What does it really cost to track a vette?
07-01-2015, 04:10 PM
#22
Racer
Cross-driver cost comparison is tough... it's a fact of life that some people are harder on equipment than others. Some people also just seem to have bad luck. I don't know that there's a rhyme or reason to it either (the bad luck folks). Maybe you're a little tougher than average on the car and have hit on a bad run of freshening the car up? I dunno but it's got to be disheartening to start adding up the costs... 
FWIW, something that I've observed through the years is that "intermediate" drivers (for lack of a better term) tend to be toughest on cars. They're past the novice level where they don't lean too hard on equipment but they're not to the "advanced" level where they're comfortable rolling speed through the corner. The result of this is that they're really, really hard on brakes, engines, and transmissions. Why? Because they try to make up time going extra deep/hard into braking zones, rev the **** out of the engine, and on super fast shifts. Keeping in mind that I've met folks who've been racing/autocrossing/DE'ing for 10-15 years that are still in what I'd characterize as the "intermediate" stage, have you had a truly fast/experienced driver ride with you to see if there's anything you can do to be easier on the equipment while not giving up your goal of driving at 100%?
PS
I know that I don't know you so maybe you're awesome on equipment; just figured that it was worth mentioning.
FWIW, something that I've observed through the years is that "intermediate" drivers (for lack of a better term) tend to be toughest on cars. They're past the novice level where they don't lean too hard on equipment but they're not to the "advanced" level where they're comfortable rolling speed through the corner. The result of this is that they're really, really hard on brakes, engines, and transmissions. Why? Because they try to make up time going extra deep/hard into braking zones, rev the **** out of the engine, and on super fast shifts. Keeping in mind that I've met folks who've been racing/autocrossing/DE'ing for 10-15 years that are still in what I'd characterize as the "intermediate" stage, have you had a truly fast/experienced driver ride with you to see if there's anything you can do to be easier on the equipment while not giving up your goal of driving at 100%?
PS
I know that I don't know you so maybe you're awesome on equipment; just figured that it was worth mentioning.
07-01-2015, 04:21 PM
#23
Racer
After spending about $70K+ in upgrades on a 2006 C6Z, to race a club event like FARA or PBOC with 2-4hours enduro and 3-4 sprint races cost me about $5-6000/weekend.(with no Grid Girls:-))
If something major brakes - it's extra. But it's RACING...
If something major brakes - it's extra. But it's RACING...
07-01-2015, 04:49 PM
#24
Pro
Thread Starter
Cross-driver cost comparison is tough... it's a fact of life that some people are harder on equipment than others. Some people also just seem to have bad luck. I don't know that there's a rhyme or reason to it either (the bad luck folks). Maybe you're a little tougher than average on the car and have hit on a bad run of freshening the car up? I dunno but it's got to be disheartening to start adding up the costs...
FWIW, something that I've observed through the years is that "intermediate" drivers (for lack of a better term) tend to be toughest on cars. They're past the novice level where they don't lean too hard on equipment but they're not to the "advanced" level where they're comfortable rolling speed through the corner. The result of this is that they're really, really hard on brakes, engines, and transmissions. Why? Because they try to make up time going extra deep/hard into braking zones, rev the **** out of the engine, and on super fast shifts. Keeping in mind that I've met folks who've been racing/autocrossing/DE'ing for 10-15 years that are still in what I'd characterize as the "intermediate" stage, have you had a truly fast/experienced driver ride with you to see if there's anything you can do to be easier on the equipment while not giving up your goal of driving at 100%?
PS
I know that I don't know you so maybe you're awesome on equipment; just figured that it was worth mentioning.
FWIW, something that I've observed through the years is that "intermediate" drivers (for lack of a better term) tend to be toughest on cars. They're past the novice level where they don't lean too hard on equipment but they're not to the "advanced" level where they're comfortable rolling speed through the corner. The result of this is that they're really, really hard on brakes, engines, and transmissions. Why? Because they try to make up time going extra deep/hard into braking zones, rev the **** out of the engine, and on super fast shifts. Keeping in mind that I've met folks who've been racing/autocrossing/DE'ing for 10-15 years that are still in what I'd characterize as the "intermediate" stage, have you had a truly fast/experienced driver ride with you to see if there's anything you can do to be easier on the equipment while not giving up your goal of driving at 100%?
PS
I know that I don't know you so maybe you're awesome on equipment; just figured that it was worth mentioning.
I am intermediate, I am at a point now where i can see the end, and im sure its a little farther then i think it is, but i feel close to having found all the time, just not all in 1 lap, and just need to get smoother and more repedative. I catch myself trying to make up time in stupid ways, more than anything though i try to go easy on the car. I never shift hard as i owned subies with glass trannies for 10 years, so i just got out of the habbit, but i am too a point now that i can redline the car in 4th into 1 and 5 and it gets really tight to keep it in 3rd in places so there is deifnately some motor beatings there as i just tend to run it up to 6500 then just hold speed or slightly backoff for the 1-3 seconds till i hit 1 or 5 braking zones.
If i could find an instructor that drives a vette i would. I have taken people with me and all they say is that i can move up a class if i want. Not useful, if i wanted to move up, i would, lol. I have honestly never gotten useful feedback from an instructor outside of lines to try. I have never got feedback on my driving. Maybe i am just a lost cause, lol.
07-01-2015, 04:58 PM
#25
Pro
Thread Starter
Oh, when my trans was out last year, i did find that it had billet keys in the 1/2 syncro and new 1/2 syncros but not a new selector assembley so it was a **** patch job. I had it out cause the 3/4 key broke. So while i had it out i put in a new clutch rebuilt the tube yada yada $4500 spent on $11 syncro keys cause someone was dumb before me.
There is some real possiblity i got taken, and the car was beat to hell. If its just 1 more 6 k repair, i can weather it, i financially just can't do it yearly. Honestly its difficult for me to justify spending that much on anything. Its getting to a point that about half the money i don't save or invest is going in some way shape or form to track time or corvette support, and i have a morgage!
There is some real possiblity i got taken, and the car was beat to hell. If its just 1 more 6 k repair, i can weather it, i financially just can't do it yearly. Honestly its difficult for me to justify spending that much on anything. Its getting to a point that about half the money i don't save or invest is going in some way shape or form to track time or corvette support, and i have a morgage!
Last edited by Socko; 07-01-2015 at 05:03 PM.
07-01-2015, 05:03 PM
#26
Instructor
Oh, when my trans was out last year, i did find that it had billet keys in the 1/2 syncro and new 1/2 syncros but not a new selector assembley so it was a **** patch job. I had it out cause the 3/4 key broke. So while i had it out i put in a new clutch rebuilt the tube yada yada $4500 spent on $11 syncro keys cause someone was dumb before me.
There is some real possiblity i got taken, and the car was beat to hell. If its just 1 more 6 k repair, i can weather it, i financially just can't do it yearly.
There is some real possiblity i got taken, and the car was beat to hell. If its just 1 more 6 k repair, i can weather it, i financially just can't do it yearly.
07-01-2015, 05:13 PM
#27
Racer
I did the math once and only once. It came out to 5 to 6 dollars a minute per track session. So if you did four 30 minute sessions your track day would come out to 720 dollars including gas, cost of track time, consumables, and items that break. Does this math make sense or am I off? There are different situations for different people. I just did the math for myself and broke it down to the minute.
07-01-2015, 05:19 PM
#28
Pro
Thread Starter
I did the math once and only once. It came out to 5 to 6 dollars a minute per track session. So if you did four 30 minute sessions your track day would come out to 720 dollars including gas, cost of track time, consumables, and items that break. Does this math make sense or am I off? There are different situations for different people. I just did the math for myself and broke it down to the minute.
I have pretty much every dollar i have spent on the car in my spread sheet. mine is MUCH more then that lol
07-01-2015, 06:30 PM
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
corvette cost spreadsheet, its all there. lol sometimes i jsut paid for oil or some little nonsense it didn't get on here but anything serious is there.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
second sheet has track days
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
second sheet has track days
Last edited by Socko; 07-01-2015 at 06:32 PM.
07-01-2015, 08:14 PM
#30
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
Posts: 4,549
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My C5 Z06 was a great reliable track car. I ran it for 8 years - between 10 and 15 two day events a year totaling about 30K track miles. I never had a major equipment failure or malfunction. The key to reliability is to keep the engine and driveline stock and perform regular preventative maintenance. All of my mod money went into COOLING, brakes, suspension and safety. All the guys that were breaking had the heavily modified cars.
Costs are highly variable depending on what track and group you run with. My average weekend cost + of - $1200. That includes consumables like tires and brakes, gas, fluids, entry fees, meals, etc. I performed all my own work which saves a TON of money.
Cost to build the car to track spec is not included in the weekend amortized cost. I never totalled the costs of all the parts but would guestimate that it was close to $20K.
As one of the previous posters said, speed costs $ - how fast do you want to go? The best mod is the nut behind the wheel. Instruction and track time will make will make you faster quicker than any amount of extra horsepower.
Costs are highly variable depending on what track and group you run with. My average weekend cost + of - $1200. That includes consumables like tires and brakes, gas, fluids, entry fees, meals, etc. I performed all my own work which saves a TON of money.
Cost to build the car to track spec is not included in the weekend amortized cost. I never totalled the costs of all the parts but would guestimate that it was close to $20K.
As one of the previous posters said, speed costs $ - how fast do you want to go? The best mod is the nut behind the wheel. Instruction and track time will make will make you faster quicker than any amount of extra horsepower.
07-01-2015, 08:28 PM
#31
Drifting
By your statements, I must be slow. I have been tracking our 2003 Z06 since 2009 and it has been very dependable. Best track money I have ever spent. I guess there are some people in the world that are EXTREMELY slow since I have a multitude of podiums and wins regionally and nationally. Sorry to break it to all of you losers that finished behind me, but we all suck. My lap records were for naught...
35,000 miles on the car. Right at 10,000 track miles.
I DE'ed this car in 2009, TT'ed 2010-2012, and W2W 2013-2015
In all of that time, here is all that I have replaced as they broke:
- broke a key in the stock transmission (upgraded with a custom Tick build)
- wore out the stock wheels bearings (upgraded to SKF)
- melted a front brake caliper (upgraded to Wilwoods)
- broke a Pfadt front sway bar end (replaced with Pfadt)
- broke a valve spring (upgraded)
- melted a speed sensor (replaced OEM)
- leaking axle seal on the diff (replaced OEM)
- blew a radiator hose (put on two clamps)
- cut a fuel line (upgraded to SS)
- broke a tailpipe (found a welder that could play with Ti)
- blew a Pfadt coilover (upgraded to DA Penske)
- wore out the stock bushings (upgraded to sphericals)
That's about it.
35,000 miles on the car. Right at 10,000 track miles.
I DE'ed this car in 2009, TT'ed 2010-2012, and W2W 2013-2015
In all of that time, here is all that I have replaced as they broke:
- broke a key in the stock transmission (upgraded with a custom Tick build)
- wore out the stock wheels bearings (upgraded to SKF)
- melted a front brake caliper (upgraded to Wilwoods)
- broke a Pfadt front sway bar end (replaced with Pfadt)
- broke a valve spring (upgraded)
- melted a speed sensor (replaced OEM)
- leaking axle seal on the diff (replaced OEM)
- blew a radiator hose (put on two clamps)
- cut a fuel line (upgraded to SS)
- broke a tailpipe (found a welder that could play with Ti)
- blew a Pfadt coilover (upgraded to DA Penske)
- wore out the stock bushings (upgraded to sphericals)
That's about it.
07-01-2015, 09:00 PM
#32
Pro
Thread Starter
By your statements, I must be slow. I have been tracking our 2003 Z06 since 2009 and it has been very dependable. Best track money I have ever spent. I guess there are some people in the world that are EXTREMELY slow since I have a multitude of podiums and wins regionally and nationally. Sorry to break it to all of you losers that finished behind me, but we all suck. My lap records were for naught...
35,000 miles on the car. Right at 10,000 track miles.
I DE'ed this car in 2009, TT'ed 2010-2012, and W2W 2013-2015
In all of that time, here is all that I have replaced as they broke:
- broke a key in the stock transmission (upgraded with a custom Tick build)
- wore out the stock wheels bearings (upgraded to SKF)
- melted a front brake caliper (upgraded to Wilwoods)
- broke a Pfadt front sway bar end (replaced with Pfadt)
- broke a valve spring (upgraded)
- melted a speed sensor (replaced OEM)
- leaking axle seal on the diff (replaced OEM)
- blew a radiator hose (put on two clamps)
- cut a fuel line (upgraded to SS)
- broke a tailpipe (found a welder that could play with Ti)
- blew a Pfadt coilover (upgraded to DA Penske)
- wore out the stock bushings (upgraded to sphericals)
That's about it.
35,000 miles on the car. Right at 10,000 track miles.
I DE'ed this car in 2009, TT'ed 2010-2012, and W2W 2013-2015
In all of that time, here is all that I have replaced as they broke:
- broke a key in the stock transmission (upgraded with a custom Tick build)
- wore out the stock wheels bearings (upgraded to SKF)
- melted a front brake caliper (upgraded to Wilwoods)
- broke a Pfadt front sway bar end (replaced with Pfadt)
- broke a valve spring (upgraded)
- melted a speed sensor (replaced OEM)
- leaking axle seal on the diff (replaced OEM)
- blew a radiator hose (put on two clamps)
- cut a fuel line (upgraded to SS)
- broke a tailpipe (found a welder that could play with Ti)
- blew a Pfadt coilover (upgraded to DA Penske)
- wore out the stock bushings (upgraded to sphericals)
That's about it.
I guess its a matter of perspective, you think you havent broke anything, i think you broke your whole car lol. I mean ****, all i dont see there is a diff and thats $1650 and 1 day job.
my car has a few thousand track miles and 42k total so im only a little behind on the luck curve, lol.
07-01-2015, 09:41 PM
#33
The question is, did i hit a **** part of the failure curve, and if i put a motor in it, can it last 50+ trackdays with only maintenence items? Or do most people just drive slow or lie, and these cars don't last all that well at all?
I read numerous reports of people getting 50-75 track days before any major failures. Now having some experience, and meeting people like that at the track, its cause they are slow. I refuse to pussyfoot around on the track, its a max personal effort type deal for me. I love it, but if i cant afford it, i cant afford it. That is why i am trying to figure out if these costs will work out over the next 5+ years or if next year i will just have to replace the trans again, lol.
What mods are on the car?
I had 2 c5 frc's that I beat on at the track and street and it took me killing one with a mountain and another in a pond for them to have any major issue. I am now looking into a C5z due to all of the folks here doing so well with them. But, I am one of the slower folks out there, so maybe I will be lucky!
edit, to add.. I have about 30 tracksdays over 5 years.. and the cost to me is about $1k per weekend.
If you wanna feel worse and add up more cost, do One Lap of America in 2016!!
Last edited by bags142; 07-01-2015 at 09:45 PM.
07-01-2015, 09:43 PM
#34
Pro
Thread Starter
What mods are on the car?
I had 2 c5 frc's that I beat on at the track and street and it took me killing one with a mountain and another in a pond for them to have any major issue. I am now looking into a C5z due to all of the folks here doing so well with them. But, I am one of the slower folks out there, so maybe I will be lucky!
I had 2 c5 frc's that I beat on at the track and street and it took me killing one with a mountain and another in a pond for them to have any major issue. I am now looking into a C5z due to all of the folks here doing so well with them. But, I am one of the slower folks out there, so maybe I will be lucky!
07-01-2015, 09:53 PM
#35
lol why are you slow your car broke a bunch lol, i mean a broken valve spring is plainly luck that it wasnt a motor, and trans key is same thing i did.
I guess its a matter of perspective, you think you havent broke anything, i think you broke your whole car lol. I mean ****, all i dont see there is a diff and thats $1650 and 1 day job.
my car has a few thousand track miles and 42k total so im only a little behind on the luck curve, lol.
I guess its a matter of perspective, you think you havent broke anything, i think you broke your whole car lol. I mean ****, all i dont see there is a diff and thats $1650 and 1 day job.
my car has a few thousand track miles and 42k total so im only a little behind on the luck curve, lol.
And let me ask you this question, what do you consider a "consumable"?
For example... wheel bearings, rotors, tie rod ends, ALL fluids, track pads, and ball joints are some of what I consider "consumables".
07-01-2015, 09:55 PM
#36
Melting Slicks
My C5 Z06 was a great reliable track car. I ran it for 8 years - between 10 and 15 two day events a year totaling about 30K track miles. I never had a major equipment failure or malfunction. The key to reliability is to keep the engine and driveline stock and perform regular preventative maintenance. All of my mod money went into COOLING, brakes, suspension and safety. All the guys that were breaking had the heavily modified cars.
Costs are highly variable depending on what track and group you run with. My average weekend cost + of - $1200. That includes consumables like tires and brakes, gas, fluids, entry fees, meals, etc. I performed all my own work which saves a TON of money.
Cost to build the car to track spec is not included in the weekend amortized cost. I never totalled the costs of all the parts but would guestimate that it was close to $20K.
As one of the previous posters said, speed costs $ - how fast do you want to go? The best mod is the nut behind the wheel. Instruction and track time will make will make you faster quicker than any amount of extra horsepower.
Costs are highly variable depending on what track and group you run with. My average weekend cost + of - $1200. That includes consumables like tires and brakes, gas, fluids, entry fees, meals, etc. I performed all my own work which saves a TON of money.
Cost to build the car to track spec is not included in the weekend amortized cost. I never totalled the costs of all the parts but would guestimate that it was close to $20K.
As one of the previous posters said, speed costs $ - how fast do you want to go? The best mod is the nut behind the wheel. Instruction and track time will make will make you faster quicker than any amount of extra horsepower.
Oh and miatas aren't slow other than on the straights. Bring your C5Z out to CA and I'll show you. In fact, you will become a better driver if you spend time trying to turn fast laps in a miata.
07-01-2015, 09:58 PM
#37
Melting Slicks
Cross-driver cost comparison is tough... it's a fact of life that some people are harder on equipment than others. Some people also just seem to have bad luck. I don't know that there's a rhyme or reason to it either (the bad luck folks). Maybe you're a little tougher than average on the car and have hit on a bad run of freshening the car up? I dunno but it's got to be disheartening to start adding up the costs...
FWIW, something that I've observed through the years is that "intermediate" drivers (for lack of a better term) tend to be toughest on cars. They're past the novice level where they don't lean too hard on equipment but they're not to the "advanced" level where they're comfortable rolling speed through the corner. The result of this is that they're really, really hard on brakes, engines, and transmissions. Why? Because they try to make up time going extra deep/hard into braking zones, rev the **** out of the engine, and on super fast shifts. Keeping in mind that I've met folks who've been racing/autocrossing/DE'ing for 10-15 years that are still in what I'd characterize as the "intermediate" stage, have you had a truly fast/experienced driver ride with you to see if there's anything you can do to be easier on the equipment while not giving up your goal of driving at 100%?
PS
I know that I don't know you so maybe you're awesome on equipment; just figured that it was worth mentioning.
FWIW, something that I've observed through the years is that "intermediate" drivers (for lack of a better term) tend to be toughest on cars. They're past the novice level where they don't lean too hard on equipment but they're not to the "advanced" level where they're comfortable rolling speed through the corner. The result of this is that they're really, really hard on brakes, engines, and transmissions. Why? Because they try to make up time going extra deep/hard into braking zones, rev the **** out of the engine, and on super fast shifts. Keeping in mind that I've met folks who've been racing/autocrossing/DE'ing for 10-15 years that are still in what I'd characterize as the "intermediate" stage, have you had a truly fast/experienced driver ride with you to see if there's anything you can do to be easier on the equipment while not giving up your goal of driving at 100%?
PS
I know that I don't know you so maybe you're awesome on equipment; just figured that it was worth mentioning.
07-01-2015, 10:09 PM
#39
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
Posts: 13,915
Received 1,103 Likes
on
717 Posts
I have to agree. I must have put about 5 to 7K track miles on my C5Z before upgrading parts. I bought a good low mileage one and made sure it always had fresh fluids and allowed to come up to temperature before flogging it. Also, I rode with several professional drivers early on and saw how easy they were on the drive train, not beating it to death. It left a good impression on me. Of course, if the car was beat on, power shifted, drag raced and abused before you got it, then not much hope for longevity.
