Adding power for my C5 Z06 Track Car
#1
Adding power for my C5 Z06 Track Car
I run a caged dedicated track car, C5 Z06 in advanced run groups at VIR and Summit Point. The car is basically stock except for brakes and coolers. It seems that many guys have gone for power first. We Have gone for safety and reliability.
If I time the corners leading onto the longest straights so that I am closing on the car in front and carrying good speed onto the straight I am still getting out drag raced by other C5s, Coyote motored Mustangs etc. In addition, going into 5th gear, the car is saved from running at sustained RPMs for too long but the motor gives me nothing at that point. Time for a bit more power.
I have communicated with a couple of shops in Richmond in reference to installing long tube headers, a Honker CAI and getting a 93 octane tune. Justin at Zip advocated eliminating cats and installing the headers as a means to keeping the engine running cooler and safer with a mild, slightly rich tune to keep the engine healthy and make a bit more usable power.
I have no real interest in camming the car. I need reliability. the question is, the headers and tune will eat my off season budget, but if I stretch it, is a FAST intake, different throttle body etc. going to be worth the extra expense prior to the tune. Any suggestions on optimizing my funds. I know big power costs big $$. Any suggestions?
If I time the corners leading onto the longest straights so that I am closing on the car in front and carrying good speed onto the straight I am still getting out drag raced by other C5s, Coyote motored Mustangs etc. In addition, going into 5th gear, the car is saved from running at sustained RPMs for too long but the motor gives me nothing at that point. Time for a bit more power.
I have communicated with a couple of shops in Richmond in reference to installing long tube headers, a Honker CAI and getting a 93 octane tune. Justin at Zip advocated eliminating cats and installing the headers as a means to keeping the engine running cooler and safer with a mild, slightly rich tune to keep the engine healthy and make a bit more usable power.
I have no real interest in camming the car. I need reliability. the question is, the headers and tune will eat my off season budget, but if I stretch it, is a FAST intake, different throttle body etc. going to be worth the extra expense prior to the tune. Any suggestions on optimizing my funds. I know big power costs big $$. Any suggestions?
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jlaw1313@comcast.net (11-22-2015)
#2
Burning Brakes
I run a caged dedicated track car, C5 Z06 in advanced run groups at VIR and Summit Point. The car is basically stock except for brakes and coolers. It seems that many guys have gone for power first. We Have gone for safety and reliability.
If I time the corners leading onto the longest straights so that I am closing on the car in front and carrying good speed onto the straight I am still getting out drag raced by other C5s, Coyote motored Mustangs etc. In addition, going into 5th gear, the car is saved from running at sustained RPMs for too long but the motor gives me nothing at that point. Time for a bit more power.
I have communicated with a couple of shops in Richmond in reference to installing long tube headers, a Honker CAI and getting a 93 octane tune. Justin at Zip advocated eliminating cats and installing the headers as a means to keeping the engine running cooler and safer with a mild, slightly rich tune to keep the engine healthy and make a bit more usable power.
I have no real interest in camming the car. I need reliability. the question is, the headers and tune will eat my off season budget, but if I stretch it, is a FAST intake, different throttle body etc. going to be worth the extra expense prior to the tune. Any suggestions on optimizing my funds. I know big power costs big $$. Any suggestions?
If I time the corners leading onto the longest straights so that I am closing on the car in front and carrying good speed onto the straight I am still getting out drag raced by other C5s, Coyote motored Mustangs etc. In addition, going into 5th gear, the car is saved from running at sustained RPMs for too long but the motor gives me nothing at that point. Time for a bit more power.
I have communicated with a couple of shops in Richmond in reference to installing long tube headers, a Honker CAI and getting a 93 octane tune. Justin at Zip advocated eliminating cats and installing the headers as a means to keeping the engine running cooler and safer with a mild, slightly rich tune to keep the engine healthy and make a bit more usable power.
I have no real interest in camming the car. I need reliability. the question is, the headers and tune will eat my off season budget, but if I stretch it, is a FAST intake, different throttle body etc. going to be worth the extra expense prior to the tune. Any suggestions on optimizing my funds. I know big power costs big $$. Any suggestions?
#3
Justin at Zip advocated eliminating cats and installing the headers as a means to keeping the engine running cooler and safer with a mild, slightly rich tune to keep the engine healthy and make a bit more usable power. is a FAST intake, different throttle body etc. going to be worth the extra expense prior to the tune. Any suggestions on optimizing my funds. I know big power costs big $$. Any suggestions?
#4
Le Mans Master
i don't see why you think doing a cam will loose reliability. especially if its a dedicated track car. doing a 224/224 112 cam will work wonders and it will still drive great. cam is only 400$, plus you can update the lifters, springs, and timing chain. add the headers, lose the cats and it will be a all around better car. a fast intake is the biggest waste of money there is. even for head/big cam cars. not worth 900$ at all.
#5
Drifting
I agree with VGLNTE. I'm running 228/228 @0.588 & 112 and let that motor sing while on the track. So far its been great (three years). Also have long tubes, catless, Corsa, LS2 timing chain, timing chain damper, and home made CAI.
#6
Drifting
I have to ask: What kind of lap times are you turning?
Stock C5Z06 power will take you deep into the low 2:00s at VIR with very little else done to the car. TTA/PTA C5Zs used to turn 2:03s to 2:05s with stock headers and exhaust, a K&N filter, a 370rwhp tune, Hoosiers, brake pads, and sway bars.
IF you really need to add power, long tubes with a midpipe and stock Z06 catback with a K&N air filter, no AC, and a small clutch will give you an easy 390-400rwhp and as much as 420rwhp on a hot tune.
Stock C5Z06 power will take you deep into the low 2:00s at VIR with very little else done to the car. TTA/PTA C5Zs used to turn 2:03s to 2:05s with stock headers and exhaust, a K&N filter, a 370rwhp tune, Hoosiers, brake pads, and sway bars.
IF you really need to add power, long tubes with a midpipe and stock Z06 catback with a K&N air filter, no AC, and a small clutch will give you an easy 390-400rwhp and as much as 420rwhp on a hot tune.
#7
Race Director
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My first power upgrade was the callaway honker intake. I picked up 11hp and 13torque. Longtubes and no cats will add some more. I, and many others, have melted number 7 piston in our LS6's with just a tad too much lean tune. Either tune conservatively or put a little bigger injector in number 7 hole. LS6's will run forever if you don't get too crazy on the mods.
#9
Drifting
pony, slightly rich tune? on my stock c5 pe was in at 0.15 bar and went to to 11.8 afr. if anything you neen a lean tune. also, according to what i have measured, all cais are just b.s. they are louder but dont make you go faster. imho.
#10
Le Mans Master
Another #7 broken here as well.
#11
Melting Slicks
I have headers(no cats) intake and tune...390 to the wheels, the two Boss Mustangs on track with me today at Barber couldn't keep me in the same zip code.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 11-21-2015 at 09:54 PM.
#12
Melting Slicks
Both cars were street tuned.
#13
I appreciate the responses. Much to consider. My lap times on R-comps are quite respectable. The reason I want more power is simply to compliment what I enjoy on the track. When someone out drives me in the corners I am eager to give them a pass even if I have to really back off on the straight. I can always learn something following. Conversely. If I am closing on someone in the corners every lap I would rather they not take my momentum as I come on to the straight, then out drag race me. This is of course a situation we all encounter.
I want more out of the car relative to the other C5s etc. that obviously have more power. As I have stated, it seems most of the Vettes I run with have added power first. It's my turn. All just for fun. The idea of a bigger injector, or other tactic to keep no, 7 cylinder from running too hot interests me.
One reason for not wanting to cam the car is simply that moving my over sized radiator, oil cooler and everything else associated with the process, out of the way to access the cam seems to be a real pain.
I want to make best use of the time and expense invested during the off season to enhance the power delivery of the car.
I want more out of the car relative to the other C5s etc. that obviously have more power. As I have stated, it seems most of the Vettes I run with have added power first. It's my turn. All just for fun. The idea of a bigger injector, or other tactic to keep no, 7 cylinder from running too hot interests me.
One reason for not wanting to cam the car is simply that moving my over sized radiator, oil cooler and everything else associated with the process, out of the way to access the cam seems to be a real pain.
I want to make best use of the time and expense invested during the off season to enhance the power delivery of the car.
Last edited by ponycar; 11-22-2015 at 09:07 AM.
#14
One more cam to consider is the GM Hot Cam. It's 219/228/525/525 on a 112, kit includes blue springs, no lifters, $490 shipped from Summit. You will see about 30 to 40 HP increase with no degradation in reliability. I've run this cam in my dedicated C5 LS6 for 3 years of HDPE and it is a noticeable increase in power at just about every RPM vs the stock '01 cam. Running long tubes, home made cold air box, and a tune.
#15
Drifting
When someone out drives me in the corners I am eager to give them a pass even if I have to really back off on the straight. I can always learn something following. Conversely. If I am closing on someone in the corners every lap I would rather they not take my momentum as I come on to the straight, then out drag race me. This is of course a situation we all encounter.
When I race ST3, the ST2 and ST1 cars get in the way in the corners and drag race me on the straights. When I race ST2, the ST1 and SU cars do the same.
#16
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Relatively speaking, of course. Transmissions and torque tubes need a little refreshing from time to time, too. aarrggghhhh......
The LS6 does have quite a bit better longevity compared to the other LS motors that I have seen at the track over the years. I figure 7 to 8k track miles on my first one before the mods got to be a little too much for it.
The LS6 does have quite a bit better longevity compared to the other LS motors that I have seen at the track over the years. I figure 7 to 8k track miles on my first one before the mods got to be a little too much for it.
#18
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That's interesting as with the change in the smog law here in CA. they don't sniff the tail on 2000 and newer just has to look stock. Now cams like the Gm Hot cam can be used. I know there are better cams but I like it to.
#19
Melting Slicks
One more cam to consider is the GM Hot Cam. It's 219/228/525/525 on a 112, kit includes blue springs, no lifters, $490 shipped from Summit. You will see about 30 to 40 HP increase with no degradation in reliability. I've run this cam in my dedicated C5 LS6 for 3 years of HDPE and it is a noticeable increase in power at just about every RPM vs the stock '01 cam. Running long tubes, home made cold air box, and a tune.
You can put headers, intake, no cats and a tune and make more power than a Hot Cam.
Not trying to argue, cam tech has made huge advances in the last 10 years.
#20
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Other cam considerations:
Bigger means more lift leading to frequent valve spring changes and, generally, significant loss of low end torque. And, as always, consider gearing in the equation. For the street, MPG is also important.
Bigger means more lift leading to frequent valve spring changes and, generally, significant loss of low end torque. And, as always, consider gearing in the equation. For the street, MPG is also important.