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I couldn't see what the video was about but my fuel starvation issue was solved with fuel tank foam. You will have to remove your float on the sending unit but I have a dowell thatnI use to see how much fuel is in the tank. I can run as low as 6 gallon , for autox, without starvation. On track, can go less.
I hear it all the time about getting light weight racing seats. Over this past winter, the car went on a diet. I weighed everything. My seats, stock standard sport seats, weighl less than Kirkey Al seats. The only thing you need to do is get a set of manual seat slider tracks and you will be as light as any seat, unless you want to spend $1,500 per seat.
I hear it all the time about getting light weight racing seats. Over this past winter, the car went on a diet. I weighed everything. My seats, stock standard sport seats, weighl less than Kirkey Al seats. The only thing you need to do is get a set of manual seat slider tracks and you will be as light as any seat, unless you want to spend $1,500 per seat.
We are trying to make him a better driver. The racing seat upgrade has nothing to do with weight. If racing seats added 200# I would still tell him to get them. Not really sure where you get $1500 per seat.
Jifx, I would highly suggest not going the route you are thinking. Trying to put a harness on a stock seat is VERY dangerous! Without a way to keep the belts in the correct place on your shoulders there is a very good chance for a snapped back in the event of a crash. Imagine what happens when the outside of your shoulders are held back and you were to hit a concrete wall at 100mph....or worse it slips off one shoulder and grabs in your elbow.
I went through the same thing as you. I even tried the belt on stock seats cutting an sewing a hole in the bottom. Don't do it. It never works. I've seen seats of corbeau go for $400 (yes sets of two). Keep the 3 point harness for now and go to a couple track days. There is usually someone selling a seat or two. I got my omp for $400 shipped and my second knock off copy for $200 shipped. If I hadn't just blown my engine and in financial mess because of it I would sell you my two knock off copies for $300 for both so I could buy a nice omp for my passenger.
Getting a nice comfortable seat is worth any amount of HP upgrades you can add. Just trust me! I've been you a couple of years ago! Almost identical car, identical thought process, identical sports cat club! I've learned a ton and spent more than I should but am in a good spot now I feel. I hate to keep coming back and shoving my opinion down your throat but I doubt there is another person who can identify with your troubles like I can.
I appreciate your concerns. But I have thought of those issues. And I agree about the wrecking dangers,but... The next 3 events I'm going to be making are autoX events and I will definitely have race seats before my next track day on the road course.
Here's an article I did on seats last year. You want to try out a seat before you but one. That's not always easy. You want a very tight fit. Mine is actually uncomfortable on the grid. Once I get going it's great.
Keep in mind that Dale Ernhardt died from having is seat belts improperly installed. You have to take all of this very seriously.
BTW - $1500 for a seat is nothing.
The last time I checked this seat was around $45,000.
I'll take 2 and put them in my GTR when I win the lottery.
The next step for me is SS brake lines
Then seats
Then in Sept I'll be pulling motor and all the anything else that don't have any business on a track.
We are trying to make him a better driver. The racing seat upgrade has nothing to do with weight. If racing seats added 200# I would still tell him to get them. Not really sure where you get $1500 per seat.
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I thought the thread was C4 Track car build? Until you mentioned it, I don't think anyone mentioned "the driver". Safety aside, weight has everything to do with racing. The lighter the car the quicker the acceleration, the quicker the braking, the better the handling. In consideration for any car that is going to compete in motorsports, the car needs to be as light as the rules will allow and maintain safety.
OK guys I got a 3k budget for the next shopping spree. Make me a list to look into.
Seats being first priority
I'm 6'-1" 210 with a 34"waste if anyone can provide a fitting seat.
OK guys I got a 3k budget for the next shopping spree. Make me a list to look into.
Seats being first priority
I'm 6'-1" 210 with a 34"waste if anyone can provide a fitting seat.
For a good quality, safe road race seat at a good value it is hard to beat the standard Kirkey road race containment seat at about 500 with cover.
Kinda wide at the shoulders, might cause fitment issues in a C4, not sure.
The Kirkey intermediate road race at about 450 with cover is also an option. Has the shoulder supports, but no containment top.
In my new tube frame C3 build I am going to just use the Kirkey short track late model seat at about 269 shipped. My C3 doors will be pinned, so I will be going through the window. The containment top on some take up too much entry space.
You will likely need a 16" or 17" wide seat.
There are some good values on used nascar cup seats, but they are often in midget sizes.
There was a nice set of used Kirkey seats in the AUTOX/RoadRace classifieds. They came out of a C4. I think Shrek has them for sale.
They were sold, but for reference to help with finding seats that fit; they were the Kirkey RoadRace seats model# 47900. Also, if you look in the c4 generically discussion sticks under c4 weights, there is a list of seats and the weights of them.
I couldn't see what the video was about but my fuel starvation issue was solved with fuel tank foam. You will have to remove your float on the sending unit but I have a dowell thatnI use to see how much fuel is in the tank. I can run as low as 6 gallon , for autox, without starvation. On track, can go less.
I hear it all the time about getting light weight racing seats. Over this past winter, the car went on a diet. I weighed everything. My seats, stock standard sport seats, weighl less than Kirkey Al seats. The only thing you need to do is get a set of manual seat slider tracks and you will be as light as any seat, unless you want to spend $1,500 per seat.
Will the manual sliders lower the height of the seat ? (could use more headroom )
Will the manual sliders lower the height of the seat ? (could use more headroom )
The seats set pretty low. I have never had head room clearance issues but I'm only 5'11. I did have a racing friend run my car once recently and he is @ 6'3 and he didn't mention any clearance issue.
Got my seat installed today
Along with 5 point harnesses and removed all the interior from the dash back.
Got more engine stuff headed this way
Also got ss brake lines that I'll install before next track day.
Will be pulling motor soon to start the overall.
Anyone have a nice std set of bearings to suggest to look into? Just incase bottom end looks like it has some ware?
Well progress is being made
Still have parts coming in as I continue to Bush back the engine build date. Lol
But did manage to get a good seat and bolt it in along with 5point harnesses, still need to install the passenger seat tho.
Fully gutted the interior 100% even removed all the door & radio wiring from the factor harness . Fixing to go with new Gauges thru out (glowshift, electric Gauges we are a dealer)
And I'm actually looking at upgrading the ecu to something more responsive ( looking at the megasquirt 2/3) seeing how the small block uses bank injection I can get away with the 2 but does anyone have any feed back on the units?
And I'm wondering if I can pull my signals from the stock wiring to each of my new Gauges?
I'm going to suggest that we've all gone this way. The wrong way.
There is absolutely no point in going fast at a track day. There is no one to beat. Track days aren't like autocross where you can actually win.
The purpose of an HPDE is to make you a better driver. So far none of us have even touched on that.
Will gutting the interior make you a better driver? It didn't help me at all. The lack of windows certainly didn't improve my driving.
Maybe the seat helped but it wasn't because the car was lighter. A good race seat connects you with the car. I think that helped.
We all spend money on our cars when we should be spending money on data acquisition and coaching. A good driving coach will help you more than any modification to the car.
HPDEs are about the driver. Or, they should be.
Somehow people get this all turned around and think it's about being the fastest person on the track. That's not going to happen - especially if you have a C4 Corvette. The Porsche Cup cars (with sequential gearboxes) will have you checking your tach to see if the engine is actually running as you go into a corner.
Don't even try to go into a corner with a well driven Ferrari Challenge car. They will out brake you by so much you'll be left with your mouth hanging open.
Focus on your driving skills and stop messing with the car. Make the car reliable and have fun. A track day is all about the amount of time you're on the track and how much fun you're having while you destroy a perfectly good set of tires.
Richard, no offence, but who said I'm only doing hpde? Yes I'm starting there only cause I have to... But I'm going for time trial and some of the special races that our group does. What part of racing Are you not understanding? The car for now is a project.. I would rather learn how to drive a racecar instead a corvette...
Now back to my questions that I asked
Well this thread has been dead for a while .lol
Think I have the car where I want it until I get closer to comp school . engine is built and in /dyno runs have been made
#s are in and I'm pleased with the results
3010 lbs full of fuel and driver
388 hp@5800 (above 350 from 4500-6500)
385 tq @4500 (above 350 from 3200-5500)
Still on stock ecu and tune... Runs rich but I'm ok with that for Now
Got 2 autoX events left this season
06-21-2015, 12:45 AM
