bweaver999

My 67 small block started missing Sunday under load. Probably no more than 500 miles on the engine. Pulled off the cap and rotor and noticed the weights are not working smoothly. Suspect that is my issue. Read a few articles, one pointed to a full re-build article which I saved. The article recommends lubricating the weights when installing but does not say what to use. Is there a special lubricant for this?

Thanks!!

ffas23

The only lube I am awhere of because I use to sell a lot of it for inside point ignition distributors is cam lube. This lubricant was used to keep the points lubed where it would rub against the cam on the distributor shaft. I remember selling Standard Iginition products brand by the tube. Still have tube in my tool box. I don't think you would be using this type of lube though for the weights but I could be wrong. I would think maybe a spray such as WD40 or CRC 556 would be what you want. Both of them eventually will dry and leave a slight film. Maybe someone else will weigh in on this.

AZDoug

Wd40 is NOT the thing to use. It is essentially diesel fuel, and leaves a real gummy varnish as the lighter fractions evaporate.

There are many choices, but I would suggest Superlube (do a google), which is teflon powder in high temp silicone/silane grease, as I recall. I have a jar around that is over 20 years old, and it is as good as the day i got it. the red point cam lube probably works too, though it is most likely an older formulation.

You don't want too much, as that just attracts crud.

Clean the distributor spotless, get rid of the varnish, and just a dab of superlube on the hinge pins of the weights is all you need.

Doug

magicv8

I have tried a lot of stuff over the years to lube the weights. Everything I tried ended up as sticky red spark residue. I wax them now.

67L36Driver

Why is it that everyone plunks the old worn out distributor back in a fresh built engine? Its one of the simplest overhauls almost anyone can accomplish in an hour. Just cleaning it up inside works wonders.

Now climbing down from my soapbox.

Plasticman

I have found that a very small amount of heavy moly lube works the best. It has the plating action of the moly, so it continues to "lube" even if/when the grease dries up. A heavier grease will not sling lube elsewhere within the cap (like a thin lube would).

You really don't need anything more than a film of grease at the pivot points.

The cam lube is not designed for the advance mech. (it will work, but not ideal).

Adding a smear of grease to the pivots should be another "to do" whenever the dist. points are set or replaced. This is another one of those areas where guys (and gals) replace the points with an electronic version, and then think the dist. is trouble free and ignore it until trouble comes.

Plasticman

JohnFromVentura

I think "very small amount" is the key here. Thinking more is better, I over lubed my counter weights. The end result was that it centrifuged the grease everywhere and a lot of it ended up covering the sensor head of my Pertronics ignition. I thought it was dead untill I took it apart and saw the gobs of grease over the sensitive area.

bweaver999

Tell me about it!! The car was a "body off" restore last year. So far I had to replace the calipers and wiring harness. Lot's of bubba work on the wires. The calipers were stainless sleeved according to ecklers excahnge but leaked anyway. Think I will need to do a full rebuild on the distributor, trying to make it through the summer for now.

Youda thunk more would have been replaced as part of a body off!! Know a few more questions to ask if I ever do this again. Oh well, it could not have been closer to what I wanted so I plunked the money down. At least I don't have to contend with 40 years of rust on bolts when I work on it.

StrayDog

A little dab of never sieze ..Works for me .......