100# off my C5 racecar?
07-28-2015, 07:24 PM
#21
Pro
Here are some they use for Miata's
http://www.advanced-autosports.com/i...dowBracket.jpg
07-28-2015, 07:26 PM
#22
Pro
07-28-2015, 08:34 PM
#23
Former Vendor
There is two schools of thought on wing mounting.
1. The higher and further back, the less angle you need to run. All true, but does add frontal surface area (more drag) but trades it off with less angle.
2. Lower, requires more wing angle. But it's lessen the frontal drag.
So what is the best? Well experimenting is the only way to really know that. But dragging a homemade wing out in the breeze without horsepower, running around in 4th gear to save gas and getting pulled by the boxers. Tells me it's worth a shot, and it will save weight
Randy
1. The higher and further back, the less angle you need to run. All true, but does add frontal surface area (more drag) but trades it off with less angle.
2. Lower, requires more wing angle. But it's lessen the frontal drag.
So what is the best? Well experimenting is the only way to really know that. But dragging a homemade wing out in the breeze without horsepower, running around in 4th gear to save gas and getting pulled by the boxers. Tells me it's worth a shot, and it will save weight
Randy
07-29-2015, 10:50 AM
#24
Pro
There is two schools of thought on wing mounting.
1. The higher and further back, the less angle you need to run. All true, but does add frontal surface area (more drag) but trades it off with less angle.
2. Lower, requires more wing angle. But it's lessen the frontal drag.
So what is the best? Well experimenting is the only way to really know that. But dragging a homemade wing out in the breeze without horsepower, running around in 4th gear to save gas and getting pulled by the boxers. Tells me it's worth a shot, and it will save weight
Randy
1. The higher and further back, the less angle you need to run. All true, but does add frontal surface area (more drag) but trades it off with less angle.
2. Lower, requires more wing angle. But it's lessen the frontal drag.
So what is the best? Well experimenting is the only way to really know that. But dragging a homemade wing out in the breeze without horsepower, running around in 4th gear to save gas and getting pulled by the boxers. Tells me it's worth a shot, and it will save weight
Randy
The Boxsters were dead even with us through third. We would start to pull them in fourth.
07-30-2015, 12:31 PM
#25
Good suggestions all-around Chris, I hadn't thought of the battery cable but that's definitely a place to save some. I had meant to order 2ga cable but ordered 2/0 on accident, being in a time crunch on the build I just went with it and haven't gone back to change it up. I'll definitely be to downsize on that. Moving the switch might be an option but I'm going to save that one as I felt it was the best/safest place for it in terms of being accessible and legal across sanctioning bodies.
On the wing, we definitely can't run without it so long as the splitter is there, tried it at BIR and it was friggin scary. I can certainly reduce the overall height, I don't have anything real scientific on placement, except that making it taller supposedly moves it out of the flow around the car to reduce the ill effects of a straight profile versus something better-engineered like an APR. If I moved it to a few inches below roof height, I assume that'd have a decent effect on the drag?
On the wing, we definitely can't run without it so long as the splitter is there, tried it at BIR and it was friggin scary. I can certainly reduce the overall height, I don't have anything real scientific on placement, except that making it taller supposedly moves it out of the flow around the car to reduce the ill effects of a straight profile versus something better-engineered like an APR. If I moved it to a few inches below roof height, I assume that'd have a decent effect on the drag?
07-30-2015, 12:38 PM
#26
An option for moving weight (if it helps) is to duplicate the EBCM placement on the 97 and early 98 cars. The whole unit was mounted between the mufflers at the back of the car instead of right behind the radiator. You'd obviously need the harness and brake lines to support that, so it may be a non-starter. Also, rear-mounted battery if not already done. Using a lexan rear hatch will push your weight bias forward, so going through the effort of moving weight rearward would probably be worth it.
If you can't outrun a boxster at high speed (100+) with the coupe body (even with the 4.8), it makes me wonder what's happening with your aero. Can you super-size the gills and remove the blocking plates to get air out of the engine bay?
If you can't outrun a boxster at high speed (100+) with the coupe body (even with the 4.8), it makes me wonder what's happening with your aero. Can you super-size the gills and remove the blocking plates to get air out of the engine bay?
Also looking at the Targa top with the potential to skin it or replace with an aftermarket panel. The internet says the stock one is about 20#, so there may be potential to save about 10# there by swapping the magnesium frame and latches for tabs and mounting screws.
08-02-2015, 08:06 AM
#27
Racer
Gotcha. Can you swap in the Z06 roof parts and skin that? If my memory is correct, the frame was the same but it was bolted in. People here who have gutted Z06s will know for sure. Judging by the difference in weight between the factory lexan top and the body-color one, most of the weight is in the skin itself.
08-02-2015, 07:05 PM
#28
I was looking at the z06 roofs the other day, that might be an option but I want to keep it a hatchback so I'd have to cut up the z06 roof to join it with the halo panel that's on the car. I also thought about making a mold off my stock roof to lay up a lightweight replacement skin. As weight loss goes, the highest point on the car would be as good a place as any.