NVR2L8

I have been using two piece rotors on my cars for several years, including DBA and AFX Performance. Each time I have installed new rings, I also installed new bolts, with Locktite added.

I upgraded this year to Wilwood front brakes, and the new rings do not come with a new bolt set.

My question: Do you install new bolts every time you change rings? If not, how often?

Thanks

ErnieN85

every other time

UstaB-GS549

Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

I suspect your fasteners may be above this temperature. If not why would you replace them?

SouthernSon

Tom, I have a set that need assembling for the first time in the next couple of days. I am out of town ATTM. I'll see if the directions shed light on torqueing the bolts more than once. Do you have Carl Bush's number?

Bill Dearborn

Interesting all of my original kits came with the bolts included. I spent a lot of time safety wiring them and when I went to change the rings found out they only recommend safety wire Vs require when I made my first purchase. I took the bolts that came with my original set of rotors/hats to Fastenal. They had something equivalent and I ordered a bunch for about the same price you pay for the Wilwood parts. Makes the decision whether to replace or not a lot simpler.

Bill

edge04

sorry, not sure I understand. Are you saying that safety wire is required or not? Thanks

Bill Dearborn

When I first purchased the kits the instructions said to safety wire the bolts. Now the new instructions tell you use Loctite and add a note suggesting safety wiring the bolts.

This is how it is worded now: "alternating sequence, apply red Loctite® 271 to the threads and torque bolts to 140 in-lb. For an added measure of security, the bolts may be safety wired using standard 0.032 inch diameter stainless steel safety wire as shown in Figure 3."

This is how the instructions were worded 3 years ago: "alternating sequence, apply red Loctite® 271 to the threads and torque bolts to 140 in-lb. Safety wire the bolts using standard 0.032 inch diameter stainless steel safety wire as shown in Figure 3."

That is a big difference in the effort to assemble the rings to the hats.

Bill

blkbrd69

AN bolts with J nuts will hold good run on torques for many removal cycles.

Run on torque is normally the indicator of when to replace self locking nuts and bolts in aerospace applications.

Normally Locktite really isn't called out for in sustained high heat applications.

ZedO6

Normal brake temps are well outside of the operating range of red Loctite 271. Seems like the only time the Loctite will add thread locking is when you are trying to take the rotors and hats apart!

RX-Ben

Use nordlocks, not loctite.

ZedO6

Is there an issue with hat bolts backing out when properly torqued and rechecked on a regular basis? I was told by one vendor to use anti-seize on the hat bolts to keep them from galling the aluminum hats. Lots of conflicting info....

0Todd TCE

The reason you're seeing some of this is simply the grief associated with requiring safety wire. For years that was the default. But of course 97% of buyers didn't have safety wire, let alone pliers. And had never done it. I've had folks ask why the wire was not supplied. (as if they'd know what to do with it- if you have pliers; you have wire!)

Far easier to say "red loctite" and know that they will not come out.

Down side of course is that you have to heat them well to get them to to come out without either breaking the bolt or pulling the threads from the hat. All bad options.

Reality...I think I'd dry fit them, torque them and forget the wire and loctite if I expect to service them again. Or for the wire challenged run one feed through all for visual inspection.

Then again, if you want to sell more hats...! lol

I've used and sold the SS parts for a long time. They are nice and act as a good thermal barrier to the hat. But in reality a socket head cap screw (allen head) seems to work equally well for durability.

I can see the value of anti-seize in fact. But you best know to adjust the torque value and expect to do inspections. I use that stuff on nearly anything on a race car I know I'll take apart in short order. (being mainly an alum car too) but most folks don't really own this type of car- it's a street car on the track that when it gets home they forget about such things.

Your mileage may vary

Poor-sha

I know Brembo recommends new hardware every time you change the rings. The screws come with some sort of thread locker already applied that I believe is Locktite 262. Here are some good instructions.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/Brembo/Rotor_Replacement.htm

Han Solo

I had a box full of 5/16-24 grade 8 socket head cap screws I got from somewhere and bought a bag of these METAL LOCKNUT, GRADE C, 5/16-24, PK100 for $2 a bag from Grainger.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Check with the manufacturer of the brakes.

Some will include new hardware with the rotors, some do not. I will say that you should always change the hardware when you do them. Depending on the setup, some have to be safety wired, some have to be locktited, some just use an aircraft lock nut and do not need any of the above.

klodkrawler05

From Wilwood: http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechRotorTip.aspx
Always replace rotor mounting bolts and lockwire whenever replacing rotors, taking care to inspect mounting hats or hubs for signs of abuse.

fwiw I'm also running wilwood rotors, I just recently replaced the rings for the first time. I wasn't aware of changing the hardware every time until after I began installing the new discs and the first bolt I tried to torque to spec snapped. After that happened I found the above article. Since I was supposed to be at the track 2 days later I wound up just picking up grade 8 hardware from the local Ace and drilled my own lockwire holes in the heads of the bolts.

SinisterC6

Question; how do you center the Ring on the hat? My instructions call for a tolerance of 0.05mm which has been impossible to achieve

StreetSpeed

They will self center if they're machined properly. Only way they would be off center is if the bolt pattern was machined off center, which there is nothing you can do about. I've seen some pretty shoddy manufacturing on some of these kits, which is why I'll be offering my own shortly.

SinisterC6

Self center before driving?

I put the bolts in loosely and theres a 0.5cm play in all directions

I wonder if i have the Wrong bolts

StreetSpeed

I hope you mean .5mm? .5cm is almost .200'' of clearance. Your hats would be rattling all over your rotors. Even .5mm (.020'') would be way too much IMO. Ours all are positioned better than +-.05mm (+-.002''). Maybe you're forgetting to install the bushings/bobbins in your two piece floating rotors? That would do it.