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I bought a set of the HD sways for f/r on my C6Z. They came in pieces, which means I have to reset the angles (55/90) between the bars and the end link brackets. In order to do that, I need this little installation tool as pictured below. It slides into the end of the bar and aligns the bracket.
Does anyone have one of these I can barrow to set the angles on my sway bars. I will drive within an hour of Houston any direction to barrow it. I will return it if you want it back. Will bring you beer, whatever. I'll pay for shipping both ways if you want if you aren't local.
I installed a set of those years ago without the tool. It's really not as critical as they make it sound to have the exact degree differential between the bar and the arm. The main thing is to get them the same on both sides and orient them so you have clearance between the bends in the bar and the rest of the chassis when sitting at ride height and with the wheels off the ground.
Visualize the end of the bar and the arm and think of a clock. 3 o'clock = 90 degrees. Therefore 1 o'clock is 30 degrees and 2 o'clock is 60 degrees. So a little less than 2 is going to be 55.
As an alternative, you could count the number of splines and do some math.
Let's assume 72 splines. 360/72 = 5.
Every spline is 5 degrees.
The easiest way to get them the same is to assemble the arms on the bar and lay the assembly flat on the ground, make sure each arm is contacting the floor at the same angle.
Mark the arm and the bar with a sharpie or an electric engraver for orientation and install on the car using those reference marks.
Of course the tool makes it easier to line up the splines on the bar as they go through the arms at a weird angle, that is probably the most challenging part.
I installed a set of those years ago without the tool. It's really not as critical as they make it sound to have the exact degree differential between the bar and the arm. The main thing is to get them the same on both sides and orient them so you have clearance between the bends in the bar and the rest of the chassis when sitting at ride height and with the wheels off the ground.
Visualize the end of the bar and the arm and think of a clock. 3 o'clock = 90 degrees. Therefore 1 o'clock is 30 degrees and 2 o'clock is 60 degrees. So a little less than 2 is going to be 55.
As an alternative, you could count the number of splines and do some math.
Let's assume 72 splines. 360/72 = 5.
Every spline is 5 degrees.
The easiest way to get them the same is to assemble the arms on the bar and lay the assembly flat on the ground, make sure each arm is contacting the floor at the same angle.
Mark the arm and the bar with a sharpie or an electric engraver for orientation and install on the car using those reference marks.
Of course the tool makes it easier to line up the splines on the bar as they go through the arms at a weird angle, that is probably the most challenging part.
Hope this helps.............
Just set it up and drive it, look at the clearance, etc. Once you have it right I would weld it as the original design is weak. I think if you can weld it it'll be ok.
I installed a set of those years ago without the tool. It's really not as critical as they make it sound to have the exact degree differential between the bar and the arm. The main thing is to get them the same on both sides and orient them so you have clearance between the bends in the bar and the rest of the chassis when sitting at ride height and with the wheels off the ground.
Visualize the end of the bar and the arm and think of a clock. 3 o'clock = 90 degrees. Therefore 1 o'clock is 30 degrees and 2 o'clock is 60 degrees. So a little less than 2 is going to be 55.
As an alternative, you could count the number of splines and do some math.
Let's assume 72 splines. 360/72 = 5.
Every spline is 5 degrees.
The easiest way to get them the same is to assemble the arms on the bar and lay the assembly flat on the ground, make sure each arm is contacting the floor at the same angle.
Mark the arm and the bar with a sharpie or an electric engraver for orientation and install on the car using those reference marks.
Of course the tool makes it easier to line up the splines on the bar as they go through the arms at a weird angle, that is probably the most challenging part.
I have the tool and you can have it. I would be happy to send it to you. Also the bars work just fine!! there are lots of them out there being used Although some had problems, most work great. I used them on several cars and there are still many in use for both street and tracking including race cars. Give me a call 772 335 8318 Jim Dillon
I've had a set front and back for 6 years now. They are the lights. Aarron Pfadt replaced the front bar and a new arm for free after the arm cracked on one side. My original sets were sent to me without the arms installed in Utah and I recall having difficulty engaging the splined teeth with the bar. When lined up properly, they will go on as smoothly as sliding a cube of warm butter onto the bar (but not sure who would want to do that). If your off by a smidgen it will not slip on easily. As the instructions state, do not force. All in all, other than racing seat, brake pads and rotors, using stiffer sway bars was one of my most notable and best upgrades I've done to my '08 C6. However, the healthiest upgrade for the motor was an Acusump, ZO6 oil cooler, big radiator and power steering radiator.
Your sways should work fine.
I don't know if they've since updated the collars, but if your bars came with the small aluminum collars with the little lock screw for keeping the bar centered, then before you assemble them I highly recommend upgrading to heavier duty aluminum shaft collars from McMaster or sway bar clamps/lateral locks from a stock car/circle track supplier that use a beefier pinch bolt design. My HD Pfadt bars have never had any problems except for those collars slipping which allows the bar to shift sideways, which if it slips far enough will cause the links to get bent. On my Z06, the arms and links on the rear bar sit at the correct angle and it works like it should - don't know which application (C5 maybe?) that had the rear bar at that strange high angle that others have mentioned.
Example of better clamps:
My Z came with the Pfadt bars... the rear links were so long that the arm angle was about 60 Degrees when at ride height. I bought some generic heim joints, shortened them as much as possible... angle is still steeper than it should be, but OK enough to work.
Trial and error orientation at the rear, to set the bar offset with maximum clearance from the mufflers at normal ride height.
The splines are stiff off and on... spreading the pinch slot open a little with a chisel makes them slide much easier. They seem totally workable, but haven't had the car out to the track yet to see.
09-25-2015, 04:57 PM
Pfadt Sway Bar Help
