Rear hubs
08-22-2015, 09:21 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Rear hubs
Couple of questions
Noticed my drivers rear bearing is toast.
Do I replace with the SKF HD or OEM timkin? I don't want to have to do this often so I don't mind spending the extra money if they are worth it.
Also, do I replace both rears at the same time? Do the fronts go out often also?
Not having a good day between the brakes needing rebuilt and finding this
Noticed my drivers rear bearing is toast.
Do I replace with the SKF HD or OEM timkin? I don't want to have to do this often so I don't mind spending the extra money if they are worth it.
Also, do I replace both rears at the same time? Do the fronts go out often also?
Not having a good day between the brakes needing rebuilt and finding this
08-22-2015, 09:37 PM
#2
Pro
If you want to do it with the least amount of frequency, pop for the SKFs. I did all mine as they went. All 4 of mine went in the same season though, so if one is going bad the others may not be far behind.
08-22-2015, 09:51 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
The SKF's are the only prudent replacement for a track car or a car that sees regular track use. You won't want to hear this...but if you lost a rear, I'd do all 4. The other rear can't be far behind and the fronts typically go first. What tires are you running and is the car with the wing in your avatar the car in question?
08-22-2015, 09:55 PM
#4
Race Director
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The OEM bearings have been known to shatter completely apart. It is something that anyone tracking a car should remedy immediately. SKF's are the only bearing to put on track. While you are at it, get the ARP longer studs, too. You will eventually need them with brake caliper upgrades.
08-22-2015, 10:11 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Rear hubs
I figured that.
Can I swap my arp studs or do I need to buy all new studs?
Car is run on r compound tires. Doesn't see the street only the track.
Thanks guys.
Can I swap my arp studs or do I need to buy all new studs?
Car is run on r compound tires. Doesn't see the street only the track.
Thanks guys.
08-22-2015, 11:03 PM
#6
Race Director
There are two skf part numbers. A track car should use the race bearings, My car I used the regular skf. As for doing them all, well, I did my rr about 10k miles ago & the other 3 are still fine. If money is no object do them all, otherwise .....
08-23-2015, 01:52 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Rear hubs
Originally Posted by ZedO6
The SKF's are the only prudent replacement for a track car or a car that sees regular track use. You won't want to hear this...but if you lost a rear, I'd do all 4. The other rear can't be far behind and the fronts typically go first. What tires are you running and is the car with the wing in your avatar the car in question?
08-23-2015, 02:36 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
08-23-2015, 03:27 PM
#10
Pro
If all of your hubs are original, I'd go for SKFs on all four corners. I started running R comps a couple years ago. Early last year, my left front started to get a bit loose, then the left rear, then the right front, so I put on four new SKFs. I don't see a reason why you couldn't reuse your ARP studs. I pushed out the studs that came with the SKF hubs and put in the ARPs.
08-23-2015, 03:45 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
"It's not uncommon to use a MIG welder and tack the stud head from the back to the hub to keep them from turning."
First I have heard of this approach. Yes it will keep it from turning, but have not heard of that being a problem. If tack welded, it WILL be a problem when you have to change a broken stud at the track or in your garage. That is a more common experience.
First I have heard of this approach. Yes it will keep it from turning, but have not heard of that being a problem. If tack welded, it WILL be a problem when you have to change a broken stud at the track or in your garage. That is a more common experience.
08-23-2015, 03:51 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
"It's not uncommon to use a MIG welder and tack the stud head from the back to the hub to keep them from turning."
First I have heard of this approach. Yes it will keep it from turning, but have not heard of that being a problem. If tack welded, it WILL be a problem when you have to change a broken stud at the track or in your garage. That is a more common experience.
First I have heard of this approach. Yes it will keep it from turning, but have not heard of that being a problem. If tack welded, it WILL be a problem when you have to change a broken stud at the track or in your garage. That is a more common experience.
Have you been breaking wheel studs at the track? A tack weld can be ground off quickly and it will positively prevent the stud from turning in the hub. Ever had a wheel stud spline strip at the track? I'd say that's a bigger problem than a 1/2" tack weld.
The OP is asking if the splines on his studs on his current hubs will be compromised if he reuses them. I offered a solution.
Last edited by ZedO6; 08-23-2015 at 04:39 PM.
08-23-2015, 07:58 PM
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the tips guys. Where should I get the SKF race bearings from?
On a side note the deeper I get the more problems I find. All 4 ball joints and both tie rod end boots are torn. Seems like they were that way when I bought the car. There was aluminum tape over them and underneath there was RTV sealant on top of tears. All 6 have tears. Looks like the job just got harder
On a side note the deeper I get the more problems I find. All 4 ball joints and both tie rod end boots are torn. Seems like they were that way when I bought the car. There was aluminum tape over them and underneath there was RTV sealant on top of tears. All 6 have tears. Looks like the job just got harder
08-23-2015, 10:39 PM
#15
Race Director
Thanks for all the tips guys. Where should I get the SKF race bearings from?
On a side note the deeper I get the more problems I find. All 4 ball joints and both tie rod end boots are torn. Seems like they were that way when I bought the car. There was aluminum tape over them and underneath there was RTV sealant on top of tears. All 6 have tears. Looks like the job just got harder
On a side note the deeper I get the more problems I find. All 4 ball joints and both tie rod end boots are torn. Seems like they were that way when I bought the car. There was aluminum tape over them and underneath there was RTV sealant on top of tears. All 6 have tears. Looks like the job just got harder
You can buy new boots, so I hear, Energy Suspension maybe??
08-24-2015, 10:28 AM
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
08-24-2015, 10:44 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
I tore ball joint boot and ordered ES "replacement"... don't like the fit. Doesn't seal well or flex enough IMO. Froggy recommended silicone tape which works great.
Edit: can also use a grease needle thru the tear to make sure it's full.
Edit: can also use a grease needle thru the tear to make sure it's full.
Last edited by Joshboody; 08-24-2015 at 10:47 AM.
08-24-2015, 11:06 AM
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks again
Pete
08-24-2015, 01:44 PM
#19
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
This is what I can tell you we have seen for life out of the bearings.
The first World Challenge Vette's could go 5-10 hrs of on track time before needing to be replaced. The GM race bearings could almost double that to 10-15 hrs. By the time the SKF bearings were out, we had already moved from DOT tires to slicks in all of the series so there is a bit more load on them but even with that we could go almost 40 hrs of track time before needing to replace them which is almost 4 times of that on the GM race bearings.
Besides the life increase on the bearing the flange is also much stronger than the OEM piece to.
GM at least figured that out on the ZR1 because SKF does all of the OEM bearings now starting with the C6ZR1 (notice these bearings from the 2009+ cars do not interchange with the 1997-2008 cars).
We have tons on the shelf and do forum discounts on them as well.
The first World Challenge Vette's could go 5-10 hrs of on track time before needing to be replaced. The GM race bearings could almost double that to 10-15 hrs. By the time the SKF bearings were out, we had already moved from DOT tires to slicks in all of the series so there is a bit more load on them but even with that we could go almost 40 hrs of track time before needing to replace them which is almost 4 times of that on the GM race bearings.
Besides the life increase on the bearing the flange is also much stronger than the OEM piece to.
GM at least figured that out on the ZR1 because SKF does all of the OEM bearings now starting with the C6ZR1 (notice these bearings from the 2009+ cars do not interchange with the 1997-2008 cars).
We have tons on the shelf and do forum discounts on them as well.
08-24-2015, 02:15 PM
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Rear hubs
Originally Posted by Anthony @ LGMotorsports
This is what I can tell you we have seen for life out of the bearings.
The first World Challenge Vette's could go 5-10 hrs of on track time before needing to be replaced. The GM race bearings could almost double that to 10-15 hrs. By the time the SKF bearings were out, we had already moved from DOT tires to slicks in all of the series so there is a bit more load on them but even with that we could go almost 40 hrs of track time before needing to replace them which is almost 4 times of that on the GM race bearings.
Besides the life increase on the bearing the flange is also much stronger than the OEM piece to.
GM at least figured that out on the ZR1 because SKF does all of the OEM bearings now starting with the C6ZR1 (notice these bearings from the 2009+ cars do not interchange with the 1997-2008 cars).
We have tons on the shelf and do forum discounts on them as well.
The first World Challenge Vette's could go 5-10 hrs of on track time before needing to be replaced. The GM race bearings could almost double that to 10-15 hrs. By the time the SKF bearings were out, we had already moved from DOT tires to slicks in all of the series so there is a bit more load on them but even with that we could go almost 40 hrs of track time before needing to replace them which is almost 4 times of that on the GM race bearings.
Besides the life increase on the bearing the flange is also much stronger than the OEM piece to.
GM at least figured that out on the ZR1 because SKF does all of the OEM bearings now starting with the C6ZR1 (notice these bearings from the 2009+ cars do not interchange with the 1997-2008 cars).
We have tons on the shelf and do forum discounts on them as well.
Thanks
Pete