Gary2KC5

I'm putting my Wilwood SL-6R calipers on today. They have an outer and an inner bleed screw.

Since the fluid comes in from the inner side I would assume you bleed the outer side 1st then the inner. Is that a correct assumption?

Also when replacing worn out pads, what is the best method for pusing those 6 pistons back into the caliper?

luvmy92

If they are anything like the GN III caliper, just hook up one of those dual bleeder containers that you get from Discount Auto. I think they run about $6. Once you have hooked up the tubes to both bleeder valves you can go ahead and open both bleeder screws. You can then pump on the brake about 6 or 7 times, close the screws, dump the fluid that's in the container and pour some new stuff in the MC. Repeat the steps until you have gotten all the air out. This can be a one man operation by the way...

Edit: For pushing the pistons back in I just wrap a cotton terry cloth towel around the caliper and use a pair of adjustable pliers.

Mike


[Modified by luvmy92, 12:21 PM 9/14/2003]

Gary2KC5

Mike,

I don't have any Discount Auto's around but I will check out the others for the cheap bleeder.

As far as the SL-6R's they are not like the GM III. There are 6 pistons vs. the single in the GM III. I will post a pic as soon as my batts are charged.

I suspect needing to get some kind of pad spreader because all 6 pistons must go back at the same time.

John Shiels

How about a C-clamp? How have the caliper been working? any pad tapering? I may be mixing you up with someone else or didn't you buy them a while ago Gary? How did the J pads treat the rotors? My rotor never wore but one did split big time!




[Modified by John Shiels, 7:17 PM 9/14/2003]

Gary2KC5

John, just put them on today, I didn't get finished and the car is still on jack stands. The 5/16" spacers did not clear my Z06 replicas which are standard C5 size. I haven't tried my 2000 thin spokes yet which have my GSCS's on them.

Also I have to get longer wheel studs. The fronts mounted to the rear in a tight fit but are on.

I can't wait to try this set up out. I've got the Wilwood "J"'s on the front and "E"'s on the back.

The front Wilwood pad's are a lot smaller in surface area than the stock front pads but have a boat load more thickness.

I'll keep you posted on how they perform. My next event is RA in mid Oct.

TW: my digi cam decided to not work today (only 2 months old) so I can't get a pic of the calipers before I put them on but visualize 3 pistons on each side of the caliper...a C clamp...like I use on the stock 2 piston/on 1 side will not work. I'm thinking there is a pad spreader out there that will move the pistons back on each side???




[Modified by Gary2KC5, 12:31 AM 9/15/2003]

z060ntrack

Gary, I have the Wilwoods on my Z06 and they clear the stock OEM wheels by at least 1/4". So your replicas are not so replicae.

I haven't found away to compress the pistons yet either. What I do now is use a small allen wrench to slide down in the cleaning slot on the the pad and push against the the rotor. I do both slots. Then I compress the pistons by hand or with the back of the pad to get the new (thicker) pads in. Make sure you seat the pistons with the brake pedal after you change the pads on one side (with the car off) before you do the other side or you will never get those pistons compressed.

I'm using the "J"s with stock Z06 rear calipers and pads and love em. :chevy

luvmy92

Gary,

The GN III is Wilwoods 6-piston Grand National Caliper that fits the C4.




I compress them one at a time and have had no problems doing it this way. I rotate PFC 01 pads for the track and Wilwood Q pads for the street.

Mike

Gary2KC5

Mike, sorry I got them confused with the GM III calipers.

Gary2KC5

They are Z06 replicas, but in standard C5 sizes. I had just bought new tires when I came across the Xtreme garage sale.

Looks like I'll have to get a thicker spacer or upgrade to 18" fronts.

h rocks

Pad thickness is a lesser benefit than swept area. The GNIII's have a huge pad, much larger than the SL series and the stock pad. Endurance (thick) pads are availble as well. You can run an 1 3/8" thick rotor with the GNIII's.

rgregory

Your bleed procedure sounds fine, I would just also hit the outside a 2nd time after you do the inside.

You stated you put the stock fronts on the rear be aware that this may leave you with a soft pedal like you need to bleed the brakes. I put my fronts on the rear after I did my front upgrade. The stock fronts take more volume of fluid and will cause increased pedal travel. I only left the setup on a couple of weeks and then put the stock rears back on.

Gary2KC5

Thanks for real world experience with the setup. How did they work on the track vs. the street?

rgregory

"How did they work on the track vs. the street?"


I never took it to the track in that configuration, I wouldn't have trusted them at the track with the soft pedal. I have heard that the master cylinder can be upgraded and the pedal will go to normal. It wasn't worth it to me since I also missed the parking brake.

Gary2KC5

I'm compensating with pad compound for the front/rear bias issue.

LG Motorsports suggested this setup (for the track) running J compound on the front Wilwood's and E's on the back.

Lou will be at my next event @ RA so we can address any issues in person.

I've got the DRM bias spring in so I'm not sure what effect that will have...should help get move fluid to the back.