Alignment going out of wack after braking
10-22-2015, 01:00 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Alignment going out of wack after braking
Would post this in C5 tech but that forum seems to only be helpful these days you're interested in adding HIDs or don't know how to check CEL codes.
2002 C5 Z06 - Got wheel aligned about a month ago, noticed yesterday after leaving work that my steering wheel was no longer centered with the car going straight, it was about 10 degrees to the left. Upon making a right turn, it went back to being centered. Then on braking it goes off center again until my next right turn. Haven't had a chance to take a peek under the car although I did jack it up yesterday night and tried to feel for any wiggle in the wheels and everything seemed normal. I'm assuming it's just going to be an alignment bolt that came loose and shifting around with the lateral load from right turns and under braking but open to suggestions as to other things I should inspect when I go under tonight. I didn't see any of the wheels looking too strange when I pulled over yesterday on the way home.
2002 C5 Z06 - Got wheel aligned about a month ago, noticed yesterday after leaving work that my steering wheel was no longer centered with the car going straight, it was about 10 degrees to the left. Upon making a right turn, it went back to being centered. Then on braking it goes off center again until my next right turn. Haven't had a chance to take a peek under the car although I did jack it up yesterday night and tried to feel for any wiggle in the wheels and everything seemed normal. I'm assuming it's just going to be an alignment bolt that came loose and shifting around with the lateral load from right turns and under braking but open to suggestions as to other things I should inspect when I go under tonight. I didn't see any of the wheels looking too strange when I pulled over yesterday on the way home.
10-22-2015, 01:27 PM
#2
Tech Contributor
Check the upper and lower a-arm bushings. They like to walk which messes with the alignment.
10-22-2015, 02:29 PM
#3
Race Director
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Take it back to alignment shop and put it on the rack. Don't let the tech tell you it is something worn out and not his fault. If he does, tell him he should have noticed and not charged you for an alignment until repaired. Let him show you the problem. Maybe it simply came loose and he will own up to it.
10-22-2015, 03:40 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yep, I have the lifetime alignment. And my local firestones will do custom specs. So I'm definitely going to go back but I want to take a look for anything amiss before I do.
10-22-2015, 03:52 PM
#6
As you say, sounds like one of the cam bolts on a front LCA is slipping.
If you figure out which one is loose you can jack up that corner, adjust it to mirror the other side of the car and torque it down. Then drive to the alignment shop to get things actually fixed.
If you figure out which one is loose you can jack up that corner, adjust it to mirror the other side of the car and torque it down. Then drive to the alignment shop to get things actually fixed.
10-22-2015, 04:50 PM
#8
Factory spec's on torque for LCA bolts are somewhat "light". What wtb-z said, I'd start there.
I've heard track and autocross guys have slipped their bolts during events, too.
AFAIK, you can tighten those bolts beyond factory torque spec's with no or little ill effects, except that it might be a pain to loosen them for the next alignment.
I've heard track and autocross guys have slipped their bolts during events, too.
AFAIK, you can tighten those bolts beyond factory torque spec's with no or little ill effects, except that it might be a pain to loosen them for the next alignment.
10-22-2015, 05:17 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
Factory spec's on torque for LCA bolts are somewhat "light". What wtb-z said, I'd start there.
I've heard track and autocross guys have slipped their bolts during events, too.
AFAIK, you can tighten those bolts beyond factory torque spec's with no or little ill effects, except that it might be a pain to loosen them for the next alignment.
I've heard track and autocross guys have slipped their bolts during events, too.
AFAIK, you can tighten those bolts beyond factory torque spec's with no or little ill effects, except that it might be a pain to loosen them for the next alignment.
Had a corner balance and alignment done at Phoenix and they told me the same thing regarding the LCA bolts.
10-22-2015, 05:18 PM
#11
Factory spec's on torque for LCA bolts are somewhat "light". What wtb-z said, I'd start there.
I've heard track and autocross guys have slipped their bolts during events, too.
AFAIK, you can tighten those bolts beyond factory torque spec's with no or little ill effects, except that it might be a pain to loosen them for the next alignment.
I've heard track and autocross guys have slipped their bolts during events, too.
AFAIK, you can tighten those bolts beyond factory torque spec's with no or little ill effects, except that it might be a pain to loosen them for the next alignment.
The problems always have been when the alignment guy doesn't use a torque wrench and the bolts are set to a mystery value. And then I got the same issues as the OP.
It is a pain to badger alignment guys into using a torque wrench, but it is even worse to have the bolt slip later - although I always mark them now.
10-22-2015, 06:26 PM
#12
Supporting Vendor
Next time have them mark the cam bolt to the cradles and tighten the hell out of them. Screw GM spec, not enough.
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More options than any other single company out there. More parts than any other single company I know: Brakes to Safety, Wheels to Exhaust. Suspension to Air Filters: Girodisc, Hawk, Raybestos, Essex Racing/AP, Ferodo, Wilwood, Penske, Koni, Borg Motorsport, Ridetech, Viking, After Dark Speed, Hotchkis, Bilstein, KW, Forgestar, BC Forged, Forgeline, MRR Wheels and on, and on, and on it goes.
10-23-2015, 02:31 PM
#15
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I would tend to agree with the others....probably a cam bolt that isn't tight on a control arm.
Could be one of the bushings in the rack is broken or it could be loose, but I figured you would have seen that when you had the car up in the air...but if the rack isn't tight it will do that....as would the bolt holding the steering shaft into the rack if it isn't tight too.
Could be one of the bushings in the rack is broken or it could be loose, but I figured you would have seen that when you had the car up in the air...but if the rack isn't tight it will do that....as would the bolt holding the steering shaft into the rack if it isn't tight too.
10-23-2015, 02:45 PM
#16
That's more than the bushings moving around. wtb-z is mostly likely dead on. Folks never seem to get things tight enough, seen more slipped cam/eccentrics than I could shake a stick at. I'm 100% sure that's what you'll find happened.
Next time have them mark the cam bolt to the cradles and tighten the hell out of them. Screw GM spec, not enough.
Next time have them mark the cam bolt to the cradles and tighten the hell out of them. Screw GM spec, not enough.
10-24-2015, 10:58 AM
#19
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
If it was very loose....that could have been more than a handful on track or at speed.
