AZDoug

The diagram at

http://www.srtarms.com/Voltreg.jpg is for a the external regulator.

if your alternator is internally regulated, terminal 2 goes to the hot junction block (or battery), and terminal one goes to the 10 ohm resistor/idiot light.



Doug

JohnFromVentura

Okay, I'll bite. I Don't understand this as it applies to C1's. I still have a generator but would like to understand this so that I can use it when I'm ready. Some of the lines have marks on them... are these deleted or rerouted? Does the hot side go to the battery through the amp gauge? I'm not sure about the 10 ohm and idiot light..this must be passenger car?
Regards, John

AZDoug

Ignore the penciled in marks.

It applies to any car. You just ahve to apply it to your application. yes, the hot wire has to go back thru the ammeter if you want the ammeter to register a charging function. You can really get rid of the wire that goes to the idiot light, or put a wire in with a 10 ohm resistor (and blocking diode for EFI cars), if you want and connect it to the accessory (turnsignal feed on the back of your ignition switch).

Doug

stafftech

Just installed a new lectric harness, everything is working except the ammeter.

Car has been converted from gen to alternator by PO.

I have a Borg Warner external voltage regulator/alternator system on a 350 Chevy in my 1960 Vette.� I have 12 volts to the red wire on terminal 3, I have eliminated the brown wire to the dash light (not needed).� I am not getting 12V out of the terminals 1&2.� these terminals are blue/white to the alternator, correct?

any help is appreciated.�����


Thanks,