Joshboody

Have an event next weekend 3hr away and today noticed slight slop in 1 rear hub... also seems I have minor looseness in both rear tie rods. Have NOT noticed anything on the street and last event I'm sure they were like this with car performing great (except for some brake drag).

Really want to attend this event, but don't have time to swap beforehand. What do you think?

SouthernSon

Never go to a track event, for that matter - driving on the street, with ANYTHING loose on the axles. Have you ever seen the wrecker hauling a wrecked/total vehicle off the track? (rhetorical). With anything loose, you have just stepped to the front of the line to be the next one.

Have you got another suitable vehicle? Respect your instructor and fellow event drivers if not yourself.

moose.b3

Hell no

ErnieN85

no way

SunnydayDILYSI

Not a good idea. Would not pass a tech inspection if done properly. Not worth the risk to yourself and others.

CHJ In Virginia

Fix problems or DO NOT GO !! Tech inspection would probably find the bad hub and not let you run. Your safety and the safety of others depends on running properly maintained equipment.

SouthernSon

Okay, I get it. We all fell for the joke!

slop in a rear hub
looseness in both tie rods
sure they were like this last event
some brake drag

Good one! But, you have to forgive us for buying in on this post because there really are folks that would show up at events with these conditions and never think twice about it! I have seen them.

Good one!!!

(I assume this takes care of both scenarios)

Joshboody

Ha, thanks for knocking me straight. I was thinking potentially there's a tolerance in-between no play and bad... no experience yet with what's considered "bad". And likely I've been running like this for some time.

But the fronts (new) have no play at all, so I can see any play being considered bad.

SouthernSon

Okay, let me back track. I see you are really looking for some guidance from those with experience. Your perspective is not that far off from others that are just beginning. We were there once, too. It is so easy to simply pay your entrance fee, show up with great anticipation for a fun track day but not commanding the same knowledge as those more experienced with all things 'track'. For your immediate maintenance I would suggest replacing with SKF bearings. Get some new tie rod ends and rebuild the calipers with new seals in the bores. Lube the caliper bracket pins so the calipers can move freely. Ask the event organizer for this up coming event if you can get a credit for the next one or, at least, a discount. There will be better days for you if you exercise good prudence.

SpedRacr93

Jacking the wheel up and shaking the tire at 6 and 12 is not how you determine if a bearing is out of tolerance.

Check the runout with a dial indicator.

Joshboody

I figured it was pretty rudimentary, but there's a diff between the other 3. So I'm changing both rears.

3 and 9 there's some play (noise when rocked) and torn tie rod boots on both rears, so I'm going to change the outers. With the wheel on the ground and grabbing the inner they seem solid, so hopefully just the outer. These parts are likely original with 100k miles.
Afterwards I'll learn a lot in good/bad feel.

ponycar

I use the aluminum heating/cooling tape from the home repair store to cover the rear outer tie rod boots. I put a strip vertically over the end, not to tightly. There is very little movement so the rears won't tear the tape if you leave a bit of play in the application. This is effective in preventing the boots from deteriorating. Running R comps or slicks will cause the tie rod ends to wear rapidly. The heat ruins the boots quickly.

harrydirty

To the OP, the important things are:

1. You checked your car
2. You noticed some possible issues
3. You questioned others who might know more and give some opinions/advice

That shows good judgement..........bad/no judgement is just gassing up the car, checking the tires for condition, and showing up at the track.

SouthernSon

Josh, while a cold bearing may not have any play at all while in the garage, a hot one can develop a lot of slop on the track. I have discovered a bad OEM bearing by the 'knock back' of the brake pads from the deflection of the assembly against my fixed Wilwood calipers. The brake pedal requires a longer stroke to take up slack. You might notice this after a series of sharp turns.

Joshboody

I did have some bad rear brake drag last event and I'm hoping the hub play was the cause, because I found no brake hardware issue. Initially I was thinking it was the heated "cheapish" rotor.

SouthernSon

If you don't know when or if the rear calipers were refurbished then you might consider doing those, too. It simply requires a little scotch brite pad in the bores and a new rubber seal inside. Don't worry about the rubber dust boot. The boots are difficult to replace and burn up on the track anyway. If the seal is old and hardened the piston will drag and cause cracked rotors.