AZDoug

Well, after reading a few threads, i decided to do my linkage right after 32 years of, well, um, bubbatizing. (I think there was a different term for off the cuff engineering at one time).

Question 1: my plate that bolts to the clutch pedal arm, which I have installed in the short throw position; My current plate has a floating pin, and to be perfectly honest, i may have knocked out a welded pin decades ago due to wear, and replaced it with the floating pin. (This is the pin the clutch rod attaches to, the rod that goes thru the firewall).

Were the original pins welded to the plate?

Question 2: The return spring. My God. That is the biggest F@@@@@@ *** ##### spring I ever saw. Garage door springs pale in comparison. I used used a couple smaller springs in parallel inthe same location/postion to do essentially the same thng for decades, but I can tell you they have nowhere near the same spring rate , combined, as the giant spring in my package. My clutch and peddle return works fine, and has no issues, is there any reason to use this giant spring with a diaphragm pressure plate if my current relatively weak springs work OK?? (My memory has vague recollections of doing the Mongo spring once before from a long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, and it was not optimim for the pressure plate).

PS: what was the scoop on spring install, stretch it someway, insert some washers in between the coil, install, then depress clutch to let washers fall out. How was the spring stretched out of the car to insert the washers?

Thanks,
Doug

Muttley

I'll just tackle the last part of your question...

I've done my clutch only once, and not knowing any differently, I just opened up my ST-12 and used that procedure, which covers installing the over-center assist spring. It worked fine, and I didn't break a sweat (or anything else). That procedure starts on page 6R-9 under the heading "Clutch Cross Shaft".

Regarding actually needing the big stock spring with a diaphragm clutch--I know that's an issue that's been discussed. If JohnZ doesn't weigh in, I bet there's something in the archives.

62Jeff

Howdy,

Question 1 - The pin is welded in place on my 62, and I believe that to be correct.


PS (Spring Install) - Plasticman described a method that works really well for him in this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...8&postcount=10

JohnZ

The "Godzilla spring" isn't necessary, especially with a diaphragm clutch; that was a Rube Goldberg design that doubled as a return spring near the top of pedal travel, and as a "pedal assist" spring for the original 3-finger Borg & Beck clutch after it went over-center as the pedal was depressed.

I removed the one on my '57, fabbed an offset bracket that bolted to the existing two holes in the upper Z-bar arm (for the "Godzilla spring" adjusting bracket), and found a storm door spring (which I painted black) at the hardware store that attached to the original bracket on the frame and worked fine in its place simply as a return spring. Took about an hour to fab the bracket, and the spring was two bucks.

AZDoug

That is very similar to the setup I have been using for 32 years and It always worked fine for me, also. It is enough to keep the clutch fork from riding the throwout bearing and it keeps the pedal at the top.

Thanks!

Doug

Coves4me

Save yourself the grief.....I don't have the spring on either the 59 or the 62 and both have new diaphragm clutches that work fine without any return spring needed. I struggled with the same issue about 2 years ago and found that I was fretting for nothing.

Ironcross

My 62 still has all the stock style clutch components. But when replacing that damn spring, I used my electric chain fall and that even raised the car a slight amount because that spring is so strong.