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Accessory Bolt Holes for Camel Hump Heads???

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Old 04-09-2005, 02:37 PM   #1
toddalin
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Default Accessory Bolt Holes for Camel Hump Heads???

Has anyone welded nuts or even drilled and tapped holes to install "accessory bolts" on camel hump heads?

I'm toying with adding a supercharger that requires those mount points but don't want to give up my nice, modified camel hump heads.

Seems that with a template, it would be fairly easy to weld some nuts to the heads. Can it be done without removing the heads? Do the fronts of "accessory bolt" heads project out to the same point as a camel hump head, or would I be able to account for this?

Would like to hear from anyone with experience.
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Old 04-09-2005, 05:09 PM   #2
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I think I would consider some custom made brackets for mounting to exisiting bolts on the block. Maybe billet? This could look really trick and eliminate any problems with the welds or wanting to go back to original.
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Old 04-09-2005, 05:24 PM   #3
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Buy some of summits new aftermarket cast heads. they outperform the original camel hump heads and have accesory holes
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Old 04-09-2005, 05:31 PM   #4
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successfully welding anything to cast iron heads is at best a crap shoot. I would not have any confidence with any welds for mounting. Just repairing a crack is a hit and miss operation. Aftermarket heads is the way to go.
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Old 04-10-2005, 12:40 AM   #5
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Yes, I have tapped a hole into the camel hump heads for mounting purposes. But I also made a spacer (out of aluminum) that conformed to the head contour, and then provided a flat face for whatever I was mounting (acted like a removable boss). Time consuming to make the spacer, but worked like a charm for many years on a daily driven street vehicle.

I would not try welding anything to the cast iron of the head. It is possible with a high nickel content rod, but then head should be preheated, etc., and then always the possibility of warpage.

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Last edited by Plasticman; 04-10-2005 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 04-10-2005, 11:14 AM   #6
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well.......... if your adding a supercharger, i surely would get some aftermarket high flow alum heads (why cut up a good set of originals???)
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Old 04-10-2005, 01:17 PM   #7
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Thanks, Plast and Mike. How deep can one SAFELY drill into the heads to tap a thread?

As for those who responded that I should change heads, I see no need to add an additional $1,000+ to the project. My heads were "cut up" long ago, if that's what you call professional pocket porting, port matching, hardened seats, and 3-angle valve job. Car does about 300 hp at the wheels (293 on the dyno prior to a Lars tune-up and some carb work), so there is really nothing wrong with these heads that warrants the addional $$$ outlay.Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 04-10-2005, 07:39 PM   #8
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I agree that a supercharger will add to the stress! The holes I added were used for mounting an alternator (a lot less stress). As for depth, I did a bit of measuring and did not protrude into a water jacket or oil area. I will estimate (from a failing memory and a long time ago), that the holes were about 1/2" deep or more (deep enough for proper thread engagement on a 3/8"-16 bolt). Studs are an excellant suggestion, but may cause other mounting problems. As long as the mount ties in with at least 2 points (3 is better) on the head, and also off the water pump mounting bolts, I would think that should work with a supercharger.

When working with holes that are of minimum depth, you will need to finish off the threads with a "bottoming" tap, so you get threads pretty close to the bottom of the hole for max thread engagement.

However, a better question is what compression ratio are you planning on running with the supercharger? I added a Paxton supercharger to a SBC (on a buddy's 66 Avanti II) using the above mounting points, but the heads were later models (we needed a lower compression ratio) with the front mounting holes.

In other words, you may think about changing over to later model heads for the same reason (lower the compression ratio for the supercharger and gain the mounting points all at once). Some of the 70's & 80's era iron SBC heads are decent for that application (and some are terrible!). You probably want about a 9:1 compression ratio depending upon boost (the higher the boost, the lower the ratio should be - or use very high octane fuel). You would also gain the induction hardened valve seats that are probably a necessity for blower usage.

My twin turbo'd boat ran 8.5:1 CR with up to 7 pounds boost, and had a knock sensor, which warned me when I was detonating. Still went through an engine - cracked piston from detonation (but 72 MPH in a pretty heavy 23' cruiser with a 350 SBC was impressive).

Good luck on your project.
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Last edited by Plasticman; 04-10-2005 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 04-11-2005, 01:01 PM   #9
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Thanks guys, compression was reduced to 9.5:1 when the heads were done. A bit high for a blower, not not incredably.

I'm considering the Procharger unit that looks like the old fuelie setup and sits in the center above the intake manifold, and I believe that the system ties in to both heads, so it doesn't put the strain on a single head like a side-hung unit. The blower is designed to mount to a ZZ-4.
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:05 PM   #10
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What I did for the mounts needed with a serpentine belt conversion was to bore 1/2" diameter holes where I needed and then made threaded 1/2 diameter spacers that were TIG welded in places with high nickel rod. A little work with a dremel tool to turn the welds into fillets and they now look like they were cast that way.
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Old 04-12-2005, 02:56 PM   #11
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Check the street rod and hot rod magazines.

There are some very nice accessory drive brackets available now. I'm sure you can even get one custom made.

It would look better and be stronger than mangling your heads.
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