Supercharged111

My car (CMC Camaro) has a system, but only 1 nozzle aimed at me. I need to add one under the hood, but don't know the best place to get the stuff. I found a Safecraft 54-1416 3 way nozzle and a 10 foot coil of line on Summit, but I'm thinking generic line and hardware is probably a smarter way to do it. That Safecraft nozzle looks the same as the one in my car. Should I maybe have a 2 way pointed at me so it takes longer to suffocate as I attempt to egress an engulfed car? Change over and do 2 nozzles under the hood, one aimed at each manifold? I'm also unsure of the threads on that Safecraft nozzle, if they're AN or what. Install should be quick and easy, it's just a matter of deciding what to do, what parts to do it, and where to get them. I figure there's got to be some people on here with *ahem* first hand experience, which is better than what I have. I'll have to verify exactly what bottle I have when I get home. I just know it's white and probably a 5#er with cable pull.

fatbillybob

Ees is best because it is user serviceable in the pits with cheap afff foam recharge kit. For 10lbs I think 3 nozzles max eventhough instructions say more. If you kill fire elsewhere you don't need nozzles on you. In a vette with 1ten pound bottle i would do 2 on each side engine 1 on driver. If running 2 descrete system 5lbs and 10. I would do 2 for driver 5lbs and 2 engine 2 fuel with the 10lbs bottle. Also run an electric kill switch and that kills many electric fires and get rid of all orphan wires for old street systems like door locks etc that can spark and catch fire.

Supercharged111

So with my 5# bottle, I need to keep it at 2 nozzles max. I wish they weren't so damned expensive, I want a bigger bottle not only for more fire protection, but also for more legal ballast behind the main hoop. What about the nozzles? Seems flow could be restricted if one could choose a 2 way instead of a 3 way? Maybe a 3 way for wide coverage under the hood and a 2 way for a more concentrated blast at the driver's lower half?

Nowanker

NASA rules say min 5lb system with 2 nozzles, 1 in engine compartment, 1 for driver.
2 nozzles are recommended for 5lb system. Google 'race car supplies' or something like that. There are about a million retailers out there. Probably can't mention any by name here...

ratt_finkel

I'm using a 5 liter 6 nozzle system from ESS in my Pikes Peak car.

Bill32

A lot of systems come with 2 nozzles for the 5# and 3 with the 10# bottles.

There's not much difference between a 2 way and a 3 way nozzle as far as how much coverage you get.

I install the FireBottle systems on the cars I build. www.firebottleracing.com

A 2 way between the drivers legs (steering column) and 2 in the engine compartment.

While the regs state 5 lbs. min., the bottle empties very fast, I'm much more comfortable with a 10#.

IF your hard line in the engine bay is tubing (steel or alum), adding another nozzle is easy. The tubing connectors you get from the fire system suppliers are the same ones they sell at Home Depot, brass crimp fittings with a ferrule.
You just cut the tubing (same cutter you use for copper water pipe), install a tee and run your second line. You will need an adapter from the tubing to the nozzle but they are usually tubing to pipe thread (depends on the nozzle).

I use aluminum tubing, it's easy to bend.

If you download the firebottle catalog under "customer services" you can zoom in on the parts and look at them.

Pic: 2 nozzles , tubing, tee (1961 Lotus vintage open wheel car).

Supercharged111

A brass compression tee, nice. I was thinking 2 way for myself just under the dash pointed at my waist. I wonder if Lowe's has aluminum tubing too, it's just 1/4"/-4AN tubing. If they do, I can just rent the double flare tool from OReilly's and go to town. I'm more concerned with making the remaining repairs that affect my dyno numbers this coming Saturday, but as soon as that's done the thing needs to pass tech and I don't want to be caught without the parts to do it. This one's slipped off my radar the last couple days.

rfn026

Here's an article I wrote about a year ago.

Richard Newton

Bill32

No flare tool required, the fittings have a ferrule that goes over the tubing then, the cap. The cap compresses the ferrule on the tubing when tightened. It will clamp tight enough that the only way to remove the ferrule is to cut it off (so make sure you have the nozzles, tees, etc. pointing where you want them before tightening the fittings).

You won't find alum tubing at Lowe's, IIRC, a roll from FireBottle is $11.