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I know this car has one and the owner loves it, but I don't have any details. I was curious if anyone on the forum had specifics on their setup similar to this.
After building my first splitter out of plywood, I was bent on finding a better alternative. Over the years I used Aluma-Light (too flimsy), Tegris (too expensive), aluminum (too unforgiving AND too heavy) and now I am back to plywood. If you purchase a good grade of marine plywood (Okoume) and give it a coat or two of fiberglass resin, you will find its strong, light weight and cheap enough to make two at a time and have one ready for that really bad off that introduces you to a divot that you didn't know was there.
Use 1/2" plywood on my M3 race car. Stiff, cheap, readily available... and actually not that heavy!
Next version I think I'll try ~1/4" ply with fiberglass.
Try 3/8" with fiberglass. Try the Marine Grade Okume. It's only about 28 lbs for a full sheet and you are going to be using less than half a sheet.
1/4 is too thin. Remember you should be able to stand on your splitter without it breaking. (Although I prefer to test by rocking the car with your foot on the splitter while it's on a two post lift. You should see the whole car move at least 1/4 - 1/2".
Last edited by Hi Volts Z06; 08-02-2016 at 12:06 PM.
I made my own splitter for a C6 Z06 with a sheet of 10mm Alumalite material and cut it with a jig saw. It it is very stiff and with stands approx 170mph at Autoclub Speedway Roval track with no issues.
Just took a little bit of time crawling around the bottom of the car to try to figure out where to mount it. But it is very functional, lightweight, and only cost about $150.
Here are a couple old threads that had some good info as well:
A couple of years back I was working with a Nationwide team. What was interesting was the they used wear on the splitter as a way of evaluating the handling of the car. Keep in mind that this was on an oval.
They were looking for even wear on the splitter. I thought that was interesting.
A couple of years back I was working with a Nationwide team. What was interesting was the they used wear on the splitter as a way of evaluating the handling of the car. Keep in mind that this was on an oval.
They were looking for even wear on the splitter. I thought that was interesting.
Richard Newton
That's pretty interesting. I can tell you that after a spring rate change earlier this year I do have a totally different wear pattern on my splitter so I think your statement is very valid.
Okume is great for this kind of thing. It has one of the best strength to weight ratios of any plywood. That's why we use it in race boats. Another advantage is if you get the good stuff, it's made with glue that won't come apart if it gets wet.
You really need to add fiberglass to both sides if you want it to be stiff and last. By glassing both sides with 6oz or 8oz cloth you'll have excellent strength and great stiffness. As a rule of thumb, adding one layer of 6 oz fiberglass on each side will make a 3/16 piece of okume stiffer and stronger than a 1/4 inch piece. If you do 1/4 with a single layer of 8oz glass on both sides you'll be plenty strong. Also you can get fiberglass that looks like carbon fiber and if you do that folks will think you're high tech..
The only problem with this is WHEN you hit it hard enough to break it, it won't bend as much and it's going to shatter. You'll notice I didn't say if.. But if it's cheap and easy, it's worth it to do it that way.
With proper the support/design, Alumalite is the perfect choice. Most everyone I know with aero uses it.
I was going to go to this eventually. Its lighter and insanely ridged. Bad part is, if you hit anything, it bends and that's it. The ABS plastic will go right back into position. pros and cons...
Exactly my problem with Alumalight. Part of this really depends on how low your car is. I have dropped splindles and run an 1 1/2" spacer between my splitter and fascia. That being said- splitter to ground contact is imminent. If your right height is to the point where you have 4" clearance, then sure....Alumalight is fine.
One of my old setups was a hybrid design using Tegris for the actual splitter and Alumalight for the undertray. That was a great setup in terms of strength and light weight but required the Tegris splitter to be mounted so rigidly that a bad off (caused by an ECBM failure) took off the splitter, front fascia, radiator support and brand new $700.00 Ron Davis radiator. Kinda left a bad taste in my mouth....
The Porsche 928 boys have gone around in circles regarding splitters and splitter designs. Some have done readings with pressure monitors all over the car to see how much PSI and vacuum is being created. Warning, lots of drama and some are a long read, but in the end very educational since they post a lot of physical data:
About $90 for a 4'X8' sheet, available at sign shops/suppliers. He has a template made from Masonite he uses to cut the new splitter with a router. Works like a charm, light and inexpensive.
08-02-2016, 08:53 AM
Plyboard splitter?
