67wave_saver

...Just thought I had to share this...Got in the vette Saturday at Carlisle around 5:00 pm to go home...turned the key and nothing happened...Checked the obvious...battery was OK...Nothing electrical seemed to work but the horn :confused: ...started shaking all the wires...kicked the tires and got more :confused: Security stopped and asked if I needed help... :crazy: ...Yep..I give up...Within 5 minutes an NCRS judge stopped with his black bag and got his nose under the hood...1 minute later he said crank it....VEROOOM!!! :cheers: ...He said where the wiring harness connected to the fuse box the wire connection was pulled away...Seemed simple, but obviously not to me when I was looking...and he never said a thing about all the things in the engine that were not correct :lol: I will NEVER say another bad thing about NCRS judges again..His name was JOE...Thanks again JOE.

Safe the wave :seeya

wombvette

Just goes to show, we aint all bad. That is unless you want to have it judged. :D

Grey Ghost

That is a somewhat common problem on midyears. That harness just won't stay locked onto the box. Make yourself familar with it, in case it happens again. I had a similar experience with NCRS judges. I carried my headlight motor to a national meet and just asked for some words of wisdom on fixing it. Instead, they dragged another members toolbox from his car that was parked a mile away and proceeded to rebuild it in front of me ! When I asked what I owed them. The reply was, "pass the knowledge on". A great bunch of folks, in my opinion.

Mag Red Man

See, we're not all bad. In fact, everyone I've met in the NCRS is very nice.

MasterDave

I actually 'hard-wired' the big red wire at my connection block for the same reason. Simply jumped this particular connection to the inside and I have had no probs for 2 years now. It's a fairly common problem. :cheers:

63Corvette

When my 67 427 was about 2 years old, this problem began. While driving the engine would quit without warning. This happened many times, and the dealer could never find anything wrong, because by the time we got it to the dealers, the intermitant problem fixed itself. Several times, we actually spun the car on the highway when the lights went out and the engine quit, leaving the driver blind and bewildered, causing the car to run off one side of the road, and the driver to then wrench at the wheel. By the time the car stopped, the twisting and shaking had restored the circuit, and the lights came back on, the engine started with a twist of the key, as the occupants sat shaking. Finally, a Houston dealership electrician said that the problem was in the junction of the wire loom at the fusebox on the motor side of the firewall. He resoldered each wire because he said the only fix was to replace the wireloom, which Chevrolet said they would not pay for (5 year/50,000 mile waranty). At any rate it worked! the very back yard (bubba) repair fixed the problem permanently. Its a wonder that People weren't killed by this malfunction (maybe they were?) Today there would be a class action lawsuit.

wombvette

This is a very common problem with most GM cars. I call it Air Car Itis, because it usually surfaced on AC cars long before non AC cars would develop the problem. The problem is that all the power delivered to the car is routed through this little spade conection. There are times when 40+ amps are screaming through a connector that is rated 10 amps at best. No doubt it gets hot, the metal looses temper, the plastic melts and you have a failure. Go figure corporate engineering for savings and convenience when a simple breakout of this wire with a high rated, separate connector would solve the problem. But that would cost another nickel, and you can bet they are still doing this nonsense today. I simply remove the terminal and run a length of wire through the open space in the connector. Leave about a foot of extra and replug the connector. Fold the excess back and tape to the harness. You never know it is done and it will never fail again.

67wave_saver

...WOOOOOOOOO...I didn't know this problem could cause your car to stop while you were driving it :eek: :eek: :eek: ...Which wire are we talking about in the connector or is it more than one...The connector on the right or left...wombvette...I'm a little on understanding what you did...It sounds like you are running a wire from the terminal to the connector...when you are say terminal is this the fuse box???...When you say connector do you mean the plastic connector or the connector at the end of the wire

Save :seeya that :seeya wave :seeya

wombvette

You pull the wirieing harness off the firewall on the engine side. Look at the connectors. There is a large red wire in one corner socket. You will probably see where it has been hot. Go inside under the dash and break the fuse box open. Cut and splice a wire to the corresponding red wire and solder it. Then go back to the connector and remove the metal part of the connector and cut away its wire. Replade the fuse box and run the wire out through the conector and solder the other end. Plug the harness back up and fold the extra wire back against the harness and tape. It goes back together just as the original except if has no spade connector. You cant tell that is has been done.

67wave_saver

....wombvette...Now I got it.. :smash: Thanks .... the first thing I do this weekend :cheers:

:seeya Save :seeya that :seeya wave :seeya