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No, the pad on the left is too thin. I'd go with another box of pads in the trunk, run it to metal (or as soon as the pedal feels at all "off") then pit on knowing you have to swap pads at the track. I would personally never do a track day without a set of backup pads in hand.
No, the pad on the left is too thin. I'd go with another box of pads in the trunk, run it to metal (or as soon as the pedal feels at all "off") then pit on knowing you have to swap pads at the track. I would personally never do a track day without a set of backup pads in hand.
Got a new box of pads already. Was just seeing how much more I could squeeze out of these
DTC70 with oem rotors on Toyo R888's. One more track day?
Short Answer: NO
Long Answer: It appears that's a snap shot from the front rotor. I don't begin a multi-session event with my pads lower than 6mm for the front and 4mm for the rears. (C6 GS) I bought a inexpensive digital caliper reader which has allowed me to measure and track my brake pad wear. Also remember on the Z06/GS inside pads wear slightly slower than the outside. I tend to swap pad around to extend the overall life of a set.
Long Answer: It appears that's a snap shot from the front rotor. I don't begin a multi-session event with my pads lower than 6mm for the front and 4mm for the rears. (C6 GS) I bought a inexpensive digital caliper reader which has allowed me to measure and track my brake pad wear. Also remember on the Z06/GS inside pads wear slightly slower than the outside. I tend to swap pad around to extend the overall life of a set.
Pads are trash.
Given the look of that rotor its never getting very hot?
Not lately. They had some bluing before from the track but a couple months of street driving "milled" them down I guess lol. My son just turned 11mo so finally after a little while I'm gonna hit the track again.
Generally, you will see cracks between the drilled holes and/or cracks starting to jet out to the edges of the rotor before they crack all the way through (if you track hard, cracks tend to come well before min thickness). If you can catch a finger nail on the crack or see it come within 1/4 inch of the edge of the rotor, toss it. If you plan to do significant track time, go with solid or slotted rotors. Drilled tend to crack much faster.
Agree with Truth regarding min pad thickness. Brakes are the last place where you want to take a risk. I generally swap my pads if they are more than 50% worn. Let me know if you want my take offs (I have a pile of them) .
Generally, you will see cracks between the drilled holes and/or cracks starting to jet out to the edges of the rotor before they crack all the way through (if you track hard, cracks tend to come well before min thickness). If you can catch a finger nail on the crack or see it come within 1/4 inch of the edge of the rotor, toss it. If you plan to do significant track time, go with solid or slotted rotors. Drilled tend to crack much faster.
Agree with Truth regarding min pad thickness. Brakes are the last place where you want to take a risk. I generally swap my pads if they are more than 50% worn. Let me know if you want my take offs (I have a pile of them) .
Thanks. Ive been using Autozone rotors since I get them for $60ea so they're no biggie to replace but I just wanna get the most out of them. I've heard good things about the NAPAs so I may try them next. Yeah lmk about your take offs. I'm sure I can use them for autocross. Thanks again
I kept the rotors on but I put on the new pads today. They can be a pain to remove and I don't want the hassle while I'm at the track.
I laid a quarter against the the face of the rotor and it was almost flush with the lip on the edge. Still alright?
A quarter is 0.07". Gap between new and discard thickness on the C5 is 0.07". I'm not sure what the gap between new and discard is on C6 Z06, but I'd be surprised if it is drastically different. If you track them, I'd watch them closely and have some spares on hand. Do you have stock c5 / C6 calipers in the back, or are those C6Z calipers as well?
The rotor has a nice little lip at the edge. Just wondering what the minimum thickness.
I'm not sure what a minimum thickness should be nor do I have a recommendation. As the above people have stated I would watch for cracks more so than anything. I see you're in CA and if you're running a track like Laguna which I heard can be brutal on brakes I would be very careful.
My recommendation is be mindful of your trap speeds on the long straights going into heavy braking zones.
For example, at VIR I can trap of roughly 140+ pretty easily on the back straight, flat out I imagine the GS is capable of low 150+. I've chosen limit my traps, brake lil' early, and not throw out the anchor. Doing so limits the amount of heat generated during the braking event and sure I sacrifice the optimal lap time but in the intermediate group I'm usually faster than about 75% of the field plus I'm having fun.
Picture of cracks to watch out for. BTW:This rotor is toast and some people would wait until the cracks have stated connecting but by then I feel it too late and dangerous. Also this rotor had began exhibiting wave pattern due to all the heat cycles. Just so you know, I'm only using this rotor to December when I get a new set of fronts.
Back Straight starts @ 1:40, Braking Zone starts @ 1:59
As you can see I life early and extend the braking zone. If I were to guess this technique is probably costing me 1 second per lap, but it adds a ton of margin just in case something goes wrong and reduces the demand on my consumables... i.e. tires, brakes, rotors, fluid.
A quarter is 0.07". Gap between new and discard thickness on the C5 is 0.07". I'm not sure what the gap between new and discard is on C6 Z06, but I'd be surprised if it is drastically different. If you track them, I'd watch them closely and have some spares on hand. Do you have stock c5 / C6 calipers in the back, or are those C6Z calipers as well?
I'm not sure what a minimum thickness should be nor do I have a recommendation. As the above people have stated I would watch for cracks more so than anything. I see you're in CA and if you're running a track like Laguna which I heard can be brutal on brakes I would be very careful.
My recommendation is be mindful of your trap speeds on the long straights going into heavy braking zones.
For example, at VIR I can trap of roughly 140+ pretty easily on the back straight, flat out I imagine the GS is capable of low 150+. I've chosen limit my traps, brake lil' early, and not throw out the anchor. Doing so limits the amount of heat generated during the braking event and sure I sacrifice the optimal lap time but in the intermediate group I'm usually faster than about 75% of the field plus I'm having fun.
Picture of cracks to watch out for. BTW:This rotor is toast and some people would wait until the cracks have stated connecting but by then I feel it too late and dangerous. Also this rotor had began exhibiting wave pattern due to all the heat cycles. Just so you know, I'm only using this rotor to December when I get a new set of fronts.
Back Straight starts @ 1:40, Braking Zone starts @ 1:59
As you can see I life early and extend the braking zone. If I were to guess this technique is probably costing me 1 second per lap, but it adds a ton of margin just in case something goes wrong and reduces the demand on my consumables... i.e. tires, brakes, rotors, fluid.
Mine look almost the same. They also have those "waves" or ridges. I guess I'll probably pick some up next week instead of waiting for one to crack. At Willow Springs and Fontana I easily exceed 150mph in the straights. I'm at 700rwhp.
10-27-2015, 05:57 PM
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