rotate rear tires at this point yes or no?
#1
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Thread Starter
rotate rear tires at this point yes or no?
I have recently noticed significant camber related wear on my rears. Im not looking to reduce wear, but just advice on rotating them at this point - the insides are more worn than the outsides, and it seems the grip has fallen off on the tires (Bridgestone RE-11).
Would it be a good idea to rotate them and get the thinner amount of remaining tread to the outsides and the thicker amount of remaining tread faced inward? My concerns regarding rotating the tires are 1. if the remaining tread in the thinner section is of harder rubber and 2. the potential effect on water evacuation if the thinner tread is facing outward.
Thanks!
Would it be a good idea to rotate them and get the thinner amount of remaining tread to the outsides and the thicker amount of remaining tread faced inward? My concerns regarding rotating the tires are 1. if the remaining tread in the thinner section is of harder rubber and 2. the potential effect on water evacuation if the thinner tread is facing outward.
Thanks!
#2
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I don't see any disadvantage to flipping the tires. I do it on front tires all of the time.
Bill
Bill
#5
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Thread Starter
#6
You can rotate them from side to side but that doesn't change which part of the tire is wearing more. The inside of the tire is still the inside regardless of which side of the car you put them on. To make the inside tread go on the outside you must flip them which is not advisable on asymmetric tires.
#7
Former Vendor
Just to be clear- are you talking about rotating or pulling the tires off the wheels to flip them? RE-11 are asymmetrical but I have never had an issue flipping them and running them the "wrong" way. It's not ideal but if you're just using them for an casual track day/practice then it doesn't really matter.
Depending on how uneven the wear is and how much life is left in the tire I will also use tire pressure as a band-aid to save the cost of flipping the tires. For example if the tires are almost corded on the inside and I want to squeeze a few more practice sessions out of them then I will dump the pressures to get the middle and outsides of the tires to take the brunt of the wear. Conversely, if the outsides wore faster then I would up the pressures by a significant amount (I shoot for mid to high 40s hot if they are really bad… like on track driven cars with street alignments). Just be aware that you will have a lot less grip when running such high pressures.
Again this isn't "ideal" and I wouldn't do this if it were a competitive event, but then again I have multiple sets of wheels/tires and wouldn't show up to a completive event on tires that were about to cord
-Matt M.
Depending on how uneven the wear is and how much life is left in the tire I will also use tire pressure as a band-aid to save the cost of flipping the tires. For example if the tires are almost corded on the inside and I want to squeeze a few more practice sessions out of them then I will dump the pressures to get the middle and outsides of the tires to take the brunt of the wear. Conversely, if the outsides wore faster then I would up the pressures by a significant amount (I shoot for mid to high 40s hot if they are really bad… like on track driven cars with street alignments). Just be aware that you will have a lot less grip when running such high pressures.
Again this isn't "ideal" and I wouldn't do this if it were a competitive event, but then again I have multiple sets of wheels/tires and wouldn't show up to a completive event on tires that were about to cord
-Matt M.
Last edited by SpeedFreaksUSA; 04-09-2015 at 07:31 PM.
#8
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Thread Starter
Ill blame the lack of sleep
Just to be clear- are you talking about rotating or pulling the tires off the wheels to flip them? RE-11 are asymmetrical but I have never had an issue flipping them and running them the "wrong" way. It's not ideal but if you're just using them for an casual track day/practice then it doesn't really matter.
Depending on how uneven the wear is and how much life is left in the tire I will also use tire pressure as a band-aid to save the cost of flipping the tires. For example if the tires are almost corded on the inside and I want to squeeze a few more practice sessions out of them then I will dump the pressures to get the middle and outsides of the tires to take the brunt of the wear. Conversely, if the outsides wore faster then I would up the pressures by a significant amount (I shoot for mid to high 40s hot if they are really bad… like on track driven cars with street alignments). Just be aware that you will have a lot less grip when running such high pressures.
Again this isn't "ideal" and I wouldn't do this if it were a competitive event, but then again I have multiple sets of wheels/tires and wouldn't show up to a completive event on tires that were about to cord
-Matt M.
Depending on how uneven the wear is and how much life is left in the tire I will also use tire pressure as a band-aid to save the cost of flipping the tires. For example if the tires are almost corded on the inside and I want to squeeze a few more practice sessions out of them then I will dump the pressures to get the middle and outsides of the tires to take the brunt of the wear. Conversely, if the outsides wore faster then I would up the pressures by a significant amount (I shoot for mid to high 40s hot if they are really bad… like on track driven cars with street alignments). Just be aware that you will have a lot less grip when running such high pressures.
Again this isn't "ideal" and I wouldn't do this if it were a competitive event, but then again I have multiple sets of wheels/tires and wouldn't show up to a completive event on tires that were about to cord
-Matt M.
the fronts are wearing pretty evenly; the rears are the ones that are looking uneven - Ill try going to 28 psi
Thanks!
#9
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Bill
#11
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rear toe is almost zero (.05)
front toe is 0 deg
I went with similar front and rear camber because I wanted to go with the factory setup (they recommend front and rear the same) since my suspension was set up like that (z06 front spring, base rear, zr1 front bar z06 rear).
Im going to be playing with a softer rear swaybar soon and may go to -2.4 or -2.6 camber up front, keep the rear at -1.8 deg camber, and maybe .20 or .25 deg rear toe in.
front toe is 0 deg
I went with similar front and rear camber because I wanted to go with the factory setup (they recommend front and rear the same) since my suspension was set up like that (z06 front spring, base rear, zr1 front bar z06 rear).
Im going to be playing with a softer rear swaybar soon and may go to -2.4 or -2.6 camber up front, keep the rear at -1.8 deg camber, and maybe .20 or .25 deg rear toe in.
#12
Just back your rear camber off closer to 1.0 before trying a different bar. That's what I run on my C5 and the wear is perfect on most tracks, but it still wears the inside more on some others. 1.8 is more than I've heard of anyone running for the rear, your tire wear is an indication that it's too much, as is your lacking rear grip.