C5Z06 wheel/lug nut question
#1
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Posts: 18,346
Received 767 Likes
on
549 Posts
C5Z06 wheel/lug nut question
Was installing my C5Z wheels for a track weekend and had a problem getting one of the lug nuts torqued (torque wrench kept turning) on the front 17" wheel. I took the wheel off to check if the stud had stripped or yielded, but it looked okay, along with the lug nut threads. What I did see was that the wheel cup (where the lug nut nests in) had "cratered", with a slight lip where material had raised. The other four cups looked perfectly normal (torque at the time was 94#). Do I have a wheel quality/safety issue, or is this an occasional happening with aluminum wheels? I just hadn't run into this issue before on my other aluminum wheels.
Thanks for any helpful information.
Thanks for any helpful information.
#2
Race Director
Was installing my C5Z wheels for a track weekend and had a problem getting one of the lug nuts torqued (torque wrench kept turning) on the front 17" wheel. I took the wheel off to check if the stud had stripped or yielded, but it looked okay, along with the lug nut threads. What I did see was that the wheel cup (where the lug nut nests in) had "cratered", with a slight lip where material had raised. The other four cups looked perfectly normal (torque at the time was 94#). Do I have a wheel quality/safety issue, or is this an occasional happening with aluminum wheels? I just hadn't run into this issue before on my other aluminum wheels.
Thanks for any helpful information.
Thanks for any helpful information.
Do not go on track if you can't torque a lug nut.
Pictures help.
#3
Was installing my C5Z wheels for a track weekend and had a problem getting one of the lug nuts torqued (torque wrench kept turning) on the front 17" wheel. I took the wheel off to check if the stud had stripped or yielded, but it looked okay, along with the lug nut threads. What I did see was that the wheel cup (where the lug nut nests in) had "cratered", with a slight lip where material had raised. The other four cups looked perfectly normal (torque at the time was 94#). Do I have a wheel quality/safety issue, or is this an occasional happening with aluminum wheels? I just hadn't run into this issue before on my other aluminum wheels.
Thanks for any helpful information.
Thanks for any helpful information.
#5
Race Director
How old are the nuts, studs?
Clean the nut and the stud with brake cleaner. Try again dry & see if it feels loose.
#6
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Posts: 18,346
Received 767 Likes
on
549 Posts
Next step is to find a magnifying glass and look at the ends of the lug nuts to see if there is a difference on one of them.
#7
Race Director
The only time I ever had that happen was the nut threads stripped out & it was rather obvious.
Wheels without steel inserts will have the "seat" get deformed by repeated tightening of steel nuts onto the somewhat softer metal. I have had galling & since use anti seize to prevent.
Still even if the seat is deformed you should still be able to tighten a wheel on, it's a puzzle.
Wheels without steel inserts will have the "seat" get deformed by repeated tightening of steel nuts onto the somewhat softer metal. I have had galling & since use anti seize to prevent.
Still even if the seat is deformed you should still be able to tighten a wheel on, it's a puzzle.
Last edited by froggy47; 09-11-2015 at 11:45 PM.
#8
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Posts: 18,346
Received 767 Likes
on
549 Posts
Might have the issue figured out.
I took a close look at the lugnuts that came with the (used) wheels, and compared them to another couple of lugnuts I had left over from a previous car ('87 Monte Carlo SS). The present lugnuts have a maximum diameter on the tapered part of about .820". The Monte Carlo lugs (that look like my C4 car stock lugnuts except for the shine) has a diameter of about .910". The Monte Carlo lugnuts fit the C5 wheel bevels very nicely. I don't know what the lugnuts I was using were originally off of, but apparently Chevrolet/GM didn't commonize the lugnut bevel size over the years. Additionally, the lugnuts had a threaded area above the bevel (for phony lug nut attachment I assume), and I believe the threads were the cause of the aluminum displacement.
I'll scrounge up a set of replacement lugnuts, and I should be ready to use the C5 wheels again (although too late for this weekend's track days that I cancelled two days ago).
Not a great picture, but on the stud hole bevel/seat you can see a shiny part where the material was raised up in a crater wall fashion. The other four seats look somewhat normal.
I'll scrounge up a set of replacement lugnuts, and I should be ready to use the C5 wheels again (although too late for this weekend's track days that I cancelled two days ago).
Not a great picture, but on the stud hole bevel/seat you can see a shiny part where the material was raised up in a crater wall fashion. The other four seats look somewhat normal.
#9
Race Director
I see it, but still, I cannot think that the difference between that seat & the others would be the reason for a nut to not be able to meet a torque spec.
Torque is torque unless threads are stripping out.
Keep us posted.
Never heard of wheels being sold with lugnuts, that's a new one to me.
Torque is torque unless threads are stripping out.
Keep us posted.
Never heard of wheels being sold with lugnuts, that's a new one to me.
#10
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Posts: 18,346
Received 767 Likes
on
549 Posts
[QUOTE=froggy47;1590472901]I see it, but still, I cannot think that the difference between that seat & the others would be the reason for a nut to not be able to meet a torque spec.
Torque is torque unless threads are stripping out.
Keep us posted.
Never heard of wheels being sold with lugnuts, that's a new one to me.[/QUOTE]
They were ten year old Z06 wheels at the time, and the seller threw in the lugnuts he was using.
Torque is torque unless threads are stripping out.
Keep us posted.
Never heard of wheels being sold with lugnuts, that's a new one to me.[/QUOTE]
They were ten year old Z06 wheels at the time, and the seller threw in the lugnuts he was using.
#11
Race Director
[QUOTE=69427;1590474548]
I have 4 sets of those, I get new lug nuts every year to 2 years. They do wear if you are swapping wheels a lot. One of the vendors has new ti nuts for about $6 each, I'm thinking of trying those just for fun.
With that wear showing on the seat, I would use anti sieze IIWM and back the tq to 90.
I think your nuts are worn & it's just hard to tell. Buy new ones & try them
I see it, but still, I cannot think that the difference between that seat & the others would be the reason for a nut to not be able to meet a torque spec.
Torque is torque unless threads are stripping out.
Keep us posted.
Never heard of wheels being sold with lugnuts, that's a new one to me.[/QUOTE]
They were ten year old Z06 wheels at the time, and the seller threw in the lugnuts he was using.
Torque is torque unless threads are stripping out.
Keep us posted.
Never heard of wheels being sold with lugnuts, that's a new one to me.[/QUOTE]
They were ten year old Z06 wheels at the time, and the seller threw in the lugnuts he was using.
With that wear showing on the seat, I would use anti sieze IIWM and back the tq to 90.
I think your nuts are worn & it's just hard to tell. Buy new ones & try them