Metalgearsolid_x

Hi

I own a c5 vette and I'm considering trailing it for longer trips to track/autox. I have an event coming up next weekend. It's about 10-12 hours away from home. A place near home rents out steel trailers (sorry no Aluminum trailer. I'd love to rent those!). So it's a bit heavy (2200+ lbs). I actually made a thread in c5 Gen section and got some great answers about what strap to buy (T hook D link straps) and I did buy 4 of these (should be here tomm): http://www.awdirect.com/liftall-clus...ps/?hcs=tp28bl





It's got T hook with 2000 lb WLL which should be suffiecient. I was told I can attach the t hook to factory jack puck opening.

As time gets closer for me to rent the trailer (this week), I have a few questions as I have NEVER trailed before. I have a 2015 ram 1500, 5.7L Hemi V8, 3:55 gears, 6 speed auto, tow/haul mode (no tow package) with 17" oem wheels/tires. I did buy a electric brake controller from amazon but the rental co. told me their trailer uses "surge brakes" so brake controller isn't needed.

So here are my questions:

1. I guess the most important and obvious question - "Can I tow a 2400 lbs car trailer with 3200 lbs car (and lets say 300-400 lbs extra in truck bed)? I'll be trailing about 6,000 lbs.

2. After loading the car and strap with the T hook to D link, do I need to use anything else to stabilize the car? Not sure wheel choke behind tires (not sure if possible) or a strap in front or rear needed? I really do not car car sliding down or falling

3. How do I make the wooden ramps for the trailer ramps? Any tips?

4. When I trail the car, do I keep it in 1st gear and/or parking brake?

5. How tight do you pull the straps? do they need to be checked/re-tighten every x hours of driving?

6. As for safety, any locks that you recommend?




Thanks. Sorry for a lot of questions ..

Mark@AMT Motorsport

1. Yes you can tow that weight with that truck. Not gonna be a lot of head room though. You'll learn why people love 2500 Diesels for towing. That's what I have and I'm spoiled, but it's the way to go for sure.

2. I've seen some people use wheel chocks, but I just strap it down and go.

3. 3/4 inch hardwood and nails seems to be popular, but I use Race Ramps so I have no good info on making wood ones.

4. Parking brake.

5. I tighten them until they don't really move when you press on them with you foot. Usually recheck them after a half hour or so as the car will move and settle somewhere. After that they seem to be good.

6. I use a ball hitch lock when I take the trailer off and a regular master lock when it's on the the truck. Just trying to keep honest people away - if a pro really wants your car and trailer they'll get it. Which is why I also have a GPS tracker in the trailer.

Lawdogg

I pull a steel trailer with my Vette behind a V8 Colorado. Will pull at 75 mph no problem. Your Ram will do great. Leave the tranny in neutral as Mark stated, parking brake set. A 2"x12" will work fine for a ramp.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

There are a few models of Race Ramps which include an incline section that can be flipped over and used as a trailer ramp. This could be useful for someone who occasionally uses a rental trailer and could also use a set of low profile service ramps.

https://www.reverselogic.us/shop.htm...egory=12276141

zwoobah

What kind of trailer will you be renting?

The u-haul/penske trailers have their own strap and loading systems plus a fixed wheel stop, which are dummy-proof but not adjustable. With these trailers you may need to lay some 2x6"s under the front wheels to lift the car up and avoid catching the front lip on the wheel stop/front rail of the trailer.

A regular open deck trailer will not have fixed wheel stops, and you will need to use your own straps.

Make sure that your hitch ball mount is the correct height/drop and that you have the ball mounted in a direction that keeps the trailer level when connected to your truck.
If using a trailer without fixed wheel stops, load the car onto the trailer and move it forward or backward until the trailer is level and the truck's rear suspension is not too compressed. Very slightly nose-down on the trailer is more stable when towing than nose-up.

If using your own straps, ratchet them down just about as tight as they can go and then recheck after 15-30min on the road. The car will shift and settle a bit, so the straps will need another click of tightening.

Most car trailers use a 2 5/16" ball, so make sure you've got one ready.

Surge brakes work with a telescoping section in the trailer tongue. When you hit the brakes, the telescoping section slides toward the truck and activates the trailer brakes. These work well but there is a slight delay between you hitting the brake pedal and the trailer brakes kicking in. You may also need to put a pin in place to lock out the telescoping section and trailer brakes if you need to back up. The trailer rental guy should show you all this.

With 3.55 gears you'll be OK to pull that much weight but it will often pop out of overdrive. I've towed that much with my 4.7 V8/6spd manual 2008 Ram 1500 also with 3.55s and it was fine. Use tow/haul mode to keep the trans happy.

If a heavy truck passes you and is looking to merge back over to the right, flip your headlights quickly on and off to signal that there is room for him to merge. Don't flash the high beams, they are blinding in all the mirrors on a big truck. Often the trucker will flash the trailer tail lights to say thank-you. Truckers will show you the same courtesy when you need to merge back over. It's convenient to run with the big trucks on a long highway haul. You can pick up a lot of speed down hills, and they typically will idle forward in traffic instead of constantly starting/stopping.

Have fun!

Bill Dearborn

I would go a little differently with the straps and T hooks to get a little more versatility. Buy the straps with snap clips on each end and purchase the T hooks separately. I also use 4 screw pin anchor shackles to connect the T hook to the strap's snap clip. When off the trailer I just leave them all connected together. A little more expensive but then you can vary what you use the straps for. AW Direct sells the anchor shackles and T hooks separately. I have had the T Hooks and Anchor Shackles for 23 years while I have had several sets of straps due to them wearing out.

Bill

Metalgearsolid_x

Thank you So much for you reply. Exactly the answers I was looking for!

I know. I heard diesel 2500 are awesome for towing. But it might be overkill for me on a daily basis. I only drive on highways to get to work. I'll most likely trail 2 or 3 times a year, not many. But I heard good things about those 2500 Diesels. You said a "regular master lock when it's on the truck" - I am not sure if I can lock the trailer while it's connected to the truck. Any pic? I will be going to the place tomm morning, so I'll probably ask him but knowing beforehand prob wouldn't hurt.


Awesome! Will do. 2"x 12"? I will check out HOme depot most likely tomm.


Fred, Thank you. This is adventure will pretty much be my "trail run" for whether I will be trailing in future or no. If I do like it, I'll most likely buy one of those Aluminum Trailer and have you custom build a ramp for me (after I find out what my trailer ramp length will be)



I'm renting my trailer from here: http://www.traileroutlet.com/Documents/rent.htm . I'm assuming it's a typical steel or wooden deck tandem wheel open car trailer (no Uhaul/penske). Yeah during research, I stumbled upon that "Uhaul trailing thread". Our front spoilers are sooo low! It's halfway scraped!

I am hoping the trailer place will take care of the hitch ball and make sure it's correct height. I'll post a pic here once it's on.

GREAT tip about the making sure truck rear suspension and slightly nose down on the trailer! Also the passing trick! Thanks

Fantastic post with a lot of tips! I really appreciate it. I have learned a lot from this thread than last few week of research!



Hi Bill,
You're smart! I see what you're saying. I guess a little late as I have already bought it (arrived today). So as it how my setup is, will is wear out quickly? Which part wears out ?


Thanks everyone for your reply! Exactly the answers I was looking for!

loudes13

Test load the car the day before. Many of these trailers have a tougher time with lower and wider cars like a vette. Better to figure out solutions the night before you leave instead of when you are in a rush.

bigmackloud

All of the above is great advise. Especially the part about loading the day before.

For my very first track event, I rented a uhaul car trailer for my Miata. had surge brakes. worked fine. Error on the side of caution. Go slow even if other drivers don't like it. Better to have them pass you than to have an accident. And drive knowing that everyone around you is an idiot. One trip coming home from the track, I had 3 different people pull out in front of me at the last second. Idiots.

I have an 18' open trailer with a 2' dovetail. My biggest challenge is the nose of the car scrapping, even with my race ramps. My car is only partially lowered on the factory bolts. I make it work but it's close.

If you're using your own straps, I always cross my straps so they're at a diagonal. This helps prevent the car, not only from moving forward/backward, but also side to side.

My method, i set the parking brake when I first put the car on the trailer to keep it from moving. I set up all of my straps and get them lightly snug. I then take the car out of gear and release the parking brake. I then tighten all of the straps. then i set the parking brake, and put the car in gear. With this method, all of the load is on the straps. the parking brake and trans shouldn't be under load unless the car shifts on the trailer.

And while may trailers use a 2 5/16"... not all of them do. Mine doesn't. Uses a 2" ball. So best to ask ahead of time or buy one of those hitches with all three sizes.

I tow with my 2010 F150 screw 5.4L. Tow package, 3.55 gears, 6spd auto. Tows like a champ. It's no diesel, but for my use it's just fine.

EdsC6Z06

All good tips here. Driving with a trailer is a learning experience, but if you're defensive and use good judgment you'll be fine. Just remember that acceleration and braking times are significantly higher than unloaded.

Metalgearsolid_x

Quote:

Originally Posted by loudes13

Test load the car the day before. Many of these trailers have a tougher time with lower and wider cars like a vette. Better to figure out solutions the night before you leave instead of when you are in a rush.

I wish I could but I literally pickup trailer Thursday, go to work. Then come home at 11pm, load vette and leave 4 am Friday morning . I wish I could test the load as before.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigmackloud

All of the above is great advise. Especially the part about loading the day before.

For my very first track event, I rented a uhaul car trailer for my Miata. had surge brakes. worked fine. Error on the side of caution. Go slow even if other drivers don't like it. Better to have them pass you than to have an accident. And drive knowing that everyone around you is an idiot. One trip coming home from the track, I had 3 different people pull out in front of me at the last second. Idiots.

I have an 18' open trailer with a 2' dovetail. My biggest challenge is the nose of the car scrapping, even with my race ramps. My car is only partially lowered on the factory bolts. I make it work but it's close.

If you're using your own straps, I always cross my straps so they're at a diagonal. This helps prevent the car, not only from moving forward/backward, but also side to side.

My method, i set the parking brake when I first put the car on the trailer to keep it from moving. I set up all of my straps and get them lightly snug. I then take the car out of gear and release the parking brake. I then tighten all of the straps. then i set the parking brake, and put the car in gear. With this method, all of the load is on the straps. the parking brake and trans shouldn't be under load unless the car shifts on the trailer.

And while may trailers use a 2 5/16"... not all of them do. Mine doesn't. Uses a 2" ball. So best to ask ahead of time or buy one of those hitches with all three sizes.

I tow with my 2010 F150 screw 5.4L. Tow package, 3.55 gears, 6spd auto. Tows like a champ. It's no diesel, but for my use it's just fine.

I def. plan on driving slow especially it's being my first time. My car is lowered on factory bolt as well. So I am actually thinking to remove the front splitter on left and right. Literally takes 5 minutes. Def. like your loading idea. Though I heard everyone tell me to keep it out of gear during tow but seeing how you tighten the car first in neutral, then apply gear/hand brake, I don't think any pressure should go to trans. Great to hear. I have the newest 2015 hemi v8. I should be fine. But eventually when I get my aluminum trailer, it'll be a breeeze!

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdsC6Z06

All good tips here. Driving with a trailer is a learning experience, but if you're defensive and use good judgment you'll be fine. Just remember that acceleration and braking times are significantly higher than unloaded.

Thank you! Yes this trip will be the "testing" for the trailing. If goes well, my research for AL trailer will get more priority.

FASTFATBOY

Truck will do fine, put the car weight over the trailer wheels so you keep weight on the front tires. If the trucks bumper is real low move the car back on the trailer some.

Ramps

Metalgearsolid_x

Quote:

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

Truck will do fine, put the car weight over the trailer wheels so you keep weight on the front tires. If the trucks bumper is real low move the car back on the trailer some.

Ramps

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Your timing is awesome! I was LITERALLY going to search for "wooden trailer ramps" . Someone recommended above 2"x12", is that what you have? Did you use wooden screw or adhesive?

Bill Dearborn

The straps themselves wear out from exposure to the elements. They get wet and they see a fair amount of sun which destroys the fabric's strength over time.

Bill

meldog21

Awesome advice from everyone above.

I have a 18' steel trailer that I tow with my '96 E350 van, 5.8l V8. The trailer came with built in removable ramps. They're ok, but since nose clearance on the Corvette can be a problem I use my plastic garage ramps under the rear wheels of the van when loading/unloading. Its really easy and they don't take up much space in the van. When you're ready to load, just put the ramps in front or behind the rear wheels(which ever is easier depending on where you are loading, and only to the rear if you truck will not fit ramps in front of the rear wheels under the body) of your tow vehicle and pull on to them. Raising the back of the tow vehicle tilts the trailer down and makes the ramp to trailer transition easy(except when loading my buddy's' half mile top speed Corvette which is slammed to the ground).

I just searched youtube and couldn't find a video of the process so maybe I'll have to make one myself.

The only thing I would add to everyone else's great advice beside the plastic ramps is that I also attach a short safety strap between my front tow hook and the front of the trailer. Just in case my tie down straps were to fail. The car can only go forward a little, but can't come off the back of the trailer. I'm sure its overkill, but it's an easy step with a strap and a couple of carabiners that might prevent a huge loss and possible liability for me.

Sorry I don't have video or photos of the loading while using the plastic ramps to raise the rear wheels of the tow vehicle but here are a few pictures of my tow set up:










Follow everyone's advice above. Also, just so you know. My trailer was cheap. Only about $3k, so you don't have to spend a lot if you have the space and decide to buy a trailer, but it sure would be nice if I(or you) could afford one of those really cool aluminum tilting trailers.

Good luck on your trips and track experiences.

Dog

P.S. In case anyone is wondering what the hell is going on with the back of my car in the second picture, its my special Laguna Seca exhaust so I can pass sound restrictions at that track.

FASTFATBOY

2x6(measures 2x7) and both, you can't see it but a swivel handle is screwed to the other side to carry it.

bigmackloud

I do the same thing as Meldog21. I use wooden ramps like Fastboy posted a pic of to raise the rear of the truck. Then I use race ramps in conjunction with the trailer ramps to get the car on the trailer. Admittedly though, it's a pain in the butt. Those wooden ramps get heavy, especially if you're 2x12's. Race ramps, while expensive... are super nice.

So one suggestion, when you go shopping for a trailer of your own, get one with a low deck height. It will make your life much easier.

danh52

Dog,

How do you arrange the tie down straps? Especially the front straps.

Also, it looks like the bottom of the doors are below the top of the trailer fender. How do you deal with that when loading/unloading?

apex26

Lots of good advice here. I'd add make SURE you have correct tongue weight. Don't set the car too far back because it's low, use planks to get the weight distribution correct. Years ago I was towing back from Carlisle with a borrowed rig, (with plenty of tongue weight), the truck was too light for the implement trailer, and on a downhill curve it began to sway. As I got out of the gas it got worse. Luckily my engineer brother was with me and yelled "get off the brake and on the gas!" If you don't have something that can weigh 500 lbs, use a bath scale and put a plank equidistant with a block on one side and the bath scales on the other and multiply by 2. Sway can happen but from lack of tongue weight is a preventable danger.

nolimits

Some type of rock shield is handy too for front of trailer. Tow vehicles pummel your car. A formal alloy one, plywood w/2x4 reinforcement, fiberglass - ie a semi truck cab top air dam with a foot or so cut off the bottom. Any work. Make sure it's sturdy and positively attached.