can anyone reccomend a knock off hammer?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
can anyone reccomend a knock off hammer?
My hammer is a goner, starting to break apart. Suggestions?
NOS hammer? Will it do the same?
Other type of hammer that won't damage the chrome?
Is the knock off tool/wrench ($200) worth the price?
NOS hammer? Will it do the same?
Other type of hammer that won't damage the chrome?
Is the knock off tool/wrench ($200) worth the price?
#2
Safety Car
I have seen a wrench made for knockoff's that appears to be far superior to the standard lead hammer. It is a cone, lined with urethane and engages the spinner, but then extends out several inches where there is a bar that you can strike with a standard dead-blow hammer. The guy that makes them is Dennis Portka, the same guy who does the correct restoration of horns. I don't have his number, but if you asked for it over at the NCRS forum, somebody will have it. I have never owned a car with knockoffs, but this looks like a far superior way to tighten them.
Regards, John McGraw
Regards, John McGraw
#3
POSSE ZR-1 Driver
Wow, that looks just like mine. I'm going with a 3 or 4# dead blow hammer.
#4
#6
knock-off hammer
Hey, maybe I can be of some help......its not my idea, I think I got it from the NCRS disc .......
Anyway, that hammer looks about like mine did..
Clean the lead off the hammer...even take a hacksaw and saw it off back to the steel.
Get an emtpy soup can (I emptied a full one) and cut the bottom off. then cut it open lengthwise.
Put the Hammer in a vise to hold it
Take the empty can a wrap it around the hammer at one end and hold it in place with a hose clamp.....tight.
Take a propane torch and heat up the lead to molten.....then just feed in the old lead......when you get the hammer end to the level you want, clean the slag off the top and let it cool
You have a like new lead hammer
If you don't have enough lead, just stop at a tire shop and pick some wheel weights up
I repair mine frequently to keep it in like new condition
Anyway, that hammer looks about like mine did..
Clean the lead off the hammer...even take a hacksaw and saw it off back to the steel.
Get an emtpy soup can (I emptied a full one) and cut the bottom off. then cut it open lengthwise.
Put the Hammer in a vise to hold it
Take the empty can a wrap it around the hammer at one end and hold it in place with a hose clamp.....tight.
Take a propane torch and heat up the lead to molten.....then just feed in the old lead......when you get the hammer end to the level you want, clean the slag off the top and let it cool
You have a like new lead hammer
If you don't have enough lead, just stop at a tire shop and pick some wheel weights up
I repair mine frequently to keep it in like new condition
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
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Originally Posted by Hank Kimball
Hey, maybe I can be of some help......its not my idea, I think I got it from the NCRS disc .......
Anyway, that hammer looks about like mine did..
Clean the lead off the hammer...even take a hacksaw and saw it off back to the steel.
Get an emtpy soup can (I emptied a full one) and cut the bottom off. then cut it open lengthwise.
Put the Hammer in a vise to hold it
Take the empty can a wrap it around the hammer at one end and hold it in place with a hose clamp.....tight.
Take a propane torch and heat up the lead to molten.....then just feed in the old lead......when you get the hammer end to the level you want, clean the slag off the top and let it cool
You have a like new lead hammer
If you don't have enough lead, just stop at a tire shop and pick some wheel weights up
I repair mine frequently to keep it in like new condition
Anyway, that hammer looks about like mine did..
Clean the lead off the hammer...even take a hacksaw and saw it off back to the steel.
Get an emtpy soup can (I emptied a full one) and cut the bottom off. then cut it open lengthwise.
Put the Hammer in a vise to hold it
Take the empty can a wrap it around the hammer at one end and hold it in place with a hose clamp.....tight.
Take a propane torch and heat up the lead to molten.....then just feed in the old lead......when you get the hammer end to the level you want, clean the slag off the top and let it cool
You have a like new lead hammer
If you don't have enough lead, just stop at a tire shop and pick some wheel weights up
I repair mine frequently to keep it in like new condition
I use a 2" Chevrolet exhaust donut for the same purpose. It is a snug fit over the steel shell of the hammer.
#8
Melting Slicks
My original hammer is like yours, acutally worse. I tried the wrench with NO LUCK. I went to Harbor Freight Tools and got a 5lb lead hammer and the knock offs came off with ease. The hammer was less than $20. It has an ugly plastic orange handle and it is not original but it works. Get the original for looks and use the cheap one to do the job. Good luck.
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
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Try a 4# lead hammer made by Imperial Hammer in Rockford, Illinois, available at the link below for about $26.00; I've used them for years on my Cobras and on the Halibrands on my Grand Sport. Has a steel shank, and when you finally mangle it beyond recognition, you send it back to Imperial and they'll re-cast it for you.
http://shop.rsci.com/industrial_supp...=0000111.00180
http://shop.rsci.com/industrial_supp...=0000111.00180
#12
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by vark_wso
I have used this hammer as well. Works great and doesn't scratch the KO's that much.
#13
Racer
I got mine years ago from W. W. Granger. It's a six # hammer that also came with a mold. When the hammer gets bad, I just melt the lead from around the handle, chuck the handle in the mold, melt the lead in the attached ladle and pour it into the mold. All done.
I also refurbished my original lead hammer from the article that was in the NCRS Restorer. Worked like a champ.
I also refurbished my original lead hammer from the article that was in the NCRS Restorer. Worked like a champ.