Blizzerk

Shopping for 2006 Z06 for HPDE(About 4/year) (No AutoX). Will a 2006 dry sump hold up on racing slicks in 10/10 driving. My understanding the 2006 is not as good as 2009.

Any other reason to not track a 2006 z06 and buy a 2009+?

Learning to drive with nannies off so I don't think the more advanced TCS is critical.

At the moment, I'm intermediate driver but would like to buy something now and not have to upgrade later.

Bill Dearborn

Depends on what track you are driving. My stock 08Z did fine on tracks like Watkins Glen where there are no long high G left hand turns. I put at least 6K track miles on the car over a 4.5 year period with no oiling system failures.

Bill

Mordeth

As Bill said, if no sweeping, long high G left handers, then you should be good. That said, on my 2007 Z06 I purchased the Lingenfelter expanded dry sump tank which adds about 3 quarts to the oiling system. You have to take yours out, send them the core and then they will send you a modified one. GM doesn't sell the part any longer so Lingenfelter requires the core before they ship you the modified one.

http://www.lingenfelter.com/PROD.htm...ode=L300046006


Also, I installed the AVIAID dry sump tank insert into the new tank since I had it out anyhow. It helps to stabilize and deaerate the oil, as well as slow down oil carryover to the manifold.

http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/...s-z06-ls7.html

There is a guy who tested this exact combination on these forums using as close to a scientific method as is available to the average track guy and he proved that these two items prevent/mitigate starvation and keeps oil pressure within proper operating ranges. He data logged before and after on the track.

AVIAID and Improved Racing also make an oil pan baffle that assists with scavenging inside the pan, but I didn't feel like taking out the oil pan for this and I don't think it will be necessary.

Blizzerk

Thanks for the input! Are there any other disadvantages to the 2006 vs. later models when tracking? I know the trans is different but not necessarily inferior(correct?).

Also, am I correct in saying all the fluid cooling systems are the same?

It'a a lot easier to negotiate on a 2006 than say a 2009/10.

Mordeth

Not alot of differences. They slightly improved the steering system on '08+ models, but nothing to write home about. T56 vs TR6060 transmission is debatable. Some prefer one and some the other, but overall both are very good. Gear ratios are the same. Slight changes to the differential as well.

2006 are technically the lightest in weight.

2011+ changed the oil cooling to the ZR1 style which uses the coolant system. It heats the oil up a little faster.

All in all not alot of significant changes, and if you are going to track the car at 10/10 then no matter which car you pick you will be modifying it anyhow.

Also, Improved Racing just released this: http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...kit-p-768.html I haven't heard any feedback yet and haven't needed it myself, but it's available if needed.

The only major thing you need to be worrying about is the heads and ensuring that they have been dealt with. This affected every LS7 ever built.

Blizzerk

Thank you very much! I'm adding the cost of addressing the heads into the price of the car.

Mordeth

Good idea. C6Z, once sorted (heads, tires, brakes, few suspension bits, some aero and other standard track mods) is a monster on the track. It's where it belongs.

80atez

I have a 08 that I track and have added the higher volume sump. This is a good idea because it will cool the oil a bit more as the volume is higher. Not to mention prevent oiling failure. I think the newer LS7's have piston oiling that is probably a bit better. I didn't realize the 06 had a t56. I have a t6060. But I think a '06 to modify (or not) and track is a great choice. I think the OEM shocks are stiffer on 06 than others, but I'd recommend replacing with coilers and removing the leafs anyway especially with slicks. Obviously mag ride shocks would be more complicated to remove requiring dummy plugs.

The non- side airbag seat version is easier to swap to a racing seat.

As my '08 ages into obscurity, I find I love the lack of BS car stuff that every sports car wannabe has now. Seems like all I have is a button that turns off AH, and a radio.

KEZ06

I am about to track a 2006 c6z also. The one other mod to consider is to go to skf hubs when the oem hubs give out. The vette mechanic that did my prepurchase said oems will last 1-2 seasons max, the skf will last 5 seasons.

80atez

I totally agree. I tracked mine a few times and then hunted down wobble for weeks. The old test of wiggling the wheel doesn't work these days. I went for it and replaced all my hubs with SKF HD and end of story. That was a few years ago.


I'd do this in this order:

heads (I put Ti exh valves in mine) now the data may suggest full redo... at least check for concentricity....I'm no expert on this stuff...
bigger oil tank
DOT 4 fluid / change all fluids (tranny to redline D4, rear diff to GM LS - OEM)

racing seat and harness bar / harness and HANS
Front brake cooling
slicks or track tires
track alignment
aero (spoiler and ventedhood / splitter)
sways and coilovers (coils # for slicks and aero = stiff!)
brake upgrade (SS lines, single piece pads [carbotech xp10 or enduro, maybe hotter for slicks]), two piece rotors, ?change calipers (I changed pistons to SS with stock calipers)
Hubs when needed.

That's mostly my list in a different order than I did as I have learned a few things.. Of course this is just my novice opinion. Much more than that (bushings, wing, cage) and the car becomes a dedicated track machine, which is not my goal (yet).

harrydirty

When you say a few suspension bits, what do you mean?

Mordeth

Delrin or spherical control arm bushings.

DRM Valved Bilstein shocks or LG Coilovers.

Front, adjustable sway bar.

Aggressive alignment.

harrydirty

Is that what you have? I can understand how the alignment and sway bar make a difference, and even the bushings, but how do the shocks make a difference on the typical road course?

carefulnow

More oil capacity is the most important first modification. Here's an option.. just the tank from the pic: https://drysump.com/LS7%20Installati...structions.htm

80atez

This is debatable. Full set of delrin or metal bushings will make the car noisy and harsh from what I've been told. I haven't gone there yet. It will make it stiffer and more responsive.

My LG coilovers made the car much more smooth over rough roads on the street and height adjustable and more predictable on track. I cannot say the car is faster around the track per se just from the CO's, but I really recommend the coilovers and removal of leafs if you don't like the rear end pendulum on any choppy roads or tracks. I went from pfadt adjustable shocks to CO's and would skip the shocks alone mod, waste of time. I have stock shocks and pfadts sitting in a box if anyone wants to buy them cheap...

If you get slicks, you want probably stiffer shocks and springs and thus changing to coilovers only makes sense or you may not be using all of the slicks potential. Be sure you know your set-up first though, or you will under-rate your CO setup. LG is a good reference for this planning.

This is nit-picky, but we're not here to accept the stock car are we?

Mordeth

Well, everything is debatable. I do agree that if he goes right to slicks, 10/10 driving and is trailering the car that coilovers are a better path. I find it unlikely that he will do this though for four HPDE events a year as an intermediate driver.

For most people there is an upgrade path. Yes, we all want to minimize cost/work, but many things can be taken in steps. DRM valved Bilstein shocks are a good, low cost easy step to better planting the car as you get faster. They work very well with R compound DOT competition tires. They are cheap, easy to install and hold their value very, very well. They last about 2 seconds in the for sale section. Whereas you couldn't give me a set of pfadt shocks. If you move to slicks then sell the DRM shocks in 2 seconds and buy your coilovers and delrin/spherical bushings. But many people who only go to a few events per year will find they can stick with the DRM Bilsteins and save a boat load of money. They are also very street friendly. Then you can upgrade in steps.

As for NVH, if he goes right to slicks and coilovers and is driving 10/10 then this is the least of his concerns.

80atez

I basically agree. But I agree with LG. Stiffer shocks means the springs are overpowered. Matched coilovers are better tuned. For a car that is road and track, I found CO's made the ride much better because of the lack of the side to side bouncing that I think are due to leaf cross-talk. Although the pfadts on stiff setting was an improvement.. If you buy stiff DRM's can you add coils later? If so, that would be a reasonable course of action. But I would think the coils will be added quickly by most... I personally would stress that I don't think coilers made my car (I guess I mean me driving) faster per lap. I think tires, brakes, and being strapped to the seat with a harness made more of a difference. I am now considering aero to keep the rear end down on fast corners as a safety and speed mod. I am not pretending to be an expert, just interested in this stuff!

Blizzerk

Thanks, I will not be going to slicks right away. Just making sure the 06-07 models are up to the task and a good beginning platform. Over time as my driving skill level improves, I'll be upgrading the car. Great info through out the thread.

80atez

It's a great platform. Maybe the best option at the price imhuo (u is for unbiased!)..

I would just like to add, that I actually think the full coiler setup is really better if you want better ride on the road, and not just stiff on track, because stiff shocks can get you a nice track car but I just found the coilers feel so much better on not so perfect roads. Living in northern MN, I will tell you I drive some sheity road! That and I'll add again, a good seat and harness are so much better than any stock seat because if your *** is stuck to the car, you feel the tires and their limit so much better. Most say it give you a second a lap.. A great first mod that adds safety too.

Have fun!

the blur

I'm looking at an 06 as well. The prices came down a lot. I would keep it stock, and run it 8/10's on the track. I've seen quite a few under $40k.