sccaGT1racer

Does this C7 That's on rails have mag ride like yours? Have you pulled the shocks and inspected them?

NTMD8R

all C7 Z06 have magride.

I have not pulled the shocks.... I could do that.

KBoltz

Ok,

Not trying to be a dick, but Gary, Peaches is a smoother driver than you. How does the car handle for her? I mean, is she like 1.5 to 2.0 seconds slower than you are?

Peaches and Brenda both drive smooth as glass, where you are a scalpel and I am a chainsaw. If it effects her driving style, then I agree, something is seriously wrong.

I am wondering if the Magride has some issues we are not seeing? Any codes? Turning everything OFF? Brenda tends to drive my C6 in Competition Mode where I turn it all off. Courses that are more technical, she beats me. Courses that let me lay the smack down, I beat her. I am aggressive just like you. I remember a friend of mine in College, one Professor Bill Van Tassell telling me constantly that smooth is fast.

NTMD8R

Ken,,, no you're not being a dick.
I know I'm aggressive, but Pat is 1-2 seconds behind me still... no matter the course.

Today, out with the Porsches.
OK, a fairly straight run (a couple of pylons... a sort of slalom) for the entire length
(900 meters), then a moderate 180 back and through a couple of gates to another 180
at the timing end, then another moderate 180 degree with a couple of offset gates to the far end again, then another tighter 180 to a really tight 6 cone slalom.



So into 2nd gear and down the long first straight... hitting 80 kmh, brake moderately
for the first 180.... can't get on the gas too early or it will slide out, then smooth heavy
accelerating to the near end..... hitting 90 kmh, brake moderately around this
180 degrees turn, again smooth accelerate out and dip around the 2 offset gates to slow you down coming to the last far end 180. Heavy braking to get around this last 180 heading into the "ugly" tight slalom. Can't accelerate at all or else it comes out,
until we are straight. Maintain steady speed through the 6 cones in the slalom,
backsiding, head for the stop box.

Best time was a 48.5, 2nd was a 48.6, mine (3rd) was a 48.9.

2 other guys drove my car (Rich Sandor was one).
Rich is a driving instructor... he really can drive a car.
In the past both of us driving my C6 were always 1 and 2 among
all the drivers out at the Porsche events.

He said... DAMN.... I can't get on it.
I told him about all my woes.
He understands.
The other guy.... same thing.

Everyone who can drive well today said that if I could have gotten on it
coming out of the corners, I would have easily been a low 48, or even a 47.

Now this was a long fast course, with 3 moderate turns.
Put us on a "miata" course, with 8 or 9 tight turns.... I cannot do well.

The RE71 tires are supposed to come in next week, so I hope we have them
on the car for next Sunday event.

OH Yeah....
On my second run, coming around the 180 turn near work station #3,
I gave it a bit too much gas..... SPIN !!!!!!
And it really SNAP SPINS... no time to back off and counter steer.

blackozvet

What about a smaller rear sway bar ?

NTMD8R

I've tried various combinations of bars...

OEM (Magride) Front sway bar, OEM (magride) Rear sway bar
LG Front sway bar, LG Rear sway bar
LG Front sway bar, OEM (magride) Rear sway bar
OEM (Magride) Front sway bar, OEM (Z51) Rear sway bar
OEM (Magride) Front sway bar, no Rear sway bar

Now I am back to
OEM (Magride) Front sway bar, OEM (magride) Rear sway bar

KBoltz

Then something is seriously wrong. Try the tires first, if that doesn't help then I would start looking into the trying out the sways with the new tires. Then on to the shocks.

I am going to talk to my buddy Terry Fair, who owns Vorschlag and see if he has any input.

mountainbiker2

Tire pressures?

NTMD8R

I've tried tire pressures all over the board.
With R888 tires, they apparently work well at high or low pressures.
That has certainly been my experience the past years.

But... something else has just come to my thinking (finally !!!!!)...
My car has MagRide (electronically controlled shocks, among other things).
Of course, I have always used "Track" mode, and I also turn off all the "nannies"
(traction control and active handling).
I also do not use any of the subordinate settings within "track" mode
(Eco, Dry Sport1, Sport2, Race).
I have tried all of these, and they interfere with engine performance too much.
They also turn off traction control and active handling, but the interference
with power is just too invasive (for me).
I have tried all the various subordinate settings, and power is definitely
reduced.

But.... what if I was to just try "Touring" or "Sport" mode for autocross.
I typically drive it on the street in Sport mode.
I don't really care what is feels like on the street in relation to shocks or ride harshness.
I just want the car to handle well on the autocross course.

So perhaps trying autocross in "Sport" or even "Touring", again with the traction control
and active handling off.
Hmmmmm... this might allow for more roll and get more "stick",
and allow me to get on it sooner.

Unfortunately there seems to be no source where we can find any "numbers"
on spring rates, shock settings (in the various modes), etc.
If we had this information we could certainly make some informed decisions
rather than this $$$$$ hit and miss.

I'll try this next event.

TorontoC6

Check your rear castor.

NTMD8R

Rear Caster has been checked and adjusted by my GM dealer.
It was -1.0 and -1.9.... so they set it to zero several months ago.

Metalgearsolid_x

Even when you autox with ALL nannies off in Track mode, is there anything (other than ABS) that interferes with your run? if not, this setting should be the fastest. We autox with everything off in our c5s. Though can be handful initially, this no nannies will yield fastest course time. I think in sport or other mode, the traction control will be too intrusive.

Good luck

NTMD8R

Not that I can detect.
I agree, this should be fastest.... and I think it would be.
It is, if the course contains only a couple of turns, but with many turns and sweepers,
trying to accelerate out of them... spin.

savage

NTMD8R, it seems my tests on a 2016 a8 mag-ride car mean little to you ( thats fine but you have helped me with your posts, i read them all ) so i will just keep putting my research out there for you/everyone. this is coming from a guy ( me) that autocrossed a 2014 base a6, 2015 z-51 a8 and now a 2016 a8 z-51 magride. i have been to hell and back trying to fix oversteer on c7( the factory understeer is long gone once i put 295/30/18 a7 hoosiers on the front, now i have 315/30/18;s up front) my fix for oversteer is!!!!! smaller rear z51 non-mag bar , 0.25 degrees rear toe in on both sides, i will bump that to 0.30 each side next alignment, and 335/30/18 a7 hoosiers. i have been texting/ inboxing two other guys that are happy with my setup. my last event i was the fastest v8 RWD car there( 7th overall) i beat cars i have not touched sence getting in c7 every run. i really pissed a few guys off that have been loving beating a c7( c6 zo6's for one) im just putting this information out their do what you will with it. fyi i understand the 305/?/19 r71r should be released today _ that tire will be a great help for you over the 275 or 285's most guys run on rear of c7.thanks for reading

savage

I have done more than my fair share of research on c7's lol

NTMD8R

Savage,
I do appreciate your input and research.
I too have spent a lot of $$$ trying different sway bars, alignments, and now wheels/tires.
I do think the 19/20 wheels are a lot of my problem.
That is why I am going to try 18/19.

I am trying to NOT make several changes at once, to try and see what effect single changes make.
My next thing is the 18/19 wheels, with RE71 (275/35/18, 285/35/19) tires.

I currently have -2.9 front with 1\4" toe out
and -1.9 rear with 1\4" toe in.
This is on the OEM 19/20 wheels with R888 265/35/19 and 285/35/20 tires.
Turn in now seems very good (hardly any understeer).
But I still get that damned oversteer... and it just snaps out.

When I had the 19x10 and 20x11 wheels with R888 295/30/19 and 315/30/20 tires,
oversteer was almost dangerous.
So the narrower wheels/tires seemed to help a bit.
(Which I don't understand... wider tires should be better, right ????)

If these newer wheels/tires are good, then I'll try the LG front bar again, with the Z51 rear bar, to see if it gets better.
And I'll try less aggressive alignment... again, to see what difference it makes.

Test, test, Test

Metalgearsolid_x

//offtopic//

Savage, what wheels are these? Would you mind sharing the front and rear spec? Thanks

Lawdogg

I'm more of a roadcourse driver than autoxer, but isn't -1.9 rear camber a little much for putting power down. I run max -1.5 rear.

NTMD8R

dogg,
when I was using the wider wheels/tires, the only way I could get the entire rear tire
surface to touch the ground, was to put that much camber in.
I have left it as such for now, so I don't make too many changes at one time.

savage

CCW,s --custom cut wheels, i got them used from a c6 base car, $3,000 new for a set , i paid $1,700 scratched up, powder coated them yellow now black, fronts are 18x10 offset 58mm- i wish they were 60mm-295/30/18 works great on them but i have 315's on them and get away with it because of my -3.0 camber up front. rears are 18x11 offset 78mm-wish they were 75mm-i run a 3mm spacer with 315's and nothing with the 335's-without spacer they touch upper a-arm at full droop but have to do it to run 335's so they dont hit inner fender lip. ok enough of them -- my favorite wheels forgeline no issues running 315's up front and 335's in rear- 18x10 offset 60mm fronts, 18x11 offset 79mm rear- these dont touch a-arm at full droop because the steel is much thinner than they aluminum ccw;s. hope this helps