Do horn rebuild kits work?
01-06-2006, 12:44 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Do horn rebuild kits work?
Both horns on my 67 sound like bleats from undernourished calves 
, so time for a re-pop. I see kits to rebuild both horns for about $40 from the usual vendors. Do such rebuilt horns sound OK (i.e., original)? Is it easy to reattach the horn halves with the supplied rivets? Can you tell by looking that the horns have been rebuilt?
, so time for a re-pop. I see kits to rebuild both horns for about $40 from the usual vendors. Do such rebuilt horns sound OK (i.e., original)? Is it easy to reattach the horn halves with the supplied rivets? Can you tell by looking that the horns have been rebuilt?
01-06-2006, 01:19 PM
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by tentuna
Rivits are difficult, and the metal cone must be very flat, sent mine to the Horn Works, very nice work and quick.
Charlief
66 Coupe
Charlief
66 Coupe
Anyone have experience rebuilding their own horns? How difficult was it?
01-06-2006, 01:33 PM
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,856 Likes
on
1,099 Posts
The rebuild kits are junk, as are the results. Either send them to the Horn Works or to Ron Goralski in Maryland, (410) 987-1948, byegonevette@comcast.net; Ron has done several for me, and they're a work of art. The last ones I had done were $85.00 each (half of what Dennis Portka gets). 
01-06-2006, 01:35 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Aug 2000
Location: Hilton Head SC
Posts: 883
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Try the adjustment screws first; you've got nothing to lose. I've heard that horn rebuilding can be a little bit of a black art. Since you're not interested in judging, why not buy a pair of current replacements. LICS lists them for $25 each. You may not need both. One good horn by itself doesn't sound good.
01-06-2006, 02:09 PM
#6
Drifting
Originally Posted by JohnZ
The rebuild kits are junk, as are the results. Either send them to the Horn Works or to Ron Goralski in Maryland, (410) 987-1948, byegonevette@comcast.net; Ron has done several for me, and they're a work of art. The last ones I had done were $85.00 each (half of what Dennis Portka gets).
The kits are junk. I tried the rebuild kit and had limited success (one worked but sounded like a death cry.....I sometimes hear it in my sleep 
, and the other did not work at all) Best bet, spend the money to get a quality rebuild on the ones you have...they will probably last another 30 years
01-06-2006, 03:38 PM
#7
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks, guys, for steering me away from the rebuild kits. I just sent an email to Ron Goralski to learn his current prices and will post them here. I'm inclined to get my stock horns rebuilt, since repro/replacement parts are so often mere junk.
01-06-2006, 04:05 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2001
Location: Cascade Maryland
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
6 Posts
Originally Posted by LouieM
Thanks, guys, for steering me away from the rebuild kits. I just sent an email to Ron Goralski to learn his current prices and will post them here. I'm inclined to get my stock horns rebuilt, since repro/replacement parts are so often mere junk.
01-06-2006, 04:09 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2001
Location: Cascade Maryland
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
6 Posts
Originally Posted by JSB69
Try the adjustment screws first; you've got nothing to lose. I've heard that horn rebuilding can be a little bit of a black art. Since you're not interested in judging, why not buy a pair of current replacements. LICS lists them for $25 each. You may not need both. One good horn by itself doesn't sound good.
01-06-2006, 04:42 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2001
Location: Cascade Maryland
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
6 Posts
I just had the Hornworks rebuild my '67 horns for $169. Limited time only. They had them back to me in 10 days and they look and sound beautiful. www.classiccarhorns.com
01-06-2006, 04:47 PM
#11
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,856 Likes
on
1,099 Posts
Originally Posted by FXT
Ron Goralski recently sent me an email saying he is out of the business for now.
01-06-2006, 05:17 PM
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 48,984
Received 6,928 Likes
on
4,774 Posts
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by JohnZ
The rebuild kits are junk, as are the results. Either send them to the Horn Works or to Ron Goralski in Maryland, (410) 987-1948, byegonevette@comcast.net; Ron has done several for me, and they're a work of art. The last ones I had done were $85.00 each (half of what Dennis Portka gets).
01-06-2006, 05:18 PM
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
I got this email from Ron Goralski less than an hour ago:
I charge $75 per horn for rebuild/restoration plus $10 shipping. My current time to get them done is about a month. Thank you for inquiring.
Ron
I charge $75 per horn for rebuild/restoration plus $10 shipping. My current time to get them done is about a month. Thank you for inquiring.
Ron
01-06-2006, 06:41 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
There is a section in the shop manual that says:
Poor tone is one of three possible problems - Low voltage at the horn, horn in need of adjustment, defects within the horn.
You need at least 11 volts at the horn. There is a screw on top of the horn to regulate the current draw. It is very sensitive. Just turn it a fraction.
Both horns should show a current draw of 7.0 -11.0 amps at 12 volts.
The amp meter will indicate an excessive flow of current if the horn internal windings are shorted or grounded, in which case the horn must be replaced.
Poor tone is one of three possible problems - Low voltage at the horn, horn in need of adjustment, defects within the horn.
You need at least 11 volts at the horn. There is a screw on top of the horn to regulate the current draw. It is very sensitive. Just turn it a fraction.
Both horns should show a current draw of 7.0 -11.0 amps at 12 volts.
The amp meter will indicate an excessive flow of current if the horn internal windings are shorted or grounded, in which case the horn must be replaced.
01-06-2006, 08:48 PM
#15
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Grey Ghost
There is a section in the shop manual that says:
Poor tone is one of three possible problems - Low voltage at the horn, horn in need of adjustment, defects within the horn.
You need at least 11 volts at the horn. There is a screw on top of the horn to regulate the current draw. It is very sensitive. Just turn it a fraction.
Both horns should show a current draw of 7.0 -11.0 amps at 12 volts.
The amp meter will indicate an excessive flow of current if the horn internal windings are shorted or grounded, in which case the horn must be replaced.
Poor tone is one of three possible problems - Low voltage at the horn, horn in need of adjustment, defects within the horn.
You need at least 11 volts at the horn. There is a screw on top of the horn to regulate the current draw. It is very sensitive. Just turn it a fraction.
Both horns should show a current draw of 7.0 -11.0 amps at 12 volts.
The amp meter will indicate an excessive flow of current if the horn internal windings are shorted or grounded, in which case the horn must be replaced.
GG - thanks for all that info, I never thought to look in the shop manual for this. I'll try these tests this weekend.
Louie
01-06-2006, 09:06 PM
#16
Race Director
Its funny that this topic came up today. I just received my horns back from Ron Goralski this afternoon. Price was $160.00 (shipping included).
They look great and will be installing them this weekend. Turnaround was 4 weeks to the day which included the Christmas holiday. I followed John Z's recommendation.
They look great and will be installing them this weekend. Turnaround was 4 weeks to the day which included the Christmas holiday. I followed John Z's recommendation.
01-06-2006, 10:41 PM
#17
Pro
Member Since: Mar 2005
Location: ny
Posts: 554
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I rebuilt mine from kits through LIC and instead of rivets used allen head bolts. (Although the kits came with rivets.) To get the rivet look you could fill the heads in with bondo and spray them black. They sound perfect. As long as the discs aren't perforated you can get the minor rebuild kit. Very inexpensive.
01-07-2006, 12:53 AM
#18
Race Director
Originally Posted by LouieM
for my non-judged car.
Or other salavge yard. just grab a couple horns off some late model full size GM vehicle.
Doug
01-08-2006, 08:54 AM
#19
Drifting
Where is the adjustment screw I looked at mine and didn't see one. Is it in the picture that FTX posted. Shemp
Originally Posted by Grey Ghost
There is a section in the shop manual that says:
Poor tone is one of three possible problems - Low voltage at the horn, horn in need of adjustment, defects within the horn.
You need at least 11 volts at the horn. There is a screw on top of the horn to regulate the current draw. It is very sensitive. Just turn it a fraction.
Both horns should show a current draw of 7.0 -11.0 amps at 12 volts.
The amp meter will indicate an excessive flow of current if the horn internal windings are shorted or grounded, in which case the horn must be replaced.
Poor tone is one of three possible problems - Low voltage at the horn, horn in need of adjustment, defects within the horn.
You need at least 11 volts at the horn. There is a screw on top of the horn to regulate the current draw. It is very sensitive. Just turn it a fraction.
Both horns should show a current draw of 7.0 -11.0 amps at 12 volts.
The amp meter will indicate an excessive flow of current if the horn internal windings are shorted or grounded, in which case the horn must be replaced.
01-08-2006, 06:11 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
Oh boy...ya'll don't kill me. I'm looking at a 1963 shop manual. Could the 1963 horns be another 1 year wonder ? 
Originally Posted by shemp
Where is the adjustment screw I looked at mine and didn't see one. Is it in the picture that FTX posted. Shemp