Need tested cooling direction
09-28-2016, 10:18 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Need tested cooling direction
Guys
I have a 2007 C6 Z06, Dewitt's Radiator with cooler for power steering, after market oil cooler in front of the radiator and separate trans cooler in the rear of the car. My water temps are waaaaaaaay too high. I have an LG GT2 splitter and undertray and vented hood, although not as vented as the world challenge style hoods. Thought about Tikt like set up and moving oil cooler to the side, but I don't have time for that before I go to VIR at the end of October. I can redesign the support in front of the radiator, seal up the flow of air into and out of the radiator. I do not want to lose the air conditioning yet... What have you guys done? Any pictures for guidance?
I have a 2007 C6 Z06, Dewitt's Radiator with cooler for power steering, after market oil cooler in front of the radiator and separate trans cooler in the rear of the car. My water temps are waaaaaaaay too high. I have an LG GT2 splitter and undertray and vented hood, although not as vented as the world challenge style hoods. Thought about Tikt like set up and moving oil cooler to the side, but I don't have time for that before I go to VIR at the end of October. I can redesign the support in front of the radiator, seal up the flow of air into and out of the radiator. I do not want to lose the air conditioning yet... What have you guys done? Any pictures for guidance?
Last edited by Radiologue; 09-28-2016 at 10:20 PM.
09-28-2016, 10:51 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
I briefly hit 240. It progressively marches up to 230 every session and typically maintains 230 or just below with my heater blowing wide open and then Pit out to avoid the march higher. I do not know what the oil temps were, but I would guess high as well.
Last edited by Radiologue; 09-28-2016 at 11:02 PM.
09-29-2016, 06:52 AM
#4
Safety Car
That's on the high side but I wouldn't be alarmed. Most engine builders would not be alarmed at 240-degrees.
If you're using a 15-lb cap the water won't boil until 250-degrees.
You might try draining the system and adding distilled water and 30% (or less) antifreeze.
Pure antifreeze though has a higher viscosity rating than plain distilled water. As you increase the antifreeze percentage in your cooling system the ability to adsorb heat from the engine goes down. A higher percentage of antifreeze retards the radiator's ability to get rid of the coolant heat. This is a case of where less is actually better. You should probably never use over thirty percent anti freeze in your racecar’s cooling system.
It's worth a try. Here's the article I wrote on all this a year back.
Richard Newton
If you're using a 15-lb cap the water won't boil until 250-degrees.
You might try draining the system and adding distilled water and 30% (or less) antifreeze.
Pure antifreeze though has a higher viscosity rating than plain distilled water. As you increase the antifreeze percentage in your cooling system the ability to adsorb heat from the engine goes down. A higher percentage of antifreeze retards the radiator's ability to get rid of the coolant heat. This is a case of where less is actually better. You should probably never use over thirty percent anti freeze in your racecar’s cooling system.
It's worth a try. Here's the article I wrote on all this a year back.
Richard Newton
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sean.b (11-02-2016)
09-29-2016, 08:18 AM
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
That's on the high side but I wouldn't be alarmed. Most engine builders would not be alarmed at 240-degrees.
If you're using a 15-lb cap the water won't boil until 250-degrees.
You might try draining the system and adding distilled water and 30% (or less) antifreeze.
Pure antifreeze though has a higher viscosity rating than plain distilled water. As you increase the antifreeze percentage in your cooling system the ability to adsorb heat from the engine goes down. A higher percentage of antifreeze retards the radiator's ability to get rid of the coolant heat. This is a case of where less is actually better. You should probably never use over thirty percent anti freeze in your racecar’s cooling system.
It's worth a try. Here's the article I wrote on all this a year back.
Richard Newton
If you're using a 15-lb cap the water won't boil until 250-degrees.
You might try draining the system and adding distilled water and 30% (or less) antifreeze.
Pure antifreeze though has a higher viscosity rating than plain distilled water. As you increase the antifreeze percentage in your cooling system the ability to adsorb heat from the engine goes down. A higher percentage of antifreeze retards the radiator's ability to get rid of the coolant heat. This is a case of where less is actually better. You should probably never use over thirty percent anti freeze in your racecar’s cooling system.
It's worth a try. Here's the article I wrote on all this a year back.
Richard Newton
09-29-2016, 09:28 AM
#6
Drifting
Also, seal up the radiator! Period. This is the biggest thing that people miss and it makes all the difference in the world. Get creative with thick foam, zip ties, double-side tap, small pieces of sheet metal/aluminum, and/or Gorilla tape. If there is any amount of holes around the radiator, the incoming air will seek it out and go the route of least resistance. Don't forget the bottom. I have seen well sealed radiators that still had a gap between the splitter and the bottom of the radiator as well.
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sean.b (11-02-2016)
09-29-2016, 06:30 PM
#9
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How much power is the car making? Seems on the high side as well for what you have listed, but I generally don't run PS coolers in the radiator (if I am reading that right).
Street car or strictly track car?
Street car or strictly track car?
09-29-2016, 11:39 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Yes, the former owner repurposed the trans cooler to a PS cooler and installed a separate trans cooler out back.
I am only driving the car on the track, but occasionally head to a car meet or whatever. I have been avoiding the urge to completely gut the car because I know that I would rather have a different car at that point....like an SLC Aero with an LS motor. Way lighter and faster and probably safer...caged.
10-01-2016, 04:41 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Evans Water Pump. Install one and end your cooling problems instantly (unless you have something wrong with your present system). Talk to them and let them spec exactly what you need. It's the best unit out there and made a huge difference in my temps.
10-01-2016, 05:35 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
https://nasaspeed.news/tech/engine/r...ic-principles/
Good article that I am going to try to duplicate
Good article that I am going to try to duplicate
Last edited by Radiologue; 10-01-2016 at 05:36 PM.
10-01-2016, 06:12 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
Does anyone run Evans waterless coolant?
10-01-2016, 07:08 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
FYI.... I'm running a flipped radiator and ducted intake with a chimney hood. Adds downforce and helps cooling but the Evans is the biggest bang for the buck. Don't bother with the special coolant....just use water. Evans makes any LS application you can throw at them. Just call and talk to their cooling engineers and they will get you set up with whatever you need.
10-11-2016, 04:30 PM
#16
On my 2007 Z06 I'm still running the factory radiator with A/C, no thermostat, the bypass and heater blocked off, and after a 20 minute session my oil temps are maybe 250 and the coolant is around 230. No vented hood or anything like that. Mostly stock powertrain, but full suspension and Hoosier DOT race tires.
10-13-2016, 12:09 AM
#17
Drifting
If this is the car I am thinking? The fluid plumbing and cooler mounts are works of art, hood would be a Halltech?
Are your temperature readings taken via glances at the gauge, or on track data session logs?
Is shroud still sealed up?
If the same sweet car, Trans and rear end cooler were moved to the rear of the car based on track data logs.
Tune may be a bit rich for the street or drag strip but how is it on datalogs at Daytona or Sebring? Best to leave some on the table to protect that pricy motor. If its the car Im thinking it is well built and set up for roadcourse use. I have seen some guys that tune by a dyno be WAY to lean for endurance usage.
I have done a couple of threads on oil and cooling mods for C6Z's.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...iscussion.html
Just to make sure, you are running with AC off and a low concentration of coolant, or water and wetter?
Are your temperature readings taken via glances at the gauge, or on track data session logs?
Is shroud still sealed up?
If the same sweet car, Trans and rear end cooler were moved to the rear of the car based on track data logs.
Tune may be a bit rich for the street or drag strip but how is it on datalogs at Daytona or Sebring? Best to leave some on the table to protect that pricy motor. If its the car Im thinking it is well built and set up for roadcourse use. I have seen some guys that tune by a dyno be WAY to lean for endurance usage.
I have done a couple of threads on oil and cooling mods for C6Z's.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...iscussion.html
Just to make sure, you are running with AC off and a low concentration of coolant, or water and wetter?
Last edited by blkbrd69; 10-13-2016 at 12:13 AM.
10-13-2016, 05:39 AM
#18
Advanced
Thread Starter
If this is the car I am thinking? The fluid plumbing and cooler mounts are works of art, hood would be a Halltech?
Are your temperature readings taken via glances at the gauge, or on track data session logs?
Is shroud still sealed up?
If the same sweet car, Trans and rear end cooler were moved to the rear of the car based on track data logs.
Tune may be a bit rich for the street or drag strip but how is it on datalogs at Daytona or Sebring? Best to leave some on the table to protect that pricy motor. If its the car Im thinking it is well built and set up for roadcourse use. I have seen some guys that tune by a dyno be WAY to lean for endurance usage.
I have done a couple of threads on oil and cooling mods for C6Z's.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...iscussion.html
Just to make sure, you are running with AC off and a low concentration of coolant, or water and wetter?
Are your temperature readings taken via glances at the gauge, or on track data session logs?
Is shroud still sealed up?
If the same sweet car, Trans and rear end cooler were moved to the rear of the car based on track data logs.
Tune may be a bit rich for the street or drag strip but how is it on datalogs at Daytona or Sebring? Best to leave some on the table to protect that pricy motor. If its the car Im thinking it is well built and set up for roadcourse use. I have seen some guys that tune by a dyno be WAY to lean for endurance usage.
I have done a couple of threads on oil and cooling mods for C6Z's.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...iscussion.html
Just to make sure, you are running with AC off and a low concentration of coolant, or water and wetter?
In all fairness, the one time the temps spiked...could the air have been on low...I don't know with certainty, but I can say that I ran other sessions with the heat on with water temps maintained below 230. Again, this is me glancing at the gauges while driving.
The flow of air into and out of the radiator could be improved and better sealed. I believe the hood is a Motor City Mold vented carbon fiber hood, much like the Halltech.
And yes, I am most interested in protecting this engine. The car is great! Honestly one of the best cars I have ever driven, and I am a former tube chassis Porsche owner. Besting newer cars like C7 Z06's and Porsche GT3 RS's far exceeded my expectations, so I could not be happier. I'm sure my driving helps, but much of the speed is because of the confidence my new to me vette gives me.
In the end this is too nice of a car, for me, to modify any further. Given my desire to continue track driving for the next two decades, I think I am going to move toward a dedicated race car and keep this car in its pristine state.
Last edited by Radiologue; 10-13-2016 at 05:44 AM.
10-20-2016, 02:33 AM
#19
Instructor
Radio,
Definitely consider the dedicated race car. But, make sure it is proven. I have a C6Z06 that I have been converting it to a dedicated race car. I've run into cooling issues as well. If you have a Dewitt's radiator, be careful of running no antifreeze! I had a brand new radiator, develop via electrolysis, a dozen holes sitting in my garage on blocks over the summer. The radiator was 4 months old. Measure the voltage of your fluid with respect to ground. If it's over .250 read up on radiator electrolysis. I had high oil temps at VIR. 290-305 when pushing hard. I added an improved oil cooler with custom mount. Oil temps dropped to 250 max. But water temp was up to 240 after 5 hard laps. My intermediate change is to create a custom aluminum sealed intake ducting for the radiator. I'll test this at Chin this weekend at VIR. I also moved my trans cooler to the rear of the car. Trans gets Hot too not sure if it is the diff or the trans is biggest contributor. Chasing the thermal challenges is a proving to be difficult. If the sealed ducting up front doesn't work, I'm leaning the radiator forward to creat more airflow around the oil cooler to the radiator. There is not a lot of room above the oil cooler to get cool air to the upper half of the radiator with stock setup. We should talk about this... I'm interested to understand your setup. I'll pm you.
Definitely consider the dedicated race car. But, make sure it is proven. I have a C6Z06 that I have been converting it to a dedicated race car. I've run into cooling issues as well. If you have a Dewitt's radiator, be careful of running no antifreeze! I had a brand new radiator, develop via electrolysis, a dozen holes sitting in my garage on blocks over the summer. The radiator was 4 months old. Measure the voltage of your fluid with respect to ground. If it's over .250 read up on radiator electrolysis. I had high oil temps at VIR. 290-305 when pushing hard. I added an improved oil cooler with custom mount. Oil temps dropped to 250 max. But water temp was up to 240 after 5 hard laps. My intermediate change is to create a custom aluminum sealed intake ducting for the radiator. I'll test this at Chin this weekend at VIR. I also moved my trans cooler to the rear of the car. Trans gets Hot too not sure if it is the diff or the trans is biggest contributor. Chasing the thermal challenges is a proving to be difficult. If the sealed ducting up front doesn't work, I'm leaning the radiator forward to creat more airflow around the oil cooler to the radiator. There is not a lot of room above the oil cooler to get cool air to the upper half of the radiator with stock setup. We should talk about this... I'm interested to understand your setup. I'll pm you.
Last edited by 1badtantrum; 10-20-2016 at 02:35 AM.
10-20-2016, 09:28 AM
#20
Advanced
Thread Starter
Radio,
Definitely consider the dedicated race car. But, make sure it is proven. I have a C6Z06 that I have been converting it to a dedicated race car. I've run into cooling issues as well. If you have a Dewitt's radiator, be careful of running no antifreeze! I had a brand new radiator, develop via electrolysis, a dozen holes sitting in my garage on blocks over the summer. The radiator was 4 months old. Measure the voltage of your fluid with respect to ground. If it's over .250 read up on radiator electrolysis. I had high oil temps at VIR. 290-305 when pushing hard. I added an improved oil cooler with custom mount. Oil temps dropped to 250 max. But water temp was up to 240 after 5 hard laps. My intermediate change is to create a custom aluminum sealed intake ducting for the radiator. I'll test this at Chin this weekend at VIR. I also moved my trans cooler to the rear of the car. Trans gets Hot too not sure if it is the diff or the trans is biggest contributor. Chasing the thermal challenges is a proving to be difficult. If the sealed ducting up front doesn't work, I'm leaning the radiator forward to creat more airflow around the oil cooler to the radiator. There is not a lot of room above the oil cooler to get cool air to the upper half of the radiator with stock setup. We should talk about this... I'm interested to understand your setup. I'll pm you.
Definitely consider the dedicated race car. But, make sure it is proven. I have a C6Z06 that I have been converting it to a dedicated race car. I've run into cooling issues as well. If you have a Dewitt's radiator, be careful of running no antifreeze! I had a brand new radiator, develop via electrolysis, a dozen holes sitting in my garage on blocks over the summer. The radiator was 4 months old. Measure the voltage of your fluid with respect to ground. If it's over .250 read up on radiator electrolysis. I had high oil temps at VIR. 290-305 when pushing hard. I added an improved oil cooler with custom mount. Oil temps dropped to 250 max. But water temp was up to 240 after 5 hard laps. My intermediate change is to create a custom aluminum sealed intake ducting for the radiator. I'll test this at Chin this weekend at VIR. I also moved my trans cooler to the rear of the car. Trans gets Hot too not sure if it is the diff or the trans is biggest contributor. Chasing the thermal challenges is a proving to be difficult. If the sealed ducting up front doesn't work, I'm leaning the radiator forward to creat more airflow around the oil cooler to the radiator. There is not a lot of room above the oil cooler to get cool air to the upper half of the radiator with stock setup. We should talk about this... I'm interested to understand your setup. I'll pm you.