Considering a Monster LT1-S 9.5" Dual Disc - NEED REVIEWS
02-10-2016, 09:53 AM
#1
Considering a Monster LT1-S 9.5" Dual Disc - NEED REVIEWS
Been on the phone with about 3 different speed shops, called monster and SPEC, and also read too many forum posts. Needless to say I'm not going to touch a spec clutch. I'm really leaning towards a monster street dual disc. I've been told and read it drives like stock but will take a lot of abuse, and also really like the lower inertia because its lighter and smaller diameter. (I WILL be buying a light weight flywheel with whatever I get).
Car is a 2003 Z06 H/C/I car makes basically 500 to the tire. Its a fun car, NOT a DD. BUT I want a clutch that would be no problem for a DD. I've had a pucked ceramic clutch before and it was part of the reason I sold the toy. It held the power great and I beat the tar outta it, but it was REALLY loud, petal was like a rock, and also it was on/off (we all know how these are). At the time I didnt care about drivability but i've learned my lesson.
I want a clutch that will take some abuse for road racing and 4 standing mile events, hold about 550-600hp and car rev's to about 7200 rpm. Think of it as a really high HP road race car basically. (going to spray the car a little for 200mph in 1.5mi race - only doing a couple races though to get 'in the club') other wise its a sunshine car that i want to have a feel and engagement close to stock (it can be a LITTLE firmer, just dont want a loud chatter or a light switch). Also the car will be used on the road race track a lot...and when I take it out on the street its always on back roads or canyons or mtn passes and being flogged.
I know its a tall order but Monster pointed me to this clutch that it will check all of the things I want and actually has basically OE petal pressure even. So I'm looking for reviews for those of you that have them. I'm really concerned that a dual disc will not disengage fast enough (previous experience) and allow for fast shifts like a single disc. Monster says because its fully sprung will will push the discs appart really quick and it wont be an issue - but I just want to hear first hand opinions about quickness of shifting, petal feel, and engagement.
Thanks everyone!
Car is a 2003 Z06 H/C/I car makes basically 500 to the tire. Its a fun car, NOT a DD. BUT I want a clutch that would be no problem for a DD. I've had a pucked ceramic clutch before and it was part of the reason I sold the toy. It held the power great and I beat the tar outta it, but it was REALLY loud, petal was like a rock, and also it was on/off (we all know how these are). At the time I didnt care about drivability but i've learned my lesson.
I want a clutch that will take some abuse for road racing and 4 standing mile events, hold about 550-600hp and car rev's to about 7200 rpm. Think of it as a really high HP road race car basically. (going to spray the car a little for 200mph in 1.5mi race - only doing a couple races though to get 'in the club') other wise its a sunshine car that i want to have a feel and engagement close to stock (it can be a LITTLE firmer, just dont want a loud chatter or a light switch). Also the car will be used on the road race track a lot...and when I take it out on the street its always on back roads or canyons or mtn passes and being flogged.
I know its a tall order but Monster pointed me to this clutch that it will check all of the things I want and actually has basically OE petal pressure even. So I'm looking for reviews for those of you that have them. I'm really concerned that a dual disc will not disengage fast enough (previous experience) and allow for fast shifts like a single disc. Monster says because its fully sprung will will push the discs appart really quick and it wont be an issue - but I just want to hear first hand opinions about quickness of shifting, petal feel, and engagement.
Thanks everyone!
02-10-2016, 03:29 PM
#2
Racer
Been on the phone with about 3 different speed shops, called monster and SPEC, and also read too many forum posts. Needless to say I'm not going to touch a spec clutch. I'm really leaning towards a monster street dual disc. I've been told and read it drives like stock but will take a lot of abuse, and also really like the lower inertia because its lighter and smaller diameter. (I WILL be buying a light weight flywheel with whatever I get).
Car is a 2003 Z06 H/C/I car makes basically 500 to the tire. Its a fun car, NOT a DD. BUT I want a clutch that would be no problem for a DD. I've had a pucked ceramic clutch before and it was part of the reason I sold the toy. It held the power great and I beat the tar outta it, but it was REALLY loud, petal was like a rock, and also it was on/off (we all know how these are). At the time I didnt care about drivability but i've learned my lesson.
I want a clutch that will take some abuse for road racing and 4 standing mile events, hold about 550-600hp and car rev's to about 7200 rpm. Think of it as a really high HP road race car basically. (going to spray the car a little for 200mph in 1.5mi race - only doing a couple races though to get 'in the club') other wise its a sunshine car that i want to have a feel and engagement close to stock (it can be a LITTLE firmer, just dont want a loud chatter or a light switch). Also the car will be used on the road race track a lot...and when I take it out on the street its always on back roads or canyons or mtn passes and being flogged.
I know its a tall order but Monster pointed me to this clutch that it will check all of the things I want and actually has basically OE petal pressure even. So I'm looking for reviews for those of you that have them. I'm really concerned that a dual disc will not disengage fast enough (previous experience) and allow for fast shifts like a single disc. Monster says because its fully sprung will will push the discs appart really quick and it wont be an issue - but I just want to hear first hand opinions about quickness of shifting, petal feel, and engagement.
Thanks everyone!
Car is a 2003 Z06 H/C/I car makes basically 500 to the tire. Its a fun car, NOT a DD. BUT I want a clutch that would be no problem for a DD. I've had a pucked ceramic clutch before and it was part of the reason I sold the toy. It held the power great and I beat the tar outta it, but it was REALLY loud, petal was like a rock, and also it was on/off (we all know how these are). At the time I didnt care about drivability but i've learned my lesson.
I want a clutch that will take some abuse for road racing and 4 standing mile events, hold about 550-600hp and car rev's to about 7200 rpm. Think of it as a really high HP road race car basically. (going to spray the car a little for 200mph in 1.5mi race - only doing a couple races though to get 'in the club') other wise its a sunshine car that i want to have a feel and engagement close to stock (it can be a LITTLE firmer, just dont want a loud chatter or a light switch). Also the car will be used on the road race track a lot...and when I take it out on the street its always on back roads or canyons or mtn passes and being flogged.
I know its a tall order but Monster pointed me to this clutch that it will check all of the things I want and actually has basically OE petal pressure even. So I'm looking for reviews for those of you that have them. I'm really concerned that a dual disc will not disengage fast enough (previous experience) and allow for fast shifts like a single disc. Monster says because its fully sprung will will push the discs appart really quick and it wont be an issue - but I just want to hear first hand opinions about quickness of shifting, petal feel, and engagement.
Thanks everyone!
Tim
02-10-2016, 04:00 PM
#3
I have been running it with their light flywheel for over a year. I have a stock motor though. The pedal feels the same as the LS6 clutch I replaced. Engement is smooth and progressive. The motor revs quicker with the smaller Moment of Inertia. There are some "light chatter noises" with the car in neutral and the clutch out. I understand that is "normal" and it does not bother me. (Neither does squeaking race pads when I leave my track brakes in between events). I just do road course work so I don't try to shift particularly "quick". I'm no help there. The other other recommendation from me is to be aware of the clutch balancing requirement for corvettes. My flywheel had a couple of weights in the balancing holes and matching the old with the new is a requirement for smooth operation. Good luck!!
Tim
Tim
The 'quick' shifting I'm referring too would be VERY obvious. The old dual disc i'm referencing took about 1-2 seconds for it to go in 1st just sitting at a stop light, and in between gears it was a VERY noticeable second that it took to get into the next gear. Out of gear as always is easy, but there was a pause while waiting for the discs to separate to allow the change.
Considering you've never noticed anything, its most likely fine.
For instance if you were coming onto a straightaway, side by side with someone on the final lap, 1500' and the checkered flag and a championship. You would likely keep the throttle pegged and just speed shift it as fast as you could to gain every inch you could right? If you think the clutch would allow for that, its fine. What I'm referencing, you would have hit rev-limiter about 20x - NO MATTER HOW HARD YOU PULL - before it would go into the next gear.
Andrew
Last edited by nskyline34; 02-10-2016 at 04:10 PM.
02-10-2016, 07:06 PM
#4
Drifting
I also have the Monster LT1-S with the lighter flywheel clutch in my C5 Z06 and it has been working great. I have a supercharged LS6 with about 550 rwhp that I use as a street car and trackday car (A group). I haven't noticed any problems during normal use or quicker shifting at the track. I don't drag race so I can't provide any feedback on that.
The advice I got before I bought was to order a new GM slave, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing. I already happened to have an extra remote bleeder so I installed that at the same time (I had one on the old slave too).
It's not the cheapest clutch but I think it should work as well for you as it has for me.
Dog
The advice I got before I bought was to order a new GM slave, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing. I already happened to have an extra remote bleeder so I installed that at the same time (I had one on the old slave too).
It's not the cheapest clutch but I think it should work as well for you as it has for me.
Dog
02-10-2016, 07:41 PM
#5
Drifting
Pretty much what everyone else is saying. C5Z here with mid 400whp, LT1-S with standard weight flywheel. Shifts are smooth, very fast, no issues shifting at 7000 rpm. No sticking clutch pedal or other weird things. Mine too makes a bit of chatter when in gear in neutral..doesnt bother me.
Pedal feel is stock like effort, the engagement window is a bit smaller than stock-- it's a little different, but you'll get used to it after a drive or two. For this reason they don't recommend the Tick 7/8" bore master cylinder with it.
Something else I will throw out there is that the support from Monster is great. Steve and everyone else I talked to was very patient and helpful-- and in my case I got the thing new/unused but second hand.
edit: I did the install myself in my garage... let me know if you have any questions on that front as well. Definitely get a new slave cylinder (throwout bearing), pilot bearing and remote speedbleeder as already mentioned.
Pedal feel is stock like effort, the engagement window is a bit smaller than stock-- it's a little different, but you'll get used to it after a drive or two. For this reason they don't recommend the Tick 7/8" bore master cylinder with it.
Something else I will throw out there is that the support from Monster is great. Steve and everyone else I talked to was very patient and helpful-- and in my case I got the thing new/unused but second hand.
edit: I did the install myself in my garage... let me know if you have any questions on that front as well. Definitely get a new slave cylinder (throwout bearing), pilot bearing and remote speedbleeder as already mentioned.
Last edited by aaronc7; 02-10-2016 at 07:51 PM.
02-10-2016, 07:42 PM
#6
I also have the Monster LT1-S with the lighter flywheel clutch in my C5 Z06 and it has been working great. I have a supercharged LS6 with about 550 rwhp that I use as a street car and trackday car (A group). I haven't noticed any problems during normal use or quicker shifting at the track. I don't drag race so I can't provide any feedback on that.
The advice I got before I bought was to order a new GM slave, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing. I already happened to have an extra remote bleeder so I installed that at the same time (I had one on the old slave too).
It's not the cheapest clutch but I think it should work as well for you as it has for me.
Dog
The advice I got before I bought was to order a new GM slave, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing. I already happened to have an extra remote bleeder so I installed that at the same time (I had one on the old slave too).
It's not the cheapest clutch but I think it should work as well for you as it has for me.
Dog
Done many clutches before, never in a vette tho. How many hours should I budget for it?
Hopefully I hear more from people tonight as I'm gonna order tomorrow morning or tonight.
02-11-2016, 12:05 AM
#7
Pretty much what everyone else is saying. C5Z here with mid 400whp, LT1-S with standard weight flywheel. Shifts are smooth, very fast, no issues shifting at 7000 rpm. No sticking clutch pedal or other weird things. Mine too makes a bit of chatter when in gear in neutral..doesnt bother me.
Pedal feel is stock like effort, the engagement window is a bit smaller than stock-- it's a little different, but you'll get used to it after a drive or two. For this reason they don't recommend the Tick 7/8" bore master cylinder with it.
Something else I will throw out there is that the support from Monster is great. Steve and everyone else I talked to was very patient and helpful-- and in my case I got the thing new/unused but second hand.
edit: I did the install myself in my garage... let me know if you have any questions on that front as well. Definitely get a new slave cylinder (throwout bearing), pilot bearing and remote speedbleeder as already mentioned.
Pedal feel is stock like effort, the engagement window is a bit smaller than stock-- it's a little different, but you'll get used to it after a drive or two. For this reason they don't recommend the Tick 7/8" bore master cylinder with it.
Something else I will throw out there is that the support from Monster is great. Steve and everyone else I talked to was very patient and helpful-- and in my case I got the thing new/unused but second hand.
edit: I did the install myself in my garage... let me know if you have any questions on that front as well. Definitely get a new slave cylinder (throwout bearing), pilot bearing and remote speedbleeder as already mentioned.
Approx how long should I budget time to do this?
How does the break time need to be and what's the best way?
02-11-2016, 12:28 AM
#8
Drifting
It's a pretty involved process. If you have access to a lift it will be much easier. I think most dealerships or shops charge about 12 hours labor. I took my time doing it over the course of a few weekends in my garage.
There's a decent pdf or word document floating around in the C5 section to give you an idea of the whole process.
Not sure what you mean in your last question. Basically you have to drop the whole rear cradle and torque tube/trans/diff..... all as a whole unit or separately, depending on what sort of trans jacks etc you have.
https://i.imgur.com/VbZvAI5h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jzrgO9xh.jpg
There's a decent pdf or word document floating around in the C5 section to give you an idea of the whole process.
Not sure what you mean in your last question. Basically you have to drop the whole rear cradle and torque tube/trans/diff..... all as a whole unit or separately, depending on what sort of trans jacks etc you have.
https://i.imgur.com/VbZvAI5h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jzrgO9xh.jpg
Last edited by aaronc7; 02-11-2016 at 12:29 AM.
02-11-2016, 12:41 AM
#9
It's a pretty involved process. If you have access to a lift it will be much easier. I think most dealerships or shops charge about 12 hours labor. I took my time doing it over the course of a few weekends in my garage.
There's a decent pdf or word document floating around in the C5 section to give you an idea of the whole process.
Not sure what you mean in your last question. Basically you have to drop the whole rear cradle and torque tube/trans/diff..... all as a whole unit or separately, depending on what sort of trans jacks etc you have.
https://i.imgur.com/VbZvAI5h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jzrgO9xh.jpg
There's a decent pdf or word document floating around in the C5 section to give you an idea of the whole process.
Not sure what you mean in your last question. Basically you have to drop the whole rear cradle and torque tube/trans/diff..... all as a whole unit or separately, depending on what sort of trans jacks etc you have.
https://i.imgur.com/VbZvAI5h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jzrgO9xh.jpg
I'm just wondering in 'real joe' hours how long it would take. I was thinking probably budget about 20-24 hours to take my time.
My last question was about break-in procedures. How long does it take and also how should I drive it?
I have to get the car tuned as I've changed a lot of things, so I need to break it in just enough T to make some Dyno pulls to get a tune...
02-11-2016, 07:05 AM
#10
Racer
Plan on at least two weekends. Pull it out the first, match balance at the machine shop and reinstall the second weekend. Make sure you and the machine shop are clear on "match balancing" and not zero balancing. I found it easier by myself to reinstall the torque tube by itself. Then add the trans/diff on the trans jack. It's tough to aim the entire assembly and be gentle with the pilot bearing.
Monster advised 300 miles of city type driving and you are good to go.
Monster advised 300 miles of city type driving and you are good to go.
02-11-2016, 08:30 AM
#12
Racer
They are zero'd from Monster but the issue is the entire system balance.
For the manual transmission Corvette, GM did a "hot balance" procedure where they installed the clutch and pressure plate and "fine tuned" the balance via weights placed in the perimeter holes of the flywheel. Some assemblies needed no additional weights others did.
When replacing the stock clutch you need to match your new flywheel and pressure plate to the rotational "balance" of the OE clutch/pressure plate assembly, else you get some nasty harmonics at 2500 - 3500 RPM. Match to whatever the condition of your OE stuff (e.g. 2 grams at 120 degrees). The new "matched" assembly needs to go on the crank in the same rotational position as well (which should be match up with the 7th hole, but mark it to be sure)
Many/most shops will think you are nuts when you inquire about this...I had to deal with it... it's real
Read this thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...install-7.html
Forum member ThbwlZ (Tommy) is a subject matter expert on the topic.
Plenty of cars did not need the additional weights, I would have the stuff matched regardless.
02-11-2016, 09:45 AM
#13
so basically the entire engine rotating assembly was almost externally balanced?
If I understand you correct I need to take the old and new clutches down to them and tell them to just match the new one's balance to the old. (just like an externally balanced rotating assy)
Correct?
Good call man, thanks for bringing this up!
Just out of curiosity since I am tracking the car, any recommended track day mods? (safety stuff aside as I have that covered)
Going to call a couple machine shops to make sure that they can help me out IN TIME. I just hate how unreliable most machine shops are.
If I understand you correct I need to take the old and new clutches down to them and tell them to just match the new one's balance to the old. (just like an externally balanced rotating assy)
Correct?
Good call man, thanks for bringing this up!
Just out of curiosity since I am tracking the car, any recommended track day mods? (safety stuff aside as I have that covered)
Going to call a couple machine shops to make sure that they can help me out IN TIME. I just hate how unreliable most machine shops are.
Last edited by nskyline34; 02-11-2016 at 09:54 AM.
02-11-2016, 10:52 AM
#14
Racer
so basically the entire engine rotating assembly was almost externally balanced?
If I understand you correct I need to take the old and new clutches down to them and tell them to just match the new one's balance to the old. (just like an externally balanced rotating assy)
Correct?
Good call man, thanks for bringing this up!
Just out of curiosity since I am tracking the car, any recommended track day mods? (safety stuff aside as I have that covered)
Going to call a couple machine shops to make sure that they can help me out IN TIME. I just hate how unreliable most machine shops are.
If I understand you correct I need to take the old and new clutches down to them and tell them to just match the new one's balance to the old. (just like an externally balanced rotating assy)
Correct?
Good call man, thanks for bringing this up!
Just out of curiosity since I am tracking the car, any recommended track day mods? (safety stuff aside as I have that covered)
Going to call a couple machine shops to make sure that they can help me out IN TIME. I just hate how unreliable most machine shops are.
Might be worth a call to Monster too to confirm the balancing setup with the twin disc. The friction disc is not part of the balancing, but I remember some warnings in the instructions about leaving the friction disc alone. The shop that did mine had to get a different sized arbor to spin mine.
There are posts of guys that ended up at two or three machine shops to get it right. It's just an oddity with the corvette drivetrain and even the dealers struggled with it. The service manual sort of addresses it but it's not clear and spread out in a couple of different places.
Hopefully yours didn't require the additional weights and all of this is moot.
Track Mods that I have done:
Race Seats + safety gear (the best bang for the buck)
A clutch that works
Radiator/oil cooler
Brake Cooling Ducts
Delrin Control Arm Bushings
Shocks
Turn One Steering Pump and rebuilt steering rack. (if your rack is not leaking now, you can do the pump soon and maybe save a rebuild).
Rear bumpsteer/ HD tie rod kit (I just put this in and haven't been on track yet, but hoping that cures the dynamic toe change in hard braking zones)
I'm a "don't touch the motor" guy
02-11-2016, 02:26 PM
#15
That is how I understand the situation. The engine is balanced fine on it's own, but the balance specs for the flywheel and pressure plate combined with the torque tube amplifying any vibration required the "hot balance" to get the engine plus clutch assembly balance tolerances even tighter.
Might be worth a call to Monster too to confirm the balancing setup with the twin disc. The friction disc is not part of the balancing, but I remember some warnings in the instructions about leaving the friction disc alone. The shop that did mine had to get a different sized arbor to spin mine.
There are posts of guys that ended up at two or three machine shops to get it right. It's just an oddity with the corvette drivetrain and even the dealers struggled with it. The service manual sort of addresses it but it's not clear and spread out in a couple of different places.
Hopefully yours didn't require the additional weights and all of this is moot.
Track Mods that I have done:
Race Seats + safety gear (the best bang for the buck)
A clutch that works
Radiator/oil cooler
Brake Cooling Ducts
Delrin Control Arm Bushings
Shocks
Turn One Steering Pump and rebuilt steering rack. (if your rack is not leaking now, you can do the pump soon and maybe save a rebuild).
Rear bumpsteer/ HD tie rod kit (I just put this in and haven't been on track yet, but hoping that cures the dynamic toe change in hard braking zones)
I'm a "don't touch the motor" guy
Might be worth a call to Monster too to confirm the balancing setup with the twin disc. The friction disc is not part of the balancing, but I remember some warnings in the instructions about leaving the friction disc alone. The shop that did mine had to get a different sized arbor to spin mine.
There are posts of guys that ended up at two or three machine shops to get it right. It's just an oddity with the corvette drivetrain and even the dealers struggled with it. The service manual sort of addresses it but it's not clear and spread out in a couple of different places.
Hopefully yours didn't require the additional weights and all of this is moot.
Track Mods that I have done:
Race Seats + safety gear (the best bang for the buck)
A clutch that works
Radiator/oil cooler
Brake Cooling Ducts
Delrin Control Arm Bushings
Shocks
Turn One Steering Pump and rebuilt steering rack. (if your rack is not leaking now, you can do the pump soon and maybe save a rebuild).
Rear bumpsteer/ HD tie rod kit (I just put this in and haven't been on track yet, but hoping that cures the dynamic toe change in hard braking zones)
I'm a "don't touch the motor" guy
What is the turn one steering pump for?
02-11-2016, 03:43 PM
#16
Racer
As was explained to me and consistent with my experience: the pump from TurnOne reduces the power steering flowrate and that helps to keep the fluid temperatures lower. The high fluid temps from track duty/higher RPMS are what damages the seals in the power steering rack. My steering rack started weeping fluid that showed on the bottom of the rubber bellows and I sent it to them for a rebuild. I bought their pump at the same with the hopes of not having to pull the rack again anytime soon.
03-02-2016, 12:00 PM
#17
Update:
Car is just about done with tuning - max power was 487 at about 6900-7000. Graph was still climbing a little so this coming winter I will pull everything and do a forged rotating assy for 7400-7500 rpm to get the last bit out of it and break 500whp and make it a lot more reliable.
Havent been able to drive the car much really but the petal feels maybe a tiny tiny bit firmer than stock, and the clutch engagement is just like stock - maybe a tiny tiny bit quicker because I drilled out the slave line. I have put about 1-2 mi on it (lol yes 1-2) so I will write back after I get a bit more time.
Took about 16 total hours in the machine shop to get the balance issue BS figured out. My machinist and I ended up changing some of the clutch components and changed the alignment of the FW to the PP. Fingers crossed - but I think we determined why people are all having clutch issues. We will see... I will report back more later - so far though, I dont regret it at all! (Just wish it was easier to change out! lol)
Car is just about done with tuning - max power was 487 at about 6900-7000. Graph was still climbing a little so this coming winter I will pull everything and do a forged rotating assy for 7400-7500 rpm to get the last bit out of it and break 500whp and make it a lot more reliable.
Havent been able to drive the car much really but the petal feels maybe a tiny tiny bit firmer than stock, and the clutch engagement is just like stock - maybe a tiny tiny bit quicker because I drilled out the slave line. I have put about 1-2 mi on it (lol yes 1-2) so I will write back after I get a bit more time.
Took about 16 total hours in the machine shop to get the balance issue BS figured out. My machinist and I ended up changing some of the clutch components and changed the alignment of the FW to the PP. Fingers crossed - but I think we determined why people are all having clutch issues. We will see... I will report back more later - so far though, I dont regret it at all! (Just wish it was easier to change out! lol)
03-17-2016, 04:25 PM
#18
Car drives better than stock even. it doesnt chatter hardly at all (dual disc so its expected to). no vibration either.
Overall happy with it - but its a different car to drive in traffic - really wants to die now with the light weight FW and small clutch - starting off is much harder lol I looked like a noobie for the first couple miles. lol
unfortunately i'm plagued by tuning issues currently and have literally driven the car about 15 miles total. (tuner put about 60-70 on it) i've only been above 5k rpm about 3x thus far but felt good that high - so shouldnt be any vibrations from 5k to 7000+.
Clutch feel - absolutely amazing - so easy to slip not a light switch at all. stabbed the throttle hard and all it did was give me whiplash - and the clutch had 75 miles on it - 425mi from 'broken in'
Petal feel is MAYBE MAYBE a little firmer than stock - MAYBE.
My buddy and I (hes a machinist) spent about a 20 hours with the OE and the monster clutch on the balancer though and got to the bottom of the balancing issues with these cars. Lots here that makes me somewhat disappointed in GM but also the aftermarket for knowing a problem and not fixing it as they should've.
If you include the machine time/time off work to get this **** right this was the most expensive clutch I've ever bought... (purchase price and then machine time) Mind you I'm coming from a twin turbo diesel sled pulling truck too - which the low end torque would annihilate.
This being said - if this clutch keeps doing what it is and lasts a reasonable amount of time relative to the beatings it will see - no question I will buy another one. Now I know what to budget for on top of the purchase price...
Overall happy with it - but its a different car to drive in traffic - really wants to die now with the light weight FW and small clutch - starting off is much harder lol I looked like a noobie for the first couple miles. lol
unfortunately i'm plagued by tuning issues currently and have literally driven the car about 15 miles total. (tuner put about 60-70 on it) i've only been above 5k rpm about 3x thus far but felt good that high - so shouldnt be any vibrations from 5k to 7000+.
Clutch feel - absolutely amazing - so easy to slip not a light switch at all. stabbed the throttle hard and all it did was give me whiplash - and the clutch had 75 miles on it - 425mi from 'broken in'
Petal feel is MAYBE MAYBE a little firmer than stock - MAYBE.
My buddy and I (hes a machinist) spent about a 20 hours with the OE and the monster clutch on the balancer though and got to the bottom of the balancing issues with these cars. Lots here that makes me somewhat disappointed in GM but also the aftermarket for knowing a problem and not fixing it as they should've.
If you include the machine time/time off work to get this **** right this was the most expensive clutch I've ever bought... (purchase price and then machine time) Mind you I'm coming from a twin turbo diesel sled pulling truck too - which the low end torque would annihilate.
This being said - if this clutch keeps doing what it is and lasts a reasonable amount of time relative to the beatings it will see - no question I will buy another one. Now I know what to budget for on top of the purchase price...
03-17-2016, 09:54 PM
#19
Racer
Car drives better than stock even. it doesnt chatter hardly at all (dual disc so its expected to). no vibration either.
Overall happy with it - but its a different car to drive in traffic - really wants to die now with the light weight FW and small clutch - starting off is much harder lol I looked like a noobie for the first couple miles. lol
unfortunately i'm plagued by tuning issues currently and have literally driven the car about 15 miles total. (tuner put about 60-70 on it) i've only been above 5k rpm about 3x thus far but felt good that high - so shouldnt be any vibrations from 5k to 7000+.
Clutch feel - absolutely amazing - so easy to slip not a light switch at all. stabbed the throttle hard and all it did was give me whiplash - and the clutch had 75 miles on it - 425mi from 'broken in'
Petal feel is MAYBE MAYBE a little firmer than stock - MAYBE.
My buddy and I (hes a machinist) spent about a 20 hours with the OE and the monster clutch on the balancer though and got to the bottom of the balancing issues with these cars. Lots here that makes me somewhat disappointed in GM but also the aftermarket for knowing a problem and not fixing it as they should've.
If you include the machine time/time off work to get this **** right this was the most expensive clutch I've ever bought... (purchase price and then machine time) Mind you I'm coming from a twin turbo diesel sled pulling truck too - which the low end torque would annihilate.
This being said - if this clutch keeps doing what it is and lasts a reasonable amount of time relative to the beatings it will see - no question I will buy another one. Now I know what to budget for on top of the purchase price...
Overall happy with it - but its a different car to drive in traffic - really wants to die now with the light weight FW and small clutch - starting off is much harder lol I looked like a noobie for the first couple miles. lol
unfortunately i'm plagued by tuning issues currently and have literally driven the car about 15 miles total. (tuner put about 60-70 on it) i've only been above 5k rpm about 3x thus far but felt good that high - so shouldnt be any vibrations from 5k to 7000+.
Clutch feel - absolutely amazing - so easy to slip not a light switch at all. stabbed the throttle hard and all it did was give me whiplash - and the clutch had 75 miles on it - 425mi from 'broken in'
Petal feel is MAYBE MAYBE a little firmer than stock - MAYBE.
My buddy and I (hes a machinist) spent about a 20 hours with the OE and the monster clutch on the balancer though and got to the bottom of the balancing issues with these cars. Lots here that makes me somewhat disappointed in GM but also the aftermarket for knowing a problem and not fixing it as they should've.
If you include the machine time/time off work to get this **** right this was the most expensive clutch I've ever bought... (purchase price and then machine time) Mind you I'm coming from a twin turbo diesel sled pulling truck too - which the low end torque would annihilate.
This being said - if this clutch keeps doing what it is and lasts a reasonable amount of time relative to the beatings it will see - no question I will buy another one. Now I know what to budget for on top of the purchase price...
Did your original flywheel have weights in any of the perimeter holes?