What does it really cost to track a vette?
07-01-2015, 10:46 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
What does it really cost to track a vette?
Do any of you guys keep spreadsheets? I am wondering if i am really that far out of the norm, or possibly just bought a beat to **** car?
I run street tires. I change all fluids every year and oil and brake fluid after each event. In the last 12 months i have blown a trans, clutch was bad so got redone, diff started whining so got replaced, wheel bearing, tie rod, plus the normal array of rotors and pads. Oil was getting pretty hot so radiator and oil cooler went in. In 12 months i put about 10k in my car.
So yesterday i try to look at my ticking engine, pull off the first 4 rockers on the drivers side, examine everything cause the sound is coming from there. Mind you its been making the sound most of this year. So i sort of assumed it was an exhaust leak from reusing the header gasket. It has been to 4 track days with this tick. Everything looks straight, no odd wear put it back together, and the ticking is now a massive knocking sound. HORRAY
So even if its a lifter, which it sounds really loud to be a lifter, but i dont know how just pulling the rockers and pushrods could effect anything else. As I see it, it's minimally 3-4k, as plenty of stuff needs to get touched up as long as its out.
So im looking at 15-18k in 17 months on this car to be able to run it on track.
Is about 1k a month amatorized repair costs really what it costs? I am not a rich man, I can't sustain this rate of spend, lol.
I run street tires. I change all fluids every year and oil and brake fluid after each event. In the last 12 months i have blown a trans, clutch was bad so got redone, diff started whining so got replaced, wheel bearing, tie rod, plus the normal array of rotors and pads. Oil was getting pretty hot so radiator and oil cooler went in. In 12 months i put about 10k in my car.
So yesterday i try to look at my ticking engine, pull off the first 4 rockers on the drivers side, examine everything cause the sound is coming from there. Mind you its been making the sound most of this year. So i sort of assumed it was an exhaust leak from reusing the header gasket. It has been to 4 track days with this tick. Everything looks straight, no odd wear put it back together, and the ticking is now a massive knocking sound. HORRAY
So even if its a lifter, which it sounds really loud to be a lifter, but i dont know how just pulling the rockers and pushrods could effect anything else. As I see it, it's minimally 3-4k, as plenty of stuff needs to get touched up as long as its out.
So im looking at 15-18k in 17 months on this car to be able to run it on track.
Is about 1k a month amatorized repair costs really what it costs? I am not a rich man, I can't sustain this rate of spend, lol.
07-01-2015, 11:03 AM
#2
Instructor
Damn, stories like this are what scare me about track days with my C5 Z06. My biggest fear is having to tear into the drivetrain and have all of that refreshed, like you have done over time. One question though, how many track days does your car have on it now? That's a big factor......
07-01-2015, 11:14 AM
#3
Drifting
Do any of you guys keep spreadsheets? I am wondering if i am really that far out of the norm, or possibly just bought a beat to **** car?
I run street tires. I change all fluids every year and oil and brake fluid after each event. In the last 12 months i have blown a trans, clutch was bad so got redone, diff started whining so got replaced, wheel bearing, tie rod, plus the normal array of rotors and pads. Oil was getting pretty hot so radiator and oil cooler went in. In 12 months i put about 10k in my car.
So yesterday i try to look at my ticking engine, pull off the first 4 rockers on the drivers side, examine everything cause the sound is coming from there. Mind you its been making the sound most of this year. So i sort of assumed it was an exhaust leak from reusing the header gasket. It has been to 4 track days with this tick. Everything looks straight, no odd wear put it back together, and the ticking is now a massive knocking sound. HORRAY
So even if its a lifter, which it sounds really loud to be a lifter, but i dont know how just pulling the rockers and pushrods could effect anything else. As I see it, it's minimally 3-4k, as plenty of stuff needs to get touched up as long as its out.
So im looking at 15-18k in 17 months on this car to be able to run it on track.
Is about 1k a month amatorized repair costs really what it costs? I am not a rich man, I can't sustain this rate of spend, lol.
I run street tires. I change all fluids every year and oil and brake fluid after each event. In the last 12 months i have blown a trans, clutch was bad so got redone, diff started whining so got replaced, wheel bearing, tie rod, plus the normal array of rotors and pads. Oil was getting pretty hot so radiator and oil cooler went in. In 12 months i put about 10k in my car.
So yesterday i try to look at my ticking engine, pull off the first 4 rockers on the drivers side, examine everything cause the sound is coming from there. Mind you its been making the sound most of this year. So i sort of assumed it was an exhaust leak from reusing the header gasket. It has been to 4 track days with this tick. Everything looks straight, no odd wear put it back together, and the ticking is now a massive knocking sound. HORRAY
So even if its a lifter, which it sounds really loud to be a lifter, but i dont know how just pulling the rockers and pushrods could effect anything else. As I see it, it's minimally 3-4k, as plenty of stuff needs to get touched up as long as its out.
So im looking at 15-18k in 17 months on this car to be able to run it on track.
Is about 1k a month amatorized repair costs really what it costs? I am not a rich man, I can't sustain this rate of spend, lol.
If it is a 2014 with 500 miles on it then not good.
07-01-2015, 12:44 PM
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
its a 2003 c5z, bought it in 12 with 31k on it, has 42k now. i have owned it 34 months. I bought it in september so only 1 day the first year, second year was fairly slow as i was learning to trust the car. Liiterally once i started using most of the car and going relatively fast, a 2-3 day track weekend costs 5k+ due to failures.
07-01-2015, 12:55 PM
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Damn, stories like this are what scare me about track days with my C5 Z06. My biggest fear is having to tear into the drivetrain and have all of that refreshed, like you have done over time. One question though, how many track days does your car have on it now? That's a big factor......
My take is, if you want to run slow, which most people do, it may last fine. I am apparently an idiot with no self control or concern for my life. Once you are exploiting 100% of your tire and are at max mechanical capable g load in every corner, my experience has been, that a c5z is a huge POS and just disinegrates around you.
If you take the advice of race teams swaping trans and diffs every 4-6 races, seems my findings are closer to the truth then what most people report. But its all a matter of how hard you run the car. If you sunday drive it, it will last 200k. I cant imagine any part of the drivetrain will last 10k at 9/10th's from my experience.
Last edited by Socko; 07-01-2015 at 12:58 PM.
07-01-2015, 01:02 PM
#6
07-01-2015, 01:43 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Any street car used hard on the track is going to break/wear out parts, the C5 is in no way unique here. The old saying 'speed costs money' is very relevant. Investigate the cost of tracking a car like a 911 if you really want to see some high costs.
My C5 has over 100 track days on it, a majority of those on slicks and R-comps. A short list of my replaced parts due to breaking or worn out includes: engine, rebuilt trans, 2 diffs, torque tube internals, clutch. Preventive/routine maintencance items include: hubs, ball joints, rotors, tires, pads, valve springs, fluids, etc. Then there is the list of reliability upgrades: radiator, oil cooler, trans and diff coolers, brake ducts, remote bleed slave, brake master cylinder. Not to mention performance upgrades: coilovers, spherical bushings, long tube headers, track alignment, and a whole bunch more.
I stopped counting the amount of money I've spent on this car - it's depressing. But I do count the satisfaction I get from my hobby - priceless.
Its all relative - there are clearly more expensive cars to run and maintain and for that matter, more expensive hobbies to partake in. On the other hand there are much cheaper (but slower) alternatives to a Vette also. There is a reason so many instructors - who spend 30, 40, 50 or more days a year on track - drive low cost/power cars (Miatas for example).
My C5 has over 100 track days on it, a majority of those on slicks and R-comps. A short list of my replaced parts due to breaking or worn out includes: engine, rebuilt trans, 2 diffs, torque tube internals, clutch. Preventive/routine maintencance items include: hubs, ball joints, rotors, tires, pads, valve springs, fluids, etc. Then there is the list of reliability upgrades: radiator, oil cooler, trans and diff coolers, brake ducts, remote bleed slave, brake master cylinder. Not to mention performance upgrades: coilovers, spherical bushings, long tube headers, track alignment, and a whole bunch more.
I stopped counting the amount of money I've spent on this car - it's depressing. But I do count the satisfaction I get from my hobby - priceless.
Its all relative - there are clearly more expensive cars to run and maintain and for that matter, more expensive hobbies to partake in. On the other hand there are much cheaper (but slower) alternatives to a Vette also. There is a reason so many instructors - who spend 30, 40, 50 or more days a year on track - drive low cost/power cars (Miatas for example).
07-01-2015, 01:47 PM
#8
Drifting
Sounds like you got a bad car and the track certainly WILL NOT hurt the car - driver maybe.
A C5 Z06 is a fine car and more than capable for the good majority of the fast guys.
Since you are apparently so fast why not dump the car and get yourself a good T1 version already set up before you smoke the engine too. If you're pushing the rev limiter keeping it up near 6K all the time and hammering the transmission and clutch it won't last long.
You must have a great job if you can afford $5K track days !
A C5 Z06 is a fine car and more than capable for the good majority of the fast guys.
Since you are apparently so fast why not dump the car and get yourself a good T1 version already set up before you smoke the engine too. If you're pushing the rev limiter keeping it up near 6K all the time and hammering the transmission and clutch it won't last long.
You must have a great job if you can afford $5K track days !
07-01-2015, 02:04 PM
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
Any street car used hard on the track is going to break/wear out parts, the C5 is in no way unique here. The old saying 'speed costs money' is very relevant. Investigate the cost of tracking a car like a 911 if you really want to see some high costs.
My C5 has over 100 track days on it, a majority of those on slicks and R-comps. A short list of my replaced parts due to breaking or worn out includes: engine, rebuilt trans, 2 diffs, torque tube internals, clutch. Preventive/routine maintencance items include: hubs, ball joints, rotors, tires, pads, valve springs, fluids, etc. Then there is the list of reliability upgrades: radiator, oil cooler, trans and diff coolers, brake ducts, remote bleed slave, brake master cylinder. Not to mention performance upgrades: coilovers, spherical bushings, long tube headers, track alignment, and a whole bunch more.
I stopped counting the amount of money I've spent on this car - it's depressing. But I do count the satisfaction I get from my hobby - priceless.
Its all relative - there are clearly more expensive cars to run and maintain and for that matter, more expensive hobbies to partake in. On the other hand there are much cheaper (but slower) alternatives to a Vette also. There is a reason so many instructors - who spend 30, 40, 50 or more days a year on track - drive low cost/power cars (Miatas for example).
My C5 has over 100 track days on it, a majority of those on slicks and R-comps. A short list of my replaced parts due to breaking or worn out includes: engine, rebuilt trans, 2 diffs, torque tube internals, clutch. Preventive/routine maintencance items include: hubs, ball joints, rotors, tires, pads, valve springs, fluids, etc. Then there is the list of reliability upgrades: radiator, oil cooler, trans and diff coolers, brake ducts, remote bleed slave, brake master cylinder. Not to mention performance upgrades: coilovers, spherical bushings, long tube headers, track alignment, and a whole bunch more.
I stopped counting the amount of money I've spent on this car - it's depressing. But I do count the satisfaction I get from my hobby - priceless.
Its all relative - there are clearly more expensive cars to run and maintain and for that matter, more expensive hobbies to partake in. On the other hand there are much cheaper (but slower) alternatives to a Vette also. There is a reason so many instructors - who spend 30, 40, 50 or more days a year on track - drive low cost/power cars (Miatas for example).
To a large degree this is what i am getting at. My car has been more or less broke since i pushed it hard in june of 2014. and since then has cost me 15-20k depending what i spend on this engine.
The question is, did i hit a **** part of the failure curve, and if i put a motor in it, can it last 50+ trackdays with only maintenence items? Or do most people just drive slow or lie, and these cars don't last all that well at all?
I read numerous reports of people getting 50-75 track days before any major failures. Now having some experience, and meeting people like that at the track, its cause they are slow. I refuse to pussyfoot around on the track, its a max personal effort type deal for me. I love it, but if i cant afford it, i cant afford it. That is why i am trying to figure out if these costs will work out over the next 5+ years or if next year i will just have to replace the trans again, lol.
If i can figure the car will stay together, ill drop the 8-9k on a texas speed shortblock with some decent parts. If the car just cannot last, and i should expect it to cost roughly 10k a year jsut to keep it driving. It is just too much for me to afford.
I will never reduce myself to being one of those *******s in a miata that i have to drop 4-5 mph in any corner to not smash into at apex. Just cant do it. Any much slower isn't viable for me.
07-01-2015, 02:20 PM
#11
Instructor
To a large degree this is what i am getting at. My car has been more or less broke since i pushed it hard in june of 2014. and since then has cost me 15-20k depending what i spend on this engine.
The question is, did i hit a **** part of the failure curve, and if i put a motor in it, can it last 50+ trackdays with only maintenence items? Or do most people just drive slow or lie, and these cars don't last all that well at all?
I read numerous reports of people getting 50-75 track days before any major failures. Now having some experience, and meeting people like that at the track, its cause they are slow. I refuse to pussyfoot around on the track, its a max personal effort type deal for me. I love it, but if i cant afford it, i cant afford it. That is why i am trying to figure out if these costs will work out over the next 5+ years or if next year i will just have to replace the trans again, lol.
If i can figure the car will stay together, ill drop the 8-9k on a texas speed shortblock with some decent parts. If the car just cannot last, and i should expect it to cost roughly 10k a year jsut to keep it driving. It is just too much for me to afford.
I will never reduce myself to being one of those *******s in a miata that i have to drop 4-5 mph in any corner to not smash into at apex. Just cant do it. Any much slower isn't viable for me.
The question is, did i hit a **** part of the failure curve, and if i put a motor in it, can it last 50+ trackdays with only maintenence items? Or do most people just drive slow or lie, and these cars don't last all that well at all?
I read numerous reports of people getting 50-75 track days before any major failures. Now having some experience, and meeting people like that at the track, its cause they are slow. I refuse to pussyfoot around on the track, its a max personal effort type deal for me. I love it, but if i cant afford it, i cant afford it. That is why i am trying to figure out if these costs will work out over the next 5+ years or if next year i will just have to replace the trans again, lol.
If i can figure the car will stay together, ill drop the 8-9k on a texas speed shortblock with some decent parts. If the car just cannot last, and i should expect it to cost roughly 10k a year jsut to keep it driving. It is just too much for me to afford.
I will never reduce myself to being one of those *******s in a miata that i have to drop 4-5 mph in any corner to not smash into at apex. Just cant do it. Any much slower isn't viable for me.
07-01-2015, 02:23 PM
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
Sounds like you got a bad car and the track certainly WILL NOT hurt the car - driver maybe.
A C5 Z06 is a fine car and more than capable for the good majority of the fast guys.
Since you are apparently so fast why not dump the car and get yourself a good T1 version already set up before you smoke the engine too. If you're pushing the rev limiter keeping it up near 6K all the time and hammering the transmission and clutch it won't last long.
You must have a great job if you can afford $5K track days !
A C5 Z06 is a fine car and more than capable for the good majority of the fast guys.
Since you are apparently so fast why not dump the car and get yourself a good T1 version already set up before you smoke the engine too. If you're pushing the rev limiter keeping it up near 6K all the time and hammering the transmission and clutch it won't last long.
You must have a great job if you can afford $5K track days !
I am just tring to get honest answers, cause my factual experience , having wrenched on 2 c5z's, is that they are constantly broke. Mind you my buddies makes close to 1000whp and he put it on Road America and melted an exhaust valve off, so I didn't think a ton of it. I figured i wouls be smart and keep my car stock, and it still just self destructs. But everything i read on here is that they are wonderful and invincable, which right. Street drive any street car, it will last 150k. At some point tracking it makes it less reliable, but the difference between running 255-305 laps at Road America, which is actually what most people at track days run, and 240-245 laps at Road America which is what i am running, and right, isnt fast. Is apparently a LOT relative to vehical durability.
07-01-2015, 02:24 PM
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
07-01-2015, 02:51 PM
#14
Race Director
Just for comparison
This baby costs $5k for a weekend HPDE
Race weekend is near $35k including Grid Girls
24 hrs of Daytona would probably approach $100k minus entry fee
This baby costs $5k for a weekend HPDE
Race weekend is near $35k including Grid Girls
24 hrs of Daytona would probably approach $100k minus entry fee
07-01-2015, 03:04 PM
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
i mean the fact of the matter is, as i am reading around here and other forums. I think i have been kidding myself that a trackday in anything costs 1kish.
It's over 2 and under 3 in reality i think for a c5z. Sure that is cheaper then some cars and more then others. I posted this to try and find out what it really costs people. I know damn well i am not the only person here who keeps a spreadsheet, lol. Maybe i am the poorest person here!
If you don't figure spreading out cost, the first multi day event i ran costs me 6kish for a trans and clutch, and this is the second one and it will liekly cost 6-8, so i think you actually got me beat atm.
Last edited by Socko; 07-01-2015 at 03:13 PM.
07-01-2015, 03:21 PM
#16
Race Director
If you have a C3,4,5,6,7 road car & do your own work & just pay for pads, wheels, slicks, oil & brake fluid change that could be around $1k for a weekend + entry fee
07-01-2015, 03:27 PM
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
Yeah issue is at 6-7 days a year, replacing a trans diff clutch and motor in 12 months sorta throws off the amatorized cost significantly. I am going to post my ss when i get home so you guys can see how absurd it is. You will get a kick out of it.
07-01-2015, 03:42 PM
#18
Safety Car
repairs haven't been bad
the car is a C6Z51 with 126,000 miles I bought it new and have replaced the alternator (not needed but I wanted a bigger one)
Water pump Slight leak
right front upright Broke at Watkins Glen (hit the Armco)
shocks & springs (upgrade to LG G2)
front tierod ends.
and both rear hubs
couple of light bulbs that pretty much it !
Now I did add a Transmission cooler& Dewitts radiator along with headers and a tune
Brakes have been changed to Wilwoods pads are cheaper and last longer
rotors are Two piece from Preformance AFX (forum vendor)
07-01-2015, 03:51 PM
#20
I have a 2001 Z06 that is track only, not street driven, I am the 3rd owner.
It was made in September of 2000, has 80,000 miles on it, and I push it hard.
I do all of the work myself except for the alignment.
The drive train is original except for the valve springs.
This year I have run 3 events (four to five 20 min segments each) and have spent $100 on an alignment, almost $100 on brake fluid (motul 600), almost $200 on engine oil and filters (lucas 20w50 syn), $1,100 on a set of 4 new Toyo R888s, $400 on a set of Bilstien heavy duty shocks, $800 on a set of Doug's long tube headers, and $350 on a dyno tune (364 hp to the wheels) and it's only July, luckily the Raybestos ST-43 pads from last year are still better than half. Include the track fees ($650 or so ) + gas and it adds up to nearly a shittload of money. But hey, how can you put a price tag on fun, right?
It was made in September of 2000, has 80,000 miles on it, and I push it hard.
I do all of the work myself except for the alignment.
The drive train is original except for the valve springs.
This year I have run 3 events (four to five 20 min segments each) and have spent $100 on an alignment, almost $100 on brake fluid (motul 600), almost $200 on engine oil and filters (lucas 20w50 syn), $1,100 on a set of 4 new Toyo R888s, $400 on a set of Bilstien heavy duty shocks, $800 on a set of Doug's long tube headers, and $350 on a dyno tune (364 hp to the wheels) and it's only July, luckily the Raybestos ST-43 pads from last year are still better than half. Include the track fees ($650 or so ) + gas and it adds up to nearly a shittload of money. But hey, how can you put a price tag on fun, right?
Last edited by John Holmes; 07-01-2015 at 03:53 PM.