2ooo-C5

I have a 96 C4 Z51. Has lowing pads on front and longer bolts on rear.

We took all the shims out of the car can can only get to -1.1 / -1.2 on the front. What are guys using to get more negative camber?

BrianCunningham

depending on the class

either offset bushing or adjustable a-arms

2ooo-C5

no class... just HPDE.

BrianCunningham

get the adjustables

I'm real happy with them
a lot STIFFER than the stockers

l98tpi

This is how you get more neg camber on the front wheels of your C4.


https://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts/c4...it-detail.html

jaa1992

Adjustable upper A-Arms!

I tried everything else on my 92, 0 with the stock stuff. -1 with shaving down the upper mount "washers" and offset bushings.

2ooo-C5

weird... Im -1.2 and stock other then a lowering block in the front.

Aardwolf

I cut down the conical spacers and get -2.5 fine on mine.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-per-side.html

rfn026

I had to go to the VBP offset bushings. If you do that you need to keep an eye on them because VBP uses a fairly soft poly. They do wear out.



Richard Newton
C4 Alignment Thoughts

jaa1992

I have found over the years that my 92 is an outlier. Its the only one I know of that 0 was the best camber it could achieve.

The adjustable A-arms give you some caster adjustment as well.

Kevova

Upper control arm shaft appears off set. Why can't you rotate it 180°?

jaa1992

Tried it - camber went positive that way!

Got the adjustable arms at a great price a few years ago. love the adjustability.

Solofast

Over the years that I was running stock C4's (1989 thru 2000) I had 11 different cars and with all the shims out in the front they were all in the range of -.9 to -1.2, with most around -1.

Typically the right front will have about one to two tenths more of a degree than the left. All the frames were made that way. I always called them my "Indy" cars cause they loved to turn left... Not so good in stock form for most road courses...

WARNING >> STOCK C4 SETUP TIP!!!! To get the cars to turn both ways in stock form I usually jacked some cross weight (added weight to RF and LR) to help the LF which didn't have as much negative camber. You can do this with the rear spring screws by tightening up the LR screw as much as you can and unwinding the RR until you can just get the cotter key into the bolt...

The offset lower bushings are a good way to go and if you want to stay in some classes where the adjustable upper arms are a no-no.