mel3535

Hello forum,

I recently bought a 03z06, pretty much stock other than exhaust and aesthetic mods. I plan to use this car for occasional track days, maybe around 2-3 a year, and just backroad driving. What mods do you guys recommend?

I come from two wheel world where a stock yamaha r6 with decent brake fluids and tires can do some fast times at the track. I don't know much about c5 z06 and what you need to do to make it reliable street/weekend car.

In terms of my skill level I am your average driver, meaning not very good. But I plan on improving this. I do know my local tracks and backroads very well, I have done over 30+ track days on two wheels.

I would like to spend around 3-4k total for mods for now.

1) figured cooling is the first issue? Do I need to run a trans cooler for what I plan to do? What is the best way to keep the car cool with the stock radiator?
2)Suspension set up: Coilover or springs, any particular ones you guys recommend? What kind of sway bars do you recommend? Or do I even need to dump any money here for now? I bet just learning how to drive better might work for now.
3)What do you recommend for decent budget seats for the c5? I don't need anything fancy, just something functional. Looking for a budget seats with 5 point harness set up.
4) Currently have Michelin pilot supersport tires, happy enough with them for now.
5) brakes are adequate enough for now, I just plan to run the stock brakes with some better pads and fluids, what do you recommend?

71corv

For occasional track days I would suggest the following starting off :

- full set of new brake pads. Zo6 pads are adequate now.
- new clutch fluid. There is a post on this. Don't have the info for it.
- new brake fluid. Use a high temp fluid like "Wilwood".
- plenty of seat time. The other items you listed will make themselves known as you progress on the track.
- your current tires should work fine.

I'm sure others will expand on this. Enjoy the car as it is quite the performer on the track.

Gene

SunnydayDILYSI

I would put in fresh fluids (engine, trans, diff, coolant, brake). Also upgrade brake fluid to Motul 600, put in some track pads (e.g., Carbotech XP10s), and add an extra quart of oil just before the track days (check oil after each session and keep it 1 qt past full). After the event you may want to go back to DOT 3 fluid (longer shelf life) and stock pads (less dust and noise). If you are only doing 2-3 track days a year, I would leave the rest bone stock. It's a solid track car off the showroom floor. To keep the car cool with stock radiator, don't drive it hard on the track if it is 90+ outside. Likely won't need coolers unless you start doing a lot more events. But watch your oil temps. If you start hitting the 280s you'll need a bigger radiator and/or oil cooler (check out Ron Davis integrated radiator and oil cooler). Seats and harnesses are always a good safety idea. Check out the Cobra Imola for a compromise between street and track or the Cobra Suzuka for full on track seat. By far biggest upgrade will be seat time, then tires, then a lot of distant 3rd place finishers.

MX621

you basically described how I use my car. deff do seats.. the stockers are worthless... I run A4's and I think they work well on street/track.. I deff wanna get a harness bar and harness's before I go back to track. I find them most needed in braking zones and just all around safety.. susp- stock, my car is lowered a lil with a track alignment. that's it.. more than enough for occasional track days. I think with your bike backround your gonna wanna have track pads for the track..
cooling.. long as your track days are not very warm you will be ok. oil temps are the real problem, then can get high if you are pushing the car hard. more revs=higher temps. I tend to short shift a lil ,but ive hit 285 before. get a shifter!!!

FASTFATBOY

^^ This, and.........

Pull the radiator and clean the fins, also blow out the condenser. These cars are bottom breathers and are literally vacuum cleaners. You must keep it clean also.

Get some aluminum duct tape and seal the sides and top of the radiator so that all the air that comes in from the bottom is forced through the radiator. Also tie back the center air deflector where it can't fold under the car at speed.


280* oil temps won't hurt a thing, neither will 300* past that you need to look at a cooler. Keep the coolant temp in check and the oil will follow. I change oil every 4 days on track with 0-40 Mobil 1 Euro from Wal Mart.


Put a good seat, harness bar and 5-6 point belts in the the car. This is the best money you will spend. I swap my seats in/out for track weekends.

For the first few sets of tires buy the cheapest FRESH set you can find like Bridgestone RE760's and burn them up.

Brake pads, I'm a Raybestos guy. The ST43/ST41 should do you well, buy some good rotors like the Centric High Carbon. These rotors are really good for the money...shop them around like Autoanything.com at Rockauto.com.

Have fun, these cars are really quick in stock form.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

5) brakes are adequate enough for now, I just plan to run the stock brakes with some better pads and fluids, what do you recommend?

Brake fluid Motul 600.

As far as pads here is a proven combo. I would also add some front cooling ducts such as the Quantum cooling kit.



Carbotech XP10 front XP8 rear. The Carbotech pads have plenty of initial bite and great modulation while being rotor friendly. Carbotech also has a street pad the 1521 compound which you can swap to for street use and since all Carbotech compounds are compatible with each other all you need to do is swap pads on track days and go no re-bedding or changing rotors nothing put them on and go and yes the XP series can be driven on the street so, yes you can drive them to and from the track with out issue except for noise and dust.

If interested please let me know and I will be happy to set you up. Pricing is below.

XP10 $212 XP8 $166 Less 5%.

1521 Front $148 1521 Rear $128 Less 5%.

Carbotech™ XP10™

When Carbotech™ unleashed the XP10™ to the general public it immediately gathered multiple regional, divisional, and national championships. The XP10™ has a very strong initial bite with a coefficient of friction and rotor friendliness unmatched in the industry. Fade resistance is in excess of 1475°F (801°C). XP10™ still maintains the highly praised release, excellent modulation and rotor friendliness that have made all Carbotech™ compounds so successful. Carbotech™ XP10™ is not recommended as a daily-driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.

Carbotech™ XP8™

A high torque brake compound with a wide operating temperature range of 200°F-1250°F+ (93°C to 676°C+). Carbotech™ XP8™ is the first of our racing compounds. Good initial bite at race temperatures, high coefficient of friction, excellent modulation and release characteristics. Extremely high fade resistance and very rotor friendly. Perfect for track day use with any tire and can still be driven safely to and from the track. Carbotech™ does NOT recommended XP8™ as a daily driven street pad due to elevated levels of dust and noise. Carbotech™ XP8™ is a great compound on the front & rear of most open wheel and sports racers.

Carbotech™ Bobcat 1521™ The Carbotech Bobcat 1521™ is our high performance street compound that is our most successful compound. The Bobcat compound is known for its awesome release and modulation, along with unmatched rotor friendliness. Like our AX™ & XP™ line of compounds, Bobcat 1521™ is a Ceramic based friction material offering minimal rotor damage and non-corrosive dust. Bobcat 1521™ offers outstanding performance, even when cold, low dusting and low noise with an excellent initial bite. This compound’s virtually perfect linear torque production provides incredible braking force without ABS intervention. Bobcat 1521™ operating range starts out at ambient and goes up to 900°F. Bobcat 1521™ is suitable for ALL street cars, perfect for your tow vehicle, police cruiser. The Bobcat 1521™ compound has been found to last two-three times longer than OE pads you can purchase at a dealership or national retailer. That’s one of the beauties of Carbotech Ceramic brake compounds. Bobcat 1521™ is NOT recommended for any track use.

MongoZ06

Fresh Fluids (oil, brake, clutch, coolant and maybe trans and rear end depending on how many miles are on the car)

Better pads (I would look to go with Carbotechs or Raybestos)

New Rotors for the new pads (I usually just get mine from Rockauto)

Clean out the Radiator and condenser (you'd be surprised at how much junk gets stuck up in there)

Start looking for a seat and a harness. Before I bought my seats I would ask other drivers at track events if I could sit in their seats to try them out to see what I liked. I eventually went with an Ultrashield seat that I swap in and out for track days.

Your car is plenty fast as is... tires, brakes and seats can make a huge a difference. Worry about the suspension a little later.

I would also look to replace your factory belt tensioner with the LS2 tensioner. I slung a belt a couple years ago on the track and since replacing with LS2 tensioner I haven't had a problem. I do always bring a spare belt with me to track "just in case"

akilbrid

I would put on an oil cooler

FASTFATBOY

Fixed it lol.

SunnydayDILYSI

The downside of an oil cooler is that it takes the car much longer to get up to temp (if only doing 3 track days a year, might be a net negative on engine wear). On the other hand, there are folks who are pushing the limit on temps (I believe that most are running 15+ days a year and are bringing the car closer to its limits). I have done that myself and ran 295 degree oil on a hot day one time before I got the Ron Davis. But I think that is asking for trouble. If you have a long sweeping turn at that temp the oil will be very thin and pressure will reduce, increasing the pressure on bearings.

SouthernSon

Unfortunately, that riddle is somewhat of a catch 22; you won't know what mods you would like for occasional track days that address your particular needs unless you do lots of track days. Following someone else's preferred setup is a good way to spend lots of money that won't work or satisfy you.

SunnydayDILYSI

Well said. I went out 100% stock (other than fluids and brakes) my first few weekends. Wait until you have a problem to fix it.

JeremyGSU

One simple fix for this when I wasn't tracking I just taped up my entire oil cooler with painters tape and left it on there until the next track day. I noticed it would warm up quicker and maintain higher temps when driving around by doing this. Takes only a few minutes and pulls right off when you're ready to track again.

63Corvette

Stock (rear) 10.5X18" wheels and 18" tires on all 4 corners. So cheap they are almost a free upgrade.

insertclevername

You are 100% correct to be concerned with a non thermostat controlled oil cooler setup for a street car. All the wear and tear from lack of lubrication is from startup oil temps. The faster the oil warms up the better, period. There is more wear being caused from low oil temps (under 190*), then high oil temps (300*). While cornering the issue is not thinner oil, there's no oil at the pickup. The number to hit for oil temp is 212*, this is important for a street car. Spend the extra money on something like this here http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...12f-p-500.html. I have not got my LG Rad an oil cooler yet, but I will be adding that part, and I consider it a must have (thermostat control).

It's even more counter problematic to run the 0w40 mobil 1. Unless you intend to use it for track only, and drain it right after. It will simply just lead to more wear at startup for daily use. With minimal 300* lubrication benefit over the 5w30.

OP
I have to agree with the comments those have already made, and echo them. Do a good full inspection of the vehicle from wheel studs, tires (no sidewall damage, plugs or worn out), suspension parts, fluid leaks, and so on. Do a set of mild track pads, with new part store rotors and motul 600 brake fluid. Change all the other fluids as well, to include clutch fluid and the 1qt extra oil. Get a SA2015 helmet and hit it.

GeorgeZNJ

When I first started this addiction, the first two years (14-16 track days) I stayed stock. Then it was seats, harness, brake pads, tires, engine mods, in that order.

FASTFATBOY

Don't sweat an oil cooler, get the radiator clean and you'll be fine.

fmcokc

Also go with the square setup on tires. Buy 2 more rear wheels and run the same tire on all 4 corners. Rotate as necessary.

FASTFATBOY

He's not fast, he's a novice. Even though he's a bike guy it will be a while before he's pushing the car anywhere near hard enough to consider an oil cooler. I'm decently quick and I never see over 285 oil temp, even at 300 I wouldn't sweat it unless I was DAMN fast on a slick tire.

*Disclaimer* I only run in the winter months at NOLA and Barber, October-April.

Get the radiator clean and seal it up and you'll be fine for a good long while...maybe never need a cooler.

63Corvette

Have to disagree. It depends on where you race. My C5 Z06 hits 300 degrees oil temp at CoTA, TWS, and MSR Cresson in about 3 to 5 laps in June, July and August..........sometimes even in September!