending in the $1K to $3K range then look at Stilo helmets. I believe all of the Hendrick teams use them now. I know that Earnhardt Jr, Johnson and Gordon do. When you try on even their lowest cost helmet it practically spoils you. They have ear muffs inside to reduce outside noise, locations to place speakers inside the helmet so you can hear an intercom or crew chief radioing you and they are pretty light. http://stilo-usa.com/

Bill

MarCorpsMustang

Thank you, both. I'll head out there tomorrow. I visited their website and they have enough shapes, styles, options, and manufacturers that I can't discern applicable/appropriate from exorbitant/wrong class. I look forward to trying on a few and discussing with the employees there.

Poor-sha

+2 for OG. Try a bunch on and see what fits you best. The staff there will know what to look for as well.

Deuce Man

Just a couple thoughts.....if you are only going to the track to try things out, I wouldn't go to extreme right off the bat. I would use the factory allignment and change the oil and upgrade the brake fluid to a DOT 4. When I first started I just used Prestone DOT 4 fluid, it has a 510* dry boiling point, and you can get it anywhere (including Wally-world) for less than $4 for 12 oz. Buy 3 of those and you can easily bleed the full system. I doubt you will need more than that for your first time out. Just my $0.02. If you get really into the track, then start to consider the $20-$60 per quart brake fluids that all have dry boiling points of 590* or higher.

rfn026

Speaking if helmets - it's all about the fit. Here's an article I wrote about helmets last year.

Keep in mind that paying more money does not get you a better helmet. It might get you a lighter weight one - but not a better one.

Both the Snell and the FIA tests are Pass/Fail. There are no tests to prove one helmet is superior to another. I have a standing offer to retract this statement if any helmet manufacturer can produce results by a testing lab that demonstrates differently. So far no one has.

Just take the car and drive it. Do not spend money on any modifications. If you feel the need to spend money hire a driving coach. Right now the car is a lot faster than you are.

I guarantee you that John Heinracy or Ron Fellows can make your car go faster than you can. When you can match their lap times then you might consider an aftermarket part. Might.

Richard Newton

MarCorpsMustang

My thanks again for the continued good advice. No mods intended in the immediate timeframe. I'll use a higher-grade brake fluid, change the oil, and get a decent helmet. We'll take it from there after that.

blueekb

I'm out here near you guys in Round Hill.

Curry's is a good shop that I trust but man are they expensive. I've been using Mach V Motorsports in Sterling for alignments, tire swaps and yearly track inspections. Prices are much more reasonable. They are mostly a Subaru, Scion etc shop but will work on anything and are good people. They usually sponser one of the NASA events too so I like to give some back.


Ed Butler
C5Z06 NASA TT3

MarCorpsMustang

Well here's an interesting twist. I went to one of the local automotive maintenance shops (to remain nameless) that specializes in SCCA and Corvettes to make an appointment for an oil change and brake fluid replacement. I know these guys and they are highly credible (at least to me!) Their recommendation: with only 2,000 miles on the car, leave it completely stock for the first FATT outing. The car/engine is built to run hard, and an outing at FATT will provide an opportunity to identify whether the OEM oil, brake fluid, etc is sufficient. FATT does not put enough demand on the car or any components to require fluid changes at only 2,000 miles.

Thought? Comments?

Rx7Rob

I wouldn't go back to them!