62Jeff

In February of this year I brought home a 1965 Silver coupe which had belonged to a friend of mine for the previous 18 years. The car was a fully functional car until parked 4 or 5 years ago to do a brake job that never got completed.

You can follow this thread all the way back to when I first sought input on what my friend's car might be worth
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1301562

The car is back on the road again, so I thought I'd post here the list of things that were required to get this car back on the road after being parked for several years. I figured that many folks buy cars that have been sitting a while and think that getting them back on the road is just a simple matter of a new battery and good gas. That isn't always the case. I'll also end this thread with an updated picture or two.

Everyone here has said such kind things about the car when I first posted "got it home" pictures, and encouraged me as I worked through minor issues - thanks to all!

All work was performed between Feb 5, 2006 and March 18, 2006

Here's what it looked like as I found it:


As for the work, well starting with Feb 5 and working forward in time in the exact order that tasks were performed here is the list...

• 2 pm – Car leaves friend's house on a flat bed for new home
• Washed car, pushed to back garage, then took a break while my parents came to see the new "grandkid"
• Changed oil/filter
• Removed distributor (1111076, 4 H 25, a 250/300 horse distributor from August 25, 1964), spun up oil pump and reinstalled distributor
• Removed all spark plugs and squirted 3-in-1 oil in cylinders.
• Installed (loosely) spark plugs
• Installed left exhaust manifold, connecting the side pipe and alternator bracket
• Tried to turn motor over by putting rear of car on jack stands, putting the car in gear, and turning the rear wheels with the knock off wrench. That didn't work so I put the car on the ground and rocked it forward and backwards - the engine turned a little
• Polished the rear bumpers, and knock-off spinners/cones - all of which seemed to have junk on them from sitting in a humid garage for a long time
• Cataloged 1 box of new parts, primarily exhaust manifold hardware, PVC, and throttle parts. A second box of parts contains new brake pads, a bag of new A/C o-rings and valves and misc. interior bits
• Tried to charge the old battery but as expected it is dead dead dead
• Drained 7 gallons of very bad, crusty gas
• Installed new 1000 CCA battery and battery disconnect switch
• Cleaned, polished, and installed distributor ignition shielding
• Drained the rest of the bad gas
• Tested electrical system.
  • Works: Headlights, tail/brake lights, signal lights, horn, antenna, FM side of the radio, courtesy lights, amp gauge, fuel gauge (responds to key, but tells lies), high-speed fan, windshield wipers, starter, and the clock works sporadically
  • Does not work: AM side of the radio, low/medium fan speed, and the headlight motors don't open headlight buckets yet
• Bumped engine over a few times (not a full revolution yet) using starter
• Checked out what is involved in pulling the gas tank
• Investigated why the driver's door latch sometimes catches and keeps the door from opening - the problem is the latch in the door has some sort of issue
• Bumped engine over a few times (not a full revolution yet) using starter
• Manually opened and closed headlights. Now the right headlight opens with the switch but the left one does not and neither one closes with the switch.
• Removed gas tank, put a gas can in it's place for the purpose of starting the car
• Tightened spark plugs
• Connected plug wires
• Removed distributor ignition shielding
• Flushed fuel line
• Tried to start car, but carb is flooding
• Removed/cleaned secondary carb bowl/metering block to fix stuck needle valve
• Replaced carb accelerator pump
• Tried to start car, no spark
• Cleaned points
• Started car for the first time at 6:15 pm, 2/11/2006. Sounds great and no leaks so far
• Installed correct throttle rod and swivel
• Installed correct throttle return spring
• Installed correct road draft tube/hose
• Installed correct aircleaner wing nut
• Installed fender washers on lower, rear door window channel bolts to keep the bolts from pulling through the door fiberglass
• Started car, ran about 5 minutes, shut it off when fuel pump leaked
• When car was running, confirmed the alternator is working by measuring 14.5 volts at the battery
• Added 1 gallon of water
• Changed oil/filter
• Installed distributor ignition shielding
• Installed front/rear brake calipers with new pads, new hoses, and in the rear also installed new hard-lines from calipers to hoses
• Boxed Original master cylinder and vacuum booster for shipping to WhitePost
• Gathered parts into 2 bags – parts I’ve removed, and new parts that I won’t be using (such as left over exhaust manifold bolts)
• Shipped master cylinder and vacuum booster to WhitePost for restoration
• Installed new gas tank, new fuel sending unit, filler neck and gas cap. Had to remove new tank part way through the initial install when new filler neck mounting holes failed to line up with the nuts in the new tank. Enlarged the 9 mounting holes in the filler neck and reinstalled everything successfully. However tank doesn’t sit far enough back in the car as the filler neck boot is about ½” too far forward in the gas lid door to mate properly with the body.
• Removed A/C compressor from mounting bracket in an attempt to gain access to bad fuel pump
• With help from previous owner, flushed front and rear brake lines with over 1 quart of Silicon fluid
• Installed new line from front of master cylinder to left front distribution block
• Connected new front hoses to the hard-lines, and new rear hoses to the distribution blocks. Brakes are now fully sealed except for the 2 master cylinder lines, but should be pressure-flushed when the master cylinder is installed, before pushing fluid into the calipers
• Removed new gas tank, bent rear flanges over a bit more, re-installed and now the gas tank appears to be properly located in the chassis as the filler neck boot is properly aligned in the gas lid door opening.
• Installed spare tire carrier
• Noted rear end stamping: AM2 18 65, which is a 3:36 Posi rear end from Feb, 18, 1965 which seems correct for this car considering the car’s build date, but books say a 3:36 rear could not be ordered with a 350 Horse engine
• Replaced bad fuel pump with a correct style A/C Delco pump
• Replaced fuel hose from fuel line to fuel pump
• Put 4 gallons of gas in gas tank, started car and it ran for a bit then died, refusing to restart.
• Dropped off a correct 55 amp alternator (e-bay find) to be rebuilt
• During the course of the day, tried several times to figure out why the car will start and run but not run or start after the idle is bumped down
• Polished paint
• Again investigated why the car would not run. Checked the primary fuel valve, it was not stuck. Started the car, let it run until it died. Checked primary fuel valve and fuel came rushing out of the fitting. Checked fuel level in fuel bowl through sight plug and there was plenty. All were good suggestions from Corvette Forum but no joy.
• Rebuilt carburetor, the accelerator pump needle valve was stuck closed as per a Corvette Forum suggestion, and that was the reason the car would not run right
• Tried to install rebuilt alternator but the rear is 90 degrees off from where it needs to be
• Installed new Spring Ring battery cables
• Cleaned grease/oil off of bell housing and transmission
• Started car and let it run about 15 minutes. Oil pressure does come below 60 PSI when warm but temp gauge still does not appear to work.
• Washed car
• Waxed car
• Using spare temp sender from the Vista Cruiser, laying on top of warm intake on the 65, proved the 65 temp sender is bad.
• Let the car run a while
• Installed spare temp sender from station wagon
• Installed new fuel hose from filter to carb
• Installed new exterior mirror
• Started car and let it run a while. Temp gauge goes up to about 160 degrees now
• Disassembled 55 amp Alternator and re-oriented rear case 90 degrees, and installed
• Installed new belts, after several trips to Standard Auto. The “correct” repro belts from the corvette vendors didn’t fit
• Bought a rebuilt AC Delco starter, returned it and got the right one
• Install rebuilt AC Delco starter
• Install fuel overflow hose spring at rear bumper
• Removed, rebuilt, installed headlight motors as per Corvette Forum instructions
• Installed 1 “4-hole” spark plug wire grommet in lower driver’s side shielding bracket
• Installed rebuilt, original brake vacuum booster
• Replaced vacuum hose from intake to vacuum booster
• Bench bled rebuilt original master cylinder
• Installed master cylinder
• Disconnected hard-lines from brake hoses and flushed front and rear brake lines using master cylinder to force fluid through
• Bled brake system. Car is now ready for a short test drive!
• Went on a few short test drives, stopping every mile or so to check for leaks
• Went on a few 5 mile test drives. Car seems to drive and stop OK, the 20+ year old tires hurt the ride quality. Engine is a bit of a dog
• Installed new spark plug wires
• Installed new spark plugs
• Installed new rotor
• Installed new distributor cap
• Adjusted timing and dwell
• Added 1 pint of gear lube to rear
• Added 1 pint of gear lube to transmission
• Cleaned knock-off spinners, hubs and mating surfaces and applied anti-seize as per Corvette Forum
• Checked brake system for leaks, fixing a few minor ones here and there

That's about it for the first 6 weeks. Since then I drove it to work a few times until my old radiator gave out. Now awaiting my new DeWitts (they assure me my order was taken in time to get filled), and a new set of redline tires. I also shimmed the end-play out of the distributor and worked with the timing and dwell again.

A current picture


And the engine compartment thus far


Jeff

Vette66AirCoupe

Wow! You must be exhausted! I wish I had your energy and motivation!

Corbrastang

Car looks great and i cant believe that anybody could just let a highly optioned beuty like that just sit in their garage for five years. That would drive me crazy!!!

That is some load of work to accomplish. I am going to guess that you were framiliar with cars before this purchase.

62Jeff

Thanks for the kind words. I've been around old cars all my life. I completed a frame-off on my 62 Vette in 1983, a frame-on on my 72 Buick in 97, and have been working a frame-off on my 56 Olds since 1991. My photo gallery has pics of my existing stable, minus the 65 (I really need to get around to uploading it there)

I've got a good working knowledge about cars in general but what I'm missing is some detailed knowledge in a few areas - such as how ohms/amps/volts play together, tuning a Holley, and other things that I'm picking up here thanks to all the helpful folks.

stingrayl76

Your Vette looks great Jeff. You sure have been busy getting it back on the road. Congratulations Looks great

Dave

62Jeff

Actually, I did crater after getting it driving again, I quit working on it from March 19 through this past weekend when I finally got back out there for a distributor shimming event.

I was really anxious to get it running and driving again before my 56 olds came out of the paint shop. My workshop is climate controlled (BEST $$ ever spent) so I didn't have to deal with dreading a cold or hot garage.

62Jeff

Thanks Dave, I appreciate it.

Stingray_RSSS

Great job and nice details and pictures. It reminds me of my 66 coupe, is yours silver pearl ?

Dennis

Dennis Beck

Nice job! You are really paying attention to details. That should make it a fun car to drive! Take a break now and have a

tentuna

Have you troubleshot the fan switch, I have the same problem, high fan runs, no medium or low fan

Procrastination Racing

Have you checked the fan resistor? It is a small coil.

62Jeff

Thanks, yep it is silver pearl although mine is basecoat/clearcoat. I was keeping a work journal while I got the car running again, figured the old owner might like to know what it took to get it running so he wouldn't feel so bad about selling it.

Thank you, I sure hope to drive it a lot when the tires and radiator get here.

Not yet, I'm leaning towards the resistor, but the previous owner said it all worked fine when he last drove it (years ago)

Nope, where would that sucker be on a car with A/C?

crw41

Nice work Jeff, keep at it.

My car was similar, 1.5 years later - almost done, paint now.

JohnZ

The blower resistor (controls all speeds except High) is right on top of the underhood A/C case, just inboard of the blower relay.

62Jeff

Perfect, I know exactly where that is.

kenEDMUNDS

Nice car. A 365 hp with a/c is an outstanding driver. When you are ready to tackle the door issue let us know. I have some experience with them
Ken

pchalpin

I would kill to have the time to accomplish what you accomplished. Nice job. Enjoy!!

62Jeff

Thanks, will do. This is an alleged 350 hp car but the engine has been a bit doggy. I haven't driven it yet after making some carb and distributor adjustments but am hopeful that things will look up.

The driver's door has this problem where the "wheel" in the door latch on the door itself, which spins as you close the door over the latch in the door jamb, gets stuck if the "wheel" moves a little forward in its housing in the door latch. Hard to describe I know.

Thanks for the kind words.

gilbybarr

Man....good work. I enjoyed reading your summary. Enjoy the car!

mspry

Nice work!