Factory rev matching?
08-11-2015, 06:36 PM
#2
Pro
08-12-2015, 06:53 PM
#7
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
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The C7 I drove a few weeks ago simply blips the throttle when you tap the downshift paddle. No throttle input necessary. Really different and nicely programmed. Sorry about the Cobalt SS post; a different function altogether. 
08-12-2015, 07:25 PM
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
I was initially asking if you lift when you move the stick on a manual transmission? c7z06.
Back in the day before technology was added to transmissions, power shifting a stick, meant holding the throttle open and hitting clutch & shifter and then let it out.
I don't think the clutches lasted long.
08-12-2015, 10:58 PM
#10
Drifting
Factory rev matching?
Originally Posted by SouthernSon
I would say you shift as with older manuals. I don't believe the C7 has 'no lift' function.
It seems to work well at the top end 6400-6500 rpm's. Shift at 5000 and you'll decimate the tires upon releasing the clutch. Just trust me...
08-13-2015, 07:48 AM
#12
Two different technologies. Active Rev Match (ARM) was introduced in the 2014 Corvette with the M7 and has been refined slightly in the 2015/16 models. To the best of my knowledge it is on all M7 cars. You activate it by pressing one of the paddles on the wheel (since they serve no other purpose on an M7 car) and once it's on it stays on as long as the car is running. In other words you need to turn it on each start.
With ARM on the throttle is automatically blipped when you push the clutch in and go from a selected gear to Neutral and again when you select the next gear. As best I can tell this initial blip is always the same and the second blip is programmed based on the gear you select next, speed, RPM, etc. It works really well.
There is also a no lift (up) shift option in the M7 cars but I don't know if its tied to use of the launch control or not as I've never used it. Basically you do as you described and just keep the throttle pinned when you push the clutch, select the next higher gear, and release the clutch. This might also be tied to just cars that have PTM which comes with the MR shock option (standard on the C7Z).
With ARM on the throttle is automatically blipped when you push the clutch in and go from a selected gear to Neutral and again when you select the next gear. As best I can tell this initial blip is always the same and the second blip is programmed based on the gear you select next, speed, RPM, etc. It works really well.
There is also a no lift (up) shift option in the M7 cars but I don't know if its tied to use of the launch control or not as I've never used it. Basically you do as you described and just keep the throttle pinned when you push the clutch, select the next higher gear, and release the clutch. This might also be tied to just cars that have PTM which comes with the MR shock option (standard on the C7Z).
08-13-2015, 10:37 AM
#13
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
Posts: 13,915
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I have only driven the A8 on the track, not a M7. The only info I can find on the C7's rev matching is this:
"Regardless, the system has come along way from the no-lift shift system GM had a few years ago, giving you almost DSG-like shifting abilities while still giving you the feel of shifting yourself. "
Sounds like this author is confusing auto and straight trannys. Maybe the M7 works in the same manner as the older Cobalt SS 'no lift shift' or, perhaps, more evolved. I dunno.
AutoX, are you saying the programming holds rpm for the shift as opposed to jamming the tranny in gear while rpm's climb as with the old power shifting?
Last edited by SouthernSon; 08-13-2015 at 10:51 AM.
08-13-2015, 01:27 PM
#14
Race Director
Thread Starter
Two different technologies. Active Rev Match (ARM) was introduced in the 2014 Corvette with the M7 and has been refined slightly in the 2015/16 models. To the best of my knowledge it is on all M7 cars. You activate it by pressing one of the paddles on the wheel (since they serve no other purpose on an M7 car) and once it's on it stays on as long as the car is running. In other words you need to turn it on each start.
With ARM on the throttle is automatically blipped when you push the clutch in and go from a selected gear to Neutral and again when you select the next gear. As best I can tell this initial blip is always the same and the second blip is programmed based on the gear you select next, speed, RPM, etc. It works really well.
There is also a no lift (up) shift option in the M7 cars but I don't know if its tied to use of the launch control or not as I've never used it. Basically you do as you described and just keep the throttle pinned when you push the clutch, select the next higher gear, and release the clutch. This might also be tied to just cars that have PTM which comes with the MR shock option (standard on the C7Z).
With ARM on the throttle is automatically blipped when you push the clutch in and go from a selected gear to Neutral and again when you select the next gear. As best I can tell this initial blip is always the same and the second blip is programmed based on the gear you select next, speed, RPM, etc. It works really well.
There is also a no lift (up) shift option in the M7 cars but I don't know if its tied to use of the launch control or not as I've never used it. Basically you do as you described and just keep the throttle pinned when you push the clutch, select the next higher gear, and release the clutch. This might also be tied to just cars that have PTM which comes with the MR shock option (standard on the C7Z).
Thanks.
08-13-2015, 10:20 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
In general, when doing road racing (HPDE), you do a "heel/toe" down shift.
That is, you press the brake with your toe, and press the accelerator with your heel,
and at the same time, you have depressed the clutch, and are shifting to a lower gear.
This is all done "in concert" (together).
The whole idea of course, is to rev the engine higher when letting out the clutch,
so the lower gear you are shifting to will be matched nicely with appropriate
engine revs.
If you don't "blip" the engine, then when you release the clutch in the lower gear,
you are introducing engine braking QUICKLY, which will slow you down considerably,
and may induce a spin.
So ARM takes care of the "heel/toe" need, by revving the engine for you.
Of course, this (blipping the throttle) is not needed for upshifting.
You are already at high revs in a gear and are shifting to a higher gear, to enable
subsequent acceleration. So letting the engine revs come down a bit for upshifts is
just normal.
This is how it works for me... and it works just fine.
But I am so used to heel/toe, I don't really need/use the ARM.
That is, you press the brake with your toe, and press the accelerator with your heel,
and at the same time, you have depressed the clutch, and are shifting to a lower gear.
This is all done "in concert" (together).
The whole idea of course, is to rev the engine higher when letting out the clutch,
so the lower gear you are shifting to will be matched nicely with appropriate
engine revs.
If you don't "blip" the engine, then when you release the clutch in the lower gear,
you are introducing engine braking QUICKLY, which will slow you down considerably,
and may induce a spin.
So ARM takes care of the "heel/toe" need, by revving the engine for you.
Of course, this (blipping the throttle) is not needed for upshifting.
You are already at high revs in a gear and are shifting to a higher gear, to enable
subsequent acceleration. So letting the engine revs come down a bit for upshifts is
just normal.
This is how it works for me... and it works just fine.
But I am so used to heel/toe, I don't really need/use the ARM.
08-14-2015, 12:15 AM
#16
Drifting
Factory rev matching?
Originally Posted by froggy47
Love to see that video.
One of my Waterford hills videos has a good full throttle up shift to second though.
08-14-2015, 12:18 AM
#17
Drifting
Factory rev matching?
.
AutoX, are you saying the programming holds rpm for the shift as opposed to jamming the tranny in gear while rpm's climb as with the old power shifting?[/quote]
Yes, that's precisely what I'm saying. If you don't shift over 6200, it usually results in a bad wheel spin situation. Done right, it's quite fast and smooth. I usually only do it on the 1-2 up shift and 3-4. 2-3 up shift becomes more difficult under constant load.
AutoX, are you saying the programming holds rpm for the shift as opposed to jamming the tranny in gear while rpm's climb as with the old power shifting?[/quote]
Yes, that's precisely what I'm saying. If you don't shift over 6200, it usually results in a bad wheel spin situation. Done right, it's quite fast and smooth. I usually only do it on the 1-2 up shift and 3-4. 2-3 up shift becomes more difficult under constant load.
08-14-2015, 12:22 AM
#18
Drifting
Factory rev matching?
Originally Posted by NTMD8R
In general, when doing road racing (HPDE), you do a "heel/toe" down shift.
That is, you press the brake with your toe, and press the accelerator with your heel,
and at the same time, you have depressed the clutch, and are shifting to a lower gear.
This is all done "in concert" (together).
The whole idea of course, is to rev the engine higher when letting out the clutch,
so the lower gear you are shifting to will be matched nicely with appropriate
engine revs.
If you don't "blip" the engine, then when you release the clutch in the lower gear,
you are introducing engine braking QUICKLY, which will slow you down considerably,
and may induce a spin.
So ARM takes care of the "heel/toe" need, by revving the engine for you.
Of course, this (blipping the throttle) is not needed for upshifting.
You are already at high revs in a gear and are shifting to a higher gear, to enable
subsequent acceleration. So letting the engine revs come down a bit for upshifts is
just normal.
This is how it works for me... and it works just fine.
But I am so used to heel/toe, I don't really need/use the ARM.
That is, you press the brake with your toe, and press the accelerator with your heel,
and at the same time, you have depressed the clutch, and are shifting to a lower gear.
This is all done "in concert" (together).
The whole idea of course, is to rev the engine higher when letting out the clutch,
so the lower gear you are shifting to will be matched nicely with appropriate
engine revs.
If you don't "blip" the engine, then when you release the clutch in the lower gear,
you are introducing engine braking QUICKLY, which will slow you down considerably,
and may induce a spin.
So ARM takes care of the "heel/toe" need, by revving the engine for you.
Of course, this (blipping the throttle) is not needed for upshifting.
You are already at high revs in a gear and are shifting to a higher gear, to enable
subsequent acceleration. So letting the engine revs come down a bit for upshifts is
just normal.
This is how it works for me... and it works just fine.
But I am so used to heel/toe, I don't really need/use the ARM.
I will say that the arm program improved greatly when I had the car tuned. Not sure why but it's much more consistent and the timing seems better suited to me.
08-15-2015, 06:42 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
In general, when doing road racing (HPDE), you do a "heel/toe" down shift.
That is, you press the brake with your toe, and press the accelerator with your heel,
and at the same time, you have depressed the clutch, and are shifting to a lower gear.
This is all done "in concert" (together).
The whole idea of course, is to rev the engine higher when letting out the clutch,
so the lower gear you are shifting to will be matched nicely with appropriate
engine revs.
If you don't "blip" the engine, then when you release the clutch in the lower gear,
you are introducing engine braking QUICKLY, which will slow you down considerably,
and may induce a spin.
So ARM takes care of the "heel/toe" need, by revving the engine for you.
Of course, this (blipping the throttle) is not needed for upshifting.
You are already at high revs in a gear and are shifting to a higher gear, to enable
subsequent acceleration. So letting the engine revs come down a bit for upshifts is
just normal.
This is how it works for me... and it works just fine.
But I am so used to heel/toe, I don't really need/use the ARM.
That is, you press the brake with your toe, and press the accelerator with your heel,
and at the same time, you have depressed the clutch, and are shifting to a lower gear.
This is all done "in concert" (together).
The whole idea of course, is to rev the engine higher when letting out the clutch,
so the lower gear you are shifting to will be matched nicely with appropriate
engine revs.
If you don't "blip" the engine, then when you release the clutch in the lower gear,
you are introducing engine braking QUICKLY, which will slow you down considerably,
and may induce a spin.
So ARM takes care of the "heel/toe" need, by revving the engine for you.
Of course, this (blipping the throttle) is not needed for upshifting.
You are already at high revs in a gear and are shifting to a higher gear, to enable
subsequent acceleration. So letting the engine revs come down a bit for upshifts is
just normal.
This is how it works for me... and it works just fine.
But I am so used to heel/toe, I don't really need/use the ARM.
Not needed if you can drive.
08-16-2015, 12:45 AM
#20
Drifting
Factory rev matching?
Originally Posted by Bluefire
Not needed if you can drive.I should also mention that when my car was tuned, the arm was adjusted and improved.