Replace one hub?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Replace one hub?
A little advice from you folks????
I've got a bearing/hub going on my GS. Since the price is almost the same I was thinking of going with an SKF instead of OEM. Problem is, the brochure description of the SKF makes me think this hub is soooo good, so stiff, that it would unbalance the feel of the car.
My budget really doesn't allow for replacing all four right now.
Am I overthinking this?
I'm about a 7 on a scale of 10 as an HPDE driver (if that makes a difference).
Thanks in advance.
I've got a bearing/hub going on my GS. Since the price is almost the same I was thinking of going with an SKF instead of OEM. Problem is, the brochure description of the SKF makes me think this hub is soooo good, so stiff, that it would unbalance the feel of the car.
My budget really doesn't allow for replacing all four right now.
Am I overthinking this?
I'm about a 7 on a scale of 10 as an HPDE driver (if that makes a difference).
Thanks in advance.
#2
Race Director
A little advice from you folks????
I've got a bearing/hub going on my GS. Since the price is almost the same I was thinking of going with an SKF instead of OEM. Problem is, the brochure description of the SKF makes me think this hub is soooo good, so stiff, that it would unbalance the feel of the car.
My budget really doesn't allow for replacing all four right now.
Am I overthinking this?
I'm about a 7 on a scale of 10 as an HPDE driver (if that makes a difference).
Thanks in advance.
I've got a bearing/hub going on my GS. Since the price is almost the same I was thinking of going with an SKF instead of OEM. Problem is, the brochure description of the SKF makes me think this hub is soooo good, so stiff, that it would unbalance the feel of the car.
My budget really doesn't allow for replacing all four right now.
Am I overthinking this?
I'm about a 7 on a scale of 10 as an HPDE driver (if that makes a difference).
Thanks in advance.
They are not built to space shuttle tolerance no matter what the mfg/vendor might want you to believe.
I did exactly the same on my c5z, watch my video if you would like to see it with your own eyes.
#3
Pro
Yes you are over thinking, you won't feel and the car won't know the difference between an in spec oem and a new in spec skf.
They are not built to space shuttle tolerance no matter what the mfg/vendor might want you to believe.
I did exactly the same on my c5z, watch my video if you would like to see it with your own eyes.
They are not built to space shuttle tolerance no matter what the mfg/vendor might want you to believe.
I did exactly the same on my c5z, watch my video if you would like to see it with your own eyes.
#4
Drifting
A little advice from you folks????
I've got a bearing/hub going on my GS. Since the price is almost the same I was thinking of going with an SKF instead of OEM. Problem is, the brochure description of the SKF makes me think this hub is soooo good, so stiff, that it would unbalance the feel of the car.
My budget really doesn't allow for replacing all four right now.
Am I overthinking this?
I'm about a 7 on a scale of 10 as an HPDE driver (if that makes a difference).
Thanks in advance.
I've got a bearing/hub going on my GS. Since the price is almost the same I was thinking of going with an SKF instead of OEM. Problem is, the brochure description of the SKF makes me think this hub is soooo good, so stiff, that it would unbalance the feel of the car.
My budget really doesn't allow for replacing all four right now.
Am I overthinking this?
I'm about a 7 on a scale of 10 as an HPDE driver (if that makes a difference).
Thanks in advance.
FWIW, I had two OEM bearings go out within a couple of weeks and decided at that time to replace all four with the much better SKF bearings.
--Dan
#5
I run the skf race bearings on all 4 corners, and love them. we noticed a bit of an improvement in steering response and brake knock back, over stock but the big issue was we were killing a new stock bearing on the front in one weekend with 315 r6's and t1 bars... so if it was me I would put them on in pairs as $ allowed We have raced 2 years 16 events on SKF race bearings with no issues including a hard meeting with the wall at WGI I broke a tie rod but the bearing is still fine after 4 more events.
#7
The good SKF bearings are closer to twice the cost of OEM. I bought an AC Delco for $210 and the cheapest SKF I've seen is $380. Not that you can't get a better deal but make sure you know which SKF you're buying.
FWIW, I had two OEM bearings go out within a couple of weeks and decided at that time to replace all four with the much better SKF bearings.
--Dan
FWIW, I had two OEM bearings go out within a couple of weeks and decided at that time to replace all four with the much better SKF bearings.
--Dan
#8
Racer
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...BSeal%2BSKF&ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=vn71es0u6g35g9trhmvlfm4lq5
#9
Safety Car
Holy moly - $305!
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...BSeal%2BSKF&ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=vn71es0u6g35g9trhmvlfm4lq5
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...BSeal%2BSKF&ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=vn71es0u6g35g9trhmvlfm4lq5
Phonix has them for up to 2008 for $350
the wheel sensors changed in 2009 so the fronts may be different
I know the rears are (more expensive and don't fit)
That ts 2008 and earlyr rears won't work on 2009 & up
#10
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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A little advice from you folks????
I've got a bearing/hub going on my GS. Since the price is almost the same I was thinking of going with an SKF instead of OEM. Problem is, the brochure description of the SKF makes me think this hub is soooo good, so stiff, that it would unbalance the feel of the car.
My budget really doesn't allow for replacing all four right now.
Am I overthinking this?
I'm about a 7 on a scale of 10 as an HPDE driver (if that makes a difference).
Thanks in advance.
I've got a bearing/hub going on my GS. Since the price is almost the same I was thinking of going with an SKF instead of OEM. Problem is, the brochure description of the SKF makes me think this hub is soooo good, so stiff, that it would unbalance the feel of the car.
My budget really doesn't allow for replacing all four right now.
Am I overthinking this?
I'm about a 7 on a scale of 10 as an HPDE driver (if that makes a difference).
Thanks in advance.
They also cover the tie rod ends, power steering issues, master cylinders and other things that tend to go bad more often when doing track duty. Saves a lot of skinned knuckles and over time saves money.
Bill
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the input.
My B2b was 3yr and the drivetrain warranty doesn't cover the hubs apparently.
According to Cultrag my car has the FE5 suspension (like the Z06) so the hub is $397 from them.!!! The SKF looks to be only $360 so it seems like that makes more sense.
I've got a good friend to help with the wrench so if I can do this one at a time I will. That'll save me enough to through in another track weekend before the next hub.....
Thanks again all.
My B2b was 3yr and the drivetrain warranty doesn't cover the hubs apparently.
According to Cultrag my car has the FE5 suspension (like the Z06) so the hub is $397 from them.!!! The SKF looks to be only $360 so it seems like that makes more sense.
I've got a good friend to help with the wrench so if I can do this one at a time I will. That'll save me enough to through in another track weekend before the next hub.....
Thanks again all.
#12
Race Director
Thanks for all the input.
My B2b was 3yr and the drivetrain warranty doesn't cover the hubs apparently.
According to Cultrag my car has the FE5 suspension (like the Z06) so the hub is $397 from them.!!! The SKF looks to be only $360 so it seems like that makes more sense.
I've got a good friend to help with the wrench so if I can do this one at a time I will. That'll save me enough to through in another track weekend before the next hub.....
Thanks again all.
My B2b was 3yr and the drivetrain warranty doesn't cover the hubs apparently.
According to Cultrag my car has the FE5 suspension (like the Z06) so the hub is $397 from them.!!! The SKF looks to be only $360 so it seems like that makes more sense.
I've got a good friend to help with the wrench so if I can do this one at a time I will. That'll save me enough to through in another track weekend before the next hub.....
Thanks again all.
The standard should cost 250 ish the race about 350 give/take.
For 360 make sure you are getting the race, if they don't know find a vendor who knows the difference.
I missed the c6 GS part, my bad.
Follow what Anthony said he's the man, not sure why the price would spike up that high from c5 regular to c6 regular unless you are buying from a dealer at retail.
Last edited by froggy47; 03-05-2015 at 05:10 PM.
#13
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
If you have a GS car then you can't run the SKF Race bearing.
Quick break down.
1997-2008 Corvette's use one bearing, 2009-2013 cars use a different. They physically are the same size, just a different wheel speed sensor inside.
SKF does make a race style bearing for the 2009-2013 cars and it is OEM stock for the C6 ZR1. Since that is a OEM part, you have to get that through the dealer...or anyone selling OEM GM parts. I do believe however on the rear bearings the Z06/ZR1 cars use a larger half shaft so that is different for the base cars. GS should use the Z06/ZR1 size if memory serves correctly.
If you want to do just one, for a street car I don't think it would matter much. For track cars we generally do them in pairs unless it was an accident causing the replacement as we do them based on track time on the bearings.
Quick break down.
1997-2008 Corvette's use one bearing, 2009-2013 cars use a different. They physically are the same size, just a different wheel speed sensor inside.
SKF does make a race style bearing for the 2009-2013 cars and it is OEM stock for the C6 ZR1. Since that is a OEM part, you have to get that through the dealer...or anyone selling OEM GM parts. I do believe however on the rear bearings the Z06/ZR1 cars use a larger half shaft so that is different for the base cars. GS should use the Z06/ZR1 size if memory serves correctly.
If you want to do just one, for a street car I don't think it would matter much. For track cars we generally do them in pairs unless it was an accident causing the replacement as we do them based on track time on the bearings.
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
My local wrench friend also recommended Timken. Guess I'll do more research. $200 is way better than $360 and would prob get me to do both sides at once. I can't find an SKF listing other than the $360 one.
#15
Drifting
#17
Ut oh, What to do? I bought a set of A6 Hoosiers on zo6 rear wheels 315s off a friends T2 race car. They feel great on the car, but sounds like I should buy the SKF bearings and at least carry one each as a spare? Went to the above link at Rock Auto, can't find the SKF--is that where they are cheapest? Been running PSII's now afraid to put the Hoosiers on...unexpected big expense!
#18
Race Director
Ut oh, What to do? I bought a set of A6 Hoosiers on zo6 rear wheels 315s off a friends T2 race car. They feel great on the car, but sounds like I should buy the SKF bearings and at least carry one each as a spare? Went to the above link at Rock Auto, can't find the SKF--is that where they are cheapest? Been running PSII's now afraid to put the Hoosiers on...unexpected big expense!