1963 Chevrolet Corvette Coupe 48K Real Miles
#1
1963 Chevrolet Corvette Coupe 48K Real Miles
55K$
And offers seriously considered
Matching # Original Block and other parts
Vin, Trim, Block, Line Crack Below Tank Pic's at below link
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634631280153/
I received this car almost four years ago and decided to protect my investment to give the car a clean-up not restored a restore was not needed.
Car come with a folder of past receipts to 1984 that includes vin and other owners registrations,
I would say this makes the originality of the motor block without question and mileage traceable
Body raised and frame cleaned to metal then three coats of primer and two coats painted, every inch of this frame was inspected and nothing but the original welding found, frame is 100%
Boxed in channel of frame have been cleaned and zinc chromate applied
Link to after cleanup pics
Some are duplicated
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634511985745/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634401934898/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634396859523/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634143577440/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634138120217/
Some before and cleanup in process pics at next link
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7631256384798/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7626389338310/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7626430767690/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634138120217/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634143577440/
Fiber glass body
I would say this is a no hit body but I did find some panel joint re-gluing in the front of the body fenders but only in the front of the panel and located where fender panel meets fender well no re gluing on the fender panel
I would guess at some point the joint worked lose and then re-glued , pics are in links, it is some old gluing so being a early production model it could have been just sloppy production work.
Fender Joints meeting firewall looked to be original so this indicates fender has never been replaced
All fiberglass looks to be the early original and darker in color
Early production model under seats are the deep pockets.
Front lower body skirt below grill has had a couple light repairs small area
Driver side fender next to door jam has had a some type of putty / fiberglass applied mid way up the fender about a 3x3 inch spot link below
All original bonding strip seem to be intact
Rear panel just above the bumper on the inside has had some extra fiberglass place but absolutely no fiberglass panel crack out as in a hit
Does have a small line crack directly below gas tank decal I don’t think this is completely through just a surface line, as pics in links
Appears to have had one re-paint, Driver quality
I have not installed new front control arm skirts but have them
Running board skirt mount had to be replaced only due to rocker repair they hold the chrome skirt below door , I have only installed four because that’s all that’s needed to hold the skirt on, I have the old ones and the rest of the new ones to install
Radio is original and working to a point, wonder bar is slow and sluggish, it has been unplugged
Radio antenna is complete but I have never tried to use it as in run it up
Original glass except windshield
Transmission working perfectly, previous owner installed clutch not that the clutch was bad but was freezing to pressure plate due to lack of use
I do think the clutch adjusting link is correct for the car
Bird Cage Inspected and head liner with trim removed, the closed in channel of bird cage above windshield had some very light rust in channel and was cleaned out with a tubular wire brush by being pulled through it and then zinc chromate applied
The rest of the bird cage in cab is in very good shape
At the very top of the B pillar of bird cage that was replaced it connects to the bird cage part of interior cage At this point some deterioration has accured it could use repair. I find this insignificant as in attributing to any amount of real rigidity in strength for body
I was just going add some metal flange, note a stamping plant at some point is going to manufacture this part
A pillars inspected and 100%, Small holes was used to inject zinc into boxed in areas of lower and upper A pillars and lower boxed in area above dashboard
Rear Leave Spring just cleaned and painted new Poly Mounts originals in good shape.
Engine
Upgrades I have done
60 era intake manifold
MSD Distributor and Power Pack, and Coil original saved
60 era Alternator fading chrome may be original
New front crank seal only because I had the cover off it was not leaking and crank shaft was smooth
Timing Change checked for slop and 100% good
New oil pump only because I had the oil pan off, have replaced part
OIL PRESSURE IS EXCELLENT COLD AND HOT
Motor cleaned and painted
New Timing Chain cover gasket, it has a very small leak after I installed this and not a significant leak to warrant repair, it only leaks after motor is shut off and drips about five time and stops
I have the complete distributor and wiring chrome dress parts in good shape, but the dress part may not work with the newer distributor
New Fuel Pump and I have the old one it was working and looks to be from the 60 era
New Starter I have old one not sure if 60 era
Gas Tank Removed, cleaned and painted installed new straps, it was in very good shape
This is without a doubt the best 327 I have owned, it has no valve tick at any time, no puff of oil burning, power is very good, no odd idle problem
New Edeldbrock Carburetor, I have original and in very good shape and a spare or same period in very good shape= 3 carbs
ALL original parts I have replaced are saved
Air cleaner would not clear hood with intake upgrade the fix is getting the correct deep well cleaner that is available for the higher horsepower motor
I have the original double snorkel cleaner
Original carpet its ok for 50 year old carpet lol but needs new at some point, the backing of carpet has mostly come of and needs to be refastened to fiberglass
I added carpet padding for noise and temp control not glued
Glove box front has a chip on left lower edge
New Radiator hose lower
Original Radiator
3/25/86 The motor was overhauled professionally at 30k miles and I could only speculate why, receipt of parts and repair are at link document posted NOTE: Has only 18K miles since work
New front upper and lower control arm Polyurethane/ URETHANE bushings installed the originals were in good shape but showed some cracking on the outer rim and the pivoting metal sleeve was freezing to shaft so I changed them out.
Two new lower balljoints only one was bad when I received car, top balljoints are correct original type installed with rivets good age not known
Rear Crossmember Bushing Mount also called Sombrero, The original are 100% but with the age of rubber you just never know so I changed since I was painting frame.
New TIMKEN Rear Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit's
New body mount rubber
New headlight harness from firewall to light.
New Half Shaft Universals, original are 100%
New Drive shaft Universals, original are 100%
New Body Mounts, original are 100%
Rear-end Differential Inspected Installed New gaskets and 100% Pics at Link
Rear Lights Replaces by previous owner I have originals and in good shaped shows some pitting
Fender wells cleaned and painted
Two new lower balljoints only one was bad when I received car, top balljoints are correct original type installed with rivets
Original Spare Tire this is very possible because the one it came with from the same period and a collector wanted to buy it.
Original Hubcaps and rims hubcaps show some use
Tires are in ok shape.
One Tire carrier bolt bad, has all-thread
Driver Side Seat Leather Cracking out on seat seams only the rest of the seat is holding up.
New Mufflers the previous owner decided to weld them to pipe.
# Three mount (behind driver door)was deteriorated to the point a repair was needed The B pillar was replaced and the driver side rocker metal that was only needing repair was cut out back to 95% solid metal ( I have the replaced cut out to view metal quality cut back )
The Passenger side rocker and rocker B pillar are in very good shape, shown in pic's are a small area of rear rocker that was not the best I just cut it out cleaned rocker, zinced, por-15
I have added the rocker inserted sleeved on both sides just because I was there and I had plans on the car never needing any more repair for 50 more years its a pressed out channel matching the original channel inside diameter of rockers and mostly used when rocker channels are in very poor condition in this case rockers are in good condition with one just needing partial repair that was completed as seen in pics, I just wanted this area over and done with for EVER
The rest of the driver side rocker was clean (Dremel Grinder) of light rust and painted with zinc chromate then covered with a sealing paint (POR 15)
Headlights Motors removed and inspected and clean, gear box repacked with proper grease, fiber gearing in very good shape, Armature commutators are 100% with no cutting from brushes, Motor are in very good condition.
New brakes, some springs, cylinders, flex hoses
Car need aliment I would guess because I have just done what I would call a garage type alignment my self and needs a professional alignment
After speed of 65 handling could be better
Gas gauge was working before work I would guess float sending unit needs cleaned
Horn not working all parts installed
Windshield wipers work but not connected at this time, when I did use them the timing of the two blades was not correct
Some bolts are not correct age and I have all the old bolts and more to be changed out
Emergency brake handle needs to be installed at this time I have it
Heater Working
Original Tire Tools
Needs Tach Cable
Clock works but stops sometimes
And offers seriously considered
Matching # Original Block and other parts
Vin, Trim, Block, Line Crack Below Tank Pic's at below link
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634631280153/
I received this car almost four years ago and decided to protect my investment to give the car a clean-up not restored a restore was not needed.
Car come with a folder of past receipts to 1984 that includes vin and other owners registrations,
I would say this makes the originality of the motor block without question and mileage traceable
Body raised and frame cleaned to metal then three coats of primer and two coats painted, every inch of this frame was inspected and nothing but the original welding found, frame is 100%
Boxed in channel of frame have been cleaned and zinc chromate applied
Link to after cleanup pics
Some are duplicated
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634511985745/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634401934898/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634396859523/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634143577440/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634138120217/
Some before and cleanup in process pics at next link
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7631256384798/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7626389338310/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7626430767690/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634138120217/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634143577440/
Fiber glass body
I would say this is a no hit body but I did find some panel joint re-gluing in the front of the body fenders but only in the front of the panel and located where fender panel meets fender well no re gluing on the fender panel
I would guess at some point the joint worked lose and then re-glued , pics are in links, it is some old gluing so being a early production model it could have been just sloppy production work.
Fender Joints meeting firewall looked to be original so this indicates fender has never been replaced
All fiberglass looks to be the early original and darker in color
Early production model under seats are the deep pockets.
Front lower body skirt below grill has had a couple light repairs small area
Driver side fender next to door jam has had a some type of putty / fiberglass applied mid way up the fender about a 3x3 inch spot link below
All original bonding strip seem to be intact
Rear panel just above the bumper on the inside has had some extra fiberglass place but absolutely no fiberglass panel crack out as in a hit
Does have a small line crack directly below gas tank decal I don’t think this is completely through just a surface line, as pics in links
Appears to have had one re-paint, Driver quality
I have not installed new front control arm skirts but have them
Running board skirt mount had to be replaced only due to rocker repair they hold the chrome skirt below door , I have only installed four because that’s all that’s needed to hold the skirt on, I have the old ones and the rest of the new ones to install
Radio is original and working to a point, wonder bar is slow and sluggish, it has been unplugged
Radio antenna is complete but I have never tried to use it as in run it up
Original glass except windshield
Transmission working perfectly, previous owner installed clutch not that the clutch was bad but was freezing to pressure plate due to lack of use
I do think the clutch adjusting link is correct for the car
Bird Cage Inspected and head liner with trim removed, the closed in channel of bird cage above windshield had some very light rust in channel and was cleaned out with a tubular wire brush by being pulled through it and then zinc chromate applied
The rest of the bird cage in cab is in very good shape
At the very top of the B pillar of bird cage that was replaced it connects to the bird cage part of interior cage At this point some deterioration has accured it could use repair. I find this insignificant as in attributing to any amount of real rigidity in strength for body
I was just going add some metal flange, note a stamping plant at some point is going to manufacture this part
A pillars inspected and 100%, Small holes was used to inject zinc into boxed in areas of lower and upper A pillars and lower boxed in area above dashboard
Rear Leave Spring just cleaned and painted new Poly Mounts originals in good shape.
Engine
Upgrades I have done
60 era intake manifold
MSD Distributor and Power Pack, and Coil original saved
60 era Alternator fading chrome may be original
New front crank seal only because I had the cover off it was not leaking and crank shaft was smooth
Timing Change checked for slop and 100% good
New oil pump only because I had the oil pan off, have replaced part
OIL PRESSURE IS EXCELLENT COLD AND HOT
Motor cleaned and painted
New Timing Chain cover gasket, it has a very small leak after I installed this and not a significant leak to warrant repair, it only leaks after motor is shut off and drips about five time and stops
I have the complete distributor and wiring chrome dress parts in good shape, but the dress part may not work with the newer distributor
New Fuel Pump and I have the old one it was working and looks to be from the 60 era
New Starter I have old one not sure if 60 era
Gas Tank Removed, cleaned and painted installed new straps, it was in very good shape
This is without a doubt the best 327 I have owned, it has no valve tick at any time, no puff of oil burning, power is very good, no odd idle problem
New Edeldbrock Carburetor, I have original and in very good shape and a spare or same period in very good shape= 3 carbs
ALL original parts I have replaced are saved
Air cleaner would not clear hood with intake upgrade the fix is getting the correct deep well cleaner that is available for the higher horsepower motor
I have the original double snorkel cleaner
Original carpet its ok for 50 year old carpet lol but needs new at some point, the backing of carpet has mostly come of and needs to be refastened to fiberglass
I added carpet padding for noise and temp control not glued
Glove box front has a chip on left lower edge
New Radiator hose lower
Original Radiator
3/25/86 The motor was overhauled professionally at 30k miles and I could only speculate why, receipt of parts and repair are at link document posted NOTE: Has only 18K miles since work
New front upper and lower control arm Polyurethane/ URETHANE bushings installed the originals were in good shape but showed some cracking on the outer rim and the pivoting metal sleeve was freezing to shaft so I changed them out.
Two new lower balljoints only one was bad when I received car, top balljoints are correct original type installed with rivets good age not known
Rear Crossmember Bushing Mount also called Sombrero, The original are 100% but with the age of rubber you just never know so I changed since I was painting frame.
New TIMKEN Rear Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit's
New body mount rubber
New headlight harness from firewall to light.
New Half Shaft Universals, original are 100%
New Drive shaft Universals, original are 100%
New Body Mounts, original are 100%
Rear-end Differential Inspected Installed New gaskets and 100% Pics at Link
Rear Lights Replaces by previous owner I have originals and in good shaped shows some pitting
Fender wells cleaned and painted
Two new lower balljoints only one was bad when I received car, top balljoints are correct original type installed with rivets
Original Spare Tire this is very possible because the one it came with from the same period and a collector wanted to buy it.
Original Hubcaps and rims hubcaps show some use
Tires are in ok shape.
One Tire carrier bolt bad, has all-thread
Driver Side Seat Leather Cracking out on seat seams only the rest of the seat is holding up.
New Mufflers the previous owner decided to weld them to pipe.
# Three mount (behind driver door)was deteriorated to the point a repair was needed The B pillar was replaced and the driver side rocker metal that was only needing repair was cut out back to 95% solid metal ( I have the replaced cut out to view metal quality cut back )
The Passenger side rocker and rocker B pillar are in very good shape, shown in pic's are a small area of rear rocker that was not the best I just cut it out cleaned rocker, zinced, por-15
I have added the rocker inserted sleeved on both sides just because I was there and I had plans on the car never needing any more repair for 50 more years its a pressed out channel matching the original channel inside diameter of rockers and mostly used when rocker channels are in very poor condition in this case rockers are in good condition with one just needing partial repair that was completed as seen in pics, I just wanted this area over and done with for EVER
The rest of the driver side rocker was clean (Dremel Grinder) of light rust and painted with zinc chromate then covered with a sealing paint (POR 15)
Headlights Motors removed and inspected and clean, gear box repacked with proper grease, fiber gearing in very good shape, Armature commutators are 100% with no cutting from brushes, Motor are in very good condition.
New brakes, some springs, cylinders, flex hoses
Car need aliment I would guess because I have just done what I would call a garage type alignment my self and needs a professional alignment
After speed of 65 handling could be better
Gas gauge was working before work I would guess float sending unit needs cleaned
Horn not working all parts installed
Windshield wipers work but not connected at this time, when I did use them the timing of the two blades was not correct
Some bolts are not correct age and I have all the old bolts and more to be changed out
Emergency brake handle needs to be installed at this time I have it
Heater Working
Original Tire Tools
Needs Tach Cable
Clock works but stops sometimes
Last edited by vicohio; 07-23-2013 at 01:42 PM. Reason: Adjust
#3
Vin, Trim, Block, Line Crack Below Tank Pic's at below link
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634631280153/
South Ohio
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634631280153/
South Ohio
#4
Race Director
Vin, Trim, Block, Line Crack Below Tank Pic's at below link
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634631280153/
South Ohio
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio...7634631280153/
South Ohio
Link not working for me, thanks,
#8
Drifting
By the way - good luck with your sale. I applaud you for providing such a thorough description of the car.
Todd
#9
If links fail please post so I can correct, or try http://www.flickr.com/
and at the top rights search in the sub menu flicker members for vicohio then got to set's
and at the top rights search in the sub menu flicker members for vicohio then got to set's
#14
If you search in c2 for mount repair that could help a lot.
Beside the cleanup and paint of frame and new parts added the only real repair that was done is the mount behind driver door and can be easy fix in it's early time of needing repair as this was, some get so bad that the rocker is 50+ rusted, the driver side rocker only needed 15 inch or so cut out and replaced, then comes in the B Pillar behind the door and that part is a easy change in this case, that is the pillar your lock receiving unit latches into on the door jam, it bolts on the B
If you look closely at this link you can see the detail sign from the rocker rust staining the white fiberglass and then ends, what that says is the rust went no further then this discoloration to fiberglass
Good view of how good the original rockers are, as you can see just a light clean to get to steel
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vicohio/7853279980/lightbox/
This is a link of a home made fab part doing the repair what most don't know isif they order a 68 b pillar redo insert it matches the ID diameter and you only have to bend the sloping flange flat and it does all the work, opps got of topic
This pillar replaced here in this 63 was stamped in a plant just like the original
This is not my work on car at below link but a sample of others.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...completed.html
What nice about this car is all have been inspected, corrected, and all small areas that need to be protected for the years to come are, its called zinc chromate, not that it was needed but at some point all of these cars should have some.
zinc chromate
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_chromate
Last edited by vicohio; 07-28-2013 at 09:41 PM.
#16
Administrator
Member Since: Jul 2000
Location: About 1100 miles from where I call home. Blue lives matter.
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Please see new thread on this car