miracle_whip4130

I just had a new set of NT05s (275/40R17 and 295/35R18) put on my 2002 C5 Z06 and am going to do my own alignment this weekend, using some home-made tools based on the David Farmer guide and some threads on here. The suspension and wheels are 100% stock and so is ride height. I ran over a few curbs at Sebring at my last event and the car has had a very slight pull to the right since then. My old tires were garbage anyway, so I didn't bother getting the car re-aligned right after the event. However, I want to align the car in preparation for a HPDE I'm doing at Sebring next weekend on my new tires and I had a few questions:

-What would be a good alignment for this car for dual purpose with my home track being Sebring? I was considering going with PFADT's performance street alignment for street tires, found here: http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-9.12.2011.pdf but also adding a little bit more neg camber. I'm wondering if anyone has any input based on my specific tires and how much camber they like, etc. Also, suggested target hot tire pressures would be nice as well.
-What are the recommended torque specs for all of the hardware adjusted during an alignment for track duty? I want to make sure the eccentrics don't move, but don't want to strip or damage anything. I found the factory torques below here: http://www.corvette-web-central.com/...rquevalues.pdf

Front Suspension
UCA mounting bolts 48 ftlbs
Tie rod jam nut 44 ftlbs
LCA front cam bolt nut ???
LCA rear cam bolt nut ???

Rear Suspension
LCA front cam bolt nut 107 ftlbs
LCA rear cam bolt nut 70 ftlbs
Tie rod jam nut 44 ftlbs
UCA mounting bolts 81 ftlbs

Should I tighten the nuts on the eccentrics more for track use? Is it safe to assume the torque spec for the fronts is the same as the rears? I noticed this was not the case for the UCA mounting bolts.

Thanks!

ryan0

It all depends on how long you want your tires to last with all the street driving.

Track alignment depends on the track and your driving, but generally a bit over 2.5 in the front, a little over 1.5 in the back.

Small toe out in front and in in the back.

Torque the cam bolts to "as tight as you can".

Last C5

The OP is 6'8", weighs 270 lbs, and wrestles 30' alligators for a living.
Let's just have him add about 10-15% to the factory torque specs and call it good.

Gordy M

You can run -1.8 camber front and -1.0 camber back without too much wear and tear. When I set my alignment I mark the tie rod for street at 0 front and 1/32 rear toe in with blue magic market and track at 1/32 front toe out and 1/16 rear toe in in white paint stick. I autocross, HPDE and street drive about 3000 miles per year and have fairly even tread wear front and back.

When tightening the camber bolts I torque them to 125 ft-lb then add an extender to the ratched and try to get another 1/4 turn.

miracle_whip4130

Valid concern, as I live in Florida haha.

So I did my alignment this weekend and in retrospect I have another question: When adjusting the eccentrics, does it matter what position they end up in as long as the alignment is right? For example, if you are looking at the bolt head and you want it in the middle left/right you could have it in the middle and be all the way at the top of the circle or at the bottom. Does this matter and does it matter where the index marks on the eccentrics end up pointing? Should you make sure that they are pointing down or what?