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I drive a '08 C6. There is just something great about those Raybestos ST43s! They really have good feel, work well for a long time and are easy on the DBA slotted rotors I've used now for 5+ years. Hoping everyone out there has found them.
Agreed on the great performance of the ST43's.....however, I'm getting tired of dealing with the padlets......have you ever seen ST43 single pads for the Z06?
Last edited by harrydirty; 03-28-2017 at 02:41 AM.
Agreed on the great performance of the ST43's.....however, I'm getting tired of dealing with the padlets......have you ever seen ST43 single pads for the Z06?
I have single-piece pads for my iron C7 Z06 brakes. They swap in and out just like the OEM pads. Have you called Porterfield and asked?
Last edited by spearfish25; 03-28-2017 at 06:01 AM.
That rotor probably has several sessions left in it. Inspect carefully after a good cool down lap. If the crack extends to the edge it is time to trash it. If your fingernail catches in the crack you are getting close. The major thing you need to do is get some cooling air to the rotor. Search the forum for the DRM ducts and use in conjunction with the LG spindle ducts. They are not too hard to install and will greatly enhance rotor life. The next decision you have to make is rotor type. Either stay with cheap NAPA stockers and replace them often or spend the bux on a top quality set of DBA 5000 two piece rotors. I tried various brands, cryo treated, and none provided any benefit over stock cheapos. Forget the drilled / slotted crap that is out there - total waste of money for track use. THE DBA have a noticeably thicker friction surface than stock and will last 5X longer, especially WITH COOLING DUCTS. IMHO Bottom line do the ducts and DBA rotors.
agreee 100%. I actually ran the DBA 4000 for a while and they would last more than 10 track days on a single set (they are a good bit cheaper than the 5000, so if they do the job for you, they might be a great first step). I think they are $130-150/each depending on where you get them. THmotorsports had them cheap.
Carbotech XP10s. This is the second set of fronts I've had this happen to, both with XP10s: first set lasted two weekends, second set lasted one short weekend.
I always run a full cooldown lap without touching the brakes, and rotate the wheels 90* several times after parking (usually 5 minute intervals, roughly speaking).
XP10 is fairly easy on rotors I would look into some cooling ducts.
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I agree that the rotor has several sessions left in it. I use the fingernail rule to judge when to replace. I am uncomfortable with a big rotor failure at the speeds we do so I replace on the early side. That said, I know several that wait until cracked all the way through. Eyeball them when you get in and if cool enough, fingernail them before you go out. If the crack extends to the outer edge, they have got to go.
Whichever way you go on the rotors, get some cooling ducts. They will significantly decrease wear rates. As for the rotors, I have always viewed them as disposable items. The Centric Premiums and the KNS 4ks have worked just fine for me. Once I installed the the Quantum duct kit and a Katech splitter/undertray, I have never had brake cooling issues. I never went to 2 piece rotors as I view it as virtually impossible for them to outlast 3, 4 or 5 sets of the rotors above to make them just equal in cost.
Jeff, how does one easily check the inside rotor surface every session of a track day? Do I need to pull the trigger on an iPhone boroscope? It seems impossible to directly see the inner rotor face without pulling my wheels.
Read the article. Very helpful; wish I had a few weeks ago. Thanks for posting the link.
Originally Posted by TKOGTO
I agree that the rotor has several sessions left in it. I use the fingernail rule to judge when to replace. I am uncomfortable with a big rotor failure at the speeds we do so I replace on the early side. That said, I know several that wait until cracked all the way through. Eyeball them when you get in and if cool enough, fingernail them before you go out. If the crack extends to the outer edge, they have got to go.
Whichever way you go on the rotors, get some cooling ducts. They will significantly decrease wear rates. As for the rotors, I have always viewed them as disposable items. The Centric Premiums and the KNS 4ks have worked just fine for me. Once I installed the the Quantum duct kit and a Katech splitter/undertray, I have never had brake cooling issues. I never went to 2 piece rotors as I view it as virtually impossible for them to outlast 3, 4 or 5 sets of the rotors above to make them just equal in cost.
Already installed the new rotors (KNS 4k) and will hopefully have the ducts this weekend, but I'll keep these old rotors as spares. May not pass the "fingernail test" as the crack is fairly wide, but based on the article above and others' feedback, sounds pretty safe to assume they have a few more sessions on them.
I tend towards a bit of paranoia given I run Road Atlanta most of the time. I'm bouncing off the limiter in 4th into the braking zone, so at that speed, and the relatively close proximity of concrete walls, the last thing I want is a disc failure.....
Now this is a cracked rotor. I was the last driver stint in a 9 hour endurance race at COTA. When I pulled out of the pits at the start of my stint I could feel the crack already there. Babied it for 1.5 hours but I finished the race.
I don't always catch it in the pits, but if it thumps on the out lap I just try to remember to change it before the next race. It can be easy to forget about when it heats up and stops thumping and you get caught up in a battle for position. I wait until it cracks though to change though, sometimes they just hang on and on.
I personally prefer to change them a little earlier. I hate losing any track time changing parts just to potentially get a few more sessions out of a rotor or pads. The OPs first 2 pictures look like there is a gap in the crack, not just a heat check. With my luck, they would crack just before a session and I would miss out. Personally, I would swap it out before the start of the event.
I drive a '08 C6. There is just something great about those Raybestos ST43s! They really have good feel, work well for a long time and are easy on the DBA slotted rotors I've used now for 5+ years. Hoping everyone out there has found them.
I normally don't worry unless the crack goes to the edge.
If you're having cracking issues you really should start recording brake temps. Do the rotors and the caliper. Make sure the DRM ducts are really working.
03-28-2017, 02:41 AM
