C-4 suspension set up for autocrossing
#1
C-4 suspension set up for autocrossing
Hello,
I'm doing a lot of research to determine the ideal suspension components and settings for an autocross/track day car.
What works for you?
Would it help to relocate any of the suspension mounting locations?
Thank you for your guidance.
Al Keller
I'm doing a lot of research to determine the ideal suspension components and settings for an autocross/track day car.
What works for you?
Would it help to relocate any of the suspension mounting locations?
Thank you for your guidance.
Al Keller
Last edited by akeller; 01-27-2016 at 04:54 PM. Reason: better question
#3
Safety Car
What Brian said...it all depends on the class you want to run in for AutoX.
Track days don't matter what it's set up for...but if you run NCCC when you swap out major suspension stuff you get thrown into Group 3, which puts you with guys with MAJOR motor mods as well.
Sometimes it makes no difference...I swapped all my rear links with heim-linked parts, put Rippie brackets on, swapped to urethane bushings and beat most of the Group 3E cars I was running against...with a pure-stock motor.
Then I had a new motor built and it was all over for them...
Your desired class to run in SCCA/NCCC dictates what you can/can't do. Start there and pick who you want to play with and the suggestions will be easier to give to you.
Track days don't matter what it's set up for...but if you run NCCC when you swap out major suspension stuff you get thrown into Group 3, which puts you with guys with MAJOR motor mods as well.
Sometimes it makes no difference...I swapped all my rear links with heim-linked parts, put Rippie brackets on, swapped to urethane bushings and beat most of the Group 3E cars I was running against...with a pure-stock motor.
Then I had a new motor built and it was all over for them...
Your desired class to run in SCCA/NCCC dictates what you can/can't do. Start there and pick who you want to play with and the suggestions will be easier to give to you.
#4
Drifting
With my 91 C4, I scared the hell out guys that had way more money into their cars with only Tires/Koni sports and alignment. But as noted, pick you class (Autocross), and go have at it, and as for Track days? Think Brakes...
Mark.
Mark.
#5
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My opinion is the opposite of several of the previous suggestions. I decide what I want to put on my car to improve the performance on track days, and then on the odd occasional autocross I just run whatever NCCC class the car happens to fall in. I wind up getting the same prize money after the autocross anyway (zero dollars), and I'm a lot happier (and faster) on no-rules track days.
My expenditure of time and money, my decision on what goes on the car.
My expenditure of time and money, my decision on what goes on the car.
#6
Max G’s
How much experience do you have? If you are just starting, just make sure the suspension components are in good condition and bushings are good. Make sure wheel bearings are good as well. Leave everything else alone until you get some seat time. Get a good alignment and good tires. Learn to drive the car at the limit with the stock suspension and then start modding.
#8
Safety Car
Track days and autocross are totally different animals.
In either case I would do very little to the car until I had at least 6 events completed.
Most people who run track days run 1 or 2 events and never return. Any money they spent on modifications was wasted. Once you drive fast you may decide you don't like it. That's a pretty normal reaction.
When it's all said and done you're going to spend $1,000 a day to run a track event. Some weeks it will be less and some days it will be a lot more. Over the season it usually comes out to $1,000.
Autocross is a lot tougher than track days because it's a competition. At a track day you just drive around and hope no one hits you. There are no winners - or losers.
In an autocross event you're fighting for that last 0.10 of a second. You're pushing the rules envelope right to the edge. You really want that little $2.00 trophy.
You C4 probably needs a little routing maintenance. Get that under control and learn how to drive. After a year (or two) you might consider some modifications.
Richard Newton
In either case I would do very little to the car until I had at least 6 events completed.
Most people who run track days run 1 or 2 events and never return. Any money they spent on modifications was wasted. Once you drive fast you may decide you don't like it. That's a pretty normal reaction.
When it's all said and done you're going to spend $1,000 a day to run a track event. Some weeks it will be less and some days it will be a lot more. Over the season it usually comes out to $1,000.
Autocross is a lot tougher than track days because it's a competition. At a track day you just drive around and hope no one hits you. There are no winners - or losers.
In an autocross event you're fighting for that last 0.10 of a second. You're pushing the rules envelope right to the edge. You really want that little $2.00 trophy.
You C4 probably needs a little routing maintenance. Get that under control and learn how to drive. After a year (or two) you might consider some modifications.
Richard Newton
#9
Safety Car
My opinion is the opposite of several of the previous suggestions. I decide what I want to put on my car to improve the performance on track days, and then on the odd occasional autocross I just run whatever NCCC class the car happens to fall in. I wind up getting the same prize money after the autocross anyway (zero dollars), and I'm a lot happier (and faster) on no-rules track days.
My expenditure of time and money, my decision on what goes on the car.
My expenditure of time and money, my decision on what goes on the car.
If he intends to do a few track days and a bunch of NCCC/SCCA autocrosses...AND he wants to be COMPETITIVE in his class, then that sets your limitations on modifications. Do too much where you are thrown into a class with REALLY high-dollar builds where you suck hind tit and the joy of autocrossing soon fades...
One thing is for certain...BRAKES on track are paramount. I had the original J55's on mine, and did a few track days and burned through a set of race pads @ CotA in a SINGLE DAY!
Got a set of Wilwoods and they lasted an entire weekend with about 2/3 wear left.
It's all about where HE wants to be in the end...eventually you find that the two (AutoX/Track) are two entirely different animals, and if you intend to drive the car on the street it severely compromises the safety aspects of the car. A great autoX car can do pretty good on a track...but you are certainly far from being the most safe you can be.
That's why I'm building a dedicated track/autoX car now...too many compromises to keep my '91 Z07 drive-able on the street. I like going fast...eventually something is gonna break and without a full cage my life is in the balance.
#11
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It all depends on what the poster thinks the car will do 90% of the time...I agree. Mine is a licensed street car. I've made about a hundred mods to the car to make it faster and handle better, but it's still a civilized street car. Again, my money, my choices on what goes into the car.
If he intends to do a few track days and a bunch of NCCC/SCCA autocrosses...AND he wants to be COMPETITIVE in his class, then that sets your limitations on modifications. Do too much where you are thrown into a class with REALLY high-dollar builds where you suck hind tit and the joy of autocrossing soon fades... For some, but not others (me included). I enjoy being in a mix of cars that are highly modified or uber expensive (I particularly enjoy when some high-dollar Porsche GT3RS cars show up). It gives me a clear benchmark of how my moderately priced street car does against them, and the variety of cars gives me ideas on what I can do to improve its performance. Regarding the joy of autocrossing fading, it wasn't the competition of the cars in the class I was placed in that killed my enjoyment of autocrossing. It was the extremely poor seat-time vs standing-around-time ratio that killed it for me (and the autocross miles/dollar entry fee ratio is usually pretty damn poor too).
One thing is for certain...BRAKES on track are paramount. I had the original J55's on mine, and did a few track days and burned through a set of race pads @ CotA in a SINGLE DAY!
Got a set of Wilwoods and they lasted an entire weekend with about 2/3 wear left. I've had excellent results with my Wilwoods too.
It's all about where HE wants to be in the end...eventually you find that the two (AutoX/Track) are two entirely different animals, and if you intend to drive the car on the street it severely compromises the safety aspects of the car. A great autoX car can do pretty good on a track...but you are certainly far from being the most safe you can be.
That's why I'm building a dedicated track/autoX car now...too many compromises to keep my '91 Z07 drive-able on the street. I like going fast...eventually something is gonna break and without a full cage my life is in the balance.
If he intends to do a few track days and a bunch of NCCC/SCCA autocrosses...AND he wants to be COMPETITIVE in his class, then that sets your limitations on modifications. Do too much where you are thrown into a class with REALLY high-dollar builds where you suck hind tit and the joy of autocrossing soon fades... For some, but not others (me included). I enjoy being in a mix of cars that are highly modified or uber expensive (I particularly enjoy when some high-dollar Porsche GT3RS cars show up). It gives me a clear benchmark of how my moderately priced street car does against them, and the variety of cars gives me ideas on what I can do to improve its performance. Regarding the joy of autocrossing fading, it wasn't the competition of the cars in the class I was placed in that killed my enjoyment of autocrossing. It was the extremely poor seat-time vs standing-around-time ratio that killed it for me (and the autocross miles/dollar entry fee ratio is usually pretty damn poor too).
One thing is for certain...BRAKES on track are paramount. I had the original J55's on mine, and did a few track days and burned through a set of race pads @ CotA in a SINGLE DAY!
Got a set of Wilwoods and they lasted an entire weekend with about 2/3 wear left. I've had excellent results with my Wilwoods too.
It's all about where HE wants to be in the end...eventually you find that the two (AutoX/Track) are two entirely different animals, and if you intend to drive the car on the street it severely compromises the safety aspects of the car. A great autoX car can do pretty good on a track...but you are certainly far from being the most safe you can be.
That's why I'm building a dedicated track/autoX car now...too many compromises to keep my '91 Z07 drive-able on the street. I like going fast...eventually something is gonna break and without a full cage my life is in the balance.
#12
Safety Car
The open road racing seems to be pretty good for that as well...the Big Bend race is approx. 50 minutes each way, flat out as fast as you are tech'd to go. Seems like it would be a blast...I'm going to have to do it when the bugs are sorted out on the track car.
#13
Bang for the buck.
1. Alignment
2 bushings
3 ride height
4 diminishing returns kicks in hard after that.
Of course I left out tires. They are the only thing that touch the ground and nothing else you do to the car comes close.
1. Alignment
2 bushings
3 ride height
4 diminishing returns kicks in hard after that.
Of course I left out tires. They are the only thing that touch the ground and nothing else you do to the car comes close.
#14
Safety Car
We've all left out the most important item - A good driving coach.
Richard Newton
Richard Newton
#15
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I agree on seat time and driver coaching. Until you know you are at the limit of the car you will not know if what you change is actually making you faster, or the driver is getting better.