C6psi

So I searched many times over the last year to find that only Halltech at one time offered a lighter alternative but not anymore. I can only speculate from my research that the hassle of the CEL since the ECM is very finiky to loosing the proper readings from the Valeo style alternator is why most do not install a C130 style alternator. I have found the following kit that would move the alternator mounting point to the location for the AC compressor. http://www.aeicnc.com/lsx-super-mini...or-kit-rh.html This would benefit many ways for me since it would place the alternator lower on the chassis and shift weight to the lighter passanger side. Also would be able to run a smaller and lighter C130 style alternator. So the question is to what extent will the ECM freak out? Just codes?

The car is caged track only.

UPDATED FOR THOSE SEARCHING!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-48283

This unit will work with the C5 and C6 according to my research since the regulators are the same. The weight difference, according to Powermaster catalog and weight of my OEM atlternator should be 2.5 lbs. This coupled with the swap to the original AC location shifting some weight off the driver side should yeild some nice results.

THANKS FOR THIS POST FROM SPERKINS TO HELP CONFIRM IT ALL

"The alternator is for a late model Chevy Blazer and/or S10 4.3 litre. I can't remember the exact years, but I'm pretty sure it was 2001-2005. I bought mine from O'Reily's. It's a CS130D design and it has the right regulator terminals PLFS so it maintains all the OEM functions. I bought an extension harness from Casper's electronics so I could use the original wiring harness so it literally just plugs in - no cutting or splicing. Just plug it in and run a hot wire to the starter and you're done.

Powermaster makes the same alternator - part #48283. To be honest, one of the guys at Powermaster helped me find the right alternator and I just cross referenced it to one that any auto parts store would have."

93ASP

A small Denso alternator from Race Proven, Brise, Mclaren or equivalent can be adapted onto the C5 and C6 Corvettes especially for a track only car that doesn't have idle charging requirements. I've never used the relocation kit but it's likely that the small alternator can be adapted to the relocated position as well. If you're worried about check engine codes those can be turned off with a tuning program.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

The car is going to be very sensitive to voltage and most of the those small, lightweight ones don't really even turn on until higher RPM"s so it can be a challenge sometimes during cold starts depending on the battery. I know most of the race cars we had to keep on a charger during warm up because the alternator wouldn't be running.

Personally, unless you have gutted it completely there are other things to get weight off that would be more beneficial to the car.

C6psi

It looks like this relocation kit can use the Denso 93MM, CS121(121MM), or the CS130(130MM) style alternators. I should not have much of a draw at idle except for the fan in a scenario where a black flag came out and I came back in to grid. Not much load from the ignition system, fuel system or any thing else at idle I can think of. If I use a CS130 style alternator I can get 85 amps at idle and 105 at full RPM from Power Master and it would weigh 10# which would be a nice 4.5# of weight savings. Not locked into them but just using as an example. I also agree my turner should have no issues deleting the CEL's that come up.

C6psi

Yes Anthony I want to make sure when I hit the ignition it fires off and never fails me due to low voltage. I am already enjoying the weight savings from the Shorai battery at 4.6 lbs and do not want to push my luck. That being said any additional benifits such as better balance and less weight are always welcome. I have read that some of the one wire alternators require 1000-1200 RPMs before they "excite" and start charging. Any particular pitfalls I should stay away from. Like I indicated above I beleive I can get 85 amps at idle and 105 amps at full rpm. Do you think that is enough?

As far as weight saving ideas I am all ears Anthony. Last winter I did the normal weight reduction stuff...
-Full interior removal including 50% of the dash
-All air bags, side glass and gutted doors
-All OEM tar under body panels and in interior
-Full coilover setup, BBK with 2 peice rotors
-Light weight exhaust
-LG WCH
-and so on

This winter some of the things I have done so far....
-Swapped OEM roof for 2lb Carbon fiber skin
-Taken my LG mid pipe and welded all connections to eliminate clamps
-Swapped from GM spring tensioner to manual
-Reduced door hinges weight by 4lbs 12oz
-Gutted motors out of power mirrors
-Trimmed and drilled coil brackets to reduce weight by 1lb 4oz
-Gutted headlamps
-Eliminated parking brake 11lbs 10oz, not/including backing plates

Would love to get any ideas from LG's many years of racing to reduce weight.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

track car only or does it still have to drive on the street?

LateBreak

Is there a minimum weight rule that you're shooting for or what's your ultimate goal for weight?

C6psi

Track only.

C6psi

Not currently, just doing DE's right now but had the cage built to Nasa spec to do TT's/W2W when I am ready. I enjoy building as much as tracking. Just shooting to get it as light as possible and reducing the cost of consumables is a bonus. Would love to hit the 2700's but may be tough with a steel frame car. Right now it seems that many weight saving parts cost around $90+++ per pound.....pretty steep!

69427

I'm just using an inexpensive Denso alternator (7#, 42A) on my antique. A little bit of bracket fabrication time with some aluminum stock and my TIG welder, and ended up with some weight reduction and mass movement from the heavier LF over to the lighter RF of the car. I've run lots of hot-temp track days, and the alternator has been very dependable. Works great for me, even with the smaller crank pulley I have on the engine.

C6psi

Updated up top for those that may search in the future

383

what about belt routing how does that work out with the tensioner location?

C6psi

[QUOTE=383;1591384041]what about belt routing how does that work out with the tensioner location?[/Q

The relocation of the alternator to the AC location utilizes the 4 rib belt that was for the AC and the mounting kit comes with its own tensioner. The OEM spring tensioner mounts above the alternator and the alternator is shifted back in line with the OEM 4 rib portion of the balancer. For the 6 rib set up I will have to run a shorter belt and am swaping from the spring tensioner to a manual setup.

383

[QUOTE=C6psi;1591384166]Cool Id love to see pictures when youre done

sperkins

I was about to post the info that I have, but I see you posted it already.
I have pics of my install that I can share if needed.

383

Lets see'em
Does it run off the 4rib? Im considering this for my car
-30# for AC delete and 2.5~3# AND lower alt?

C6psi

Yeah I would love to see the modified AC bracket and other mounts. Looks like I may have to go your route and make my own since I haven't been able to get the machine shop on the phone that makes the above kit in my original post. Thanks Scott.

sperkins

I looked for pictures last night, but I can't find the drive that I downloaded them to. I'll keep checking.