HowTo: Shop For 18'' C6-Z06 Track Wheels
07-01-2015, 10:47 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
HowTo: Shop For 18'' C6-Z06 Track Wheels
I'm still shopping for a set of (4) C6-Z06 track wheels to run Pirelli takeoffs (305 front / 315 rear). What do I need to look for? Does anyone sell a setup for this?
The shopping experience thus far has been pretty frustrating given I'm no expert on backspacing and all that crap.
I just want to get a set of track wheels to run scrubs without paying $4-5K for a set of lightweight race wheels made of Unobtanium.
Thanks guys.
The shopping experience thus far has been pretty frustrating given I'm no expert on backspacing and all that crap.
I just want to get a set of track wheels to run scrubs without paying $4-5K for a set of lightweight race wheels made of Unobtanium.
Thanks guys.
07-01-2015, 11:04 PM
#2
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,092
Received 8,928 Likes
on
5,333 Posts
CCWs are the most popular choice. I picked up a set earlier this year and just learned an expensive lesson this past Monday. The CCWs have a an outside hub diameter that is larger than the OEM wheels. This can become an issue when you have an aftermarket two piece rotor set up with a hat that has a sunken center section. Depending on the diameter of the sunken area the wheels may or may not fit. I had this situation and due to not paying attention to some warning signs lost my left front wheel in T1 at VIR on Monday. Body shop estimate is $3800 including $2600 for a new fender. The wheel is going back to CCW for some inspection to see if it is safe and it could cost me another $1K if it is damage beyond repair. I also have about $500 in damage to the Wilwood Brake Rotor and Hat.
When I talked to CCW earlier today all this could have been avoided if I had paid attention to what the previous owner sent me when he sent the wheels. He had planned on using them on a C6Z Z07 with the CCBs. It turns out the rotor hats on those brakes also have sunken center sections and CCW supplies a spacer that fits in that area. I already had the spacer in the box and it fit my rotor hat.
Not having the wheel fit flush on the rotor hat permitted wheel movement which fatigued the studs which eventually broke off on the 7th track day I had used the wheels. Make sure you know what your are doing and don't try to interface two parts that aren't compatible with each other unless you have some way to make them compatible.
Bill
When I talked to CCW earlier today all this could have been avoided if I had paid attention to what the previous owner sent me when he sent the wheels. He had planned on using them on a C6Z Z07 with the CCBs. It turns out the rotor hats on those brakes also have sunken center sections and CCW supplies a spacer that fits in that area. I already had the spacer in the box and it fit my rotor hat.
Not having the wheel fit flush on the rotor hat permitted wheel movement which fatigued the studs which eventually broke off on the 7th track day I had used the wheels. Make sure you know what your are doing and don't try to interface two parts that aren't compatible with each other unless you have some way to make them compatible.
Bill
07-01-2015, 11:12 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Talk to Daniel at Finspeed or you can go with Forgelines. No spacers needed and they clear a BBK with plenty of room to spare. Finspeeds are less money than Forgelines and are very well made.
You can run a wider setup 315F/345R if you want.
You can run a wider setup 315F/345R if you want.
07-02-2015, 08:27 AM
#5
Safety Car
CCWs are the most popular choice. I picked up a set earlier this year and just learned an expensive lesson this past Monday. The CCWs have a an outside hub diameter that is larger than the OEM wheels. This can become an issue when you have an aftermarket two piece rotor set up with a hat that has a sunken center section. Depending on the diameter of the sunken area the wheels may or may not fit. I had this situation and due to not paying attention to some warning signs lost my left front wheel in T1 at VIR on Monday. Body shop estimate is $3800 including $2600 for a new fender. The wheel is going back to CCW for some inspection to see if it is safe and it could cost me another $1K if it is damage beyond repair. I also have about $500 in damage to the Wilwood Brake Rotor and Hat.
When I talked to CCW earlier today all this could have been avoided if I had paid attention to what the previous owner sent me when he sent the wheels. He had planned on using them on a C6Z Z07 with the CCBs. It turns out the rotor hats on those brakes also have sunken center sections and CCW supplies a spacer that fits in that area. I already had the spacer in the box and it fit my rotor hat.
Not having the wheel fit flush on the rotor hat permitted wheel movement which fatigued the studs which eventually broke off on the 7th track day I had used the wheels. Make sure you know what your are doing and don't try to interface two parts that aren't compatible with each other unless you have some way to make them compatible.
Bill
When I talked to CCW earlier today all this could have been avoided if I had paid attention to what the previous owner sent me when he sent the wheels. He had planned on using them on a C6Z Z07 with the CCBs. It turns out the rotor hats on those brakes also have sunken center sections and CCW supplies a spacer that fits in that area. I already had the spacer in the box and it fit my rotor hat.
Not having the wheel fit flush on the rotor hat permitted wheel movement which fatigued the studs which eventually broke off on the 7th track day I had used the wheels. Make sure you know what your are doing and don't try to interface two parts that aren't compatible with each other unless you have some way to make them compatible.
Bill
l
07-02-2015, 12:47 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
CCWs are the most popular choice. I picked up a set earlier this year and just learned an expensive lesson this past Monday. The CCWs have a an outside hub diameter that is larger than the OEM wheels. This can become an issue when you have an aftermarket two piece rotor set up with a hat that has a sunken center section. Depending on the diameter of the sunken area the wheels may or may not fit. I had this situation and due to not paying attention to some warning signs lost my left front wheel in T1 at VIR on Monday. Body shop estimate is $3800 including $2600 for a new fender. The wheel is going back to CCW for some inspection to see if it is safe and it could cost me another $1K if it is damage beyond repair. I also have about $500 in damage to the Wilwood Brake Rotor and Hat.
When I talked to CCW earlier today all this could have been avoided if I had paid attention to what the previous owner sent me when he sent the wheels. He had planned on using them on a C6Z Z07 with the CCBs. It turns out the rotor hats on those brakes also have sunken center sections and CCW supplies a spacer that fits in that area. I already had the spacer in the box and it fit my rotor hat.
Not having the wheel fit flush on the rotor hat permitted wheel movement which fatigued the studs which eventually broke off on the 7th track day I had used the wheels. Make sure you know what your are doing and don't try to interface two parts that aren't compatible with each other unless you have some way to make them compatible.
Bill
When I talked to CCW earlier today all this could have been avoided if I had paid attention to what the previous owner sent me when he sent the wheels. He had planned on using them on a C6Z Z07 with the CCBs. It turns out the rotor hats on those brakes also have sunken center sections and CCW supplies a spacer that fits in that area. I already had the spacer in the box and it fit my rotor hat.
Not having the wheel fit flush on the rotor hat permitted wheel movement which fatigued the studs which eventually broke off on the 7th track day I had used the wheels. Make sure you know what your are doing and don't try to interface two parts that aren't compatible with each other unless you have some way to make them compatible.
Bill
07-02-2015, 03:29 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
CCWs are the most popular choice. I picked up a set earlier this year and just learned an expensive lesson this past Monday. The CCWs have a an outside hub diameter that is larger than the OEM wheels. This can become an issue when you have an aftermarket two piece rotor set up with a hat that has a sunken center section. Depending on the diameter of the sunken area the wheels may or may not fit. I had this situation and due to not paying attention to some warning signs lost my left front wheel in T1 at VIR on Monday. Body shop estimate is $3800 including $2600 for a new fender. The wheel is going back to CCW for some inspection to see if it is safe and it could cost me another $1K if it is damage beyond repair. I also have about $500 in damage to the Wilwood Brake Rotor and Hat.
When I talked to CCW earlier today all this could have been avoided if I had paid attention to what the previous owner sent me when he sent the wheels. He had planned on using them on a C6Z Z07 with the CCBs. It turns out the rotor hats on those brakes also have sunken center sections and CCW supplies a spacer that fits in that area. I already had the spacer in the box and it fit my rotor hat.
Not having the wheel fit flush on the rotor hat permitted wheel movement which fatigued the studs which eventually broke off on the 7th track day I had used the wheels. Make sure you know what your are doing and don't try to interface two parts that aren't compatible with each other unless you have some way to make them compatible.
Bill
When I talked to CCW earlier today all this could have been avoided if I had paid attention to what the previous owner sent me when he sent the wheels. He had planned on using them on a C6Z Z07 with the CCBs. It turns out the rotor hats on those brakes also have sunken center sections and CCW supplies a spacer that fits in that area. I already had the spacer in the box and it fit my rotor hat.
Not having the wheel fit flush on the rotor hat permitted wheel movement which fatigued the studs which eventually broke off on the 7th track day I had used the wheels. Make sure you know what your are doing and don't try to interface two parts that aren't compatible with each other unless you have some way to make them compatible.
Bill
I guess the good news is it could have been worse.
Last season I too picked up a used set of CCW's and I also have the CCB's on my carbon edition. I actually ran my 1st day without the spacers, which I did not know to get/have. My lugs kept loosening up after each session & I couldn't figure out why.
It wasn't until I found out on the forum from John @ CCW (as well as others) that I needed the spacers, which I ordered from John. Next time out, problem solved... And they are only a 4mm spacer. I also went with open lug nuts so as to recoup the lost threads from the spacers width. Luckily for me I caught it early on.
That recessed area appears to allow the wheel to fit flush, but if you test fit it and really look CLOSELY, you can see that it does not.
Hope you're back out there sooner!
Ron
07-02-2015, 04:03 PM
#8
Drifting
CCW's are the most popular choice and do show up used every once in a while. You have to be quick as they sell used very quickly for just a few hundred less than new.
Wheels are a wear item according to some manufactures, the stress life on a forged wheel is like a zillion cycles but they can crack.
If buying new you really have to look at Finspeed wheels. They are a bit more expensive than CCW but worth it. Will be very easy to sell used as they also fit the C7Z.
18x11 and 18x13 is the standard track size for scrubs, but more and more scrubs are showing up in 19".
An 18" C5Z rear wheel fits nicely on the front of a C6Z with a thin spacer if you really want to save money. See my icon, what I ran for a year with Cont. scrubs.
Wheels are a wear item according to some manufactures, the stress life on a forged wheel is like a zillion cycles but they can crack.
If buying new you really have to look at Finspeed wheels. They are a bit more expensive than CCW but worth it. Will be very easy to sell used as they also fit the C7Z.
18x11 and 18x13 is the standard track size for scrubs, but more and more scrubs are showing up in 19".
An 18" C5Z rear wheel fits nicely on the front of a C6Z with a thin spacer if you really want to save money. See my icon, what I ran for a year with Cont. scrubs.
07-02-2015, 09:51 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks. When I look at a wheel's specs how can I know that they will work with a C6-Z?
I'm just really trying to avoid buying another set of wheels that aren't going to meet my needs.
I'm just really trying to avoid buying another set of wheels that aren't going to meet my needs.
07-02-2015, 10:44 PM
#10
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,092
Received 8,928 Likes
on
5,333 Posts
The lesson is to be aware of the peculiarities of your application. For instance if you have stock rotors and buy the CCWs you will be fine but if you change to an aftermarket BBK you have to watch out.
Here are some example Wilwood BBK offerings one doesn't require a spacer and the other does. Basically, the same caliper but one application is more street/track while the other is race oriented. Look at the diagrams showing the shape of the rotor hat and you will see what I am talking about.
You can use a CCW without any spacers with this kit: http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...tion=C-6+-+Z06
You need a spacer to use a CCW wheel with this kit due to the dished center of the rotor hat: http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...tion=C-6+-+Z06
Wilwood also offers a 2 piece rotor replacement for the stock rotor. If you have CCW wheels and use this rotor replacement kit you will need to add the spacer every time you install these rotors. http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...emno=140-12496
Bill
07-02-2015, 11:06 PM
#11
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,092
Received 8,928 Likes
on
5,333 Posts
Ouch, sorry to hear that Bill. I was swapping rear rotors on my car when we noticed the track got quiet and heard that somebody got to the tire barrier at T1. Glad you're OK even if your wallet is going to take a beating. I sheared off a pair of wheel studs myself on Tuesday at T1 but got lucky and the other 3 held tight and I was able to limp the car back around. Scary stuff.
I have been looking for a front fender since I went to the body shop yesterday. They told me if I could find one they wouldn't have any concerns installing it but they told me to get an undamaged one. However, stock GM carbon fiber fenders have become the newest items in the unobtanium category. According to several dealers GM has discontinued them and there are no superceding part numbers.
Another part that seems to have disappeared from stock is the liner that fits at the rear of the wheel well and covers part of the fender.
I worked on the car today and it looks like the suspension pieces are OK. The wheel bearing seems to be OK as well. It doesn't have any play or roughness and it doesn't look like the hub flange was damaged or bent. The Lambert spindle ducts were bent by the rotor when it flopped around as the wheel came off but I was able to straighten them out with a hammer and they are back in place.
Todd at TCE has next day aired me some brake hoses for the front. The one where the wheel came off looks like it snagged on something and is not looking to good so I am going to change it before I try driving the car. The rotor doesn't look to bad for the abuse it received but the vents are packed with dirt and grass and the edge is chewed up from the pavement and rocks. The rotor hat is pretty badly gouged so I think I need to replace those two items to be on the safe side. The caliper had the red coating removed in a couple of spots but otherwise it looks like it survived the experience.
The wheel goes back to CCW for inspection the early part of next week.
All in all not too bad considering the damage that might have occurred if I had been doing 150+ either at the end of the front or back straights when the wheel came off.
Bill
07-04-2015, 04:19 AM
#13
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I have a set of Pirelli scrubs. The fronts are 305 and the rears are 315s (if memory serves).
My current track wheel are OEM Z06 wheels with Hoosier R6s. They are fine but the Hoosiers absolutely suck hairy donkey *** in terms of longevity. That's what lead me to the 18" scrubs.
My current track wheel are OEM Z06 wheels with Hoosier R6s. They are fine but the Hoosiers absolutely suck hairy donkey *** in terms of longevity. That's what lead me to the 18" scrubs.
07-04-2015, 03:36 PM
#14
Drifting
I'm still shopping for a set of (4) C6-Z06 track wheels to run Pirelli takeoffs (305 front / 315 rear). What do I need to look for? Does anyone sell a setup for this?
The shopping experience thus far has been pretty frustrating given I'm no expert on backspacing and all that crap.
I just want to get a set of track wheels to run scrubs without paying $4-5K for a set of lightweight race wheels made of Unobtanium.
Thanks guys.
The shopping experience thus far has been pretty frustrating given I'm no expert on backspacing and all that crap.
I just want to get a set of track wheels to run scrubs without paying $4-5K for a set of lightweight race wheels made of Unobtanium.
Thanks guys.
Jay
07-08-2015, 10:09 PM
#16
Racer
Forgestar F14. Light strong and half the price of CCW. They custom made the offsets for me a few years ago for C6Z. 18x11 front and 18x12 rear. Both sizes sub 25 pounds. I bought them for $1350 shipped through Modbargains. Today they are about $1500. The only downside is the build time. Takes up to 90 days. Been AX and road racing them for a few years and love them!