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Absolutely. WHEN you have a bad off, the splitter is going to rip off and take the radiator support (and radiator) with it.
I don't disagree, but I mean, it's going to do that anyways if the splitter gets smashed into the radiator support. Those supports aren't exactly known for holding up to curbs and driveways.
You could use some sort of mounting system that would rip off before the radiator support would.
I have a flipped radiator to feed the chimney that exits my waterfall hood. That being said, I fabricated a new bracket that's stronger and higher that the stock piece. Despite that I still won't tie the splitter into it. Ideally you want the splitter to come off and you run over it. I'll try to find some pictures of some of my previous "good ideas" and the resulting damage.
I have a flipped radiator to feed the chimney that exits my waterfall hood. That being said, I fabricated a new bracket that's stronger and higher that the stock piece. Despite that I still won't tie the splitter into it. Ideally you want the splitter to come off and you run over it. I'll try to find some pictures of some of my previous "good ideas" and the resulting damage.
Yea, eventually I'm going to flip my radiator, I just haven't gotten to that point yet. Need a custom intake first.
I'm mulling over using cables mounted to the bumper support to pull the splitter up, that way it can flex up to go over things. Might use some shear bolts to hold the cables so I can make sure they don't rip anything out.
I'm using a pair of ~1/16" aircraft cables to secure the F of mine(BMW E36) to the bumper. It's mounted pretty solidly to the F cross member at the rear. I can stand on it, but it can still flex upward a little with contact.
I'm using a pair of ~1/16" aircraft cables to secure the F of mine(BMW E36) to the bumper. It's mounted pretty solidly to the F cross member at the rear. I can stand on it, but it can still flex upward a little with contact.
That more or less exactly what I'm trying to pull off. That way I can run over things without causing any permanent damage, but the splitter won't flex downwards.
Almost finished. I made brackets so I could use the nuts sticking out of the fender. Not ideal, but I'll have it attached at the splitter so it'll rip off long before it damages the fender. The fender there is quite strong and it's only holding the splitter near the wheels where there is very little force anyway. Also mounting the splitter from the bottom with titanium plates for long wear and badass sparks!
Almost finished. I made brackets so I could use the nuts sticking out of the fender. Not ideal, but I'll have it attached at the splitter so it'll rip off long before it damages the fender. The fender there is quite strong and it's only holding the splitter near the wheels where there is very little force anyway. Also mounting the splitter from the bottom with titanium plates for long wear and badass sparks!
Mark- why didn't you turn your bracket 90 degrees counterclockwise and use the nutserts in the frame rail instead of those little studs that are only attached to the fiberglass inner fender?
Mark- why didn't you turn your bracket 90 degrees counterclockwise and use the nutserts in the frame rail instead of those little studs that are only attached to the fiberglass inner fender?
There's not a great angle from the frame down to the wheel side of the splitter. The direct path is right through the brake duct. To get over the brake duct to the outside of the splitter I either need to make a bracket to that goes real high to get a less-steep angle on the rod support, or a strong bracket that comes straight out from the frame 5 or 6 inches. Both were more work than I felt like doing at the moment since I'm loading up for WGI on Sunday. I'll monitor everything close while I'm testing and I can make changes when I get back if needed.
Last edited by StreetSpeed; 08-17-2016 at 10:22 AM.
There's not a great angle from the frame down to the wheel side of the splitter. The direct path is right through the brake duct. To get over the brake duct to the outside of the splitter I either need to make a bracket to that goes real high to get a less-steep angle on the rod support, or a strong bracket that comes straight out from the frame 5 or 6 inches. Both were more work than I felt like doing at the moment since I'm loading up for WGI on Sunday. I'll monitor everything close while I'm testing and I can make changes when I get back if needed.
Yeah... I keep forgetting how much room the stock brake ducts take up. I've got a hybrid setup so it's less of a problem. Are you coming to the Glen with us on the 29-30?
Yeah... I keep forgetting how much room the stock brake ducts take up. I've got a hybrid setup so it's less of a problem. Are you coming to the Glen with us on the 29-30?
Negative. I'll be there this coming Monday and Tuesday with Audi. If I'm not fast enough (or car is still not running well) I'll squeeze in a day with Kojote or Chin before Nationals.
Sig check! Shoulda mailed you a splitter with the studs, lol. We made the one on Marks car you pictured.
Tegris, alumilite, are all great, but they lack stiffness, and cost too much compared to a properly spec'ed out plywood. Carbon is another option, but once you rip one off, you won't want to spend that money again.
2014 NASA Texas TT1 Champion
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2019 NASA Texas TT2 Champion
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Sig check! Shoulda mailed you a splitter with the studs, lol. We made the one on Marks car you pictured.
Tegris, alumilite, are all great, but they lack stiffness, and cost too much compared to a properly spec'ed out plywood. Carbon is another option, but once you rip one off, you won't want to spend that money again.
That's more or less what I've found out. Once I get my template made a new splitter costs me all of $40.
Sig check! Shoulda mailed you a splitter with the studs, lol. We made the one on Marks car you pictured.
Tegris, alumilite, are all great, but they lack stiffness, and cost too much compared to a properly spec'ed out plywood. Carbon is another option, but once you rip one off, you won't want to spend that money again.
Sig check! Shoulda mailed you a splitter with the studs, lol. We made the one on Marks car you pictured.
Tegris, alumilite, are all great, but they lack stiffness, and cost too much compared to a properly spec'ed out plywood. Carbon is another option, but once you rip one off, you won't want to spend that money again.
Do you guys have any documentation on how you made the one for Mark? I've got the basic design of mine done, I'm just dicking around with the front mounting points right now and it's being a PITA.
One more vote for plywood and mounts that can flex upward....
Matt I didn't realize your radiator was lying perfectly flat. Never seen one tilted forward that far. I assumed the air would need to hit it more perpendicular to the surface, but obviously it's working for you.
In other news I got my car to WGI today and got to experience the new plywood splitter. Works great - had to add another 2 degrees of wing in the rear to balance out.
Great design Latebreak. Basically a hinge but the whole assembly works to create the chimney for the hood extractor. That's my philosophy... let the fascia flex upward in a bad off... it will recover. Nice work.
08-13-2016, 04:58 PM
