zrtman1

This is a conversation a friend and I were having the other night.

If you were building a pretty much dedicated track car (caged/stripped interior) which chassis would be best to start with?

Taking the following out of the equation because it would all be upgraded/not stock:

Engine
Trans
Rear diff
Brakes (rotors, calipers)
Springs (coilovers)
Sways
Suspension bushings

I say C6 base (steel frame) with GS/Z wide body fenders. C6 I would think has more advanced comp mode and abs. I would think the aero would be better for the track when using front splitter. C6Z aluminum frame would be lighter but I would think more easily damaged?

I know some guys on here have moved from C5 to C6 (C7's not in conversation). Just wondering if had any input...

63Corvette

IF..............I were to do that, then I would start with a professionally built RACE car, from a recognized shop like Phoenix Racing or Danny Popp. That would be the most efficient use of my track budget. Many track/racers have moved on to C6 or C7 Grand Sports, so there a number of great deals out there for used race cars. A used, but "winning" car, set up by professionals is the quickest and safest way to go faster and gain experience while doing so.

crease-guard

Agreed, put together your funds and then wait for a deal. There is always someone wanting to sell a car and they will take the loss for it. Unless you just have money to burn and want to see it done from the ground up, buy a car ready to go. You can tweak what you want from there.

zrtman1

Sorry I did not explain myself better. I am not looking for a track car (I agree easier to buy one already done). This is a hypothetical question. A friend and I had this conversation over beers a few weeks ago.

If you had a C5 or C5Z or C6 or C6Z with same engine, trans, diff, coil overs, calipers&rotors, similar aero work - which would be faster?

Brandon619

I would pick a C6 Z06 hands down.

FASTFATBOY

Are you doing your own work?

A car that can run a square tire setup(C5) is always more cost efficient.

Base C5

243 heads, LS6 cam wih PAC 1518 springs and LS6 intake =385 reliable rwhp with headers and other bolt ons. If you scatter it and had to start completely over you can build a new forged one for about $5-6k

Second hand C5 Z06 swaybars and springs, DRM Bilstein shocks, urethane swaybar bushings.

Four 18x10.5 wheels for a square setup.

DRM stainless brake pistons.

C5 will FLY in this form on a RE11 or the like when you can REALLY drive it and it will take a while to really get there.

Then some better bars and race takeoff's, kill dam near everything on track.

2Fass240us

How funny...I just bought a C5 base recently. Already have LG G1 bars, DRM Bilsteins, and C5Z springs. Wheels and tires are next. I'm going to run Wilwoods in the front though.

So in other words, another vote for C5 base. It's a track car, so chassis cost is a big part of the equation. Hitting something is more of a "when" than an "if."

FASTFATBOY

Run your stock calipers with DRM pistons, they will surprise you with a Raybestos ST43 or ST47 pad, stainless lines and good fluid.

The stock caliper pistons will do for a couple of events just to try it. I run them and like them.

2Fass240us

I already have the Wilwoods and some parts to mock-up using them and OTS rotors. I've done this for two other chassis...kind of a hobby within a hobby.

Suns_PSD

If you are willing to build the car up to that level, any of those cars can be made to perform essentially up to the same speed. I will say that you really need a dry-sump for a True-Track car on sticky tires, and it's pretty expensive to retrofit that.

theseal

Having tried a c6z and c5z I would say avoid a c6z like the absolute plague. Do a c5 right with coolers, dry sump, brakes, hubs, etc., and good ducting and heat control and it's ok. But still a bitch to maintain and work on.

I am building a different car, having given up on the newer cars as they are just too difficult to maintain and repair for a track car.

carefulnow

One thing I can say from experience is the kind of safety setup you will eventually want is about double the cost in a C6Z vs a C6. Probably worth keeping in mind if you're starting from scratch.

Quickshift_C5

What was constantly breaking and requiring maintenance on your C5 that convinced you to move on?

Moto One

In the hypothetical world? "C5" Then strip the body panels off, gut the heating/AC/other un-needed comfort bits, cage/reinforce the suspension points, maybe LG spindles, best brakes, then do wide body aftermarket panels (C5/C6 your choice). Oh and have the exhaust dump out the Left side to beat sound at MRLS.

Or leave it stock, sticky tire, wing/splitter bolt in roll bar, seat/harness and just roll the corners like a Mazda and have fun.

Mark

zrtman1

Due to the aluminum frame I assume?

Nowanker

Strictly hypothetical?
Just buy a real racecar to begin with.
Don't bother with the street-based stuff.

zrtman1

I have a C5 coupe and not planning on changing anytime soon. My skill level is not even close to using all of the car. Forged LS3, Lg coilovers, C6 Z51 sways, Wilwood aero front cailpers, C6Z front rotors and C6 Z51 rears, poly bushings, big oil cooler, ZR1 6060 trans, C6Z diff.

I started with a high mile base that was daily driven. Had a bad knock in the LS1 so I bought it cheap and sold my C4. I have done 100% of the work myself except the alignment and tune. So I do not have a ton of money in it. But I have a lot of fun driving it and my skill level is not anywhere close to pushing it even with the crap invos I am using right now.

Fastfatboy - you said you used to run NT05's? What was your target pressure (hot) with them? That is my next set of tires.

The thread is just a question. Or more of a conversation really. Like off season shooting the bull over a beer.

FASTFATBOY

30-31 hot on the tires.

Why such soft swaybars?

zrtman1

Cool man ty as always for the info.

C6 Z51 is 31/26mm - slightly larger C5Z. A lot larger than the base C5. Someday will upgrade to T1 or Lg bars. I do not have enough experience to need them right now.

FASTFATBOY

Front bars are close enough to call them the same, the rear bar is stiffer which would make the car loose(er).

Anyone run these bars in place of the C5 Z bars?